school me on making bubble

tepictoton

Well-Known Member
I am sure 316twholesale can help you out with those screens.

Dry ice, what are the ideas about that, or does that take us away too much from original thread? Maybe it might be a good idea to splitt up this thread. Seems like now information is getting mixed about extraction with icewater, dry ice and dry sieving.

So I guess to help people find the correct info faster and easier maybe we should get different threads going for different techniques? They do belong to one bigger category putting them all together, which is solventless (not considering water a solvent here, just a carrier) extractions.
 

Hashtag46&2

Trichome Technician
@Hashtag46&2

What about using dry ice with fresh frozen material? What are your thoughts on dry ice extraction in general?

I've never tried using FF with DI, but I'd imagine it would be fairly ineffective due to the rigidity of FF Trichomes.

I personally don't like the Dry Ice Method, it is ultimately too aggressive / unforgiving , and produces lots of contaminants .

In fact it is so cold that once the DI makes contact with a Trichome, the gland will Shatter, breaking it into pieces.
Inevitably, it also causes the material to essentially turn into dust sized particles that are the same size of the Trichomes.

Also, SWIM has maybe 50lbs. of trim sitting around. In your opinion, what would be the simplest/cheapest way to process this quantity in one run?

I'm afraid that there is no effective way of securing a solid product in regards to yield and quality running 50lbs in one run.

I believe they are making 50 gallon bubble bags now, in which you could probably run 10 lbs at a time. (Probably More)
I recommend checking out Highly Educated websites, and check out their newest Hash making equipment.

Currently thinking: (We have a lot of spare food grade 55 gallon plastic barrels, was considering getting a 70 and 150 micron screen that would fit over the top nice and snug. I was going to layer dry ice and shake in the barrel, and then we also coincidentally have a produce spinner that spins 55 gallon barrels, which I was going to use for the mechanical separation and then just have a couple guys bang the barrel over some large surface area.)

Anyone know a good recommendation for larger diameter screen material/sourcing?
^^This should be your best bet, then if you'd like to refine the product further for a personal head stash, you could take the dry sift and run it back through the bubble bags and utilize water to filter out the contaminant .

Here is a link to the mesh source.
https://utahbiodieselsupply.com/stainlessmesh.php

Hopefully this helps, please feel free to ask more questions brother.
 

seaofgreens

My Mind Is Free
I was researching around a bit more on rollitup and grasscity, went with a yard of 125 micron nylon mesh. Most happy medium I figured. Should be able to stretch it nice and tight around a 55 gallon barrel. Not too worried about agitating too much, as it was recommended that you just let the dry ice sit on the product for a few minutes, stir by hand with a wooden pole or something, for a touch, then let the hand shaking over a clean surface do most of the breaking up, so that you get more trichomes falling through before the dry ice starts to break down the shake to where it falls through screen. I guess you just shake until you start to see a green hue then stop that batch.

Got outdoor coming in next week, and indoor close behind, so this project might get sidelined till around Halloween. Pics will certainly follow whenever it happens :p
 

mayanhippy

Permaculture regenerative LivingSoil
is it possible to dry sift top self nugs buds and after run the leftover shake in bubble bags and get more resin 2 make rosin?
 
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Hashtag46&2

Trichome Technician
is it possible to dry sift top self nugs buds and after run the leftover shake in bubble bags and get more resin 2 make rosin?
Very subjective question but in general, yes this is possible.

The starting Top Shelf Flowers should be dried extensively, but not too dry. They should also have rather copious amounts of resin, inside and out, or this will be a lot of work for a little reward.

Your dry sift tech will have to be very very quick, only 10 seconds of sifting action.
(Follow 10 second double stacked screen tech in this thread somewhere)

If you want to do this, aim for a 1-3% return on the dry sift .. Which should be 99.99% glandular heads.. The ultimate head stash.

As long as you go very very gentle with the initial dry sifting, running the remaining material through Bubble bags will get your remaining yield.
 

herbivore21

Well-Known Member
Thought I'd report back here to say that I did my first and second attempts at dry ice sifting and got the most WONDERFUL smelling/tasting extract I've ever made from my cluster bomb flowers last night. 21g of top colas yielded me 5g of variously 3-5 star sift. Pinkish white in color, with smells and tastes that just never existed in any of the bubble, rosin or solvent extracts I've made before. Spent a total of 50 mins from start to finish of sifting/preparation etc. probably only like 15 mins of actual sifting. I sifted SOOOOOOOOOOO gently. First attempt was with a bunch of shake and I obliterated the material too quick with the dry ice by shaking too hard, results were pretty useless.

I am loving my experiments with solventless teks lately, I've been stupid busy with my employment lately and haven't had enough chance to make medicine. It is so nice to be able to take some time to make something next level now :D

I want to echo @Hashtag46&2 on the fact that dry ice hash is seriously unforgiving. You can quickly turn something fantastic into complete garbage if you are not very careful. In fact, I would not dry ice sift if I were particularly medicated already for this reason!
 
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herbivore21

Well-Known Member
gIfG0Lf.jpg


Dry Ice Sift rosin :D

This stuff is amazing tasting, less creamy than bubble from the same material, less planty than flower rosin from the same material. I do think however that I prefer the creamy bubble on this particular material on the whole.
 

herbivore21

Well-Known Member
Ok, so just ran a good size bubble run, got back a solid 20% return from flowers (broke them up properly this time!) and did 4 washes (6 mins, 9 mins, 12 mins and 20 mins in the bubblenow respectively) with GARGANTUAN amounts of ice cubes on all but the first wash (it is super hot here, the ice was melting before I had ever turned the machine on!).

The first wash was amazing, the whitest heads I've ever collected. No green, not even in the 220u bag. However, the yield was negligible. about 1g from all 8 bags cumulatively! I quickly realized the ice cubes had melted too quickly and the flowers were not being agitated enough.

So of course, a rewash was done with truckloads of ice (17 pounds or so which still melted pretty quickly)! Again, the 220u contaminant bag was red-brown (from pistils which had no doubt gotten through the work bag in the bubblenow) again, not green. I have never had this color of contaminant bag hash before! It was a sign of things to come. The rest of the bags in this wash produced weight. Heads were just as white as the first wash, almost like the first wash had never happened!

So I immediately froze up the work bag again with ice cubes and flowers inside, then went for wash number 3. The yield from this was similarly big. The smell from all of these hashes was filling my nostrils now and this is clearly the fruitiest, creamiest smelling product i've ever made. Still every bag looks like a money bag, with even the 25u bag giving me fully white heads in the second and third washes!

A 4th wash brought a little green through, still, negligible amounts of plant material, still mostly brown 220u bag, 73 looked just as good as every 73 pull up until then - incredible.

Pics will come later, but truly, I feel like bubble has passed the trial of fire now with flying colors. I made the best bubble I've ever had by a long shot.

Haven't dried it out yet so haven't dabbed to see if I got full melt, but I'd be surprised if I didn't get some 6 star in the first few 73 bags!

Can't wait to dry, and dab and or squish this stuff!

Bubble is incredible and with rosin, there is just no excuse not to make hashes over solvent extracts! Safer tek for the uninitiated, incredible results.

Welcome to dab valley:

XbkGQMc.jpg
 
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herbivore21

Well-Known Member
Full melt bubble is sticky as hell!

I can't press it out to dab on any teflon/parchment/slick sheet without it sticking firm lol

Just stuck a piece of teflon with a good chunk of bubble pressed out stuck to it and impossible to remove with a dabber lol
 

MGG

Well-Known Member
Why not leave it in a plastic tub in the freezer?

Wont pressing pop open those carefully preserved heads?

How are these heads 'carefully preserved' when they are being flung and smashed around in the equivalent of a washing mashine with hard chunks of ice?
 
MGG,

Farid

Well-Known Member
Because the trichs are not melted from solvent or extracted from ground material (grinding crushes the heads). They are just washed off with cold water, from broken up buds, meaning the heads survive the extraction process.

Pressing right before dabbing doesn't change the flavor much, as the heads are freshly crushed. It's pressing to store that some bubble makers say changes flavor. The times I've made bubble it's been small enough amounts that I haven't noticed much difference pressing. But that bubble only lasted me a couple weeks.
 

jojo monkey

Well-Known Member
Manufacturer
@MGG Yeah, what Farid said. The agitation is to get the resin head off the stalk. The heads are frozen little balls that gravity brings through the tiny holes in the bags. It's a tiny sorting process where the tiniest heads fall to the bottom bag. Small heads might be late or immature and taste like shit. The middle bags might have perfectly ripe heads that pile up to a blonde hash that melts and melts. You can vape a plant by the size of the resin head with bubble. Resin farming!

Bubble bags are typically used on trim. Being able to recover something enjoyable from leafy trim is a blessing.

I like bubble left in the freezer- It looks and moves like brown sugar more than hard candy.
 

herbivore21

Well-Known Member
Yup, I what these guys said more or less. Good to see some more contributors too :D

I just finally started drying out my 4th wash from that hugely successful flower run I have done and at least 4 of those bags are full melt. I did something right!

Holy fuck I am in full melt heaven!
 

cptchronic

Well-Known Member
What would cause bubble hash to change consistency over time? I'm aware of curing and whatnot but have no direct experience. I've only had this hash for a short period of time. So I'm not sure what would cause it to change so quickly other than maybe not being fully dry yet?

I've got 2 kinds of full melt, 1 was already in almost sort of a flakey state. The other started off looking like literal bubbles stuck together but over time it has started to get flakey like my other kind. It's not changed in flavor or vape-ability only consistency and maybe has gotten a tad more pungent.

Any thoughts on the consistency shift?
 

Matt73

Well-Known Member
Thanks everybody for the great information here!

For my first ever bubble hash I have used this bags:
http://www.aliexpress.com/store/pro...-BAGS-FILTER-HASH-BAG/1310032_2051267281.html
Plus a 45 micron bag.

Because it is so hot here I bought a big ice cube bucket for the work.
Example: http://www.greenleaf.co.id/images/product/5825-NOVELA.png
The bucket costs 10 dollar. It is a bit thick, so the bags are not easy to pull on top, but it isolates so good, the ice doesn't want to melt at all :-)

Yesterday I was ready. The first wash I did with all bags: 160, 110, 73, 45, 25
In the 160 was next to nothing and in the 45 was only very little yield, so for the 2nd wash I went with less bags:. 110, 73, 25
3rd wash I got lazy and only used the 25 bag (for the Solo).
Every spin I did for 15 minutes, followed by a 5 minutes setting.
Before the first wash I let rest the dry flowers in the ice for about 10 minutes in order to re-hydrate them. The problem was that there was too much ice and not enough water, also because of the special bucket the ice didn't want to melt. So in the beginning I stirred the flowers mostly dry which wasn't so good.
Next time I would do the first wash for less then 10 minutes I think.
I was surprised how easy the 25 micron bag could be drained.

I tried to mince the hash, but it is so sticky. Also I am worried about mold, as it is so hot and humid here. Somewhere else I have read that you can dry it in the fridge. So I leave the stuff in the fridge for now.
 

Matt73

Well-Known Member
So the loose hash is nearly dry now. I have tried some in the Solo, it hits hard but lacks of taste. No full melt.
In the book "hashish - the joy of making and curing" they write that after drying and before pressing you should cure the resin in a mason jar. The flowers I used have been cured already 2 months, so is it still necessary to cure the resin more? Will it make a big difference?
I am panning to do 2 different batches of hash:
#1 will be from the first and second run 25 to 73 micron.
#2 will be everything from the third run + the 110 from the first two runs.
Thanks for any feedback.
 
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killick

But I like it!
Hey all. I realise this is a quiet thread now, but I've been reading through it often for info.

So a few weeks ago a buddy introduces me to a grower. His sister lives local and was recently diagnosed with a form of spinal arthritis. So buddy is giving me his trim, I make meds for his sister, and get to keep the rest, give it away, or whatever, just don't sell it. So I'm playing!

Picked up a Panda washing machine, some bags (thanks Wacky Willies :), some containers, RO water and ice. It's fall here, and getting near freezing at night, so left the machine full outside, and the next morning was all ice, trim, chilled water and bags. And lawn chairs, as a buddy dropped by from the coast, so we spent the day practicing and hanging out in the yard.

So, from 2 lbs of trim, split into two loads. Each load was run twice: a first 5 minute wash, followed by a 10 min wash. In the end we got 47 grams of hash.

Next time
- press wet hash to remove more water
- freeze in pucks to facilitate planing
- maybe try one of those high speed cheese graters?
- cardboard covered in parchment will make it easier to handle when frozen
- filled the work bag with herb and ice. Should there be a lot of ice outside the bag in the water as well?

One thing I did notice was that some of the bags, I'm presuming the full melt bags, that the wet hash comes out almost like foam. It's very light and fluffy compared to the plant material in the other bags. This was 90, 73 and 45 micron for the most part...

Anyways, its been a great experiment. Next up is hash resin.

Is there anything glaring I could add or revive from the process?
 

herbivore21

Well-Known Member
What would cause bubble hash to change consistency over time? I'm aware of curing and whatnot but have no direct experience. I've only had this hash for a short period of time. So I'm not sure what would cause it to change so quickly other than maybe not being fully dry yet?

I've got 2 kinds of full melt, 1 was already in almost sort of a flakey state. The other started off looking like literal bubbles stuck together but over time it has started to get flakey like my other kind. It's not changed in flavor or vape-ability only consistency and maybe has gotten a tad more pungent.

Any thoughts on the consistency shift?
Nucleation is a big possibility! If your hash is a little wet still and get subject to a little heat (like a hot day), it'll wax/budder up. The flakiness is likely from your bubble drying out too much ;) Store with humidity packs and see if that prevents it next time (DO NOT INTRODUCE HUMIDITY PACKS UNTIL THE HASH IS PROPERLY DRIED!). When hash dries out and gets crumbly/flakey it can still be incredible! I have some that has cured 4 months now and the stuff melts like water and tastes incredible!

Thanks everybody for the great information here!

For my first ever bubble hash I have used this bags:
http://www.aliexpress.com/store/pro...-BAGS-FILTER-HASH-BAG/1310032_2051267281.html
Plus a 45 micron bag.

Because it is so hot here I bought a big ice cube bucket for the work.
Example: http://www.greenleaf.co.id/images/product/5825-NOVELA.png
The bucket costs 10 dollar. It is a bit thick, so the bags are not easy to pull on top, but it isolates so good, the ice doesn't want to melt at all :-)

Yesterday I was ready. The first wash I did with all bags: 160, 110, 73, 45, 25
In the 160 was next to nothing and in the 45 was only very little yield, so for the 2nd wash I went with less bags:. 110, 73, 25
3rd wash I got lazy and only used the 25 bag (for the Solo).
Every spin I did for 15 minutes, followed by a 5 minutes setting.
Before the first wash I let rest the dry flowers in the ice for about 10 minutes in order to re-hydrate them. The problem was that there was too much ice and not enough water, also because of the special bucket the ice didn't want to melt. So in the beginning I stirred the flowers mostly dry which wasn't so good.
Next time I would do the first wash for less then 10 minutes I think.
I was surprised how easy the 25 micron bag could be drained.

I tried to mince the hash, but it is so sticky. Also I am worried about mold, as it is so hot and humid here. Somewhere else I have read that you can dry it in the fridge. So I leave the stuff in the fridge for now.
Freezer can dry your hash to a certain extent. However, it still needs to be dried after this. A fridge will slowly pull moisture out but mold can thrive in a fridge (not so much a freezer) and I would not try this one!

The 25 bag can be easy to drain if you have a small collection only.
So the loose hash is nearly dry now. I have tried some in the Solo, it hits hard but lacks of taste. No full melt.
In the book "hashish - the joy of making and curing" they write that after drying and before pressing you should cure the resin in a mason jar. The flowers I used have been cured already 2 months, so is it still necessary to cure the resin more? Will it make a big difference?
I am panning to do 2 different batches of hash:
#1 will be from the first and second run 25 to 73 micron.
#2 will be everything from the third run + the 110 from the first two runs.
Thanks for any feedback.
It may still benefit your hash to cure it another month or so, but if the resin has already cured 2 months then you're off to a good start! Remember that some small components of plant contaminant can get into your bubble and curing the resin can facilitate microbial degradation of these unwanted components.

Hey all. I realise this is a quiet thread now, but I've been reading through it often for info.

So a few weeks ago a buddy introduces me to a grower. His sister lives local and was recently diagnosed with a form of spinal arthritis. So buddy is giving me his trim, I make meds for his sister, and get to keep the rest, give it away, or whatever, just don't sell it. So I'm playing!

Picked up a Panda washing machine, some bags (thanks Wacky Willies :), some containers, RO water and ice. It's fall here, and getting near freezing at night, so left the machine full outside, and the next morning was all ice, trim, chilled water and bags. And lawn chairs, as a buddy dropped by from the coast, so we spent the day practicing and hanging out in the yard.

So, from 2 lbs of trim, split into two loads. Each load was run twice: a first 5 minute wash, followed by a 10 min wash. In the end we got 47 grams of hash.

Next time
- press wet hash to remove more water
- freeze in pucks to facilitate planing
- maybe try one of those high speed cheese graters?
- cardboard covered in parchment will make it easier to handle when frozen
- filled the work bag with herb and ice. Should there be a lot of ice outside the bag in the water as well?

One thing I did notice was that some of the bags, I'm presuming the full melt bags, that the wet hash comes out almost like foam. It's very light and fluffy compared to the plant material in the other bags. This was 90, 73 and 45 micron for the most part...

Anyways, its been a great experiment. Next up is hash resin.

Is there anything glaring I could add or revive from the process?
Greetings my friend! I am so glad to see you getting the opportunity to run bubble! A few points.

1. The quality of your trim is the quality of the flavor of your hash. If you let it get old and dried out and nasty, it'll taste like rotting garbage. If you let it get far too old, it'll taste like old dried out grass clippings. Keeping trim in with humidity packs is a must if you're not running it right away.

2. Fuck man, don't use parchment for really sticky hashes that aren't completely dry! Parchment can and will easily delaminate on very sticky hash with some water content yet to be dried out. This is going to turn your solventless hash into unsalvagable poison! Dry on an inert surface. There's no sense in making clean solventless hash and then exposing it to surfaces that are not inert and may influence the hash. Cardboard is also a no-go IMO. I noticed back when I dried on cardboard that the hash would taste of cardboard.

3. Definitely press wet hash pucks to get that water out after collecting. It will help a bunch.

4. Do not microplane resin. It is just not necessary. I make the stickiest, most marbled up full melt going, sticky enough that even when fully dry, it still should not be placed on parchment! The problem with microplaning is that you rupture the resin glands and expose the contents to the elements in a way that they will boil out with your water to some extent. Those gland membranes really protect the resin from oxidative degradation when they are not ruptured.

5. I know other hashmakers like work bags and can still get full melt with a work bag (in fact, my avatar was made in this way), but I recommend abandoning the work bag altogether. I get much better results without.

Brother the foam is what you wanna see - a promising sign indeed for this recent wash! I see it in every collection I do from every bag in every wash (and I do many more washes than you do!) except for the contaminant catch bag (varies depending on the variety I'm washing. Different varieties at different stages of development when harvested yield different sized resin glands.

Hopefully this helps my friend! Hope you are most well!
 

killick

But I like it!
@herbivore21 thanks for the advice! I assumed parchment would be ok based on the resin threads.

I got microplaning, and sieving, from bubbleman vids. Froze runs on cardboard, planed onto parchment, and everything seemed to come out dry. A bit harsh, but it's pretty new.

What would you suggest in place of parchment and planing? Sieving was a huge mess. I do have a 160 and 60 micron dry sift screens I was considering running through, possibly using a sander for agitation... I was also considering more porous matter, maybe a larger pressing cloth, just to give a little space for airflow between the drying surface and the bubble.

One of the great things about bubble (assumption anyways) is that, from here, you should be able to process it any way you like. Take the less melty runs and toss in budder with no filtering required. The melty grades should make great resin.

It's a great time to be alive ;)

Ps - doing well here, thank you. It's fall, the apples are ready for picking, and the cool temps makes processing things easier. I trust all is going ok in your corner of the planet?
 

killick

But I like it!
So more digging suggests drying on glass, and chop finely to allow drying. I'm guessing adding very light airflow would probably help as well. This is different from the frozen patties on bubbleman vids, but still give it a shot and see what happens...
 
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