Rosin Technique....Easy DIY Solventless

just_the_flu

they say im crazy but i have a good time
... i'm about to try this tech myself as it seems straight forward and i've been watching this thread since it started...

I'm glad i saw this :
...try clamping the iron first, then heat til you hear the first sizzle?...

without having tried anything yet, i feel that statement will save me some aggravation....
 
just_the_flu,
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Been Vapin

Fringe Class
... i'm about to try this tech myself as it seems straight forward and i've been watching this thread since it started...

I'm glad i saw this :


without having tried anything yet, i feel that statement will save me some aggravation....


No need for thermometers using this technique. All you need a silence to hear the sizzle. Also use your eyes look and see for squirts. When pressing hash squirts come before sizzle.

Have to be careful not to deliver too much pressure with the arbor press. Wonder how much psi this actually was?

sMrM7A7.jpg


Stay squishing

4IxvLJT.jpg
 
Last edited:

vezj420

Member
I still don't get why people aren't just using muslin cloth like I am!? Seems like the micron screens are a lot more money for no additional benefit (I own plenty of said micron screens btw)...
I would like to check out the SS screens but I do wonder if they are like ss screens for solvent teks, which IME wick way too much solution (necessitating the use of much more solvent) and are no more effective than whatman style standard paper lab filters or even an unbleached coffee filter with proper lab filtration technique (pre-wetting filters etc) depending on the SS mesh being used - but I digress, solvent teks are for other threads!

@herbivore21, we meet again! This time for me to talk/ask in depth about bubble hash filtration technique for rosin. Up till yesterday, I was using normal (big size) tea bags cut to size for my hash filtration. I was getting decent presses (using a normal hair straightener that has a lowest level of 150 C) which looked like:

bWoRJvF.jpg

Notice the robot! ;)

As you can see, there's still a bit of "plant" material in there which I would like to do away with.
The bigger problem I found is that many times, my hash heated up to the point that it blew out of its filter paper and into the oil (even with 2-3 wraparounds, 4 wraps seem to block the oil). Not the end of the world - I just collected the leaked hash and either put it back into my stash or wadded it up into another filter for a separate press.

Then yesterday, I got my hand on some whatman filter papers, pore size 20-25 um:

0664813.jpg

Always wanted to use these after remembering my hi-school chem classes :brow:

I cut up the abovementioned filter papers (circular) into small rectangles for wrapping the hash into.

I first tried a double wrap, fully hydrated (almost dripping wet-accidentally;I had to dry it out a bit first). This first press scared me a bit because the heat from the plates almost immediately started boiling the water on the filter+hash with a LOUD sizzle. After removing the tongs, I saw that there was hardly any oil that made it out - there were only a few water droplets around the area of the parchment paper.

Too much filtering, I thought, so I tried a 2nd sample with a single wrap only, and with minimal hydration. This 2nd sample yielded better results, especially on the 2nd press. Very clean oil coming out of the filter with no plant matter. Unfortunately, I did not take a pic of this result to post here...

However, I am still not very satisfied with the yield. The Whatman paper seems to be too much of a block (it is rated at 20-25 um as per their spec, but really not as good porosity as a mash mesh or other rosin screens that are out there). Tbh, these filters are a bit of a disappointment considering their cost (equiv. of $25 for a 100 pk) compared to tea/coffee/better filters.

I am going to try another couple of presses tonight and see if I can get a better technique down. I'm also seriously considering trying silk/nylon screens or maybe even muslin cloth.

TLDR - Got good but contaminated yields with tea bags; getting lower but purer yields with lab filter papers of 20-25 um pore size.


My questions for you guys are:

1) How does one prevent the blowout of hash from the filter medium? Is it only a trick of getting the right temp?

2) I have been under the impression that you should stop pressing 2-3 secs after you hear the sizzle. Is this correct? Or is the sizzle to be prolonged?? :huh:

3) What is the proper hydration technique for this material?

If I can't seem to get (continued) good results, I may even just start pressing the hash like how some of y'all do with buds - no screen at all! :o
 

Quetzalcoatl

DEADY GUERRERO/DIRT COBAIN/GEORGE KUSH
@herbivore21, we meet again! This time for me to talk/ask in depth about bubble hash filtration technique for rosin. Up till yesterday, I was using normal (big size) tea bags cut to size for my hash filtration. I was getting decent presses (using a normal hair straightener that has a lowest level of 150 C) which looked like:

bWoRJvF.jpg

Notice the robot! ;)

As you can see, there's still a bit of "plant" material in there which I would like to do away with.
The bigger problem I found is that many times, my hash heated up to the point that it blew out of its filter paper and into the oil (even with 2-3 wraparounds, 4 wraps seem to block the oil). Not the end of the world - I just collected the leaked hash and either put it back into my stash or wadded it up into another filter for a separate press.

Then yesterday, I got my hand on some whatman filter papers, pore size 20-25 um:

0664813.jpg

Always wanted to use these after remembering my hi-school chem classes :brow:

I cut up the abovementioned filter papers (circular) into small rectangles for wrapping the hash into.

I first tried a double wrap, fully hydrated (almost dripping wet-accidentally;I had to dry it out a bit first). This first press scared me a bit because the heat from the plates almost immediately started boiling the water on the filter+hash with a LOUD sizzle. After removing the tongs, I saw that there was hardly any oil that made it out - there were only a few water droplets around the area of the parchment paper.

Too much filtering, I thought, so I tried a 2nd sample with a single wrap only, and with minimal hydration. This 2nd sample yielded better results, especially on the 2nd press. Very clean oil coming out of the filter with no plant matter. Unfortunately, I did not take a pic of this result to post here...

However, I am still not very satisfied with the yield. The Whatman paper seems to be too much of a block (it is rated at 20-25 um as per their spec, but really not as good porosity as a mash mesh or other rosin screens that are out there). Tbh, these filters are a bit of a disappointment considering their cost (equiv. of $25 for a 100 pk) compared to tea/coffee/better filters.

I am going to try another couple of presses tonight and see if I can get a better technique down. I'm also seriously considering trying silk/nylon screens or maybe even muslin cloth.

TLDR - Got good but contaminated yields with tea bags; getting lower but purer yields with lab filter papers of 20-25 um pore size.


My questions for you guys are:

1) How does one prevent the blowout of hash from the filter medium? Is it only a trick of getting the right temp?

2) I have been under the impression that you should stop pressing 2-3 secs after you hear the sizzle. Is this correct? Or is the sizzle to be prolonged?? :huh:

3) What is the proper hydration technique for this material?

If I can't seem to get (continued) good results, I may even just start pressing the hash like how some of y'all do with buds - no screen at all! :o
Your first picture is too small to zoom in on and see any sort of plant matter...

1. Don't pack so tightly and don't squish so hard. Bags tear when the plant material runs out of space to compress into and when/where the mesh material is weaker.

2. It depends at what temperature you're pressing at honestly. You're gonna hear a sizzle around 200 but you can hold the squish longer there compared to at 300.

3. Ideally a Boveda pack or similar to evenly get the material at the same moisture.
 

herbivore21

Well-Known Member
@herbivore21, we meet again! This time for me to talk/ask in depth about bubble hash filtration technique for rosin. Up till yesterday, I was using normal (big size) tea bags cut to size for my hash filtration. I was getting decent presses (using a normal hair straightener that has a lowest level of 150 C) which looked like:

bWoRJvF.jpg

Notice the robot! ;)

As you can see, there's still a bit of "plant" material in there which I would like to do away with.
The bigger problem I found is that many times, my hash heated up to the point that it blew out of its filter paper and into the oil (even with 2-3 wraparounds, 4 wraps seem to block the oil). Not the end of the world - I just collected the leaked hash and either put it back into my stash or wadded it up into another filter for a separate press.

Then yesterday, I got my hand on some whatman filter papers, pore size 20-25 um:

0664813.jpg

Always wanted to use these after remembering my hi-school chem classes :brow:

I cut up the abovementioned filter papers (circular) into small rectangles for wrapping the hash into.

I first tried a double wrap, fully hydrated (almost dripping wet-accidentally;I had to dry it out a bit first). This first press scared me a bit because the heat from the plates almost immediately started boiling the water on the filter+hash with a LOUD sizzle. After removing the tongs, I saw that there was hardly any oil that made it out - there were only a few water droplets around the area of the parchment paper.

Too much filtering, I thought, so I tried a 2nd sample with a single wrap only, and with minimal hydration. This 2nd sample yielded better results, especially on the 2nd press. Very clean oil coming out of the filter with no plant matter. Unfortunately, I did not take a pic of this result to post here...

However, I am still not very satisfied with the yield. The Whatman paper seems to be too much of a block (it is rated at 20-25 um as per their spec, but really not as good porosity as a mash mesh or other rosin screens that are out there). Tbh, these filters are a bit of a disappointment considering their cost (equiv. of $25 for a 100 pk) compared to tea/coffee/better filters.

I am going to try another couple of presses tonight and see if I can get a better technique down. I'm also seriously considering trying silk/nylon screens or maybe even muslin cloth.

TLDR - Got good but contaminated yields with tea bags; getting lower but purer yields with lab filter papers of 20-25 um pore size.


My questions for you guys are:

1) How does one prevent the blowout of hash from the filter medium? Is it only a trick of getting the right temp?

2) I have been under the impression that you should stop pressing 2-3 secs after you hear the sizzle. Is this correct? Or is the sizzle to be prolonged?? :huh:

3) What is the proper hydration technique for this material?

If I can't seem to get (continued) good results, I may even just start pressing the hash like how some of y'all do with buds - no screen at all! :o
Greetings my friend :)

To start by answering your questions:

1. I actually find that with my squish rig that the major risk of blowouts comes exclusively from pressure - not temperature (I tend to always squish at 180-210f and no hotter). The thing that I have noticed is that hash requires nowhere near as much pressure as buds to squish. Many others will have noticed this too.

2. I tend to keep the squishes super short, apply the pressure very slowly but release a 1-2 seconds after you have reached the maximum pressure you can bring to bear. I do not wait to hear any sizzle - if I don't think I got it all out, I'll give it another squish. This avoids excessive degradation of your oil from squishing under hot plates for too long. Hash pucks are very easy to examine for more resin. They will look dried out and flake off the filter once they have been liberated of the good stuff!

I do not hydrate anything that I squish anymore, in fact even my most recent bud squishes have been without any humidity pack use and there has been no loss in yields.

Bubble hash should squish perfectly without any hydration IME.

For traditional hashes and especially less melty dry sifts, I would grab the amount you wish to press and place it in a mason jar overnight with a high % (>62%) boveda pack to add moisture. I do not recommend adding tap water, since this will be likely to leave impurities from the water behind in your rosin that we'd rather not dab. Only use purified water if you must. I have never needed to do this though.

I advise the use of high RH humidity packs as it is easier not to overdo things and get more even humidity spread throughout the material. Consider breaking up the hash somewhat to maximize exposed surface area in the jar to absorb the most moisture possible across the hash. One problem with manually adding water is you will get some parts that end up wetter than others.

So far muslin remains the best filter material I have used for hash :)

Hope this helps man, I had myself tried whatman and coffee filters in the past but have found that they blow out more than muslin IME. Whatman filters were definitely better than coffee filters btw.
 

tepictoton

Well-Known Member
Have been using my 25micron steel meshes from 316twholesale with great success for pressing traditional chocolates jiji...

Wondered of into using mesh screens sold for ecig vapes, but these just could not stand the pressure like the ones from 316twholesale... Just my two cents.

Just came back from buying a bench vice with big plates, 4soldering irons and a friend made me two ss plates. Will report on how this goes. I invested a full 60euros, basically nothing I think....

My yields with small bench vice and hair iron have been consistently around 50%, I am expecting to get that up a little bit more, and make it possible to do bigger squishes. For now it has been two grams at a time...
 

MileHighLife

Blower of glass, grower of grass
@herbivore21, we meet again! This time for me to talk/ask in depth about bubble hash filtration technique for rosin. Up till yesterday, I was using normal (big size) tea bags cut to size for my hash filtration. I was getting decent presses (using a normal hair straightener that has a lowest level of 150 C) which looked like:

bWoRJvF.jpg

Notice the robot! ;)

As you can see, there's still a bit of "plant" material in there which I would like to do away with.
The bigger problem I found is that many times, my hash heated up to the point that it blew out of its filter paper and into the oil (even with 2-3 wraparounds, 4 wraps seem to block the oil). Not the end of the world - I just collected the leaked hash and either put it back into my stash or wadded it up into another filter for a separate press.

Then yesterday, I got my hand on some whatman filter papers, pore size 20-25 um:

0664813.jpg

Always wanted to use these after remembering my hi-school chem classes :brow:

I cut up the abovementioned filter papers (circular) into small rectangles for wrapping the hash into.

I first tried a double wrap, fully hydrated (almost dripping wet-accidentally;I had to dry it out a bit first). This first press scared me a bit because the heat from the plates almost immediately started boiling the water on the filter+hash with a LOUD sizzle. After removing the tongs, I saw that there was hardly any oil that made it out - there were only a few water droplets around the area of the parchment paper.

Too much filtering, I thought, so I tried a 2nd sample with a single wrap only, and with minimal hydration. This 2nd sample yielded better results, especially on the 2nd press. Very clean oil coming out of the filter with no plant matter. Unfortunately, I did not take a pic of this result to post here...

However, I am still not very satisfied with the yield. The Whatman paper seems to be too much of a block (it is rated at 20-25 um as per their spec, but really not as good porosity as a mash mesh or other rosin screens that are out there). Tbh, these filters are a bit of a disappointment considering their cost (equiv. of $25 for a 100 pk) compared to tea/coffee/better filters.

I am going to try another couple of presses tonight and see if I can get a better technique down. I'm also seriously considering trying silk/nylon screens or maybe even muslin cloth.

TLDR - Got good but contaminated yields with tea bags; getting lower but purer yields with lab filter papers of 20-25 um pore size.


My questions for you guys are:

1) How does one prevent the blowout of hash from the filter medium? Is it only a trick of getting the right temp?

2) I have been under the impression that you should stop pressing 2-3 secs after you hear the sizzle. Is this correct? Or is the sizzle to be prolonged?? :huh:

3) What is the proper hydration technique for this material?

If I can't seem to get (continued) good results, I may even just start pressing the hash like how some of y'all do with buds - no screen at all! :o

D-Nail just released some seamless nylon filter bags in different mesh sizes. Could be a good option for you ...

http://www.d-nail.com/heat-press/d-nail-seamless-nylon-bag-filter-25-micron-10-pack
 

MileHighLife

Blower of glass, grower of grass
Paid around $70 for a 24 inch x 48 inch roll of 48 micron 316T screen from Amazon. I'd recommend staying away from nylon, and premade bags of any kind. The 316T screens can be cleaned with Everclear and reused.



NWHeGS4.jpg

Nylon wouldn't be the material to use if you're trying to clean the screens with alcohol but I believe the seamless design is better than folding a piece of ss into a packet as there would be more nooks and crannies in the ss packet for resin to hide in. A seamless ss bag seems like it would be the best of both worlds.
 
MileHighLife,

tepictoton

Well-Known Member
I actually think the seems help if folded to the inside... Someone else suggested the same thing here.
 
tepictoton,

fatty_tattoos

CBD Addict
@herbivore21, we meet again! This time for me to talk/ask in depth about bubble hash filtration technique for rosin. Up till yesterday, I was using normal (big size) tea bags cut to size for my hash filtration. I was getting decent presses (using a normal hair straightener that has a lowest level of 150 C) which looked like:

bWoRJvF.jpg

Notice the robot! ;)

As you can see, there's still a bit of "plant" material in there which I would like to do away with.
The bigger problem I found is that many times, my hash heated up to the point that it blew out of its filter paper and into the oil (even with 2-3 wraparounds, 4 wraps seem to block the oil). Not the end of the world - I just collected the leaked hash and either put it back into my stash or wadded it up into another filter for a separate press.

Then yesterday, I got my hand on some whatman filter papers, pore size 20-25 um:

0664813.jpg

Always wanted to use these after remembering my hi-school chem classes :brow:

I cut up the abovementioned filter papers (circular) into small rectangles for wrapping the hash into.

I first tried a double wrap, fully hydrated (almost dripping wet-accidentally;I had to dry it out a bit first). This first press scared me a bit because the heat from the plates almost immediately started boiling the water on the filter+hash with a LOUD sizzle. After removing the tongs, I saw that there was hardly any oil that made it out - there were only a few water droplets around the area of the parchment paper.

Too much filtering, I thought, so I tried a 2nd sample with a single wrap only, and with minimal hydration. This 2nd sample yielded better results, especially on the 2nd press. Very clean oil coming out of the filter with no plant matter. Unfortunately, I did not take a pic of this result to post here...

However, I am still not very satisfied with the yield. The Whatman paper seems to be too much of a block (it is rated at 20-25 um as per their spec, but really not as good porosity as a mash mesh or other rosin screens that are out there). Tbh, these filters are a bit of a disappointment considering their cost (equiv. of $25 for a 100 pk) compared to tea/coffee/better filters.

I am going to try another couple of presses tonight and see if I can get a better technique down. I'm also seriously considering trying silk/nylon screens or maybe even muslin cloth.

TLDR - Got good but contaminated yields with tea bags; getting lower but purer yields with lab filter papers of 20-25 um pore size.


My questions for you guys are:

1) How does one prevent the blowout of hash from the filter medium? Is it only a trick of getting the right temp?

2) I have been under the impression that you should stop pressing 2-3 secs after you hear the sizzle. Is this correct? Or is the sizzle to be prolonged?? :huh:

3) What is the proper hydration technique for this material?

If I can't seem to get (continued) good results, I may even just start pressing the hash like how some of y'all do with buds - no screen at all! :o
First off, lower them temps. You'll preserve more terpenes and have less chance of a blowout. I also press most of my hash with a straightener that bottoms out temps at 150C, get a thermometer and turn it off when it reaches desired temp or wait until it cools to desired temp (I've found i get a wonderful terpy batter - budder that shatters - at 90-95 C, if you desire see through shatter hit 100-110 C) I'd also snag some melita unbleached coffee filters if possible from your local walmart or grocer as those are cheap as hell and keep all contaminate out. Check out farmerjoeparker on the youtubes for videos. I also picked up some of that 25 micron SS mesh off ebay which has been working wonders but in the mean time those coffee filters work great as well.
Hope that helps mang
 

vezj420

Member
Thanks a ton for all your suggestions guys! So I only managed to do exactly one press last night and got much better results after following a lot of y'all's advice:

I4awcJW.jpg


The pressed material was very less (I was working with what was left in my 2ndary stash tin) and thus yielded little oil as u can see above. However, I feel I am close to perfect now after doing the following as suggested above:

a) Lowered temps - I warmed up the straightener just a bit before sliding the parchment+filter+material in and turned it off. I then started pressing lightly after turning the straightener back on. This was a great way to control temperature - I could press for a full 5-7 secs without hearing a sizzle. In fact, as @herbivore21 mentioned, I was able to press out most of the oil without the material sizzling at all.

b) Space between material and filter seams - Thanks to @Quetzalcoatl for this one...I kept a couple of mm gap between the material edge and the filter seams in order to avoid the hash blowing out under heat. Worked like a charm!

c) Filter material (tea bag) - I went back to my trusty tea bags (2 layered wrap) after ditching my Whatmans. I was able to get out most of the oil on the first press itself. However, I am going to try a press again tonight with a single layer of Whatman filter paper - seems a shame to waste them - and will report back!
 

zor

Well-Known Member
Interesting, I never considered humidity to be a boon for pressing rosin. I'm gonna try some side-by-side experiments.

I had some time to kill and my curiosity was piqued yesterday so I pressed a few batches of King's Bread, Holy Grail, and Thin Mint GSC. The Revlon iron I'm using, at its lowest setting, seems to be in the 200-220 range based on my IR thermometer readings, so I played around with press times...

...once again, it bears repeating how different varieties produce different results under (what I try to reproduce) the same conditions (temp, press time, starting material weight etc). The Holy Grail would almost immediately gurgle out a sticky dark brown resin while the other two strains produced light yellow, almost shatter-like oils.

For the sticky stuff I've threw the parchment collection into my freezer, had a meeting for about an hour and half, came back and it was easier to collect although still a bit viscous and goopy.

I vaped all of my collected goodies and suddenly woke up on my couch at 2:30am. Whoops!
 

fatty_tattoos

CBD Addict
Interesting, I never considered humidity to be a boon for pressing rosin. I'm gonna try some side-by-side experiments.

I had some time to kill and my curiosity was piqued yesterday so I pressed a few batches of King's Bread, Holy Grail, and Thin Mint GSC. The Revlon iron I'm using, at its lowest setting, seems to be in the 200-220 range based on my IR thermometer readings, so I played around with press times...

...once again, it bears repeating how different varieties produce different results under (what I try to reproduce) the same conditions (temp, press time, starting material weight etc). The Holy Grail would almost immediately gurgle out a sticky dark brown resin while the other two strains produced light yellow, almost shatter-like oils.

For the sticky stuff I've threw the parchment collection into my freezer, had a meeting for about an hour and half, came back and it was easier to collect although still a bit viscous and goopy.

I vaped all of my collected goodies and suddenly woke up on my couch at 2:30am. Whoops!
I too pass out in the name of science:science:. Testing, testing always testing. Rock on zor
 
fatty_tattoos,

herbivore21

Well-Known Member
Thanks a ton for all your suggestions guys! So I only managed to do exactly one press last night and got much better results after following a lot of y'all's advice:

I4awcJW.jpg


The pressed material was very less (I was working with what was left in my 2ndary stash tin) and thus yielded little oil as u can see above. However, I feel I am close to perfect now after doing the following as suggested above:

a) Lowered temps - I warmed up the straightener just a bit before sliding the parchment+filter+material in and turned it off. I then started pressing lightly after turning the straightener back on. This was a great way to control temperature - I could press for a full 5-7 secs without hearing a sizzle. In fact, as @herbivore21 mentioned, I was able to press out most of the oil without the material sizzling at all.

b) Space between material and filter seams - Thanks to @Quetzalcoatl for this one...I kept a couple of mm gap between the material edge and the filter seams in order to avoid the hash blowing out under heat. Worked like a charm!

c) Filter material (tea bag) - I went back to my trusty tea bags (2 layered wrap) after ditching my Whatmans. I was able to get out most of the oil on the first press itself. However, I am going to try a press again tonight with a single layer of Whatman filter paper - seems a shame to waste them - and will report back!

Glad to see you've had more success my friend! That is looking like some good hash rosin :D

Dark oil does not mean lesser oil at all from a high quality long-term cured hash, these can be some of the best oils out there IME (and you guys know I have produced the glassy clear with reckless abandon in my time making extracts ;) ). I yearn for the availability of traditional hashes that I could squish. Sadly there is none to be found for in this herbivore's habitat.

I love that creamy flavor that can be had in some hashes! Delicious! :drool:
 

TboneToker

Well-Known Member
Does anyone know which page here has the best info on making rosin? Or is it really something that you just need to learn for yourself?
 
TboneToker,

olysh pops

Well-Known Member
Hi

I ve tried rosin tech and it works perfect, thanks to all posters !

I meet an issue when collecting oil : oil does not stick onto dabber but stick onto parchment.

I bought new parchment paper (Albal) but issue is same, oil is lost on parchment.

Parchment paper i use absorb fat, may it be an issue for rosin tech?

Would you have a tip or an advise to reduce/avoid loss on parchment ?
 
olysh pops,

Quetzalcoatl

DEADY GUERRERO/DIRT COBAIN/GEORGE KUSH
Hi

I ve tried rosin tech and it works perfect, thanks to all posters !

I meet an issue when collecting oil : oil does not stick onto dabber but stick onto parchment.

I bought new parchment paper (Albal) but issue is same, oil is lost on parchment.

Parchment paper i use absorb fat, may it be an issue for rosin tech?

Would you have a tip or an advise to reduce/avoid loss on parchment ?
Don't use quilon parchment paper. This was discussed a few times in the earlier half of the thread IIRC.
 

PNW_High_Times

Well-Known Member
Hi

I ve tried rosin tech and it works perfect, thanks to all posters !

I meet an issue when collecting oil : oil does not stick onto dabber but stick onto parchment.

I bought new parchment paper (Albal) but issue is same, oil is lost on parchment.

Parchment paper i use absorb fat, may it be an issue for rosin tech?

Would you have a tip or an advise to reduce/avoid loss on parchment ?

I have a stone that absorbs water and then I put it in the freezer for a couple hours. Then I just place the parchment paper on the stone when I'm extracting and the concentrate comes right up. I got it from a rosintek promo but I don't know if they're selling them. You should be able to use any hard frozen surface and just put your parchment paper on it before trying to collect your concentrate.
 
Last edited:
PNW_High_Times,
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