Discontinued RBT Splinter (All Versions)

[bossman]

I've tried tubo and dna firmwares and strongly prefer tubo. I feel like I get more even cooking, and I miss autofire (cruise mode) too much. I've used AF w/ other atomizers (not splinters) and I prefer the 'adjust on the mod' nature of tubo (w/ AF I had to adjust settings on PC which I didn't like). Do you have any specific questions about it?

I recommend you try a Ravage or an Espion at some point. I've sold half of my DNA250C mods the Red Panda performance is just that good. Quicker heat up with a better first hit from a cold start for all my Zs too. I still like the ergos of the rxg3d but that's its only edge. And the only think I miss about myevic is the 5° temp increments, which I prefer to the 2° of the Red Panda mods.

 

[tokenknifeguy]

I've tried tubo and dna firmwares and strongly prefer tubo. I feel like I get more even cooking, and I miss autofire (cruise mode) too much. I've used AF w/ other atomizers (not splinters) and I prefer the 'adjust on the mod' nature of tubo (w/ AF I had to adjust settings on PC which I didn't like). Do you have any specific questions about it?

Yeah when you use the tubo firmware, do you change anything up with it? I have the Z, so what do you put as your ohms? I'm about to mess around with it myself, just want to have something to compare it too.

Consolidated21........​

I was talking about the long bent stem from LA mart. I totally forgot about that type of stem and would love to try it out. However I really love the long bent stem, much better than the short spiked bent stem or the nubbler, or any other stems like the elev8r.

 

[Shit Snacks]

Yeah when you use the tubo firmware, do you change anything up with it? I have the Z, so what do you put as your ohms? I'm about to mess around with it myself, just want to have something to compare it too.

Consolidated21........​

I was talking about the long bent stem from LA mart. I totally forgot about that type of stem and would love to try it out. However I really love the long bent stem, much better than the short spiked bent stem or the nubbler, or any other stems like the elev8r.

Zero all the ohms, to get cold resistance (make sure Z has been sitting at room temp for a while without power to get proper cold reading) and lock that value. Then just play with the M2 value in Tubo, this is the TCR (use edit to set yourself to Tubo M2 on fire screen) up and down to see what feels like the right temps for you. You may want to disable algo as well, differing opinions about PID values... Oh and also very important, use edit on fire screen to change the wattage from 70 down to 50 for a Splinter too!

Only the nub fits in my splinter z, the short spiky bent does not, and none of the old bent stems fit. The 19 mm joint length is too long on those, splinter z needs 19/22 stems, but there is variance so it can be hit or miss.

 

[bossman]

Yeah when you use the tubo firmware, do you change anything up with it? I have the Z, so what do you put as your ohms? I'm about to mess around with it myself, just want to have something to compare it too.

What mod are you using again? These days my approach with all my TC Splinter mods is to start with minimal settings: TCR 125, max 50W, and the accepted unlocked cold resistance. I'll also up the fire button duration to 20 or 25 seconds and set my preferred double and triple click functions but that's it really.

As someone who spent a lot of time with expensive, scarce DNA mods as my first Splinter config with super even abv I'm well rid of resistance adjustments. I used to rely on these adjustments to crank my DNA Splinter Zs and get quick vapor without preheating.

Again just as a pro tip: anybody with a Z should try a Wismec Sinuous Ravage or Joyetech Espion. I've found Red Panda on these two mods to be the best Z performance of anything I've tried and not fucking with resistance at all is a nice value add.

I've encountered a number of posts saying myevic, Tubo, or Arctic Fox firmware works better for one person and their Splinter(s). For me that was the old myevic I still use on my rxg3ds. However, all of those black and white firmware options have a lower ceiling for chef's kiss TC than the two affordable Red Panda mods, which are more like DNA250C performance without the slow heat up, fiddly temp stepping, and false alarm atomizer/resistance checks.

 

[Rab42]

just to add on to the reasons to get the ravage I saw it down to $9.99 at vapesourcing

 

[entirely_foreign]

Yeah when you use the tubo firmware, do you change anything up with it? I have the Z, so what do you put as your ohms? I'm about to mess around with it myself, just want to have something to compare it too.

I don't change the ohms, you want to lock the resistance at room temp. Shit snacks already gave a pretty good description of how to do that. My settings for the Zv2 (these will be different if you have a U.S. custom Z): 0.447 ohms (again, this is just my mod reading this, I didn't change anything), 150 TCR, 50 W max, 465 F. My TCR value is pretty wonky (it's too low, which is why my temperature is set so high) but I get really great results through water. How I hit: pre-heat for 15-20 seconds, give it a couple of test pulls to get the heat moving and then slowly but consistely draw until I see vapor, then pick up the draw speed a bit and draw until there's no more lung capacity left. I always get a monster hit and most of the bowl is cashed. I spin the stem or the Z, but don't stir and get cooking that's even enough for me.

 

[BestBuds]

Ok. I have a G3D and just put the TUBO firmware on it just now. I just have to say I really suck at Mods and firmware.

 

[SquirrelMaster]

just to add on to the reasons to get the ravage I saw it down to $9.99 at vapesourcing

View attachment 3241

Well that went fast! https://vapesourcing.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=ravage
Not that I'm surprised, that was a great price!

 

[Rab42]

Yeah and I paid over $30 for both of mine, hopefully some of the people here were able to get one .

 

[Shit Snacks]

I grabbed a blue Ravage to try, came to $18 shipped, thanks to @bossman for the tip!

 

[MikeRotchHertz]

I grabbed a blue Ravage to try, came to $18 shipped, thanks to @bossman for the tip!

I had to grab the whole kit which still ended up at 25 with shipping

 

[Shit Snacks]

Got an email that my ravage is out of stock, so could be a week or two before they have it again to ship, just got to put it out of my mind someday something will show up!

And I just got one of these^ in Lake Green thanks to @seki who got regular green and the more clear blue above. Probably the nicest cooling stem I've ever seen honestly, thanks again to @Vlad the Inhaler aka 508phineas on Instagram (hit him up over there to place orders!) The colored stems are 19/22 and the clear ones are 19/19

 

[jbm]

Again just as a pro tip: anybody with a Z should try a Wismec Sinuous Ravage or Joyetech Espion. I've found Red Panda on these two mods to be the best Z performance of anything I've tried and not fucking with resistance at all is a nice value add.

What @bossman said. I had a custom Z on a LV Paranormal and I could never get the performance that I’ve gotten from the Espion and Ravage.

 

[Summer]

I just got one of these^ in Lake Green thanks to @seki

SS, I assume you got the 19/22. How much $? And compare the effect of the XL8r's spikes spaced throughout the stem to this one where the spikes are clustered on the bottom 1/2.

Also, see if the top (not joint) of the stem will slide in the TM like the OG RBT stems do.

 

[Shit Snacks]

SS, I assume you got the 19/22. How much $? And compare the effect of the XL8r's spikes spaced throughout the stem to this one where the spikes are clustered on the bottom 1/2.

Also, see if the top (not joint) of the stem will slide in the TM like the OG RBT stems do.

Yup, Zion stem, I'm not sure what retail is but 508phineas can tell you... Should be reasonable!

I explained in a different thread, Milaana maybe, how the spikes are very different here, it is not about how they are spaced in the stem, is the pattern of them and size and everything that is totally different. I still haven't tried it, but I expect this to be far superior to the simpler designs... This is a vigreux cooling spike pattern, I went into more detail about it in the Milaana thread.

I was planning to test the TM, though if it fits (which I'm not sure that it will, I think it's not long enough plain space) the mouthpiece would then be a wide ground glass joint (not nice on the lips), and there would be no way to get a screen in that end where it could be removed later, so yeah I don't think it is going to be a good option for a TM stem!

 

[arb]

Yup, Zion stem, I'm not sure what retail is but 508phineas can tell you... Should be reasonable!

I explained in a different thread, Milaana maybe, how the spikes are very different here, it is not about how they are spaced in the stem, is the pattern of them and size and everything that is totally different. I still haven't tried it, but I expect this to be far superior to the simpler designs... This is a vigreux cooling spike pattern, I went into more detail about it in the Milaana thread.

I was planning to test the TM, though if it fits (which I'm not sure that it will, I think it's not long enough plain space) the mouthpiece would then be a wide ground glass joint (not nice on the lips), and there would be no way to get a screen in that end where it could be removed later, so yeah I don't think it is going to be a good option for a TM stem!

Laboy Glass Fractional Column Vigreux with 19/22 Joints 120mm in Indentation Length Lab Glass Condenser for Apparatus in Organic Chemsitry: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

Laboy Glass Fractional Column Vigreux with 19/22 Joints 120mm in Indentation Length Lab Glass Condenser for Apparatus in Organic Chemsitry: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

www.amazon.com

They make mention of the spike orientation on these lab adapters.
I have some of these guys glass coming from China now,time will tell.

 

[tokenknifeguy]

Ok. I have a G3D and just put the TUBO firmware on it just now. I just have to say I really suck at Mods and firmware.

Yeah me too. I had to put my splinter z into another box mod to figure out what the ohms is and now using that setting on my tetrax firmware box mod. Gonna try it out. My problem is that I'm on windows 8 and way behind on the tech standpoint, but I don't like change and don't care for the newer windows. In fact, I really liked windows 7 and did not like 8 when my computer died and I had to switch over.

However, I have been using the Z at 40 w and getting great results. Maybe takes 5-6 hits to cash out a bowl, but I'm sure if I tinker with the wattage and cash it out quicker, but this seems like a good balance for me, as I like to check the weed color after every hit. I also take long slow draws, so this works well.

 

[bossman]

Just spreading some love for these custom stems from @Vlad the Inhaler. The larger interior diameter creates a nice open draw and the vigreux dimple patten provides really good cooling.

 

[tokenknifeguy]

So lately I've been using the Z with my tubo firmware that I have for my tetrax. I had to put my Z in my other box mod to see what the ohms, which was .4 for my Z. So that was the only thing I changed on my tubo settings was the ohms and now the Z works very well with the tubo firmware. I use the nubbler for it too and works great for that long slower draw.

 

[invertedisdead]

Very cool to see a proper Vigereux condenser pattern used instead of the basic dimpled ones, there’s much more surface area on a Vigereux orientation than the standard simple spikes.

 

[bossman]

CIVILIZED

 

[Spelaeus]

Well, I'm feeling like a complete doofus. I've been trying to repair a broken Z V2 I've had lying around so my girlfriend can have her own unit. Finally got everything together after multiple botched jobs trying to cut the internal glass to size (after trying a bunch of different glass cutting techniques, ultimately a diamond cutoff disk on a rotary tool worked well).

Now that I finally have a glass joint cut to size to replace the internal class and have adhesive and everything ready to go, I find I've managed to misplace the internal screen I had a kicking around. Would anybody have any recommendations on where to source a replacement for the internal screen?

 

[MikeRotchHertz]

Well, I'm feeling like a complete doofus. I've been trying to repair a broken Z V2 I've had lying around so my girlfriend can have her own unit. Finally got everything together after multiple botched jobs trying to cut the internal glass to size (after trying a bunch of different glass cutting techniques, ultimately a diamond cutoff disk on a rotary tool worked well).

Now that I finally have a glass joint cut to size to replace the internal class and have adhesive and everything ready to go, I find I've managed to misplace the internal screen I had a kicking around. Would anybody have any recommendations on where to source a replacement for the internal screen?

I may have an extra I believe from a broken unit. Pm me and I'll mail it out to you.

 

[Bluedawn]

Does anyone have advise for me? I want to fix the broken glass on my Splinter v2. I’m told the stems are 19/22 (mine has the smoke colored glass). So will the female 19/22 glass from a third party source like Mountain Glass work if cut and adhered? Has anyone actually done this and had success?

 

[MikeRotchHertz]

Does anyone have advise for me? I want to fix the broken glass on my Splinter v2. I’m told the stems are 19/22 (mine has the smoke colored glass). So will the female 19/22 glass from a third party source like Mountain Glass work if cut and adhered? Has anyone actually done this and had success?

I have for a good number of units with the mountain glass Pm me and I can help talk you through it.