Discontinued Supreme Vaporizer

biohacker

H.R.E.A.M
I quickly realized that the LCD readout on the SV3 was useless to me as it's close proximity to the hotplate made the entire readout black from the radiant heat.

Unfortunately, the display started to black out so I had to abandon said experiment.

Ha! Now I remember! That was it.... the temp went black! Scared the shit outta me! :lol:
 

Mr. Whitewall

Well-Known Member
Well, following my post on the SV4 thread and your reply @biohacker I have decided to pull the trigger on an Sv3! :rockon:

Was set on the double because it seemed more powerful but might go for the single after reading @Hogni 's post on the Sv4 thread...
Even though I have seen both models for about the same price and the dual comes with 2 gifts (and maybe less tax since it comes from within the EU).

Thing is, even though I find the dual a little overcomplicated, it seems to come with two 14mm/18mm adapters and a better warranty, instead of the 30-day the other shop offers...

Any thoughts/advice?

Thanks!
 

Razshiro

Well-Known Member
It's been a long time since I posted here, i have some fun with my SV3 and my new Blazer Big Buddy Turbo Torch, faster heat-up time and the temp is more stable, i just need to stop to heat 20°C before to reach the choosen temp. I've tried the "Slow motion" on my phone (Leeco Max), i don't like the result but still this thread need more Milked video shot:
 

Phenix

Well-Known Member
Can someone please tell me, or link me, how I can open up the sv3?
I have to replace the wires from the thermostat to the heat block

(They do not make proper contact at all right now)
 
Phenix,

JCat

Well-Known Member
Accessory Maker
Can someone please tell me, or link me, how I can open up the sv3?
I have to replace the wires from the thermostat to the heat block

(They do not make proper contact at all right now)
You just remove the silicone ring at the top near the block and that's all that is holding the thermocouple in place. The other thing is you need to make sure that the two wires from the thermocouple don't touch. The one wire on the one side of the thermocouple should be completely covered by the plastic insulator (including the connector) as it's imperative that the lead is 100% insulated as otherwise it will short with the other lead likely through the aluminum SV3 body (which would mess up your readings of course) ... I have a feeling your issue might be more in the area of the installation of the thermocouple and its insulation more so than the wires themselves. If after removing the thermocouple from the SV3, you should be able to also ensure the crimped on connectors are making solid contact with the wires when the wires are inserted, if not, maybe squish them down a little tighter.

For removing it, you'll probably find the silicone at this point has "bonded" to the aluminum, so you'll have to cut/scrape it off and replace it with the supplied extras. Be careful doing this as you don't want to scratch up the SV3 stem. I use a stiff plastic spatula to scrape off the stuck on silicone pieces after removing the bulk, then I boil in hot water and scrub some more. You can use some magic eraser to get the last of it, but then make sure to rinse well, then I usually boil it for about 15 minutes as a final step.

After boiling, remove, let cool a little, shake dry as well as you can, then place in oven @ 275F for 1/2 an hour or so to dry it out completely. Replace silicone, re-seat thermocouple and re-install in stand and it'll be like your SV3 is brand new again :)

Hope that helps!
 

Phenix

Well-Known Member
Thanks for all your info!
I read it a bit to lately so that’s what I am at right now:
- removed sv3 from stand
- removed thermostat (=TS)
- desoldered TS and added new wires
- I have to screw the TS module together again, will do this tomorrow

I used 2mm isolated wires. Is it safe to solder the thermostat-diode-thingy straight to the wires? Read your post but maybe did not got it, that’s why I am asking..
I would isolate each wire „path“ so that they won’t touch, is that ok?

Where shall I place the TS - at the top but not touching the unit sounds vivid to me..?


Thanks!!
 
Phenix,
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Phenix

Well-Known Member
My thermostat doesn’t turn on right now.
On the backside of the TS pcb is a Silver, round disk attached: Ishtar the battery? Where does the battery belong?
Between the silver thing and the metal stand or where?

Thanks!
 
Phenix,

Morty

Well-Known Member
SV3 Battery change:
Iiq1ysu.jpg


First squeeze the top and bottom of the thermometer to get the tabs free from the SV3 .
cJ4mrhO.jpg


The thermometer should tip forward to allow access to the battery.
y3HOqP6.jpg


Pry up this little metal tab:
wBpEuGq.jpg


If you push from the bottom the battery should slide up
L0VNMGH.jpg


It may take a little force but the battery should slide out
GIaEwr1.jpg


Now put the battery back bend the little tab to hold the battery and reattach the thermometer to the SV3.

Bonus:
If your display shows "LLLL" like below
9d72igh.jpg


you most likely have a damaged wire.
eQReHYG.jpg


:peace:

http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/supreme-vaporizer.317/page-163#post-1199705
 

vapirtoo

Well-Known Member
Hey all my Sv3 peoples,
Has it occurred to any of you that we might be owners of a soon to be collectable i.e. very rare and expensive vaporizer?
With the Dually replacing the now discontinued Sv3, we might be sitting on a gold mine!
Just a thought as I welcome the weekend with my first bowl of the day. Yea!
 

lazylathe

Almost there...
Hey all my Sv3 peoples,
Has it occurred to any of you that we might be owners of a soon to be collectable i.e. very rare and expensive vaporizer?
With the Dually replacing the now discontinued Sv3, we might be sitting on a gold mine!
Just a thought as I welcome the weekend with my first bowl of the day. Yea!

All remaining SV3's are located in Europe!
The inventor sold ALL hi stock to a supplier over there.

EIDT:
I was thinking about a way to mod my SV3 to accept a flat coil.
Thinking of cutting 3 plates of aluminum with the two narrow sides a push fit, securing the coil against the heat exchangers side.
I have some aluminum solder that i want to try, it melts at around 800F so it should be perfect!
Not sure when i will try this out as i have no workshop at the moment...
 
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Alexis

Well-Known Member
Okay guys, I have just bought the remaining 11 SV3's from Lacentrale. I do 'em at £300 each hit me up! (Shipping is extra.):D

Modnote: Alexis is now offering 70% off and free shipping with the code STU.
 
Last edited by a moderator:

JCat

Well-Known Member
Accessory Maker
All remaining SV3's are located in Europe!
The inventor sold ALL hi stock to a supplier over there.

EIDT:
I was thinking about a way to mod my SV3 to accept a flat coil.
Thinking of cutting 3 plates of aluminum with the two narrow sides a push fit, securing the coil against the heat exchangers side.
I have some aluminum solder that i want to try, it melts at around 800F so it should be perfect!
Not sure when i will try this out as i have no workshop at the moment...
Check out my mod in the link in my signature :)

Works great!
 

lazylathe

Almost there...
Check out my mod in the link in my signature :)

Works great!

I know! Great work but i like to tinker myself and i have never tried soldering aluminum, so something new!
Don't worry, whatever i come up with will not be for sale.

I have an SV4 bare bones on the way and since i bought a flat coil, I thought why not do some testing.
Quite interested to see what thinner aluminum stock does to heating times, heat retention and time to recover from a hit.
 

mucsusn

60 going on 20
Home from a lovely few days away celebrating the birth of my fourth grandchild. Wow, almost as amazing as the birth of your own children....of course my trusty Vapcaps were my most capable companions whilst traveling, but now back home, post work this AM, and time to nail my skull to the couch. Hence, I am preparing my SV3 for a session. The damn thing is a lead-pipe cinch when it's time to get serious:clap:
 

KidFated.

Unknown Member
Home from a lovely few days away celebrating the birth of my fourth grandchild. Wow, almost as amazing as the birth of your own children....of course my trusty Vapcaps were my most capable companions whilst traveling, but now back home, post work this AM, and time to nail my skull to the couch. Hence, I am preparing my SV3 for a session. The damn thing is a lead-pipe cinch when it's time to get serious:clap:
Just picked up a ton of stuff for the daughter and my soon to be born son, all I need now is the double stroller that’s capable of the trails I like to hike. Crazy expensive day but it feels good to get it taken care of.. I also picked up a new torch today, so my sv3 is ready for me once I can tag in my girls mom for baby duty. Can’t wait. Cheers!
 

JCat

Well-Known Member
Accessory Maker
I know! Great work but i like to tinker myself and i have never tried soldering aluminum, so something new!
Don't worry, whatever i come up with will not be for sale.

I have an SV4 bare bones on the way and since i bought a flat coil, I thought why not do some testing.
Quite interested to see what thinner aluminum stock does to heating times, heat retention and time to recover from a hit.
Yeah ... no worries ... that wasn't my concern ... I was just making sure you hadn't missed it! (as far as I'm concerned there's lots of room for everyone ... and if you come up with a better idea, than by all means it should get out there :) )

I'm doing this as much for the fun of it as anything else (it's going to fund my VAS some as opposed to my bank account, and fund my tinkering, but that's about it. I'd make more money @ my regular job, but this is just oh so much fun! :lol: )

Anxious to hear how it goes when you get around to it!
 

Phenix

Well-Known Member
indeed his VAS flush sale is interesting.
Is the Sublimator XLR Apollo + UFO heating elements consdierable as a contentor (which might be supreme to the Supreme ;) )?? priced at 200€ I have to admit I am tempted..

on my tinkering with the thermostat:
had some trouble during it. for some reason the wire brake right before the termo-sensor on the wire and during soldering a wire to it I likely touched it one time or so: it does not work now at all, displaying "HHHH".

where can I snag a replacement termo-sensor-thingy?
a shop in Europe had be nice..
 
Phenix,

JCat

Well-Known Member
Accessory Maker
indeed his VAS flush sale is interesting.
Is the Sublimator XLR Apollo + UFO heating elements consdierable as a contentor (which might be supreme to the Supreme ;) )?? priced at 200€ I have to admit I am tempted..

on my tinkering with the thermostat:
had some trouble during it. for some reason the wire brake right before the termo-sensor on the wire and during soldering a wire to it I likely touched it one time or so: it does not work now at all, displaying "HHHH".

where can I snag a replacement termo-sensor-thingy?
a shop in Europe had be nice..
It looks like some sort of zener diode ... but I could be wrong ... however, one can measure temperature with zener diodes, so I might be right too.

Only way to identify it would be to apply a voltage (20v) in series w/ a resistor of 2k ohm and then measure the voltage across it. There are instructions online on how to accomplish this. Maybe someone on the forums w/ an SV3 has a zener diode tester already built and handy? :lol:
 

Phenix

Well-Known Member
thanks @JCat for the input.. no idea how to measure that tough :lol:

I somehow managed to create a solder joint which wont break off directly (was not easy) and for now it works: at times it is a little wonky but hey right now it works. once the HHHH error comes up again I just wiggle the wire around til it gives the temperature again..
this is not optimal but it works so Im good to go.

messaged the supreme inventor tough: maybe he wants to share the part number..
my lookaround online for external hightemperature measurers turned out I had to spend somewhat $30 and more.. Im glad it works like this!
 
Phenix,
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