he wants to use a smaller bowl, not 19mm
Oh yes gluing it to the 14 joint/stem would be much better, why didn’t I think of that haha.
Less herb yeah
Ok now I get what you mean, more hotspots doesn’t sound good… If you want to try it I wouldn’t mind though
maybe even with just enough to cover the screen of the 14mm, that would be the ideal amount. I imagine that to be a similar amount like a reduced dynavap tip, which is my daily driver atm.
Yeah you might be overthinking this whole thing. Just pack the 18mm basket screens with less herb, you’ll have fewer moving parts to deal with in your TP80 system.Ok now I get what you mean, more hotspots doesn’t sound good… If you want to try it I wouldn’t mind though
thanks for testing! It does seem more complicated than I imagined... I can't wait for my tetra to arrive, but I probably won't order the 14mm basket screen for now then.Thanks yeah I was wondering about the temp, because it's going to be further away, with extra glass, but also narrower... I don't mean hotspot per say, but scorch, I never get a hotspot really with the tetra, it's always even, but it could be a full blackening of the top or more too quick which I want to avoid
Edit: alright so the first hurdle was actually finding a reducer that fits properly, they usually have a rim around them, two out of mine did not fit because the ring would hit the wood of the tetra before it could seal with the glass on glass... With the latest TP80 there's plenty of room with the heater and screen far down enough although I was concerned about that beforehand since they also all have a bit of extra glass after the joint... Then the 14 mm basket did not fit tightly into my 14 male to male adapter, usable if kept upright carefully, which proved to be a problem after I completed my hit and the piece came apart so I lost the basket load to the floor, only got a quick shot of the extraction before dumping to inspect further!
^bottom right you can see the two that didn't fit, top right is the one that does fit, clearing the tetra wood, with the rimmed basket loaded. Bottom left is before loading, you see how deep it is with that extra glass space from the reducer, you could load further up into that reducer I suppose although I'm not sure it would be a good idea at least without it all secure together... Top left is the loaded bowl ready to hit!
You can see here^ what I mean about the rim of the reducer clearing the wood of the tetra, using it on good vibes boro hook.
So this^ bottom right is after one hit at 420F you see what I mean by a hotspot scorch, it was a good rip, felt like a full extraction of the bowl, but yeah like I said dropped it and lost it when I removed the pieces from the hook unfortunately lol
So then I filled the little basket and dumped it on the table, to try it in a regular 19 stem, it was just about exactly enough to cover the bottom of the basket screen, about a third full or less? Bottom left is it on the table, top right is it in the good vibes 19/19 to 14 WPA, then top left is after the same hit at 420F (try it another hit at 440 and it was just wispy, actual temperature was closer to 400 though, low battery now too so)
^dumped avb is a bit darker in person, you can tell it is a full, mid-temp convection extraction, dry dust. I'll have to try again, maybe higher temp, without losing the first load to compare more directly? Haha
This initial finding is that there is not enough benefit to use the smaller 14 mm basket, the extra headaches are not worth it, much easier to load less in a standard WPA
My custom P80 has just shipped, so he is getting through them.
Yes!!! My status just changed to "building"
So I got my first Tetra P80 in the mail today! Bought it off someone on Reddit for $350 w/ bendy stem and a wooden Tubo w/ glass stem. It's boxwood, and for once a tiny bit bigger than expected once I got it in my hand. Loving it so far! Only thing is is that both brand new batteries that I've tried- Molicel P28A 2800mAh 35A, and Sony Murata VTC6 3000mAh 15A went from 97% battery life to 70 something after warmup cycle/and a single puff on demand. I was wondering if anybody could recommend a better option, or let me know if I'm doing something wrong? When it comes to batteries, and mods I haven't quite figured them out completely yet lol. I haven't changed anything in the settings, and used single click for on demand @ 70W 390 degrees and the batteries drained super fast. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.. Happy to be part of the Lamart fam!
if you live in an humid environment, you may want to use beeswax often, every month maybe, because the wax actually is a water repellent.. to protect the wood against water.. but if you live in a dry area you can do it every 2 months, any beeswax for wood would work i think...
I wax mine every now and then to keep the wood protected and healthy. It looks a little better immediately after a waxing too. But Ralph mentioned that it isn’t necessarily something he does very often on his personal units, so I don’t think you need to stress about it. Also fwiw @smith.street.band aren’t those colors all dyed (embedded into the wood) rather than painted (applied on the surface)? If it’s paint I guess it might be a little different, but I think it’s dyed burl so that it lasts.
https://www.amazon.com/Seasoning-Traditional-Furniture-Cabinets-Beautify/dp/B07ZQBDG73 but i am not sure it needs another mixing with some other ingredient?
Yeah I think pure beeswax needs to be cut with mineral oil. The walrus oil recommendation I think was something I saw KG Woodcrafts say when they were more active on fc. I bet she knows her wood, I just don’t know if she’d still stand by the walrus oil
