Sorry this is so long… (don’t want any more multiple post lectures
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@
VapeWeeed - That really sucks, I am so sorry this happened to you! Did you do this when your unit was warm or cold? Reason for asking is your PES PonG looks fractured, not melted. You state you haven’t cleaned this and it shows! So was your unit stuck in goo? Someone long ago (sorry, before I tried to pay attention to author names) mentioned getting theirs stuck and broken due to being glued by the goo, and recommended if this happens to warm the unit a bit before trying to remove a stuck PonG…
Regarding PES, I finally decided to see what mother Google had to say about Polyethersulfone. Here is an excellent reference by some lads at Mitsui Chemicals, Inc. (
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&frm=1&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&ved=0CCYQFjAA&url=http://bdml.stanford.edu/twiki/pub/Haptics/MaterialSelection/Polyethersulfone_PES.pdf&ei=PsITU53XPImHogT9xYDYDg&usg=AFQjCNGWIEmtyp_0XtYGfVOBF944LQNV2w&bvm=bv.61965928,d.cGU) about it. There are several grades of PES, but almost all start to give out at 180C (356F - glass transition temperature) and all plots stop at 200C (392F). This temperature is less than setting 2!!! I gave up my MP permanently this past week due to what I show below. The MP funnels the vape & heat to the tip. As you can see, my tip center is rounded, smooth, a bit chipped looking, but definitely not the same color it was when new. @
TherealVaporblunt – I will be happy to send this to you. Please message me a RMA# for reference. So folks, I too am officially on the GonG wagon, re-reading all your posts to do something temporary until TRVB has something real…
So to bring a bit more cheer to the forum, the BarnBoy has another Ghetto-toolz he wants to share with you all. This one is largely in thanks to @
Sativape for inspiration/innovation. In the photo below, I am taking a stack of x8 AA Alkaline batteries and feeding that voltage to my Proto1 Car Charger using a female auto port. This is in turn operating the PNP on setting 3. This is going to be a big saver for long hikes/skiing or long periods w/o power. Though my buddies are laughing and telling me, “wouldn’t a match be lighter to pack”…
It works on the D cells (stack of x8 shown), but will charge only with a 9V battery. This is largely due to the voltage input allowed by the Proto1 DC-DC. Proto2 Car Charger should remove this limit (coming soon!). Thus this topology could be used for NiMH or any other kind of battery technology…
@
MileHighLife Please keep us informed about your FastTech device you posted
Pinnacle Pro. Of all the devices posted, this is the only commercial device I have seen that should work just fine with the power demands of the PNP. Just set the bugger to 5.5V and you should be good to go out that 5.5mm connector (measure voltage first!).
So you all can do your own proto chargers all you need is a DC-DC converter that can do at least 3A (2.5A min). Your voltage should be nominally set to 5.5V and able to handle pulses of 2.1A. Here is how my PNP behaves…
4.4-5.2V => Charge only. And even then anything less than 4.8V didn't show charge current levels like it was really charging. Charge current is approx 0.82amps...
5.3-5/5.7V => Operation/Charge. Peak current is 2.1Amps and pulses between a nominal 1.1Amps (or less!) and the 2.1Amp level as the device controls the heater temperature. Higher voltages will give slightly higher currents.
If lower than 4.3V, system has a single yellow like color led rising. If attempting operating in Charge range, unit will error with similar error. Typically post error, unit will go back to Charge mode...
A current limited supply will act like you are plugging in/out the power plug about once a second due to how power supply protect in over current. Eventually the PNP will error or just not heat...
If above 5.8V then unit will have a single orange/red like color rising. I didn't wait long to see if it stopped, and pulled the plug...
When the PNP is idle (fully charged), it still consumes 0.5A of current…
It looks like the PNP has basic power supply protection to protect itself. I was not going to test reverse voltage. There is a CE stamp, so if TRVB tested it to the CE standards, then someone gave it the royal scrutinizer for electrical emissions and safety...
Cheers,
-BB