stickstones
Vapor concierge
nah...I hit it just like you...even sneak in a couple of little breaths through my nose during the draw.
Wow. I hope Tom can provide some input here. I have mine set on a timer, not on 24/7, so if what you say is correct, than mine really "may" have been ok.captainhits said:After several days of my PD being on 24/7, the heat issue has gone away. It went from almost scorching the herb (not the crossbar, this when the herb is tamped below the rim) in the first 24-48 hours to now a nice dark honey color even when drawing quickly. I can't say why but the excessive heat seemed to be coming from the resistor as it was only in that spot that the uneven heating occured. I can only speculate, but maybe the resistor has a 'burnoff' period so to speak, even if it were only to raise the temp slightly it might be enough to cause the uneven 'scorch'. I think I offended Tom with my brainstorms and ideas on improvement, but hopefully he understands that discussion about design and improvements is what the forum is about and certainly not intended to offend. I still haven't had the chance to give my car adapter a good true test so I'm hoping it will be fine once I do and the issue was just the initial excessive heatup. So, to sum things up my PD is giving off the correct heat now and I love it!
Also, something I noticed that may have played a part is that when it sits unused for awhile, the first hit is noticably hotter. That together with the initial heat up may have been what I was experiencing.
To answer your question per Tom's email to me he does not believe there is a burn in period, but this was my experience.lwien said:Wow. I hope Tom can provide some input here. I have mine set on a timer, not on 24/7, so if what you say is correct, than mine really "may" have been ok.captainhits said:After several days of my PD being on 24/7, the heat issue has gone away. It went from almost scorching the herb (not the crossbar, this when the herb is tamped below the rim) in the first 24-48 hours to now a nice dark honey color even when drawing quickly. I can't say why but the excessive heat seemed to be coming from the resistor as it was only in that spot that the uneven heating occured. I can only speculate, but maybe the resistor has a 'burnoff' period so to speak, even if it were only to raise the temp slightly it might be enough to cause the uneven 'scorch'. I think I offended Tom with my brainstorms and ideas on improvement, but hopefully he understands that discussion about design and improvements is what the forum is about and certainly not intended to offend. I still haven't had the chance to give my car adapter a good true test so I'm hoping it will be fine once I do and the issue was just the initial excessive heatup. So, to sum things up my PD is giving off the correct heat now and I love it!
Also, something I noticed that may have played a part is that when it sits unused for awhile, the first hit is noticably hotter. That together with the initial heat up may have been what I was experiencing.
Tom, does this 24/7 burn in really result in the temp leveling off to the correct vape temp? This has never been reported before.
Not me. I used the "suck" method. Never loaded the stem by hand.KeepCalm said:I think you were overpacking the bowl.
Same herelwien said:Not me. I used the "suck" method. Never loaded the stem by hand.KeepCalm said:I think you were overpacking the bowl.
From what Lwein described he was experiencing the same thing as me, dark uneven heat spots. Be interesting to find out.Purple-Days said:Line Voltage > AC to Ac Transformer > Resistor > User
While line voltage may vary it doesn't do so by much. The AC to AC transformer works on simple induction and a static ratio... and will not change. The resistor is also a fixed item and does not change... No engineer says, "Hmmm, better count on that resistor changing, you know how they are, lets put a different value than we actually want in, so in a day or two it will be right..."
There is NO "burn-in period", you are the only person to ever perceive such a thing. Physics are pretty stable here at sea level.
Voltage > Resistance > Wattage > Btu (heat output)
Change any of those and the other values will change. When they all remain the same, what has changed?
User experience, User technique, User perception.
:/
lwien has an entirely different situation. Hoping that it's his package at the Post today. That or it's Pammy's fuschias from Washington.
Good thought I will try it in someone elses car to be suremax said:I'd suspect the car adapter (or even the voltage supplied to the adapter) before the PD, since it works OK inside.
Vaporizer Giant? Nothing special as a dealer, but they're OK. They do get a demerit for even selling the conduction dome units. :/Then I made the mistake of ordering from VG and got one of the globe units... bleh,
You'll have to forgive us for being novices in electronics but it sounds like nu2vape only had his 1 night and the same for myself only a day or so, mine definitely without any distress to the cords. I will await your professional conclusion as to the problem with mine.Purple-Days said:The transformer is a simple AC to AC induction transformer and is UL LIsted. The chances of the transformer itself going bad are remote. Busted cords and broken plugs are the common problem. Setting the unit down on the plug seems to be the most common trouble. Dropping the unit and hitting the end of the cord like a hangman will stress the cord too. Tripping over the cord or rolling over it with a chair...
Bottom line is, broken cords and power plugs aren't covered due to the nature of the way they can be handled. Some folks keep the same power supply for years, some can destroy the plug in minutes. No way to predict which you will be.
The good news is, the adapters are easy to get. While the one we supply is AC to AC you can use 12 Volts DC just as well. Use a 1000mA supply (or greater) and a Type M power plug, 2.1mm x 5.5mm (center positive or negative).
The bulk of your cord should still be good and likely it's just the plug that is broken. In that case Radio Shack can supply a raw type M plug that you can solder onto the remaining wire.
Other options include replacing the supply with the original, from Jameco (part #10081) or getting a replacement from us, or taking the DC specs and getting a DC supply from an electronics supply.
It's the reason we made it 12V. If you ever need new power, you don't really need us.
Same holds true for broken car adapters. Readily available. No need to go to the mfg. just get one at Radio Shack.