Sapphire and Ruby inserts for bangers

LesPlenty

Well-Known Member
Company Rep
Got my toes wet with my first ruby insert, showed up today, no visual blemishes, all smooth and shiny,
img_20191014_125438-jpg.13740

In my @710Coils banger with his axial heater.
US$40 and the DHGate seller threw in the ruby terp balls after I asked about his items being seconds as they are so cheap. He assured me they were 'High Quality' hehe.
Ruby Insert Specs;
Height, 15.95mm
Diameter, 19.07mm
Wall thickness, 2.08mm
Bottom thickness, 2.45mm
Weight, 8.65grams or 43.2ct
Seems to dry swab clean just fine, Auber is only set at 500f, need to check dish temps and experiment more.:science:
 

Azn2101

Well-Known Member
So I'm not sure where to put this since I've seen people ask about the AiN here. Hope this is cool with everyone.

That being said the AiN will bug the shit out of anyone who likes to keep their stuff clean. And I'm not talking the type of "clean" that needs to be spotless And OCD. The slightly grainy texture of the AiN (25mm anyway) makes qtipping basically there to remove the leftovers above the surface but it stains the insert immediately to the point that the almost greyish white surface looks kunda fugly black from the outside looking through the slightly translucent material after every dab.

It also seems like the textured surface made the diamond polisher skip small patches so that you'll have an area where the surface feels consistant then you move the Qtip over a certain spot and it'll start to grab the loose fibers if twisting while turning (Puffco Peak method) and not hot enough. It also has small lines and one big line that go in a circular trajectory that go slightly below the surface but not enough to feel unless you line your finger nail up with the curve and search for it but all in all it is even above the surface.

I got this second hand and I know why guy wanted to get rid of it.

Unless you use an Opaque banger the cooldown is literally a minute or two past the 3 minute recommended time using a Big Boy similarity "Whip It!" Brand torch on the lowest setting with a 40 second heat up in a clear bottom 5mm. Drop the time to 30 sec in the clear and it almost seems like it doesn't get enough heat or something. It's weird.

When using it with an Opaque ( @710Coils brand) at 45-50 seconds seconds and a 2 minute cooldown it seems to give good low-high 500's dabs but I'm also pretty inexperienced to Torch dabbing (unless were talking about the days on how fast you could get the Ti nail red hot) so It's probably my technique that's flawed.

It seems to be a really temperature sensitive material. Slightly too hot and it stains to the point of DC cleaner or Torching to get that stain off. Too low and it seems to just meld into the large pours and doesn't Qtip out and when reheating you could almost take a cold start if you really undershot the dab. This is after one half dry and one half distilled water dipped Q tip cleaning.

I can see how this would be an amazing insert for an enail when tuned in being that it's gives really tasty hits even on dabs that come in too hot, is great with globs (not my norm. Maybe .05-.1 is where I stay), & it would hide/burn away some of the residue (that again, might be completely due to my lack of experience) but honestly I dont think there's much this does that SiC can't and the SiC is definitely easier to clean.

All that being said I enjoy it and I think with enough practice can be just as easy to deal with as SiC but it isn't a forgiving material except for the sense that those high temp dabs don't seem to bother the throat for whatever reason.

On a side note I'm pretty stoked to try what I believe is a GG Sapphire insert (thanks @JCat ) to test against but i have a feeling if I torch dab it i'll break it before i can actually put it into a coil lol. Will definitely be a cool comparison considering that I've never tried gemstone inserts.

Here's that line that dips under the surface but also this is only after 3 dabs. I'll torch clean it and get another picture when I'm done for the night =)

Sorry for the long post.

picture url

Edit: Here it is after a torch clean. I really hope I'm just a shit dabber and that the staining is just me not using my temp gun right.
upload from web
 
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MileHighHuman

Well-Known Member
25mm and ya they seem to be. It changes colour when heated, going from crystal clear ruby when cold to more of a crimson when up to temp on e-nail.

Thx for the info.

Just want to make sure they're safe to consume extracts on.

It seems the American companies selling ruby inserts are getting there's from China, but I understand there's tons of different companies that they could get them from.

If anyone has both, flavor comparison and any other possible info would be appreciated.
 

710Coils

Well-Known Member
Manufacturer
So Ruby comes down to the polish. They break many units while learning how to put a clear polish on the inserts. This can cause stress to the insert and can sometimes be seen with a UV light and the right angle. But other than that. They are grown the same. I do not know of any filler they can add to the process and my manufacturer has been very transparent in the process and where they have been getting up to speed. Its all polish and keeping the heat down while doing it. So if you do buy any Ruby inserts, make sure to get a UV light and take them into a dark room and give them a good look to make sure you do not see any hairline stress cracks that only can be easily seen when under UV =)

Hope everyone is having a great week


Shane
 

Stu

Maconheiro
Staff member
Does anyone know how to set up an IR thermometer/ temp gun to properly read ruby and quartz surface temp?
If your IR thermometer allows for thermal emmisivity adjustment (not all do) you would change the setting based on the emissivity of the material. Here's a table of coefficients for a bunch of materials (ruby would be the same as sapphire).

:peace:
 

Roth

Pining for the Mountains
If your IR thermometer allows for thermal emmisivity adjustment (not all do) you would change the setting based on the emissivity of the material. Here's a table of coefficients for a bunch of materials (ruby would be the same as sapphire).

:peace:

Interesting, I don't think I've seen that table, or a listing specifically for "sapphire" before. The coefficient they list is 0.48, which is wildly different than what I had been using.

The closest I could find was "Emory Corundum" on this table. Scroll down to the 2nd table, the one for non-metals, and it lists a value of 0.86.

@Stu I just changed my IR gun to 0.48 to test out my ruby insert, and can definitely say that's not the right value for it.

I have my controller set to 500 degrees F. With a emissivity of 0.86, I typically had a temp reading of the insert floor around 430, give or take depending on environmental changes. I usually have a ceiling fan going on high, so I likely have a higher delta from controller to floor temp than most.

When I changed to 0.48, I was getting readings of around 610, far above what my controller is set to.

So not saying 0.86 is the right setting, but it's definitely more realistic than 0.48.



Does anyone with a ruby insert, an accurate probe thermometer, and an adjustable IR gun want to do a service to the community? Would be awesome to do some tests and find the correct emissivity value for our inserts.
 
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Stu

Maconheiro
Staff member
Interesting, I don't think I've seen that table, or a listing specifically for "sapphire" before. The coefficient they list is 0.48, which is wildly different than what I had been using.

The closest I could find was "Emory Corundum" on this table. Scroll down to the 2nd table, the one for non-metals, and it lists a value of 0.86.

@Stu I just changed my IR gun to 0.48 to test out my ruby insert, and can definitely say that's not the right value for it.

I have my controller set to 500 degrees F. With a emissivity of 0.86, I typically had a temp reading of the insert floor around 430, give or take depending on environmental changes. I usually have a fan going on high, so I likely have a higher delta from controller to floor temp than most.

When I changed to 0.48, I was getting readings of around 610, far above what my controller is set to.

So not saying 0.86 is the right setting, but it's definitely more realistic than 0.48.



Does anyone with a ruby insert, an accurate probe thermometer, and an adjustable IR gun want to do a service to the community? Would be awesome to do some tests and find the correct emissivity value for our inserts.
Good info. I can't vouch for that table I referenced, I just found it in a quick google search and linked it in an attempt to be helpful. My faith in the internet is diminished with each passing day it seems.:disgust:

:peace:
 

Roth

Pining for the Mountains
Good info. I can't vouch for that table I referenced, I just found it in a quick google search and linked it in an attempt to be helpful. My faith in the internet is diminished with each passing day it seems.:disgust:

:peace:

Ya, there definitely seems to be a decent range of values.

If I'm not mistaken, the surface finish will also affect the emissivity value, even between the same material. Could be wrong on that, would need to do a little more research.

I use it more as a relative guide for myself, knowing the temp might not be accurate. Helps me keep a relatively consistant temp between a cold winter day and a scorching summer day. I'm cheap on my heating/cooling bills , there are pretty drastic swings in temp in my house!


All that being said...I still wish I knew the correct value!
 

gxk

Well-Known Member
@MileHighHuman Yes they turn darker when heated, but I am using an e-nail set to 500-530F. It is useful for knowing whether it has been heating up long enough, because the controller reads set temp well before the insert has reached a stable temp. If it still looks pink, I know it needs a few more minutes. When it is burgundy I am good to go.

If I used a torch I think I would still use a timer and IR gun because I appreciate precision and I don't think the color change would replace the accuracy you can get with a timer and gun, but hopefully some torch users can give you a better take on that.
 

Zander

Well-Known Member
so, I was on dabtastics’ site earlier and stumbled upon their bangers page. I’ve only used dry herb vaporizers so far, so I’m not familiar with a banger. I typed in banger in the search area and found this thread. so can anybody explain to me what a banger is? I’m a major newbie.
 

bizwaxzion

Enigmatic Cannabist
@Zander - A banger is made from quartz and is used to vaporize concentrates. Fitted to a water pipe via standard gong joint, the bucket is heated with either a torch or enail coil and concentrate is placed on the hot surface. A carb cap is added to the top of the bucket while the user inhales the resulting vapor. There's a myriad of options available in shapes sizes and price ranges and (the topic of this thread) gemstones - you might find this thread informative - or google 'quartz banger'.
 
bizwaxzion,
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Zander

Well-Known Member
@Zander - A banger is made from quartz and is used to vaporize concentrates. Fitted to a water pipe via standard gong joint, the bucket is heated with either a torch or enail coil and concentrate is placed on the hot surface. A carb cap is added to the top of the bucket while the user inhales the resulting vapor. There's a myriad of options available in shapes sizes and price ranges and (the topic of this thread) gemstones - you might find this thread informative - or google 'quartz banger'.
thanks so much!
 

biohacker

H.R.E.A.M
Does the ruby change color at a good temperature for dabbing? (So I wouldnt have to use an IR gun)

You NEED an IR gun if torching my dude! It's not a WANT! :D

Is there any difference in ruby vs sapphire flavor / performance ?

Depends who you ask, Adapt Tech says:

Heat from the ruby transfers slightly different than the sapphire allowing for improved vaporization.

Personally having both sapphire and ruby in the exact same size/dimensions/manufacturer. I think Adapt Tech is full of shit. Where's @sapphiredabs when you need him!? :shrug::lol:

I still wish I knew the correct value!

I played with these values plenty, used the chart, etc. but in the end I found the most accurate temps were found just leaving the setting at default. :2c:
 
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