Discontinued Purple-Days Vaporizer

[Purple-Days]

I only own the one gouge and one skew chisel. Lots of other turning tools available but for what I do they are the only two needed. Sorby tools out of Sheffield England.

The surgical clamps (hemostats) are used for the wiring. The straights for holding the heater harnesses during soldering, the curved ones are for grabing and twisting the wires down in the PD. Those clips are installed with the red handled tool. I don't show the 'tools not intended for...' such as the one used to jig the crossbar hole. Drilling a tiny hole in heavy walled 3/8" stainless tube can be a trick.

Wood is a natural thing. Wood is always defective in some way, one of those slabs has a pretty hefty section of unusable material, but that's the way wood is. As a woodworker I expect about 20% waste. If I order 50 bf I expect to get 40 usable. Usually I get more, but would never bitch, even if I have a solid 20% that ends up in the fireplace. That's just something you have to accept with wood. It ain't an aluminum billet...

Where is Waldo? You might think Waldo was the one with the untrimmed bottom plug. The one in the front, 3rd from the left. That plug gets cut flush on the chop saw. Then leather glued over and clamped up. After it dries it gets trimmed with scissors then all the hand sanding begins.

But really Waldo is over to the left. Yes, that is the old cherry demolition unit. I noticed it after I took the pic. For those that like darker wood, this is what Cherry becomes with age. Much darker isn't it?

 

[Progress]

Hello Tom!

It is so cool that you are so passionate about what you do.

I really like what appears to be a carved PD in the center of the picture in this post ( http://www.fuckcombustion.com/viewtopic.php?pid=28719#p28719 ).

The buzz butter we made came out with a similar consistency as the 'real deal' Buzz Butter, but is a bit more yellow (like actual butter).

The bees wax we used was white, non-chlorine, pharmaceutical-grade stuff.

The flax seed oil was definitely more golden than the wax (unfiltered stuff from the cold section of a whole foods market).

Maybe that caused the darker colored results (or possibly that we used slightly more wax than flax)?

We heated a crockpot full of water on the warm setting, and then placed a crockpot liner with 2.2 lbs of beeswax in the hot water. Once the beeswax melted to a liquid, we added two, 16 oz bottles of pre-warmed flax seed oil, mixed the two together evenly, and tempered till cool/fluffy.

We also like the batch we made with 2 drops of beet coloring, but not for the slatherings we have recently been giving all but one PD.

We didn't use the rosemary extract (didn't have any and got advice that it is OK without), but we keep the applesauce jar full of our wax/polish in the fridge.

 

[Purple-Days]

We do our's in a crock pot too, but go direct, no water bath. The crock is dedicated to Buzz-Butter (I don't like crock pot food anyway).

32 oz of bee's wax and 40 oz of oil. Not critical proportions. Anywhere around 50:50.

I have seen portions of bee's wax as small as 1oz at sewing shops. Any salad oil will work. Easy for anybody to make.

The 'carved' unit, was just something different to do. It even has a four hole heat exchanger. Just an experiment. Just for fun.

 

[nysuperscum]

anyone??

HmmmSadly Im not getting this from my PD

It almost seems like my PD isnt getting hot enough and after doing some experimentation Im beginning to wonder if its my power pack. I am using some older 12v 1amp power packs I had kicking around the house and seem to get different results with each one ( no vapour, coming out green to visible vapour but very, very light browning)!

Even when using my good power pack (I get visible vapour when using this one) and have hit the herb 3+ times it still comes out fairly green, compared to my Vriptech setup which browns the herb. I am getting hits from the PD (not huge clouds) but they dont seem as devastating as the VriptechThe high almost seems to be more of a head high like a good sativa but wears off quickly (same herb in the Vriptech hammers you!)

Can power packs die over time and not deliver enough juice? My PD is on all the time so it should be well and truly heated

My technique in case Im doing something wrong

I leave a couple of nuggs out overnight, close to my cabinets exhaust fan, to dry them outIn the morning I hit them with a wooden grinder then spread the ground bud on a magazine to further dry during the day. That evening when Im back from work I hit the bud with some scissors and reduce to a very fine mix I pack a PD tub using the stab method, making sure its not packed to tightly and place into the PD to pre-heat. After about 10 seconds of pre-heat I start a very slow draw, increasing suction after a couple of seconds until I hear a slow whistle.

I've had similar issues, and exchanged some emails with Tom and Pam about it - As long as the PD is getting power, it will do its job. I was extra-vexed because both my wall and car chargers stopped heating enough at about the same time- what are the odds of that? In my case, I bought a 1.5A/12V plug from Radio Shack and it works fine again - (everyone says get the 1.0A/12V but that didn't seem to work properly on mine and 1.5A does the trick nicely). Tom had said the other possibility was the pin inside the female receptacle on the PD may have come loose.... I'm keeping an eye on it but I'm very happy to have NOT had to send my PD in yet.

Hope that helps

 

[Purple-Days]

Another video. Hope you all enjoy. It's the Stainless Steel Heat Exchanger.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8tUSlwt4_8M

 

[Beezleb]

If someone doesnt have some form of respect for the PD after watching these videos, Fuck em!

 

[Hennessy1414]

"no lead in this vape, none at all"

Thank you for going above and beyond with those vids. You just keep making this better and better dont ya

What a rugged process...much respect.




EDIT//////// Indeed a merging of ALL those videos is a must have for the first posting in this thread

 

[kalinga]

Another excellent vid Tom! Hope to see more!

It clearly shows that a lot of care and attention-to-detail went into each PD.

Now regarding the heat exchanger, what's the brown looking capsule inside
the heat tube. It looks like it has a wire attached to it.

 

[digglover]

Tom that is amazing.

I was really waiting for the heat exchanger video as it interested me for whatever reason and I'm amazed.

 

[lwien]

Ya know what would be great, Tom? If you could compile all these vids in one post and make it a sticky in the first post of this thread. I don't know if you can make a sticky post within a thread, but if it can be done, me thinks it may be a good idea, no? Potential buyers would love to see this (fuck, there I go again....... )

 

[Purple-Days]

Thanks everybody. it means a lot to hear it from you all.

Kalinga that is a RoHS compliant power resistor by Ohmite. Ceramic. It's the heat source. RoHS compliant means Lead-Free. I had our resistor and power jack and solder and hook-up wire laying out in the last clip of that vid, (forgot to mention them) all also RoHS compliant. We won't use anything that isn't, never have.

 

[Reverend]

Wow that Heat Exchanger video was real cool, thank's for sharing it!

 

[slip]

yeah, that was awesome, tom. thanks so much for posting that.

 

[stickstones]

Tom...great vid! Of course, it left me with a few questions...I was hoping to see the fins on the heat exchanger...is that a secret?

I knew we had more in common than just a love for herb and the PD...I picked up SRV's Little Wing in the background...one of my favorites. And was that Charlie Brown playing as well?

You've really opened up a can or worms here, as we all now want to see the unabridged four hour version of how to make a PD!

Thanks!

 

[darcey]

I've had similar issues, and exchanged some emails with Tom and Pam about it - As long as the PD is getting power, it will do its job. I was extra-vexed because both my wall and car chargers stopped heating enough at about the same time- what are the odds of that? In my case, I bought a 1.5A/12V plug from Radio Shack and it works fine again - (everyone says get the 1.0A/12V but that didn't seem to work properly on mine and 1.5A does the trick nicely). Tom had said the other possibility was the pin inside the female receptacle on the PD may have come loose.... I'm keeping an eye on it but I'm very happy to have NOT had to send my PD in yet.

Hope that helps

Thanks very much for the info nysuperscum...been in touch with Pammy/Tom and we have narrowed it down to my power pack Tested with the Car adapter socket over the weekend and had my first "real, full powered" PD hit...WOO HOO this little unit rocks! Off to the store today to get a new power pack!

 

[Chubba]

Good stuff Darcey, I'm glad it was a shitty power supply

The unit can definitely blow clouds, have a few more sessions then report back with VHW comparison again, very interested in what you have to say.

 

[Purple-Days]

Great that Pammy was able to help, Darcey. Most troubleshooting is pretty easy. But sometimes there is a tough one. The car adapter really helps narrow things down. The LED says. "power on", and that cord and plug are pretty "heavy duty", Judy.

I listen to a range of music. Yes, SRV or Jimi... both versions are on the i-pod. And right again (almost), except I think Schroeder??? was the little piano player's name (not sure, but not Charles Brown... haha), anyway that is Vince Gauraldi a piano magician, it's a sorta interesting story how he came to be the Peanut's music man. Look

We should do a 'name the tunes' non-contest. Like name the one before that Peanut's tune, one of my favorites obviously. BTW the Gauraldi tune is 'Linus and Lucy'. Pammy has the sheet music (a small book of it) and loves to struggle and cuss Vince. It's impossible as written, even harder the way he plays it, there are little things not on the paper...

Speaking of hidden stuff for now the fins remain under the hood. 72 fins, and made of 316 stainless, I promise. They really are there with intent.

You can imagine a car radiator without fins? Not really, can you? A heat sink on an amp or circuit board without fins? A 59 Caddy without fins? Just kidding... But you may see the reason, heat transfer. That's why I call it a heat exchanger and not a heat port. A big improvement. It really was designed as a heat exchanger. It gives the heat up, yet recovers quickly. Hard to explain, but easy to understand if you see it in person... I will show and explain to any who want to stop in for the July 4th, annual Purple-Days Picnic and PD Family Re-Union or any other time... Watch out though, I'll put you to work. tanstafl,
That vid clip didn't work...

 

[lwien]

Can't view the vid above, Tom. This is the message I got.

"This video has been removed because it is too long. Regular YouTube videos must be 10 minutes or less."

 

[Purple-Days]

OK, You Tube two segments. This next segment is on the final assembly, sanding and finish of the PD. Long segments 'cause it's a long process.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MBnG5VdBPQk
part1

 

[Purple-Days]

Here's the second half.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vao7772cvhw

 

[stickstones]

Cool Tom. Did you drop the HE into the top of the wood? I thought you would have put it in from the bottom.

 

[digglover]

You mention the stealth unit with no logo...

Are the paisley bottom units typically no logo too or was it just coincidental that mine doesn't have a logo?

 

[lwien]

You mention the stealth unit with no logo...

Are the paisley bottom units typically no logo too ........?

Yup.

 

[Purple-Days]

Yes, Sticks, the Heat Exchanger goes in from the top. The center of the PD is solid wood with just the two small holes going down to the bottom cavity. The plated spring steel clip sandwiches the HE in place.

Digglover, the Paisley units are No Logo units. The Purple Units are Logo units. This one was for a friend of the family, custom.

 

[Qbit]

Hi all, I an Australian who's curious about the PD.

It looks fantastic for the most part, but I have a couple of concerns. One, the warm-up time, is obviously something you can't really do anything about, but the other, not having a heat-adjustment dial, would annoy me. It's not that I doubt that it's set at a good temperature, but it's just something I like to have control over.

So, since I'd be providing the foreign power source and wouldn't be officially covered by the warranty anyway, I had a thought. If I got myself a higher voltage power source (say 13.5v or 15v) and added a voltage adjustment dial thingy to the circuit (which I would obviously turn down to an appropriate setting), then that might do the trick. This would be particularly good if I wanted to power it from a battery pack for portable purposes, as batteries tend to provide unreliable voltages, especially as they lose charge (someone was metioning this in a recent post in this thread).

Any thoughts anyone? Tom - you might have a view to offer.