lugaschfuckcombustion
Active Member
to get this out of the way:
i would love a vote on the light color steps. that red flashing follows solid red would confuse me for sure.
having the temperature adjustable below 120 °C would be fantastic as well.
i would not care about the low wattage.
high wattage is unnecessary at these low temperatures and adjustability with low wattage is better than no adjustability.
ok, now down to business:
i understand that 20% steps are bad for most use cases. it was just an example for the percentile-based system.
if precision is more important the closer you get to the aim temperature as you said (which i agree with), then what do you think of partitions like this:
blue <50%, green 50-70%, yellow 70-85%, orange 85-95%, purple 95-<100%; 5x flashing red 100%
these values are not set in stone, neither are the colors.
for instance there is an argument to be made that a light shutoff grabs more attention than flashing red and so it should signal 100%. in this case purple should be replaced with red, in my opinion.
note that the above steps roughly resemble your absolute values provided the max temperature of 240 °C is selected.
why not scale these down via a relative system to get more precision with lower temperatures?
only in the critical zone of 120-190 °C with your absolute system:
you get yellow from 120-160 °C, orange from 160-180 °C and red from 180-190 °C with 3x flashing green at aim temperature.
4 colors.
only in the critical zone with the relative system set to the values above:
if aim temperature is 190 °C (the max value in the critical zone, so the following steps are least precise), we get green from 120-133 °C, yellow from 133-161,5 °C, orange from 161,5-180,5 °C, purple from 180,5-<190 °C and 5x flashing red at 190 °C.
to me, this is an appropriate color-temperature curve. of course you get all 5 colors.
in fact the biggest benefit of a relative system is that you always get all 5 colors and thereby full precision, no matter the aim temperature.
the absolute system on the other hand gives less colors and therewith less information, the lower the set temperature goes.
now of course, you can not calculate any of these percentages while blasted.
however, i also seriously doubt that you can remember the absolute temperature values while stoned out of your mind and talking to friends.
moreover, with the quite broad absolute increments i do not think you can reliably gauge your specific wanted temperature just by light colors, if you do happen to remember the absolute values.
well, there is no need. it is easier to just look at the screen.
even if you guess your wanted temperature correctly with aid of the lights and absolute values, it is not worth the effort.
to get a different temperature, simply adjust it.
this will have to be easily possible while being high as fuck anyways, for example if you have different strains on you or if you go for harder hits with subsequent bowls or vape some light mint on low temperature after 3 bowls of broccoli.
provided all this, the lights' most important function is to show how much and fast heating has progressed, so you know roughly how long to wait until the load is ready.
the current temperature displayed on the screen does not tell you how fast temperature is changing.
you can only estimate this by watching the screen for quite a long time.
thus, the information how fast heating will be finished which the lights deliver is unobtainable by other reasonable means.
however, as a progress-o-meter the relative system is substantially more accurate, especially for low temperatures.
i would love a vote on the light color steps. that red flashing follows solid red would confuse me for sure.
having the temperature adjustable below 120 °C would be fantastic as well.
i would not care about the low wattage.
high wattage is unnecessary at these low temperatures and adjustability with low wattage is better than no adjustability.
ok, now down to business:
i understand that 20% steps are bad for most use cases. it was just an example for the percentile-based system.
if precision is more important the closer you get to the aim temperature as you said (which i agree with), then what do you think of partitions like this:
blue <50%, green 50-70%, yellow 70-85%, orange 85-95%, purple 95-<100%; 5x flashing red 100%
these values are not set in stone, neither are the colors.
for instance there is an argument to be made that a light shutoff grabs more attention than flashing red and so it should signal 100%. in this case purple should be replaced with red, in my opinion.
note that the above steps roughly resemble your absolute values provided the max temperature of 240 °C is selected.
why not scale these down via a relative system to get more precision with lower temperatures?
only in the critical zone of 120-190 °C with your absolute system:
you get yellow from 120-160 °C, orange from 160-180 °C and red from 180-190 °C with 3x flashing green at aim temperature.
4 colors.
only in the critical zone with the relative system set to the values above:
if aim temperature is 190 °C (the max value in the critical zone, so the following steps are least precise), we get green from 120-133 °C, yellow from 133-161,5 °C, orange from 161,5-180,5 °C, purple from 180,5-<190 °C and 5x flashing red at 190 °C.
to me, this is an appropriate color-temperature curve. of course you get all 5 colors.
in fact the biggest benefit of a relative system is that you always get all 5 colors and thereby full precision, no matter the aim temperature.
the absolute system on the other hand gives less colors and therewith less information, the lower the set temperature goes.
now of course, you can not calculate any of these percentages while blasted.
however, i also seriously doubt that you can remember the absolute temperature values while stoned out of your mind and talking to friends.
moreover, with the quite broad absolute increments i do not think you can reliably gauge your specific wanted temperature just by light colors, if you do happen to remember the absolute values.
well, there is no need. it is easier to just look at the screen.
even if you guess your wanted temperature correctly with aid of the lights and absolute values, it is not worth the effort.
to get a different temperature, simply adjust it.
this will have to be easily possible while being high as fuck anyways, for example if you have different strains on you or if you go for harder hits with subsequent bowls or vape some light mint on low temperature after 3 bowls of broccoli.
provided all this, the lights' most important function is to show how much and fast heating has progressed, so you know roughly how long to wait until the load is ready.
the current temperature displayed on the screen does not tell you how fast temperature is changing.
you can only estimate this by watching the screen for quite a long time.
thus, the information how fast heating will be finished which the lights deliver is unobtainable by other reasonable means.
however, as a progress-o-meter the relative system is substantially more accurate, especially for low temperatures.
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