Phase3 Vaporizers

[arb]

Interesting that you have observed similar! It's weird though because quartz has one of the lowest coefficients of thermal expansion, that's what makes it more durable for thermal cycling over borosilicate. Sapphire has a greater CTE, I did wonder if using sapphire inside could have stressed the quartz housing, but hard to say for sure. As you note it could have been a manufacturing flaw as well. I loaded up another SCVW with rubies yesterday and it worked fine. On the one that broke, I did just change the screen to a new one right before use, I wonder if I just compressed the beads too much, I wouldn't think so but maybe it is possible!

Great to hear you have some progress on your glass logs, when can we order one of those bad boys I bet most people reading this thread are tired of waiting for mine



Wouldn't it be preferable to put the thermocouple directly in the airstream though to truly pull an accurate reading? I would expect a closed end tube would store heat and change the reading. Isn't this the issue, the balance between superior thermodynamics versus purity which creates contradictive design choices? For example, a glass convection heater is kind of obscure to begin with, an average engineer would ask why I don't just use aluminum.

One thing I'd like to see is better utilization of the thermocouple already in the XLR coil. I feel like a low mass, high conductivity evaporator design could better accomplish this by achieving quicker reaction time and reduce much of the system lag involved when heating insulative materials. I've considered technical ceramics to achieve this, though dissimilar Mohs is an issue . One of the big benefits I felt to my sapphire addition to the ball concept was it allowed one to easily use this dissimilar material in a non abrasive way. Harder to make a full sapphire heater interface with a glass bowl.

I did consider a tube stack type design, I posted a rendering of it on one of these pages. That was actually my first desktop design which was really just based on when I was trying to get Ed @ Newvape to build a glass or ceramic flowerpot. But since the Deskpod is pretty much using this design I am looking to go in a different direction.

One concept I'm toying with right now is a modified quartz joint using four spaced out vortex diffuser discs. This is based on a convection oven, the idea is the spaced out discs create three small ovens that the air is spun through for heating. I was thinking of moving to something like this anyways for the top and bottom air inlet/exit, then I figured I could remove the beads and put a few more diffuser discs in and it would probably work well too. The goal being to get a nice homogenous air temperature at the bowl, and good diffusion across it, instead of such a "top down" heat. This one might be too complicated to build though. Even with a single thicker torched disc I was able to produce nice clean vapor, so I believe some modifications could produce a nice desktop heater.



If I'm understanding correctly, I think what you describe is sort of how the Flowerpot functions.



You could use a heating coil wrapped around some other high surface area, conductive heat exchanging medium. I think that's how the Tafee Bowle heater works but not sure on that one.



I agree that increased regulation is right around the corner, and it will be positioned as finally being less restricted too, probably if they ever pull from schedule 1 they will lock down the supply chain just as they are doing right now with vape mail.

My idea is to produce a single heater component so that the rest of the parts can be easily open sourced - as they all belong to other industries there is nothing really exclusive besides the heater head. As the goal posts shift, the needs of this part could change too. If regulations get worse, (and I've no reason to see why they won't) selling anything made of glass might be rough, and I might very well need to change materials to something more durable, as replacement parts might be too unpredictable. Everything else is open source, so replacements aren't a big deal.
If we have to resort to plan Z it might be a ceramic head, with a modified thru hole design, that works with off the shelf glass adapters. And trufully, the thru-hole heater design goes back way further than the FP, really the Volcano is the first one that comes to mind to use such a design, then the HerbalAire with its 18 jets.



Do you have it on autofire, or cruise, or are you doing a pre-fire first to store it with heat?

Just straight wattage press,repress then hit while holding and let go a couple seconds before done drawing to get the heat out.

 

[Shadooz]

@invertedisdead as you seems good to find craftmen, finding one to make a ceramic heat sink base would be awesome (faster heatup, less loss ..)

Just a really thick ceramic mug, with a perfect fit and a hole for laying the handle

 

[invertedisdead]

Just a really thick ceramic mug, with a perfect fit and a hole for laying the handle

I was thinking about doing a stand for this vape and maybe the Elev8r, I called it “the garage”
it was just a piece of quartz tubing with a flared foot/base, and two saw cuts on top, to make four slots where the enail handle could rest on, like +
then there would be no exposed hot parts when idling, and you would only be exposed to the coil during actual use.

 

[Shadooz]

it was just a piece of quartz

Ceramic, just the perfect material.

Cheaper, less conduction...
I see something like an half open oven

 

[invertedisdead]

An interesting observation: last night I loaded a housing with 6MM sapphires, I've been playing around again and wanted to compare the airflow to my 3MM and 4MM setups. I knew the draw would be more open, but unexpectedly, I'm really impressed with the AVB. Despite having much less heated surface area than the 3MM setup, because there is also less pressure drop, I think I'm actually developing a more turbulent flow, since it is now easier to inhale.

So here's a prototype rendering for a 16MM low mass, high flow, high surface area "fly by wire" desktop design.

 

[Shadooz]

I'm really impressed with the AVB. Despite having much less heated surface area than the 3MM setup, because there is also less pressure drop, I think I'm actually developing a more turbulent flow, since it is now easier to inhale.

I think it's mostly due to a more regular flow in time.
Less area = less initial loss
but u will have to go higher temp or draw for longer, no ?

the abv must be more even, but i prefer a bit of restriction. If u can inhale 2 sec more it will end with more weight extraction

 

[invertedisdead]

And just to talk a little more about the concept of this heater, which is based on a heat sink, and very different from my current model. But the idea would be to utilize low mass, low density, and high conductivity for fast responsiveness. To make the "heat sink" as "invisible" as possible, as if the controller is only heating the coil. This would allow for quick heatup, so the exposed coil wouldn't be as big of a concern with a quick start, as it wouldn't need to be powered on all day as there is no major heat soaking to deal with. This also would allow for easy temperature stepping, which can be a bit of a drudge on many desktops due to slow response time. It would be designed to run off-the-shelf components for easy worldwide compability. Ideally, it would be made from a very durable ceramic, reducing the "consumables."

I think it's mostly due to a more regular flow in time.
Less area = less initial loss
but u will have to go higher temp or draw for longer, no ?

the abv must be more even, but i prefer a bit of restriction. If u can inhale 2 sec more it will end with more weight extraction

The flow rate does seem more balanced, or, easier to balance from less resistance.

Yes the coil temperature is turned up a bit higher with 6MM sapphires installed, I'm finding myself using 500-525F. For whatever reason, the vapor feels noticeably smoother, but I need to try it for more time to be sure. I just tried 550F and it came out a little dark for my liking, so I'm backing it down a bit. That's for a one hit extraction. According to my scale, one 6MM sapphire = ~ eight 3MM sapphires.

 

[DRCousCous]

Ideally, it would be made from a very durable ceramic, reducing the "consumables."

I know you've looked at, pretty much, all glasses and corundums for your materials. Have you considered Silicon Nitride ceramic? It is very inexpensive (comparatively speaking), easy to manufacture (apparently), and has similar thermal properties (I think) to corundum. Is it too much an insulator for your current "high responsiveness" heater material? I have to admit, other than some cursory knowledge of carbon nanostructures (due to a collaborative science project ages ago) and vapor deposition, I have almost no knowledge of material science.

If that isn't the way you're thinking, is there another largely-inert ceramic (Si3N4 also has a nice quality of being perceived as "safe" due to its use in human medicine already) that would have the thermal properties you're looking for? I'm trying to shift thinking from "high density/mass" to "high thermal charge/discharge." I guess what you're looking for is something that acts more like a thermal capacitor than a thermal battery?

edit: as in some other cases... are mass and density inversely correlated with thermal "responsiveness" (in terms of how much thermal energy a material can absorb or "discharge")?

 

[Abysmal Vapor]

@invertedisdead Have you thought blocking airflow in the center and position channels to the sides( revolver style) ,that way the cooling area will be closer the coil,that might give more responsiveness ? Maybe the middle block could be hollow instead of solid,so it doesnt rob heat.( i picture one large channel in the middle with fused openings .)

 

[Shadooz]

But the idea would be to utilize low mass, low density, and high conductivity for fast responsiveness. To make the "heat sink" as "invisible" as possible, as if the controller is only heating the coil.

I guess what you're looking for is something that acts more like a thermal capacitor than a thermal battery?

are mass and density inversely correlated with thermal "responsiveness" (in terms of how much thermal energy a material can absorb or "discharge")

The only way to "fast responsiveness" (or precise temp stability) will be no capacitor at all, glass or ceramic...
Nothing more invisible, than nothing

But the issues will be with the PID, really expensive or unsufficient.
That respond to the second question, responsivness will depend of the PID, they are inversed for the same ammount of power

Ceramic is good as an oven or a cocoon like the vapbong, not for a thermal capacitor.

I will start soon to call glassblower and ceramist to make my own glass ball cover but in boroscilate and i will seal both side.
and will put that into a small ceramic half oven
go fast or i will overtake u

 

[invertedisdead]

I know you've looked at, pretty much, all glasses and corundums for your materials. Have you considered Silicon Nitride ceramic? It is very inexpensive (comparatively speaking), easy to manufacture (apparently), and has similar thermal properties (I think) to corundum. Is it too much an insulator for your current "high responsiveness" heater material? I have to admit, other than some cursory knowledge of carbon nanostructures (due to a collaborative science project ages ago) and vapor deposition, I have almost no knowledge of material science.

If that isn't the way you're thinking, is there another largely-inert ceramic (Si3N4 also has a nice quality of being perceived as "safe" due to its use in human medicine already) that would have the thermal properties you're looking for? I'm trying to shift thinking from "high density/mass" to "high thermal charge/discharge." I guess what you're looking for is something that acts more like a thermal capacitor than a thermal battery?

edit: as in some other cases... are mass and density inversely correlated with thermal "responsiveness" (in terms of how much thermal energy a material can absorb or "discharge")?

Silicon Carbide has been shown to be biocompatible, though the Mohs is high so it's expensive to work. The hardness of aluminum nitride would be preferable but I don't believe it has seen such medical usage. It would need to be something with high thermal conductivity for that design to work to facilitate good heat transfer across the surface area of the fins.

I believe the enail coil is actually the bottleneck as they don't ramp super quickly, but I'm thinking they might still ramp fast enough to hold temperature with the right heater design.

With ceramics and glasses and crystals the heat transfer occuring by phonon, low density allows for low heat capacity for lower energy inputs needed for bigger changes. That's how you really achieve a quicker temperature ramp too, ideal for on demand portable designs.

I did have a design for silicon nitride, but it's something a bit different. There are ways to produce a very high efficiency component with silicon nitride that I have looked into, but the initial costs would be higher than what I can commit to.

I would ultimately prefer to do a heater in synthetic sapphire, that is my preferred medium, but I'm definitely concerned about the thermal expansion when strangled by a rigid enail coil. And the high hardness is an issue with mating to glass, that's one of the reasons I liked the sapphire bead concept so much is getting the benefits of sapphire without the dissimilar material pairing issues. And I still have some improvements for sapphire packing to show, so perhaps those will see a post soon. I'm not done with my sapphire evaporator design either, but I have to make sure I'm actually filling a purpose/void with it. I really just need some people to try it cause I've spent too much time with it and can't tell anymore. I regret not sending it to @arb when he mailed me his Alpha to try as that would have been the perfect time to send it out for someone else to mess with.

@invertedisdead Have you thought blocking airflow in the center and position channels to the sides( revolver style) ,that way the cooling area will be closer the coil,that might give more responsiveness ? Maybe the middle block could be hollow instead of solid,so it doesnt rob heat.( i picture one large channel in the middle with fused openings .)

I have a vapcap stem design which routes the air sort of like that.

With that above design I was thinking with low mass and density, it could maybe ride on the coils thermocouple better, but I'm not good enough at math to be able to figure out that kind of stuff without just trying it lol.

I will start soon to call glassblower and ceramist to make my own glass ball cover but in boroscilate and i will seal both side.
and will put that into a small ceramic half oven
go fast or i will overtake u

I sure hope so, it's awfully lonely at the top!

 

[arb]

Silicon Carbide has been shown to be biocompatible, though the Mohs is high so it's expensive to work. The hardness of aluminum nitride would be preferable but I don't believe it has seen such medical usage. It would need to be something with high thermal conductivity for that design to work to facilitate good heat transfer across the surface area of the fins.

I believe the enail coil is actually the bottleneck as they don't ramp super quickly, but I'm thinking they might still ramp fast enough to hold temperature with the right heater design.

With ceramics and glasses and crystals the heat transfer occuring by phonon, low density allows for low heat capacity for lower energy inputs needed for bigger changes. That's how you really achieve a quicker temperature ramp too, ideal for on demand portable designs.

I did have a design for silicon nitride, but it's something a bit different. There are ways to produce a very high efficiency component with silicon nitride that I have looked into, but the initial costs would be higher than what I can commit to.

I would ultimately prefer to do a heater in synthetic sapphire, that is my preferred medium, but I'm definitely concerned about the thermal expansion when strangled by a rigid enail coil. And the high hardness is an issue with mating to glass, that's one of the reasons I liked the sapphire bead concept so much is getting the benefits of sapphire without the dissimilar material pairing issues. And I still have some improvements for sapphire packing to show, so perhaps those will see a post soon. I'm not done with my sapphire evaporator design either, but I have to make sure I'm actually filling a purpose/void with it. I really just need some people to try it cause I've spent too much time with it and can't tell anymore. I regret not sending it to @arb when he mailed me his Alpha to try as that would have been the perfect time to send it out for someone else to mess with.



I have a vapcap stem design which routes the air sort of like that.

With that above design I was thinking with low mass and density, it could maybe ride on the coils thermocouple better, but I'm not good enough at math to be able to figure out that kind of stuff without just trying it lol.



I sure hope so, it's awfully lonely at the top!

When you mail Wang ship me them shits........lolz.

 

[Green Kiwi]

But the idea would be to utilize low mass, low density, and high conductivity for fast responsiveness. To make the "heat sink" as "invisible" as possible, as if the controller is only heating the coil. This would allow for quick heatup, so the exposed coil wouldn't be as big of a concern with a quick start, as it wouldn't need to be powered on all day as there is no major heat soaking to deal with. This also would allow for easy temperature stepping, which can be a bit of a drudge on many desktops due to slow response time. It would be designed to run off-the-shelf components for easy worldwide compability. Ideally, it would be made from a very durable ceramic, reducing the "consumables."

yes! I would think this ,makes the vape process reliable, perfect control over the temps... please continue on this path, I think you are finding the holy grail right now bro.
can't wait for you getting it out to our beloved community

 

[Shadooz]

I sure hope so, it's awfully lonely at the top!

"Now I'm the king of the swingers
Oh, the jungle VIP
I've reached the top and had to stop
And that's what botherin' me"

 

[invertedisdead]

InV1.7

+ 7 hole air inlet featuring central pearl loading hole

+ Round bottom inspired by bubble caps for easy joining to glass bowls, no ground glass joint siezing/sticking together for faster chamber clearing.

+ Side exhaust to induce tangential vortices and remove the "nozzle" effect of the conical taper

+ 100% metal free


This vape is so close to being complete, it would be awesome to truly finish it and share with others. I think these changes could take it to where it needs to go. Even though I ponder various ideas frequently, I still use this vape all day long, so I am still excited about improving it!

I think I will see about getting a few samples produced.

 

[arb]

InV1.7

+ 7 hole air inlet featuring central pearl loading hole

+ Round bottom inspired by bubble caps for easy joining to glass bowls, no ground glass joint siezing/sticking together for faster chamber clearing.

+ Side exhaust to induce tangential vortices and remove the "nozzle" effect of the conical taper

+ 100% metal free


This vape is so close to being complete, it would be awesome to truly finish it and share with others. I think these changes could take it to where it needs to go. Even though I ponder various ideas frequently, I still use this vape all day long, so I am still excited about improving it!

I think I will see about getting a few samples produced.

You do realize that at some point you're going to have to part with them?

Will swirling the heated air push everything to the center like a whirlpool does?

 

[Shadooz]

InV1.7

+ 7 hole air inlet featuring central pearl loading hole

+ Round bottom inspired by bubble caps for easy joining to glass bowls, no ground glass joint siezing/sticking together for faster chamber clearing.

+ Side exhaust to induce tangential vortices and remove the "nozzle" effect of the conical taper

+ 100% metal free


This vape is so close to being complete, it would be awesome to truly finish it and share with others. I think these changes could take it to where it needs to go. Even though I ponder various ideas frequently, I still use this vape all day long, so I am still excited about improving it!

I think I will see about getting a few samples produced.

Don't forget my ceramic oven for the stand ^^

Like that

https://www.amazon.com/Cocotte-Casserole-Dutch-Ceramic-Charcoal/dp/B083TFVW2V/ref=mp_s_a_1_9?dchild=1&keywords=small+casserole+dish&qid=1619699907&sr=8-9

Taller with a slot for the handler, floating inside with air around.
it will reduce the electric bill and speed up heatup.
And For the lid, just a hook for a cord to always be able to open it at anytime

I don't have your dimension neither the 1500°C oven to make it

This one have a hole but on the lid and won't gonna fit perfectly your glass...

This beautiful hand thrown pottery blue sugar bowl is made with a speckled clay. The body and the lid are c… | Thrown pottery, Hand thrown pottery, Stoneware dishes

Mar 2, 2019 - This beautiful hand thrown pottery blue sugar bowl is made with a speckled clay. The body and the lid are coated in a purple plum glaze. The stylish holder on the lid gives the bowl a unique and chic look. Although I have referred to it as a sugar bowl it would also be suitable for...

www.pinterest.fr

 

[Haze Mister]

With the impending ban and uncharted waters ahead,

What ban is this now? Are those fucking subhuman parasites still persecuting cannabis use???

I think the way forward is custom made quartz heaters with a matrix inside, like a bunch of beads fused together but with enough air between them for the right airflow.
However I would not be interested in anything that does not use a standard 18mm/14mm adapter as the bowl. Being able to replace the bowl with an poff-the self part would be much more attractive, because in my expereince the bowl is more likely ot break (by dropping) than the heater as it gets handled more.

I think you may be overthinking stuff! (those vapes are super powerful too)

I recommend you start selling some pieces or someone else will (like me, when I can be bothered!). Anyone buying something made of quartz or glass knows there is a chance of breakage.

 

[invertedisdead]

I think you may be overthinking stuff!

You think?

It's hard being this high-polar I think it's because I do a lot of research, so I'm always balancing in new ideas and ways to do things.

Sometimes it can be challenging to focus with all the inspiration!

I think the way forward is custom made quartz heaters with a matrix inside, like a bunch of beads fused together but with enough air between them for the right airflow.

That was an earlier idea I had, I posted a picture somewhere in this thread under "Sand Castle" I think. But I was told it wasn't really viable due to the uneven expansion rates between the fused beads, the same reason why fritted disks aren't advised for high temperatures or torching.

However I would not be interested in anything that does not use a standard 18mm/14mm adapter as the bowl. Being able to replace the bowl with an poff-the self part would be much more attractive, because in my expereince the bowl is more likely ot break (by dropping) than the heater as it gets handled more.

I feel you, that was always part of the idea behind this vaporizer was that sort of freedom. I was actually pondering a 14mm setup yesterday. One can still fit quite a decent sized load in a 14mm bowl, it made me wonder about the effects of using a supercharged heater on a smaller bowl for like the Supreme, or the Sublimator. Im assuming you get an increased residence time by going to a smaller bowl like that. I know from messing with my 18mm and 14mm SCVW vaporizers that I've been really impressed by how well the smaller one can rip with quite a bit less material loaded, which I think is pretty impressive. In some ways the SCVW dynamics are still superior to my desktop InVerzion vaporizer, but I guess that's the duality of convienence. My desktop milks fast, but not the instant whitewall of the SCVW. At this point I feel I could write a book on the differences I've observed between torch vs electric heating.

I recommend you start selling some pieces or someone else will (like me, when I can be bothered!). Anyone buying something made of quartz or glass knows there is a chance of breakage.

Besides the one nearly permanently running on my enail controller, I've got four quartz housings sitting here, two of the older style with the full length joint and hand poked air holes, and two of the last prototype with the CNCd holes. None of them are perfect but they're still pretty sweet. Perhaps I will post them in the classifieds if someone wants to play with one. Of course, if @Dubmonkey or @C-weed want one, they have first dibs.

The best thing that ever happened was when my last prototype broke, as that really lit a fire under my ass lol. Been too comfortable with this last round. I'm still running another business in the mean time so it's not like I've sat on my hands this whole time, but I genuinely do want to make some more progress here.


I'm actually having some slight second guesses (go figure) with this vortexing air concept I mentioned in my last post.
On paper and in my head it sounds great, and a lot of manufacturers claim or have claimed to "spin" the air during extraction.

However after more testing, I'm having a hard time doing it without causing the herb to also fly around the bowl in a tornado. Which sounds cool, but like the Extreme Q Cyclone Bowl, I don't think it's as effective as it is fun to watch. So I'm now second guessing the effectiveness of this without the herb being contained from both top and bottom, like a Volcano bowl.

My high-polar idea of the week is basically blending the two renderings I've posted above on this page into one. Taking my heatsink concept from post #730 but rounding out the bottom like post #740 for an effective seal with minimum contact of dissimilar materials. Which is actually a pretty clever idea, I think. Almost a game changer really, cause the challenge is how do you mate them? But that would do it. Which is funny cause it's sort of taking the "ball vape" concept, but zooming out a click on a more macro scale, and that's kind of cool.

Back to the Vape Cave!

 

[Vaporware]

I think the problem with flying flower bits is they’re always turning and not keeping the same faces in contact with either a hot wall or the hottest air coming in (depending on the type of heater/bowl).

An obvious solution would seem to be raising the temp of the bowl and/or incoming air to compensate for the intermittent contact, but especially without a uniform grind you’re probably going to combust the smaller bits and larger ones that aren’t blowing around while trying to get the larger airborne parts up to temp.

That may all be BS, but that’s my intuition about that situation. Has anyone really studied it that you know of?

It sucks that it doesn’t seem to work too well in practice. I’ve had similar ideas and I still think they’d be cool, but I care more about what actually works than what seems like it would be cool if it worked better.

I’m not saying you should give up on that part of your latest design if you see a way to make it work better, but if it’s demonstrably worse than previous designs it may not be worth putting too much effort into.

Another thing to consider though; if your hot air is coming out right on the edge of a cold bowl it may just be robbing too much heat before it even gets to the flower. If you haven’t already tried it with a hot bowl it may be worth trying, but then you have to question how much of the vapor is being produced through conduction from the hot bowl...

 

[Shadooz]

I'm actually having some slight second guesses (go figure) with this vortexing air concept I mentioned in my last post.

Must just be enough to reduce hotspot.

To reduce the swirl, put a middle hole.
If i had to do it, i would put the same hole pattern as your intake. With the external holes no more inclined than 45°, 33° seems right. With the middle hole as 0°

But your glassblower must be good... cause it's start to be a more sophisticated piece (of art? Maybe a masterpiece..)

know from messing with my 18mm and 14mm SCVW vaporizers that I've been really impressed by how well the smaller one can rip with quite a bit less material loaded, which I think is pretty impressive.

the lenght of your bowl will have to be paired with the glass capacitor.
Don't forget what i said for 14mm, do a 14( ,2 )mm "inside width" bowl, no more.
The herborizer bowl width with 14mm can hotspot if u go really fast.
For the lenght, glass will have the benefice of low radiation, so easily pure convection. The thermal pressure of your glass capacitor will define how much u can load but as it have low radiation the curved exhaust could be closer than other desktop.

And does your bowl have something to hold screen mesh ? Cause kief need at least a #325 and if it falls at each reload...

 

[Thick Vape]

Very interesting turn, this project is making

I just recently had a ruby insert for a 30mm banger in my hand and a (i think) 20mm coil. Surprisingly the insert fit the coil pretty well.
So i thought if it was possible to drill a couple holes in that inserts bottom, maybe a second one with holes reversed on top or something would give a ruby/sapphire vaporizer...

Now I see the Inverzion might have taken a similar turn with glass or ceramic.

 

[arb]

Sell me a goddamn vape @invertedisdead !

 

[BrianTL]

Sell me a goddamn vape @invertedisdead !

Yeah lets cut the shit and get this show on the road

 

[invertedisdead]

I think the problem with flying flower bits is they’re always turning and not keeping the same faces in contact with either a hot wall or the hottest air coming in (depending on the type of heater/bowl).

An obvious solution would seem to be raising the temp of the bowl and/or incoming air to compensate for the intermittent contact, but especially without a uniform grind you’re probably going to combust the smaller bits and larger ones that aren’t blowing around while trying to get the larger airborne parts up to temp.

That may all be BS, but that’s my intuition about that situation. Has anyone really studied it that you know of?

It sucks that it doesn’t seem to work too well in practice. I’ve had similar ideas and I still think they’d be cool, but I care more about what actually works than what seems like it would be cool if it worked better.

I’m not saying you should give up on that part of your latest design if you see a way to make it work better, but if it’s demonstrably worse than previous designs it may not be worth putting too much effort into.

Another thing to consider though; if your hot air is coming out right on the edge of a cold bowl it may just be robbing too much heat before it even gets to the flower. If you haven’t already tried it with a hot bowl it may be worth trying, but then you have to question how much of the vapor is being produced through conduction from the hot bowl...

One funny attempt was with a radiant oven style heater and I didn't have a screen in the heater housing because I wanted to keep it glass, especially with those higher heater temps for radiation; but small herb bits would fly around and hit the sidewalls of the housing and combust! A bottom screen easily remedies it, but it reminds me too much of the EQ Cyclone bowl, which most people switched out.

I will have to study up more on induction flow, but after some reading, I'm curious about how a tumble flow would perform...

Must just be enough to reduce hotspot.

To reduce the swirl, put a middle hole.
If i had to do it, i would put the same hole pattern as your intake. With the external holes no more inclined than 45°, 33° seems right. With the middle hole as 0°

Only issue with a middle hole would be preventing blockage from a round ball falling into it and clogging it. That was kind of the idea behind the side vents is to help negate that.

But your glassblower must be good... cause it's start to be a more sophisticated piece (of art? Maybe a masterpiece..)

you are right that it has gotten kind of complicated. Which is weird as I'm more of a minimalist kind of guy!

I figure they can close off the end of a tube, then blow out the bottom to round it out like making a round bottom flask, and then the exhaust slits could be cold worked with a saw, and the inlet holes would have to be CNCd. But yeah, it’s not super simple, but it also doesn’t seem like much more work than the current one I’ve been using.

Very interesting turn, this project is making

I just recently had a ruby insert for a 30mm banger in my hand and a (i think) 20mm coil. Surprisingly the insert fit the coil pretty well.
So i thought if it was possible to drill a couple holes in that inserts bottom, maybe a second one with holes reversed on top or something would give a ruby/sapphire vaporizer...

Now I see the Inverzion might have taken a similar turn with glass or ceramic.

It definitely could be going that route, I’ve been thinking about it for almost a year trying to work out a few issues with the idea, but I think most of them are figured out now. After scrapping my original glass “turbine screen” idea from my first prototype, I’ve since been entertaining ways to achieve equal performance or better while eliminating the beads since the glass screen is tricky to make.

So yes! A full ceramic (Maybe SiC) or sapphire heater from me is definitely a possibility I have been giving strong attention to.

Sell me a goddamn vape @invertedisdead !

At the minimum, I’m glad you liked my pitch!
And I see you’re not a big believer in the “all things come to those who wait” mantra!

Me neither

Yeah lets cut the shit and get this show on the road

That's the spirit!


I’m Glob Vila, and we’ll see you next time, on another episode of This Old Vape.