I should do this. I personally never once dabbed on my Showerhead.When the dish is really gunky I would apply distilled water with an eye dropper and let it lift the gunk off. If the dish is stuck to the titanium I would turn the temperature up til it loosened, could also be hit with a torch briefly to loosen up. The picture above with very slight amount of baked on carbon could definitely be cleaned without removing the dish though.
Have you considered qtipping the nail when you're done with a dab?
does anybody know what the actual temp on the dish is when you take a dab? lets say the temps set at 650, also how would you guys compare the experience w dabs on this vs an enail ?
also anyone here use terp pearls with the vrod ? I want to up my dab game if anyone has any suggestions! I’m taking about a half grain of rice size dabs right now. Get decently medicated but not like manual breathing or anything. Been dabbing live sauce on the rocks of cherry pie and live budder GMO.
Ditto on losing the damn hot balls!My controller pretty much stays on 665F all the time now.
100% recommend terp pearls for the vrod dish. I use 4 5mm sapphire pearls in my dish, they help with dab vaporization and the 2 hole directional cap spins them up nicely! I also think they make a difference for me when doing flower only with the vrod with the carb cap on. A more even and thorough browning IMO.
That being said, you may curse them a few times as you accidentally knock them out either qtipping or getting the dab off the dabber etc.... I can't tell you how many times I've done it and then had to spend 5 mins searching through the carpet, in which it has likely melted into, on my hands and knees
But they do make a noticably positive difference IMO
They changed the connection. Your coil is now called a legacy coil. I think the only Legacy PID option available at the moment is a dual PID which I believe you just sold.Hey all , long time . Quick question - I need a new Enail/PID for my Vrod as it has the older style coil connection. Upon searching Nv's site I see the single Pid lists -
Is this the correct connection or has it been changed as my coil was purchased over 1yr ago ?
- REV 2 uses XLR - 5 pin connection. Began shipping 7/21/20
Favorite morning/day/night temps? Want to hear what all you guys set your gadgets at depending on the time of day!?
I've been experimenting with draw speed like you have mentioned but I still find myself gravitating back to the carb cap. Only difference now, is I see what you mean without it. It could be the low temps I use but it just doesn't milk up the glass like the cap does. For the most part I always start at 600F and usually finish at 630 or 640. This could also be related to the moisture of this "Hot Box" brand flower. I've been leaving it sit in the closet with the lid off overnight and it seems to really help with the moisture.I don't use my card cap with only flower. I've been running mine at 635F. I can easily milk my glass by simply drawing slower.
Of course, I've been able to milk a medium size glass piece using only an MFLB, so I've had plenty of practice with super slow draws in my younger vaping days. That required SIGNIFICANTLY slower draws than this ever could.
Agreed 600F for me seems to be a good starting point, You can easily finish off a bowl at 600F it just takes a little longer with a few more draws. I usually start at 600F and finish at 620 if the herb is dry and I'm using the carb cap.Welcome to FC my friend. Sounds like you’re understanding. I am sensitive to high heat. I use a Vrod with more thermal mass which I find allows me to run at lower temps. I usually hover around 600f. I also raise the screen up in the bowl which brings the herbs closer to the head requiring less temperature. I do use a carb cap which also adds to temp reductions. All this combined with draw speed and restriction will change what temp is settled on. I’d look at the VRod too but I think you would also be happy with the WeedEater if you’re strictly a flower user.
So due to the less mass the WE really does need to be ran hotter than the Vrod then? And even moreso with the glass bowl I'd imagine? I am actually considering the WE in addition to my Vrod but I would only do this if there were some significant advantages. I'd love to bring this up in a discussion later when I'm ready.I run my WE anywhere from 700-777. Usually low 700's for daytime and 777 for evenings (Auber 300). The other Auber I have running at 535 on the Supreme V6. I get scientific by the amount of herb, draw speed, and temp. I've found I generally like a hotter temp setting than is recommended. I'm not a session guy, just a pack and rip man. If you use the EVO like the I did to mimic bong hit you'll probably like the 700's.
I haven't got the pearls yet because they haven't got the ones that fit the Vrod back in stock yet but it seems like they really make a difference in distributing the oil evenly.. and some here have said it even benefits flowers so I do plan on picking up the 5mm when they come back in.@Socks And Sandals - I had the same issue after I got mine and after marring up the dish nut I gave up and eventually the resin cooked through and I could remove it.
After that experience, when I qtip off my dish after a dab now, I also qtip off the top of the dish nut. The cap and the pearls often spray oil all around in the dish. I also have to qtip off the underside of the carb cap. Good luck and Godspeed
Hey Inverted,When the dish is really gunky I would apply distilled water with an eye dropper and let it lift the gunk off. If the dish is stuck to the titanium I would turn the temperature up til it loosened, could also be hit with a torch briefly to loosen up. The picture above with very slight amount of baked on carbon could definitely be cleaned without removing the dish though.
Have you considered qtipping the nail when you're done with a dab?
That really does sound like the thing to do. The thought of having to use a Wrench and the wrench flats to grip and to separate the two halves scares the hell out of me. Hopefully that will never happen because I really don't want to scratch it.I know I slightly loosen, and lightly finger-tighten, both threaded joints (the actual two pieces of the head, and the nut that holds the dish on) before turning it on every day. If there is any resistance at all, I would take it apart and clean it before using it.
NewVape said this is how the threads should look. They still seem short to me and don't match the threads shown on the video I linked.nah I think he said he tried it and it makes no difference. My threads look like his, and it unscrews from touching it repeatedly, let alone debowling with it.
Words , I meant counterclockwise or anticlockwise or notclockwise. It does help but not completely.Yeah but he said he tried doing it clockwise, which loosens the threads lol.
NewVape said they have never heard of the issue before but recommend blue locktite.If youre rough on the spike maybe some loctite could do the trick, should be fine on aluminum. Some of them are weak and will break loose with a little heat and a bump or two, which would be perfect.