Supreme V3 Electric Conversion Kit

JCat

JCat

Well-Known Member
Accessory Maker
After seeing the amazing inventor Ed's SV4 pictures, it got me thinking again about an idea I already had for the SV3 (thanks to @biohacker and @Matt73 's ideas and posts)

So I finally decided to get started, and low and behold, 1 week later I have finished prototype #2, and I am comfortable to say that this is basically a final prototype apart from minor changes that will be made to simplify fabrication in regards to hollowing out the cavity for the coil. This is all I've been using for the past couple days :)

I am producing a limited initial run of a maximum of 8 units @ $40 USD each on a first-come-first-serve basis. After this initial run, I believe I will set the price @ $60 USD as I believe that will be quite fair for the work involved in producing them by hand. (this is assuming I get the process down on the first 8 to a point where I decide to continue producing them, which I am pretty confident I can do)

So, here are some pictures of the initial plates on their own and mounted. I am currently using a High5 e-nail and flat coil.

At a temperature of 480F it maintains a temperature of 185C (370F) pretty consistently with really good temp stability throughout the draw.

nVbDvZa.jpg


YPKKCtC.jpg



If you are interested, please send me a PM with the following details:
- Brand of enail
- Dimensions of enail coil
- outside diameter
- thickness of coil
- thickness of coil handle part (the coiled part of my heater coil is flattened so is 3mm vs 3.5mm of the "handle)

I will also be posting the dimensions of the default coil "cavity" so you can verify in advance if that will fit or if something custom will be required.

If you want more details, then check the Supreme thread where I've made some posts with the initial prototype as well as this one (no videos of the 2nd prototype yet though :) )
 
JCat

JCat

Well-Known Member
Accessory Maker
Quick update for everyone ... the coil I am recommending is the High 5 flat coil. This is what I am using so it guarantees a good fit and doesn't require any customization. For those of you that have alternate controllers, there is an adapter available from High5 so their coils will work with standard controllers such as d-nail etc.

Coil: https://highfivevape.com/flat-coil-h5.html
Adapter: https://highfivevape.com/universal-coil-adapter.html

For those that have different coils they want to use, if they have an outside diameter of <1.125" then not a problem and they should just "fit" (assuming the thickness is the same). If they are larger, I am considering making 2 sizes. 1 slightly taller to accommodate larger coils and the standard 1.25" tall one.
 
szai

szai

Well-Known Member
JCat said:
Quick update for everyone ... the coil I am recommending is the High 5 flat coil. This is what I am using so it guarantees a good fit and doesn't require any customization. For those of you that have alternate controllers, there is an adapter available from High5 so their coils will work with standard controllers such as d-nail etc.

Coil: https://highfivevape.com/flat-coil-h5.html
Adapter: https://highfivevape.com/universal-coil-adapter.html

For those that have different coils they want to use, if they have an outside diameter of <1.125" then not a problem and they should just "fit" (assuming the thickness is the same). If they are larger, I am considering making 2 sizes. 1 slightly taller to accommodate larger coils and the standard 1.25" tall one.
Click to expand...


The adapter is out of stock and you might want to confirm if it's still going to be carried? I dunno just excited and want this to go smooth!
 
JCat

JCat

Well-Known Member
Accessory Maker
szai said:
The adapter is out of stock and you might want to confirm if it's still going to be carried? I dunno just excited and want this to go smooth!
Click to expand...
I was able to add it to my cart earlier tonight, so I'm presuming they are going to have more in stock (since it seems they just ran out). I could also manufacture my own adapter cable, but would rather not as @ $20 they are a steal! (on amazon.ca I can't even find just ends for that price! :lol:)

Here's a pic for everyone with the planned dimensions for the enail coil cavity on the one plate:

PLyL4SM.png

And for those of you that are interested here are my actual plans:

d03oMqE.png
 
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JCat

JCat

Well-Known Member
Accessory Maker
One more note everyone, after a little research, I did find an Ontario based supplier for XLR connectors and cable, so if High5 doesn't get any more universal adapter cables in any time soon, or if you are from Canada or elsewhere apart from the USA then I can build one for $25 USD and add to the package. If I get enough requests at the same time to build more than one, than I can probably do $20 USD, however, if I have to order parts to build singles, after shipping/tax/exchange, that just covers my cost.

I could also, similarly, supply High5 coils with the adapters, however, depending on how many people want them, especially at this pre-order phase, that would affect the cost (I would not be looking to make money here, but my cost to order a single after tax/shipping/exchange is ~$60 USD --and you can get them from the High5 site for $39 USD)

Edit: I am also considering these coils as an option and am waiting to here back on the wiring
 
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just_the_flu

just_the_flu

they say im crazy but i have a good time
JCat said:
Quick update for everyone ... the coil I am recommending is the High 5 flat coil. This is what I am using so it guarantees a good fit and doesn't require any customization. For those of you that have alternate controllers, there is an adapter available from High5 so their coils will work with standard controllers such as d-nail etc.
Click to expand...


...thats odd, i thought high5 used standard XLR connection...


The coiled heater is wired for 120 watts and is 6ft long. The coil uses a 5PIN Female XLR connector.

...^^ came from their website...

(i don't know the difference as I'm just stepping up my enail game)
 
just_the_flu,
JCat

JCat

Well-Known Member
Accessory Maker
just_the_flu said:
...thats odd, i thought high5 used standard XLR connection...


The coiled heater is wired for 120 watts and is 6ft long. The coil uses a 5PIN Female XLR connector.

...^^ came from their website...

(i don't know the difference as I'm just stepping up my enail game)
Click to expand...
The issue isn't with the connector, it's that if you plug a high5 coil into say a d-nail controller, it will likely fry it as the pins aren't mapped the same (although you can physically plug it in! :doh: )

The High5 connector is wired as:
1 - K-type thermocouple negative
2 - K-Type thermocouple positive
3 - Ground
4 - AC Neutral
5 - AC Load

Standard controllers such as d-nail and hex-nail use the following:
1 - AC Load
2 - AC Neutral
3 - K-type thermocouple positive
4 - K-type thermocouple negative
5 - Ground

So as you can see ... one would not want to plug the wrong coil into the wrong controller!

Anyways, just another note, I am working with someone else, to try to get a good source on enail coils from a reputable manufacturer without the connector pre-installed, and then I can custom wire dependent on the controller (this is still in the works and is just a "maybe" right now). I will only provide any type of warranty on the coils for those that are being utilized in specific approved controllers that have published specs on their pin-out configurations. (such as hex-nail and d-nail and high5) I may add to the approved list, and can do so if one sends me their controller to open and verify and test.
 
JCat

JCat

Well-Known Member
Accessory Maker
Here's a small update ... I think my aluminum will be here on Tuesday. In the meantime, I've been hard at work refining my design, prototyping, and building jigs. I'm now all setup on my router table to route out the cavity ... here's a picture of a 1/4" plywood piece I used to practice on (threaded holes and cavity routed), and my template and jig to mount the block to keep my hands out of the way and safe while still having full control. There's also a piece of 0.3mm aluminum (I think 1100, so should be good, but just waiting to find out 100% for certain from manufacturer) at the bottom of the test piece. I think I can include a few of these with each as shims ... that way I can make it a little deeper to accommodate different coils, but still make it tight and efficient (we'll see on my next prototype). I also made the blocks 1/16" taller. This will allow a little more room for the coil. I cut myself a couple blanks (this is a pain because I only have 1.25" thick aluminum ... so I had to cut it down to 1.3125" and then slice the two faces off at 1/4" thick (this will be much easier with 1/4" aluminum plate!)

Next step will be to use all of my setup jigs to see how long from blanks it takes me to make a single pair of plates.

LdiGDgh.jpg


0zGUVPP.jpg


Edit: The aluminum sheet is 1050 ... from all my research this should be 100% fine (basically any aluminum would be from the sounds of it)
 
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JCat

JCat

Well-Known Member
Accessory Maker
So prototype #3, although not really pretty (as I messed up a couple things), I learned a lot, and functionally it works as well as prototype #2!

So here's what I messed up:
- put the bolts too close together and couldn't fit Supreme V3 between them! Whoops! Guess I should have checked that from my setup block before I build my plate holder for the router table etc. :lol:
- Had my router bit too deep on first pass, made it difficult to control. Table mounted jig needed to have higher sides on 2 sides to follow block and not aluminum (as my plates weren't perfect :) ...)
- At first had jig setup maybe 1/32" too far one way, and went through the side (for the bottom below the coil)

So here's what I did to resolve issues:
- Had to drill 2 holes beside the 1 on the one side to be able to mount it.
- Didn't worry about the 1 side (bottom) being open a little

So here's what I learned:
- The spacer plates I used work very well just like having actual contact. Much better then the previous set-screw and washer I tried
- The bottom is open, and since the plates are 1/16" taller, and the cavity is too big, the top is basically open too; this does not affect the temperature. The top was already basically open as it's impossible to fit he whole coil encased in the plate and hidden completely. So ... it maybe makes more sense if its built with the top and bottom just open. Might make mounting a little bit more tricky (wouldn't want to do it hot), but will make construction easier and make the whole thing lighter as I can build it 1-1/8" tall as opposed to 1-5/16" that it currently is. That 3/16" reflects a >14% reduction in mass.

So here's a picture of the prototype 3 plates mounted, and a picture of the new plans:

The last diagram in the plans is the dimensions of the cut-out for the coil (open @ top and bottom), and can be used for fitting your coil. If your coil is not going to fit, then let me know when ordering.

iBhHFHQ.jpg


XblqOow.png
 
Gray Area

Gray Area

Well-Known Member
Andreaerdna said:
Nice idea @JCat

If you add a layer of mica or other insulator between SV3 and 2nd aluminium plate ( the one without coil) you should reduce heat gradient and power consumption (as this plate is acting as an heat sink)
Click to expand...

This is a good point... even cutting the blank plate in an "I" shape to house the two screws top and bottom, and just the bar connecting them (not the full plate), should reduce the mass of the second plate quite a bit if you didn't want to use an insulator.

Can't really use desktops atm, which is where my sv3 shines, but I'll be grabbing one of these mods for when that changes. Fantastic work :tup:
 
JCat

JCat

Well-Known Member
Accessory Maker
Gray Area said:
This is a good point... even cutting the blank plate in an "I" shape to house the two screws top and bottom, and just the bar connecting them (not the full plate), should reduce the mass of the second plate quite a bit if you didn't want to use an insulator.

Can't really use desktops atm, which is where my sv3 shines, but I'll be grabbing one of these mods for when that changes. Fantastic work :tup:
Click to expand...
Thanks! The plates are the same size for balance reasons ... the blank one’s actually a little heavier since it’s not hollowed our for the coil, but the other side also has the coil :)
 
szai

szai

Well-Known Member
Have you given thought about making a heat shield or some sort of insulated cozy? Could be useful if the sv3 with the right enail would work with an inverter.
 
szai,
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biohacker

biohacker

H.R.E.A.M
So stoked for this! @JCat how has your flower experience been with the SV3 e-mod? The SV4 instructions say to wait 10-40sec after inserting stem before pulling to heat soak. Have you been ripping right from the get go for the full convection effects? Must be such a different experience with a static temp! Can't wait!
 
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