tennisguru1
EXCELSIOR!
I assume you are using AF? You just have two coefs to setup: P and I (there's no D term in AF but it's in my_evic and derivatives) At first your mod will likely overshoot a lot, so in order to avoid having your heating element go pop, perform your experiments at a low temperature.
Then use AF live monitor and watch closely the "live temperature" line. You'll need also to set the Y axis to have the maximum zoom level. Display also the "set temperature" line. Then you'll need to tweak P and D, upload settings and go back to the live monitor.
The goal is to try to have as little overshoot as possible (I prefer if it tends to undershoot actually) when not drawing but at the same time it needs to not collapse too much when you draw (playing with the max watts settings common to TC settings helps here, as we have no D term)
"I" must be much smaller than "P" usually. Start with P=500 and I=80 and experiment around that. There are some methods to fine-tune PID controllers but you'll have to learn that on your own. But doing it empirically works too.
Yes , Myevic on one,
Red Panda on Espion 200
Af on the Evic Dual
Both DNAc mods just work great no tweaking.
Great & clear explanation, thx.
I have a base to work with now, so it's basically controlling the
bounce back point in TC,as I see on my Joyetechs overshoot wildly.
And you suggest tweak till you get a few degrees undershoot.
Interesting, do I have the gist & now need to practice?