is that oil pooled between the paper and foil on the bottom side of the top sheet?!
No, that is just missing foil that came off the back side and fused to my jaws.
is that oil pooled between the paper and foil on the bottom side of the top sheet?!
I went with the same 1/4" carts but shorter. Will be drilling them along with a thermocouple into some aluminum alloy plates I had cut, controlled by a single pid.so i have decided to go with THESE for my heaters. they are 1/4 X 3-1/2" SS cartridge heaters. 300 watts! i got them both for $20 shipped. so less than an flat iron, but not flat. im thinking that because my plates are so small that the need for an element to cover most of the surface of the plate isnt that important here. plus the price was right.
anyway, i should have all my materials on monday and will start construction!
I went with the same 1/4" carts but shorter. Will be drilling them along with a thermocouple into some aluminum alloy plates I had cut, controlled by a single pid.
The point of the foil is for the foil side to be facing the heat and the parch side for the oil. I didn't notice any of that with the demo. I believe the temps he recommended were around 275.So the point of the foil is just to keep it folded or am I missing something? Couldn't you just make a hard crease when folding normal parchment to keep it closed.
im not sure oil slick had vise tech in mind when they developed that shit.
Man you had the same experience as me! I dropped my temp as low as I could and still didn't work.I got some oil slick wrap in today to try.
I had issues with the foil sticking to my jaws after the press and I can see oil embedded in the paper also.
It is a 50 ft roll for for $25 compared to my regular parchment in a 30 ft for $3
The top press was at 210f and the bottom was at 220f. I quit after that.
Definitely bro, it is the pressure and heat together that makes the foil stick to the heater and seems to facilitate the melting to the slick wrap. I will report back that squishing bubble rosin in slick wrap using the same heat and tek left no squish marks in the middle of the parchment at all. Slick wrap seems safe for bubble, but nugs being much thicker and taking much harder squishing (also having more solid plant matter in them) seems to be no dice.Agreed. The slick wrap looks nice but my jaws are not coated like hair press irons and the two do not play well together.
I have a decent set of Mitutoyo micrometer's here that are good to .0001" . The slick wrap measures .0020" and my parchment measures .0026" fyi.
Is it a non-stick material as well? If so, this sounds fantastic! Man I wanna check that out!@Joel W. @herbivore21
I didn't want to post this until I had a chance to try it out, but I think it will be the best bet as far as plastic sheeting goes (and offer a great view of the press).
Kapton - it has a tensile modulus (resistance to stretching) of almost 300,000psi at 392°F (compare to teflon @ 80,000psi), remains stable up to 750F, and is used to shield space craft. It should be the safest plastic as well- Dupont claims "there are no known organic solvents for the film."
Is it a non-stick material as well?
There's only one way to find out, but I imagine it's at least as resistant to sticking as silicone. I'm excited to try it out myself. I hope it will be durable enough to stand up to long term use.
what product are you talking about?
Sorry I haven't read through the whole thread, but am interested in getting a dedicated iron to try this out. Is there a consensus on a best model or maybe a good one on the cheaper end to try out? And what are the yields like? I saw some people saying 15-20% but that seems a bit much. Obviously it depends on material but I usually get good to really good dank in Washington and would've expected like 10% return...so 15-20 would be phenomenal.
edit: @2clicker the jb weld that I filled the back of my plates with transfer heat into my vise until eventually the whole things to hot to touch without oven mits, but I have not other insulation between my jbwelded plates and the vise. just making the point that jb well will conduct the heat just fine. but rather than fix that heater into place, just shim it in place with aluminum foil. that way you can replace the heater cartridge should the need occur.
I was referring to the Kapton film I linked to in my previous post.
@herbivore21 @Monsoon any news on Facebook or elsewhere about the d-nail heat press delay? I haven't heard anything since the Sept 1st email about the delay. Thanks!
Thanks for the link!Haven't heard anything, but this page has the most up to date info:
http://www.d-nail.com/info/news/heat-press-update-shipping-timeframe/
If I read one of the comments correctly, they might start shipping within the next week. That would match their timeline so they should be on track. They're going to be using the first presses as base models for upgrades so as they figure shit out themselves, current owners will be able to upgrade their machines as well.Thanks for the link!
Awesome I am definitely in batch one. I think I was 13th to order. Hopefully that doesn't jinx anything
My b day is at the end of the month so if I get it before then it will be like an early b day present. Woot
This.If I read one of the comments correctly, they might start shipping within the next week. That would match their timeline so they should be on track. They're going to be using the first presses as base models for upgrades so as they figure shit out themselves, current owners will be able to upgrade their machines as well.
D-Nail is beta testing a new parchment alternative film that is rated for up to 5000 psi and 500 degrees without loosing 1 drop of cannabinoids or terpenes during the process. Water and oils bead up on it like GoreTex which should make collection easy with zero losses. Once they deem it to be safe for rosin production they'll release all the details. It's sounding like it could be a SlickSheet killer for oil production when it's released.