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NewVape FlowerPot Twax Vaporizer

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RustyOldNail

Well-Known Member
@RustyOldNail Did you manage the 'probe in the airpath' and then doing an empty bowl the way you would normally hit it, at the temp you think you want? See what the actual airflow (very approximately) is? That also helped me find the right range, referring back to those charts that go around. Again, its all very approximate but its still more accurate than not doing it :)

Like @gratefulabe says, it can be that one thing that opens things up with your particular combo of settings etc.
I did try some brief tests with a wire bead K-Type probe. Only place to insert tiny bead, is through the WeedEater top air holes. I got some temperatures, but noticed the probe wire was “melting” through. The bead tips are high temperature rated, but not the cheap wire. Took a bit of work to get off the little bit of melted insulation off the Ti WeedEater top.

So before I noticed the cable melt, I recorded the air inside the WeedEater at 580f, with the Auber300 set to 600f (no PID offset). Unfortunately, I did not THINK, to draw AIR through the glass rig.

For fun, I used a handheld “bridge sensor tip”, on the top surface of the WeedEater, and saw 575f.

My flower glass rig is a 15” dual water filtration 18mm., cheap Chinese glass. Draw seems fine. I’ll try breathing faster, reason I started slow, was trying to duplicate the 4-5 draws I saw a reviewer do with a .1-.2 bowl.
 

Haze Mister

Well-Known Member
got some temperatures, but noticed the probe wire was “melting” through. The bead tips are high temperature rated, but not the cheap wire. Took a bit of work to get off the little bit of melted insulation off the Ti WeedEater top.
Unfortunately, I did not THINK, to draw AIR through the glass rig.
good job you didn't :ugh:

@newvape918


Please consider a heatguard for the Flowerpot, something like what you did for the Tsunami... The risk of burns is the main thing holding me back ... also being able to buy the parts separately in the UK....
 
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emmdeemo

Pastor for the Church of Stop Coughing since 1849
The only place to attach a heat guard too is the FP itself, and that will just conduct heat until the guard is as hot as the head anyway. The heat guard on the Tsunami is attached to the body of the tsunami and doesnt touch anything attached to the heating coil.

The idea of a heat guard on the FP was talked about somewhere in this thread. Its not a very practical idea with the way the FP works, but im not a product designer.
 

emmdeemo

Pastor for the Church of Stop Coughing since 1849
The handle is quite far back from the head. Its not really a practical idea.

I did try some brief tests with a wire bead K-Type probe. Only place to insert tiny bead, is through the WeedEater top air holes. I got some temperatures, but noticed the probe wire was “melting” through. The bead tips are high temperature rated, but not the cheap wire. Took a bit of work to get off the little bit of melted insulation off the Ti WeedEater top.

So before I noticed the cable melt, I recorded the air inside the WeedEater at 580f, with the Auber300 set to 600f (no PID offset). Unfortunately, I did not THINK, to draw AIR through the glass rig.

For fun, I used a handheld “bridge sensor tip”, on the top surface of the WeedEater, and saw 575f.

My flower glass rig is a 15” dual water filtration 18mm., cheap Chinese glass. Draw seems fine. I’ll try breathing faster, reason I started slow, was trying to duplicate the 4-5 draws I saw a reviewer do with a .1-.2 bowl.
Try the rig dry? I've had some rigs that really mask just how hard I'm drawing. For instance, there is a huge difference between my old bigger rig and the rattlecan even when going slow enough to only just get the perc/water to start moving. Rattlecan take barely any breath. Then theres another world of difference between rattlcecan with water and with out and another level of slow draw.

My thin wire ktype probe is fabric, not plastic so doesnt melt, but I also think I did my test way way way back when the handle on the bowl was screwed into a hole that went all the way thru to the inner of the bowl, so I could shove the probe in there and then wedge the handle in.

Sadly, I think I've gotten rid of that bowl in a donation.
 
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710yota

Active Member
I can see how maybe you could attach a heat shield of sorts to the handle but it would make the device pretty unwieldy and possibly harder to use with smaller glass. I already feel like I have a pretty significant chunk of metal hanging off the handle with my v-rod.

I don't want to discount your fears or act like there is no burn risk from the flowerpot but I've been using mine since December and haven't burned myself yet. Its been said earlier in this thread I think but if you make a ritual of using your flowerpot in the same area its very easy to remember "hey this is super hot, don't touch".

This is being said as someone who doesn't have pets or kids able to roam around my vaping area, I do get circumstances can be different. Like I said I don't want to say there is no risk or you shouldn't be careful but the burn hazard is something I see a lot of people worry about reading through flowerpot threads and I think it is slightly overblown.
 

Haze Mister

Well-Known Member
I'm assuming those PID controllers have a count-down timer built-in so you' re not going to forget the thing on, right?

TBH the main thing holding me back is availability of the parts in the EU / UK 'cause I'm not about to pay Vapefiend for a full bundle and would rather buy a standard XLR controller/ coil.
 

emmdeemo

Pastor for the Church of Stop Coughing since 1849
I'm assuming those PID controllers have a count-down timer built-in so you' re not going to forget the thing on, right?

TBH the main thing holding me back is availability of the parts in the EU / UK 'cause I'm not about to pay Vapefiend for a full bundle and would rather buy a standard XLR controller/ coil.
Some PID's do, some dont. Some people use a timer plug instead.

Auber controllers use 'standard' connections if thats what you're after. The Aubers also have an auto shut off.
 

RustyOldNail

Well-Known Member
The handle is quite far back from the head. Its not really a practical idea.



Try the rig dry? I've had some rigs that really mask just how hard I'm drawing. For instance, there is a huge difference between my old bigger rig and the rattlecan even when going slow enough to only just get the perc/water to start moving. Rattlecan take barely any breath. Then theres another world of difference between rattlcecan with water and with out and another level of slow draw.

My thin wire ktype probe is fabric, not plastic so doesnt melt, but I also think I did my test way way way back when the handle on the bowl was screwed into a hole that went all the way thru to the inner of the bowl, so I could shove the probe in there and then wedge the handle in.

Sadly, I think I've gotten rid of that bowl in a donation.
Who says you don’t have great ideas....
NV gifted me that old break-away bowl, didn’t have much use for it since I got the newer ShovelHead bowl with my WeedEater, and just used the handle for a different carb cap. But using that hole to insert a bead probe is GENIUS!
 

emmdeemo

Pastor for the Church of Stop Coughing since 1849
Who says you don’t have great ideas....
NV gifted me that old break-away bowl, didn’t have much use for it since I got the newer ShovelHead bowl with my WeedEater, and just used the handle for a different carb cap. But using that hole to insert a bead probe is GENIUS!
Hurray! I said something useful! :)

You'll be able to see any temp drops on inhale, or potentially temp differences at different inhale speeds.

Most illuminating, I suspect, will be air temp differences if you cap the WE.
 

emmdeemo

Pastor for the Church of Stop Coughing since 1849
Who says you don’t have great ideas....
NV gifted me that old break-away bowl, didn’t have much use for it since I got the newer ShovelHead bowl with my WeedEater, and just used the handle for a different carb cap. But using that hole to insert a bead probe is GENIUS!
Oh yeah, and take the screen/gauze out so you can angle the wire up to ensure its not touching any of the bowl and can just sit there right in the middle of the airflow where the load would be.
 

Stu

Maconheiro
Staff member
The Aubers also have an auto shut off.
I have the RDK-200 and it does not have an auto shutoff. I actually bought it over the 300 because of this.
NV gifted me that old break-away bowl, didn’t have much use for it since I got the newer ShovelHead bowl with my WeedEater, and just used the handle for a different carb cap. But using that hole to insert a bead probe is GENIUS!
I ran temerature tests back in the day using the break-away bowl. They are in this thread somewhere so I'll go look for them.

:peace:
 

emmdeemo

Pastor for the Church of Stop Coughing since 1849
I have the RDK-200 and it does not have an auto shutoff. I actually bought it over the 300 because of this.

I ran temerature tests back in the day using the break-away bowl. They are in this thread somewhere so I'll go look for them.

:peace:
Nice one! :) Thanks for the clarification!
 

Stu

Maconheiro
Staff member
Yet another shameless cross post from the vape chart thread:


Yes, but I wasn't gentle about increasing the draw speed during that test.

Precisely. :nod:

Yes, the draw rate plays a very important role along with heater temp.

I ran another test trying to dial in the max sustained temp in the bowl for a given temp. In this case I used 680°F.

I started with a fairly slow draw, then increased the speed by turning the choke valve about 1/2 turn. I wish I had an inline flow meter to give precise air speed, but alas I can only work with the tools in my toolbox. I then played around with the airspeed by decreasing a bit, increasing a bit until I found the "Goldilox" setting where the temp remained a steady 230°C.


So to summarize: If the air speed is too slow - or too fast - then the temperature will be lower than the max temp available for any given temp setting. Fun stuff to measure, but at the end of the day it doesn't play that great of a role in how the vape is used. All this testing has shown me that this is still somewhat more of an art than a science, but it's fun either way.:science:

:peace:
http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/newvape-flowerpot-twax-vaporizer.23162/page-275#post-1197280

This is one of the tests I was referring to. I did others that were interesting including a carb cap test. I'll try to find that one, too.

:peace:
 

RustyOldNail

Well-Known Member
I have the RDK-200 and it does not have an auto shutoff. I actually bought it over the 300 because of this.

I ran temerature tests back in the day using the break-away bowl. They are in this thread somewhere so I'll go look for them.

:peace:
I’m sure you are aware the auto shutoff on the Auber 300, can be disabled too. Look forward to checking out your tests!
 

emmdeemo

Pastor for the Church of Stop Coughing since 1849
I’m sure you are aware the auto shutoff on the Auber 300, can be disabled too. Look forward to checking out your tests!
Obviously I posted everything I did with temp air flow n stuff, but stu did it properly with tables and graphs n stuff whereas I rambled on and half assed it :)

I seem to recall he did a load of other tests that I didnt remotely get round to or think about too.
 

RustyOldNail

Well-Known Member
Obviously I posted everything I did with temp air flow n stuff, but stu did it properly with tables and graphs n stuff whereas I rambled on and half assed it :)

I seem to recall he did a load of other tests that I didnt remotely get round to or think about too.
Didn’t realize Stu was such a temp geek. Watched a few 2017 vids he made. Dude is using a PUMP, on airflow temp tests. That’s some cool stuff. Seems like more fun then my boring DCup surface tests.
 

emmdeemo

Pastor for the Church of Stop Coughing since 1849
Didn’t realize Stu was such a temp geek. Watched a few 2017 vids he made. Dude is using a PUMP, on airflow temp tests. That’s some cool stuff. Seems like more fun then my boring DCup surface tests.
The more the merrier, not all things are equal with this stuff sometimes. Ball parks and cross reference is always good.

EDIT: Plus, you know, thread is now 650 pages here compared to the double digits of DC/TB threads :)
 

YaMon

Vaping since 2010
I don't want to discount your fears or act like there is no burn risk from the flowerpot but I've been using mine since December and haven't burned myself yet. Its been said earlier in this thread I think but if you make a ritual of using your flowerpot in the same area its very easy to remember "hey this is super hot, don't touch".
Muscle memory is what makes this possible, just like the snooze button on your alarm clock.

Didn’t realize Stu was such a temp geek. Watched a few 2017 vids he made. Dude is using a PUMP, on airflow temp tests. That’s some cool stuff. Seems like more fun then my boring DCup surface tests.
Different perspectives matter as in they all count
 

Stu

Maconheiro
Staff member
Here's an old post referencing the temp tests with carb cap.
http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/newvape-flowerpot-twax-vaporizer.23162/page-470#post-1292431

I have done inline temp testing of the FP and found that the carb cap does not increase the temp at the bowl, but actually reduces the temp (or slows the rate of temp increase). Here's a chart.

For the carb cap, I believe it is the reduced pressure in the chamber that bumps up the vapor production, not increased heat. :2c:

:peace:
Here's a couple of the charts on that:



Here's another one using the pump:


Fun stuff!

:peace:
 

RustyOldNail

Well-Known Member
I can only speak to the Ti double weave, but I love them. They stay in place securely and keep just about everything out of my glass.

They used to clog up on my fairly quickly, until I started using my S&B cleaning brush to give a little brushing after the debowling spike. I now go weeks of heavy use without having to clean the screen.

Definitely get the Ti double weave.
Responding to this older post, in case anyone is unaware that NV is NO longer selling the Ti “double screens”. I confirmed this with NV support, as originally the DW screens showed as out of stock, the 1st response was they are coming in soon, then a few weeks later when I followed up, was told the 3-pack that’s listed, are the newer ones, and all they will carry for now.

Asked which ones I had received in my last order, and was told, I “probably”, have the new ones, not confidence inspiring, and not sure how to tell the difference. I looked at the two images of the old/new screens on the link below, and still don’t know what I ended up with. Oh well....

These:

https://www.newvape.com/titanium-screens-5-pack

Site description:
These screens are are a higher quality screen that closely resemble the Original Double Weave Screen and a big upgrade from the original screens. These heavy duty screens should last years!
 

emmdeemo

Pastor for the Church of Stop Coughing since 1849
Responding to this older post, in case anyone is unaware that NV is NO longer selling the Ti “double screens”. I confirmed this with NV support, as originally the DW screens showed as out of stock, the 1st response was they are coming in soon, then a few weeks later when I followed up, was told the 3-pack that’s listed, are the newer ones, and all they will carry for now.

Asked which ones I had received in my last order, and was told, I “probably”, have the new ones, not confidence inspiring, and not sure how to tell the difference. I looked at the two images of the old/new screens on the link below, and still don’t know what I ended up with. Oh well....

These:

https://www.newvape.com/titanium-screens-5-pack

Site description:
These screens are are a higher quality screen that closely resemble the Original Double Weave Screen and a big upgrade from the original screens. These heavy duty screens should last years!
If I'm reading the site correctly, the newer ones have thicker metal strands weaved together, and slightly smaller holes between the weaves. Looks good.
 

thevapist

Well-Known Member
I made a detailed post on the difference between new/old screens in this thread a while back. Believe I was the first person to point this out. Originally, the new style seemed alright.

Unfortunately, I have to report now that the new version does not hold up as well. I would torch the old double weaves to remove buildup about once a week. They lasted at least 6 months doing this.

New ones go RIP in 2-3 months. I also barely used it, so maybe 2-4 weeks of real usage. Don't have anymore so I can't test, but the one I had just fell apart at the edge. It's not that i wouldn't use them, but they require more care.

I have a few old double weave left, and I am washing them in alcohol with a brush so they last much longer. Do it once a week or every few days depending on use.
 
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