JoeKickass
Well-Known Member
That is sick.
If that is plan B I can't wait to see what Plan A is!!
Man oh man I'm glad I didn't learn abc's in your school...
lol but really the 8 was A but that doesn't come after b...
That is sick.
If that is plan B I can't wait to see what Plan A is!!
G,
It was good talking with you today as usual. Thanks for sharing with me and owning up to your mistakes in this process. Look forward to seeing yall at the cup on Saturday.
BTW: weedmaps has a promo code for $45 two-day tickets.... "wmaps" or click on the cup advertisement on the weedmaps home page...
I'll be carrying a Solo and an assortment of THC, TV vapes
http://medcancup7.eventbrite.com/?discount=wmaps
Man oh man I'm glad I didn't learn abc's in your school...
lol but really the 8 was A but that doesn't come after b...
See I didn't know Plan A = 8 (funny math on this site). So I thought Plan B was a fallback for some still mysterious plan A. Plan B is what you use if plan A does not work out. If you have to go to plan C, well, that's usually bad.
Hey guys, i have a quick question.
I just bought the omicron a month ago and am loving it. Bought .5 g of venom og, which lasted roughly about 3 weeks. Now im looking to buy just a full g of wax.
The venom og was from a prefill 1.5 ohm, it still heats up, and seems to work fine. Would it be okay if i put the g in my already used 1.5 ohm. Or would you guys just put it in the 2.4 it already came with. Will the 1.5 be that much of a difference? But also if it doesnt work, i can just take it all out, then put it in the 2.4?
14250's going up as we speak working on it now.
Sorry boss had issue and couldn't finish it. Will have it today. Just give me a few.
lol i asked yesterday too, slippin g but i know how busy you are with projects on fridaysSorry boss had issue and couldn't finish it. Will have it today. Just give me a few.
Rohm makes some extremely low resistance FET switches - These could probably reduce the drop, but I'm afraid it isn't possible to get a FET switch to have as low a drop-out as a mechanical one, in a typical configuration (now, if G wasn't afraid of inductors and boost/buck converters we could put the switch on posative in front of the regulator instead of on ground). There are plenty of mechanical ecig mods just because it isn't trivial to do power supplies electronically.I'm sorry to raise a discordant note, but I think there's an additional issue or two in play with the new tops and V2 batteries.
In a nutshell, the new V2 does better, but head to head with the TV Ultra, still has more losses than the competitor. I've been enjoying it with my DART, it's definitely better with the HVD than the original with fully charged battery. However, put the same 14500 battery in the TV unit and you get another .1 Volt which is significant in A/B tests, surprising as that was to me. To do this you need to use the new long spring in the long tube. However, the eye opener is going to the 'better' 14650s that come with V2.... You pick up a bigger drop! An additional .3 Volts on average in the test I just ran..... Now .4 Volts under the 14500 in the TV for the same level of charge.
It only looks close using 14500s.
In broad terms removing the regulator boosts the power when the battery is fresh, but does nothing for the losses in the rest of the circuit. It seems now like the poor power performance with V2 at high powers came mostly from the lame battery used! I need someone to double check this for me, is anyone in a position to? You need to read the output Voltage when loaded at 2.4 and 1.5 Ohms. That's the supply being loaded, your status is up to you......
Two "power robbers" in play, one (battery losses) several times bigger than the other (circuit losses).
Right now, it looks to me like the best performance improvement to be had comes from using the new spring and a better battery (AW IMR 14500 in my case) rather than the new top?
OF
Put simply, I don't think the .1v number can be improved much (well, cut by 3 for probably a dollar more for the FET and larger can to fit on the circuit board).
True enough, you might cut it even in half that way say? But any end user can get six times that improvement by dumping the factory battery (14650), going to the same AW IMR 14500 used 'all over' and using the new long spring designed for 7.4 Volt use at 3.7.
That is I'm now thinking the extra short spring is useless, unless you want lower performance that is. All those looking for smaller clouds, raise your hand? I'm suggesting those looking for bigger clouds consider loosing the 14650s.....
OF
The AW brand is a better battery i think they are using Panasonic cells if im not mistaken, but yes AW will provide a better life, also i was wondering do you have any extra 14650's? maybe you have a bad cell?
of please bring your batteries and unit if you are coming to the cup, lets get this tested and see whats going on, im also bring my tester there so if you can bring your mm, and what ever you use to test it that be great.
Glad to, if I come...
I'm pretty confident of the test. Changing only the battery and end cap changes it every time. I'm sure it's higher internal resistance in the longer batteries.
You have both types, right? What do you see?
OF
I just dont have the equipment right now. Office in a mess. I want to put your equipment up against our tester head for the Persei.
are they sold individually or in packs of 2?14250 Batteries are up on the site.