Discontinued Omicron Vaporizer for oils
- Thread starter THC SCIENTIFIC
- Start date
OF
Well-Known Member
I guess I'm not surprised it tastes foul and burnt, it no doubt is. I think you did it with all that "per oxdizing" that did it. You'll noted that the D9 sight no longer contains instructions to do this? And the now obsolete technique drifting around the web never said 'it's OK to do it as much as you want', in fact it said:
- Press Button for 3 seconds with dry cartridge.
- Allow to cool down for 20 seconds
- Repeat process 5-10 times
I think what your tasting is burnt seals in the cartridges. Pre Oxidizing was found to cause more problems (like this) than it solved which is why you don't see the procedure being promoted any more. And for sure it was always dangerous, a little too heavy on the switch and you get just what you're seeing now.
I think the best thing to do is load another cart with fresh concentrate following the instructions (which don't include running dry) and try again. I'm betting you get better taste that way?
Good luck.
OF
ataxian
PALE BLUE DOT
I bought some other carts that were cheaper however the taste profile was a big turn off!
2.4 Delta 9 Carts taste the best!
The Shorty with a AW18350 and a 2.4 cart produces amazing flavor and is really solid and works with out issues. I don't think it's worth buying lesser quality when MEDS are so high priced.
Good devices, strong meds!
A new OMNI 2.5 is the next device I will buy due to its power and size!
Pandora Haze
Vapor Chica
I stored my cart upright in a doob tube and I noticed it is leaking a little. Just wondering if I should use a new cart.
Also, I was wondering if there are caps for the bottom of the cartridge? My ecig atomizers come with them and it might be a nice addition for storage.
I am loving my omicron especially with the HVD top!
Thanks.
Also, I was wondering if there are caps for the bottom of the cartridge? My ecig atomizers come with them and it might be a nice addition for storage.
I am loving my omicron especially with the HVD top!
Thanks.
OF
Well-Known Member
Howdy, glad you're enjoying your vape, it's a good one for sure.
A little leakage isn't a big deal, as long as it doesn't keep getting worse of course. It's pretty easy to get it going really well (like when you're enjoying it....) and not cool down well enough. This can leave condensation in the flue to drain back into the furnace in addition to the heated oil already in transit to the burner that's going to keep going and pool up in, rather than evaporate from, the furnace. Too much of that (total) and it's likely to drain down the air feed tube into the connector. Cooling it down properly usually controls this unless your goods are real thin.
Damage to the seals is, of course, another matter. It doesn't get better, if you can't live with it replacement is the only solution.
When I get minor leaks (or their first cousins 'pop' plugs) I carefully fish a wire up the feed tube from the socket being very careful not to poke too far since the heater is half an inch or so up the tube sitting directly across the bore. I then pull it out, wipe it off and try again. Usually a few passes removes all the oil. If needed you can do the same with the upper tube, but it's longer. Again, be gentle, you can wreck the heater here too and the furnace opens up above the heater so you can get the wire down the side past the heater and really make a mess of it. Be very gentle and you'll do fine. Again a few wipes cleans the extra oil out and sets you up for another great session.
I would not put one of the plugs in the bottom for short term storage, you want stuff to drain out if it will not form a dam in there. I up a bit of cloth in the bottom of my doob tubes to soak up any leaks. Cotton turned out to be a bad idea as it pulls apart making a mess. The right size piece of cloth, rolled up, takes care of the rattle of the cart as well.
Best wishes.
OF
Kushtoker630
New Member
Hey guys just got a v2 (2.4)and oxidized it and all that put .4 in it but I was getting nothing getting a good taste but barely any vape it was a shatter bho and melted really good please help cost 130$ and my micro g works better and my manual as taking about a white cap on the cartridge but mine was just in cellophane
OF
Well-Known Member
First off, don't do dry burns. This includes attempts to 'oxidize'. You're working off obsolete interim directions. The manufacture was changed LONG ago (like a year?) to include more cleaning (the original source of most of the problems it seems) and oxidizing the heater so it will stabilize faster. Guys over did it even when it was recommended (which it no longer is), now most/all feel it's causing far more problems than fixing. Several attempts to find experienced owners who support the practice no found zero Members supporting it. Zero. None. Smart money says 'cut that out'.
Secondly hard concentrates take extra care. They need to be warmed up slowly and fully in the reservoir so they will feed to the heater, can't be rushed or the heater runs dry and youi're dry burning again.....which can lead to the sort of feed issues you report as you melt into the seals.
Additionally, most if not all feed issues come from poor loading technique. Hard concentrates are all the harder to load since they 'clot' so easily. This leads to an air bubble trapped in the tube under the load when the load stalls out because the tube wasn't properly heated first. Special attention to getting the tube center hot before the concentrate melts is called for. At this point it might be better to carefully melt the load out and try again?
Don't use the cart with the little doughnut seal installed in the cart top, it's for storage only. Leaving it on will let pressure build up and force leaks.
OF
ictus
Well-Known Member
I wasn't aware of which directions were the new ones. The omi I bought at a local headshop came with no instructions at all. I did the best I could to find instructions online but it was confusing as hell. I found no place that promoted the newest instructions, just googled from pdf to pdf.
I did first oxidize ~5 times like the instructions said, but after that the taste was still so strong that both me and my friend agreed we wouldn't want to put precious hash oil into it and have it taste like that. So I was thinking more oxidation attempts = less final nasty taste. Maybe I did go overboard.
But you are claiming it says no more than 5-10... it actually says a MINIMUM of 5. that to me says to keep going until the smell is gone.
You are also claiming that there are newer instructions that don't mention pre-oxidizing your cartridge. Well the latest instructions I see on the delta9 website still say to oxidize:
http://www.delta9vapes.com/pdf/omicron_v2_5_user_guide_v1_2.pdf
Says Omicron Guide v2.5 v1.2, appears to be the latest version. (I thought v2.5 was the product version and v1.2 is the manual version? )
There is also Omicron v3 "filling guide" but the guide itself is for filling the v2.5. I find this confusing (and possibly stupid unless once again I am missing the obvious here). Why name a guide v3 when the product is v2.5 and the previous user guide was using numbers like v1.2 for the guide?
I get the feeling that whoever comes up with this stuff just wants to cause confusion
They certainly don't want to make sense.
t00fatt
Well-Known Member
I loaded like a .8 in my cart last night by accident, was shooting for a .6 or .7 but got carried away lol. I have always kept hitting it for a couple seconds after releasing the button, but I'm starting to get some minor "pop" clogs. Is there any additional technique I can use to try and vape the excess oil in the furnace without the tank liquifying and feeding more oil in? I'm using a high quality C02 oil that is almost stable, so it gets pretty runny when warm. Thanks!
OF
Well-Known Member
It's really too bad you didn't come here I guess? The advice you'd get would be the same as I gave I'm sure. Notice how nobody has rushed up to say 'always oxidize this way'? I think the universal view is this causes more problems than it fixes.
Your call, but it's a dumb machine. All it can do is respond to what happens. Heat it a tiny too much, "go overboard", and grief generally follows quickly. Best advice, IMO, is to not do it.
You have to ask yourself, if this is a needed step why isn't the factory doing it? The answer is 'of course they are, now'. Most of the carts 'in the system' have long ago been flushed out. New ones you get today have the latest cleaning and other steps.
I know that one. If it's real minor (sounds like yours is) I find running a wire down the flue after a session and wiping the oil off it a time or two removes enough of the excess so when it does drain down there's not enough total to form a good clog going.
I've had mixed luck with taking a series of 'cool hits' (fast with time between to cool) but found that technique inconsistent at best.
One nasty one I had would do this routinely with even half a gram load, I found that laying it on it's side (nose just slightly up) after sessions made it better (I think by laying the load up the wall?), but that was a PITA and I dumped the cart when it ran low the next time.
I'd just enjoy it for a few sessions with a quick ream out (gently, of course) between.
OF
t00fatt
Well-Known Member
Thanks OF! Yeah its a pretty minor clog, clears right away with little suction. Could only find a small clean bit of wire that was only about an inch and half long, so I could only get it down the flute about 1 1/4" in. I'm scared to go in any deeper, but should I look for a slightly longer wire? There was a tiny bit of condensed oil in the flute. After cleaning it, taking a couple of quick 'cool hits', and laying it on its side a bit it seems to be getting better. Thanks again OF!
StickyShisha2
Well-Known Member
my cart loading tech is just a 3/8 socket, a torch, and the funnel.
by preheating the socket, it keeps the cart warm enough to make loading flow.
when done well, the cart doesn't need priming. it just works. and i find that those carts (that work without priming) don't get that heating coil (metallic) taste.
by preheating the socket, it keeps the cart warm enough to make loading flow.
when done well, the cart doesn't need priming. it just works. and i find that those carts (that work without priming) don't get that heating coil (metallic) taste.
OF
Well-Known Member
First off, you're very welcome, glad it helped ya. Noting succeeds like success you know......
I'd keep up a casual search for a better tool. I've had good luck with safety pins (handy and safe), number 1 1/2 is the ideal size IIIRC? I also used some heavy nylon fishing leader (80 pound test IIRC) for a while which worked very well and should be pretty safe if you gently poke the heater with it. I've still got a two inch piece in my wallet (I think). My favorite is still 24 or 26 gauge solid copper wire, being an electrical type at heart I've got a lot of it kicking around. Tell ya what, PM me and I'll mail you a couple of pieces?
OF
t00fatt
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the offer OF! I've actually got a few spools of wire, but all of it is multi-core. I eventually dug up some cheap low quality 24awg multi-core with nice thick strands. I twisted it up as tightly as I could, and it worked perfectly, haven't had any more pop clogs since cleaning the flute out.
OF
Well-Known Member
Bodhi Diesel
Cannabis Snob
Kushtoker630
New Member
how long can you safely hold the button down on a 2.4 running 3.7v my buddy holds it down for like 25 sec
Bob Loblaw
Astralnaut
bad practice, imho, there is a wick that needs refeeding and benefits from intermittent pulsing of the power.
VAPORIZER22
Well-Known Member
Will the aw 14500 750 mah batteries work with the short tubes? The dimensions show they are a bit taller than the aw 14500 600 mah battery that comes with the tube.
Maybe the taller 750 mah battery would work with the newer V2.5 tube and older end cap since the new V2.5 tubes are shorter and the older end cap spring is longer.
Maybe the taller 750 mah battery would work with the newer V2.5 tube and older end cap since the new V2.5 tubes are shorter and the older end cap spring is longer.
Bodhi Diesel
Cannabis Snob
Not with the short tubes that come with the HVD upgrade it won't. Notice my picture above. the two Omicrons both have the 14500 tubes. The Omi on the left is a 2.5 top and on the right, a HVD top.
OF
Well-Known Member
Actually I think it's this short tube under discussion, the one that comes with a 14500:
http://www.delta9vapes.com/products.php?product=-14500-Matte-Black-conversion-kit-with-battery
It is, of course, true the one designed for a 14250 won't fit a 14500.
OF
VAPORIZER22
Well-Known Member
Yea, the 14500 battery tube. I am curious about the 14500 750 mah black label battery's ability to work with the newer V2.5 tube and V2 end cap, since it seems to be a bit taller than the 14500 600mah battery. I was sent out a replacement top and tube and noticed that the V2.5 version's of the end cap and tube are shorter than the V2's.
Looking at your picture, is your V2.5 top shorter than your HVD top?
I wonder if there are any other differences between the V2.5 top and HVD's besides the click on click off feature.
Bodhi Diesel
Cannabis Snob
Yes, it is.
I believe there is different circuitry in the HVD top to run at 7.4 as well as 3.7.VAPORIZER22 said: