Discontinued RBT Splinter (All Versions)

Shit Snacks

Shit Snacks

Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
Dargin B said:
Yes, the tapered mouthpiece...well no wonder I couldn't get it flowing.
Click to expand...

Yeah it's not ground glass and it's not the right size, so that was a deceptive false connection lol You can try using tape or silicone to create a seal though, but probably better to just get a Delta3Dstudios SonG adapter... Oregon glass blower can make you a custom adapter in 19/22 size too.
 
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arb

arb

Semi shaved ape
Where is the measurement measured from on the joint,the lip at the base on the exterior?
 
arb,
RustyOldNail

RustyOldNail

SEARCH for the treasure...
Too bad my April post in the new forum in April, with photos and measurements of the joints can’t be found, probably when all the RBT threads were merged. Not doing all that work again....
 
RustyOldNail,
Shit Snacks

Shit Snacks

Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
arb said:
Where is the measurement measured from on the joint,the lip at the base on the exterior?
Click to expand...

I don't really understand what you're asking

RustyOldNail said:
Too bad my April post in the new forum in April, with photos and measurements of the joints can’t be found, probably when all the RBT threads were merged. Not doing all that work again....
Click to expand...

It should be here, this is the thread from new FC...
 
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arb

arb

Semi shaved ape
If the joint is 19x19 for example one is width the other is depth.
Measuring depth from the end\top do I measure down the outside to where the base of the joint forms a clear lip?
 
Shit Snacks

Shit Snacks

Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
arb said:
If the joint is 19x19 for example one is width the other is depth.
Measuring depth from the end\top do I measure down the outside to where the base of the joint forms a clear lip?
Click to expand...

Ah, so just measuring the joint!

I never really measure them myself, I would think you would just measure it on the outside, defrosted ground glass part?

What I do, is I take a stem that I know is 19/19 that came with it and fits, then I can compare any other stem to that to make sure of fit... I have examples for 19/22 as well, there's always variance in the glass.
 
Dargin B

Dargin B

Well-Known Member
@Shit Snacks thanks for the leads. I e-mailed Oregon and I have the Delta universal WPA (it's too clumsy of a fit for me). I do 90% of my vaping through water currently and would love for this to replace the TM I can't reassemble.. haha.
 
okc0mputer

okc0mputer

Well-Known Member
My splinter tipped over on my desk and the glass popped out of the wood shell, is that something I can fix? Theres just some type of glue residue on the outside edge of the glass, does anyone know what type of glues safe to use on that?
 
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badbee

badbee

Well-Known Member
okc0mputer said:
My splinter tipped over on my desk and the glass popped out of the wood shell, is that something I can fix? Theres just some type of glue residue on the outside edge of the glass, does anyone know what type of glues safe to use on that?
Click to expand...

It is a Loctite® M-121HP™ Hysol® Medical Device Epoxy Adhesive (ISO 10993) (I pulled this from the old closed Splinter thread) but it doesn't really matter because it's only available in wholesale quantities. @khelek41girl has, or had, some role in repairing Splinters, she may be able to fix it for you or at least provide advice.
 
arb

arb

Semi shaved ape
Shit Snacks said:
Ah, so just measuring the joint!

I never really measure them myself, I would think you would just measure it on the outside, defrosted ground glass part?

What I do, is I take a stem that I know is 19/19 that came with it and fits, then I can compare any other stem to that to make sure of fit... I have examples for 19/22 as well, there's always variance in the glass.
Click to expand...
IMG_20200715_164717.jpg
Seems I have a wet diamond saw so I can make what ever it takes.
🛠
 
xer0

xer0

Well-Known Member


Earlier this year I picked up a Splinter Z. I had gotten reacquainted with my OG Milaana and was loving the vapor I was getting off of it so I looked RBT up and saw that he was selling these with the Zion heater. I had a preorder in for Zion that I had to back out of which I still regret to this day. Needless to say I had to try this heater finally. My goal was to get temp control as consistent as possible. I can't say that the temps are 100% accurate but that wasn't my primary goal. The goal was to have 420 degrees be my "high temp" flower vaping setting. Once I got it dialed in perfectly for that I started playing with bumping the temp up to find the sweet spot for concentrates. 500 degrees gave me the concentrate experience I was looking for so I stopped there. This is the best concentrate experience I have ever had with a flower vape. Its dab-like. I was a staunch e-nail/Flowerpot user for years. The Z has replaced that setup and I have not looked back once. My only regret is that I didn't get one sooner.

I made the first video above after seeing that Ryan announced the end of this current line. I had been wanting to make a video showing off what this thing can do and after seeing that I felt that now was the time. The second video I wanted to show just how consistent this heater is. The PI-Regulator is a pain in the ass to get set just right but totally worth the effort.
 
RustyOldNail

RustyOldNail

SEARCH for the treasure...
xer0 said:


Earlier this year I picked up a Splinter Z. I had gotten reacquainted with my OG Milaana and was loving the vapor I was getting off of it so I looked RBT up and saw that he was selling these with the Zion heater. I had a preorder in for Zion that I had to back out of which I still regret to this day. Needless to say I had to try this heater finally. My goal was to get temp control as consistent as possible. I can't say that the temps are 100% accurate but that wasn't my primary goal. The goal was to have 420 degrees be my "high temp" flower vaping setting. Once I got it dialed in perfectly for that I started playing with bumping the temp up to find the sweet spot for concentrates. 500 degrees gave me the concentrate experience I was looking for so I stopped there. This is the best concentrate experience I have ever had with a flower vape. Its dab-like. I was a staunch e-nail/Flowerpot user for years. The Z has replaced that setup and I have not looked back once. My only regret is that I didn't get one sooner.

I made the first video above after seeing that Ryan announced the end of this current line. I had been wanting to make a video showing off what this thing can do and after seeing that I felt that now was the time. The second video I wanted to show just how consistent this heater is. The PI-Regulator is a pain in the ass to get set just right but totally worth the effort.
Click to expand...

Nice job on the split screen showing the Escribe live screen. What TCR value did you find working for the “Z”?
Thanks
 
S

Sticky13

Well-Known Member
@xer0 The Zee is a beast eh :brow: ..

I adore the Zee, im building a DNA250c 12v vape station :p .. Fire on a toggle, for cruise & atomiser on a braid, get that heavy mod off the glass.
 
Last edited:
xer0

xer0

Well-Known Member
RustyOldNail said:
Nice job on the split screen showing the Escribe live screen. What TCR value did you find working for the “Z”?
Thanks
Click to expand...

Thank you. On the Wismec I use 160 but I have found that the mod has some factor here. For example I have an eleaf iStick Power and with the exact same settings the vapor is much hotter than the Wismec. Like one hit char hot. I needed to drop the TCR 7 points on the eleaf to get the same experience as the Wismec.

Stickyblack said:
@xer0 The Zee is a beast eh :brow: ..

I adore the Zee, im building a DNA250c 12v vape station :p .. Fire on a toggle, for cruise & atomiser on a braid, get that heavy mod off the glass.
Click to expand...

It is fucking incredible. :nod:

The toggle fire alone makes me intrigued! I need to get in on that open source thread.

MikeRotchHertz said:
Care to share your settings? I only use wattage mode but I'd love to get my Z dialed in on another mod to get the most out of it.
Click to expand...

Absolutely...




I actually have the RX2 21700 but Arctic Fox labels it the 20700 for some reason. I have found that these settings transfer perfectly over to another RX2 21700 (I have 3). Like I said above when I moved the Z over to my eleaf I did end up having to drop the TCR down to 153. Thankfully the PI-Regulator settings did not have to be adjusted. This eleaf has god awful temp control and with these PI-R settings enabled it became much more consistent. Like night and day. From unusable garbage to actually being a decent vape. Its not 100% as consistent as the Wismec but with the massive improvement I believe these settings should be good if your chip has decent TC and if your heater's ohm rating is similar to mine. The only thing left I need to test is how they work with other Z's. I only have the v2 right now but I have a Bubinga US custom on the way so I will be testing that soon. My assumption is that if the ohms are significantly off that some tweaking will be necessary.
 
Jayvape

Jayvape

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Jayvape,
MikeRotchHertz

MikeRotchHertz

Well-Known Member
Mine did that after I heated it up to remove the glass. I believe it is some kind of clear coat to seal the wood. Mine looked like that and stayed on the outside (didn't wipe off). I ended up sanding mine down and treating the wood again.
 
MikeRotchHertz,
pakalolo

pakalolo

Toolbag v1.1 (candidate)
Staff member
Jayvape said:
https://imgur.com/SY6XiBU

https://imgur.com/a/ewjEk2x

https://imgur.com/Pj9m4pR

https://imgur.com/pXJinnn

Does anyone know what these drops are on my splinter z v2? It must've happened while I was using it, it was dark so I didn't notice till after I already had a stem. It looks like moisture coming out of cracks in the wood. I tried scraping it smooth but it looked like " wood powder" ( idk what else to call it) was coming off.
Click to expand...

This is sap that is released when the Splinter gets too hot. You can remove it by rubbing or scraping with something soft that won't mark the wood. You don't need to sand it, although that will work too. I used a plastic scraper. It's not anything added to the wood nor is it harmful.
 
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