My secret to THC E-Cig PG-Liquid... Potent, Effective, Cheap, Easy!!!

tennisguru1

EXCELSIOR!
Beware: the manufacturer (weeplus) and wholesaler (apexlabs) of the CCELL CBD carts that Dabspot pushes soo hard are misleading us. I purchased several and pulled them apart, which we should all do before we begin to use a new device. Although it is true that they have porous (black ceramic) at its core (which admittedly is innovative for these type carts), there is some type of white hard material encased around it, which is all wrapped with cotton or sometype of fiber material. The white ceramic, though is very soft to where I was able to put a deep scratch in it with light pressure from a scratch awl. I emailed directly with the manufacturer and spoke directly with someone from apex and got the same statement - "ceramic only".

I can't speak to the health factor of all this - that is up to each individual. But this amounts to a significant amount of false advertising that directly impacts our health, and for that factor alone, I am reluctant to give them any of my cash.

Hmmmm... Not good news
Mine is ariving tomorrow, the Palm as a gift to girlfriend.
Got only 2 carts, only 1 is refilable, the other is a machine
pressed tip that is not refilabe.
I'll let you know what's up, Thx for the heads up.
Also getting the HoneyStick BeeKeeper for portable
stealth convience to see whitch one is best.


Sell now
Honey Stick Portable Conceal Bee Keeper
 
tennisguru1,

notoriousLrg

sTrange cLouds
Beware: the manufacturer (weeplus) and wholesaler (apexlabs) of the CCELL CBD carts that Dabspot pushes soo hard are misleading us. I purchased several and pulled them apart, which we should all do before we begin to use a new device. Although it is true that they have porous (black ceramic) at its core (which admittedly is innovative for these type carts), there is some type of white hard material encased around it, which is all wrapped with cotton or sometype of fiber material. The white ceramic, though is very soft to where I was able to put a deep scratch in it with light pressure from a scratch awl. I emailed directly with the manufacturer and spoke directly with someone from apex and got the same statement - "ceramic only".

FYI Some further info I recently obtained from weeplus:
"Vaporesso also use CCELL technology, but just in e-cig industry. Vaporesso and us are two independent departments of our company Shenzhen Smoore Technology LTD. "

and after I inquired about the cotton:
"We don't have wick in the cart, but actually it has a white layer of cotton to protect the ceramic core and absorb the oil.
Please check attached pics, If you can find CCELL logo laser engraving outside or ccell and batch code at the bottom of the cart, it is real ccell product. we have patent of it and other ones can't copy the brand. "
 

Vape Donkey 650

All vape, no smoke please.
Ay update on the ccells from Dab spot
I'm waiting for my order from shopapex.
Any more feedback?
Tip hints How refillable are they?
Easier the 2nd refill?

I had been wanting to see @Tokin_Jbyrd 's update with the melo tank / vaporesso cCell coil as well, but like many casual FC posters, here one week, gone forever the next week. :shrug:

I had also used this same tank / coil setup with co2 oil, if you want to see how it turned out :

The info regarding tanks and concentrates for tanks is horribly disorganized on these forums, so I don't fault you for not having found that.

spoiler : it leaks, it sucks, i wouldn't bother.

(it really leaks)

Beware: the manufacturer (weeplus) and wholesaler (apexlabs) of the CCELL CBD carts that Dabspot pushes soo hard are misleading us. I purchased several and pulled them apart, which we should all do before we begin to use a new device. Although it is true that they have porous (black ceramic) at its core (which admittedly is innovative for these type carts), there is some type of white hard material encased around it, which is all wrapped with cotton or sometype of fiber material. The white ceramic, though is very soft to where I was able to put a deep scratch in it with light pressure from a scratch awl. I emailed directly with the manufacturer and spoke directly with someone from apex and got the same statement - "ceramic only".

I can't speak to the health factor of all this - that is up to each individual. But this amounts to a significant amount of false advertising that directly impacts our health, and for that factor alone, I am reluctant to give them any of my cash.

FYI Some further info I recently obtained from weeplus:
"Vaporesso also use CCELL technology, but just in e-cig industry. Vaporesso and us are two independent departments of our company Shenzhen Smoore Technology LTD. "

and after I inquired about the cotton:
"We don't have wick in the cart, but actually it has a white layer of cotton to protect the ceramic core and absorb the oil.
Please check attached pics, If you can find CCELL logo laser engraving outside or ccell and batch code at the bottom of the cart, it is real ccell product. we have patent of it and other ones can't copy the brand. "

I also share your skepticism regarding these types of porous, soft-ceramic (silica) ceramic heaters for "vape pens" especially after I saw 2clicker's link to an article about the potential hazard of silica dust from these type of ceramic heaters. Virtually all tank products of this type calling themselves "cCell" use this type of silica ceramic heater, which is a different type of ceramic than the more durable, less porous, alumina ceramic heaters you see in load-n-go 510 concentrate vapes that you see from many companies such as DT, HVT, Source, Yocan, Puffco, etc, etc....

Although alumina is still somewhat porous (much less so than silica) they tend to have much shorter, less exposed, heat-conducting wires, and tend to make a much superior vapor quality over generic silica cCells.

A ceramic silica cylinder "cCell" is pictured on the left, with alumina ceramic donuts to the right of that. Zoom in, you can see the rough, dusty texture even on a new, un-used silica cylinder, versus the relatively smooth alumina donuts (which have been tested-dabbed on, for the markings)
da2BAhD.jpg


Alumina is also much more resistant to scraping / flaking off particles. It can take some modest abrasion and won't emit dust.

These are the best readily available materials for making heaters for concentrate RTAs, IMO. I wish there were some tanks that already used these type of alumina ceramic heaters, but there are none, apparently. So I have been making my own for nearly a year now, and I'm trying to develop this into a mass-produced product that everyone can buy.

The standard vape pen gear for concentrates out there saturating the market is largely unhealthy, combustible, clogging, leaking garbage.


I'm looking for something to take with me that's simple like a small mod or a pen,
I already dab lucid concentrates 91% thc ( a little live resin for taste) & I'd like to put
it in something to take out to the Tennis court ect..
You seem to know the feel & taste I'd like to achieve.
Thx for any help oe ideas

Steering you back over to that thread...but if you're willing to do a box mod, it seems the vaporesso veco tank is a good choice for distillate on an RTA with cCells, temp control, top filling and air, that is leak-proof.


veco_tank_1.jpg


veco_tank_4.jpg


Another guy on that thread was talking about the "honey stick" (I think you were asking about that one too, tennis g) and basically said it didn't work that well with his rosin / PEG solution. Looks like a tank with good design features, but crappy (silica ceramic / cotton wick) coils.



Interesting, I thought distillate would be too thick compared to something like ejuice. Raw distillate is pretty thick. Tried a few ones around here.

Burned cotton doesn't sound very exciting though, although the leaking part isn't too far off from my V3.
Bummer. Oh well, at least I didn't pay anything for it.

Hey...bump up. Now that I've seen many different batches of distillates since this message, of different consistences (terpene dilutation levels) I can see how "pure" distillate can be a little on the thick side, but it should still be no more viscous than a moderate-thick co2 oil, which I've had no problem vaping on my modified cubis tanks. (we are talking holes drilled in the case for wicking however)

Distillate with the flavor / terpenes added seems to be standard, however, I haven't seen a "pure" unflavored "clear" for a few years now, it seems people want the flavor, even if fake, and it naturally makes it more suitable to tanks.


But on my comment on the burned cotton, that was my greater concern with your baby beast tank.

A fine tank for nicotine e-juice vaping, I'm sure, but with such huge atomizer coils with so much cotton, even with adequate wicking holes, this type of e-cig RTA gear often struggles to "wick up" and avoid dry burns with concentrates that are not HEAVILY diluted, even with TC and cCells.

The cotton in those coils for that baby beast tank can probably absorb nearly a gram of distillate alone :D not to mention it may have poor "scavenging" to pick up those last few drops of distillate in the tank to wet the coil and vape up, and generally be inefficient

Others are much more tolerant to cotton than I am, it seems, but I am of the opinion that cotton is a horrible wicking choice for conduction, e-cig type vaping of concentrates (for convection, non-e-cig, cotton is not so bad)

It simply gets crisped up and degraded very quickly with repeated heat cycles, even with controlled, moderate TC heat. Burn it up, it's obviously worse, and doesn't even function as a wick, but only as a poor-taste and carbon transferring medium. And the rest of the puffs on your tank will taste like an ash tray with a burned-up cotton wick. Cotton on a tank, functions as a reclaim sponge, at best. :doh: :mad:

For RTA coils for concentrates, I recommend straight going straight wickless (no cotton or nothing) or to use readyxwick cured ceramic fiber wick. You can put a butane torch to this stuff, and you will burn it clean, not destroy it. :cool:
 
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Shooby

4ShOObY3 - IG
I use the HoneyStick Sub Ohm Vaporizer with the their sub ohm tank. I like this tank and I have only used it with Alpine's Black Label Live Resin, OG Kush and this thing hits really hard.

I got this about two months ago when i knew i was traveling for work. I wanted something i can easily fly with. I liked that all i had to do was open the box, unscrew the mouthpiece and put a few drops of the coil primer they provide, then slowly pour the syringe into the tank. Capped it and screwed it on the battery and started ripping and coughing. Extremely dry hits but tons of smoke. The tank fits 3 ml of the alpine live resin oils on the first fill. The atomizer is large and absorbs a lot of oil into the cotton. The only issue i had with this tank is that they provide you a PG/VG coil primer to add to your oils. I stopped using the coil primer without any issues. Otherwise, i have no issues other than it hits too hard and burns though a lot of oil. So far this tank hasnt leaked as its has yet to be sticky.

I ordered an source nail XL bubbler attachment to use on this box mod to give me a portable e-rig option.

I also have the honeystick beekeeper as i got it for free when i bought the honeystick sub ohm and was shocked at the size of it. its basically the size of a bic lighter but fatter. its great for prefilled skinny carts such as the Kurvana. Not really worth the $30 they charge imo.
 

GeeQ

New Member
I have a Kanger Subvod and SMOK AL85 both with the tanks and coils they came with. I am going to be making my own rosin and then using WL to make it into the ejuice described here. Was going to try the 2:1 ratio, will i have issues with these setups?
Sorry for the moon question, I read through every page here so I think it will be fine but just wanted to ask as well! Thanks FC.
 

420democrat

Well-Known Member
Reading through this thread now, this is awesome wish I found it forever ago. During my trip in Colorado I stumbled upon dissalate carts which made me read up on wax liquidizer I've made a few batches now but we've burnt out every coil we've tried and it gets gross, it's also not as potent as my dissalate carts.. I'm sure I'll stumble on the info as I'm only on the 4th page but what set ups do you guys like the most? Plug and play I'm a complete noob to ecigs
 

BigBoySeattle

New Member
Started following this thread a few weeks ago. After much debate I decided to keep it simple and follow the path of airwave in the very first post. Bought some of the Smoktech Dual Coil Cartomizers, mixed up a batch of liquid using half gram of wax and 2ml of wax liquidizer, baked it in the microwave for 10 seconds and then some, filled up two cartomizers and 15 minutes later took three solid puffs and I can say job well done. True vape and much stronger then I was expecting.

Interested to see what long term results will be, but like this approach since the cartomizers are about $2 a piece and therefore easily replaceable. My only concern is am I going to get enough longevity out of what I put into that $2 cart. I plan to just use them once most likely since they are so cheap and ensure I don't put the $20 that is in them at risk.
 

zenus420

New Member
Hello Everyone!

I have read this thread almost to its entirety, skipping 15 pages or so of the middle and I also read "Advanced THC e-Juice / mods / tanks / coils / builds / recipes" a thread that was born out of this one and I highly recommend.

I just want to share my experience with my mix:

I had great success with a 3:1 Wax Liquidizer (WL) to BHO concentrate (shatter). No separation, I only taste the concentrate and no burnt taste using it in a Vapresso Veco tanc with a EUC SS316L cCell on top of a tarot nano (the basic kit) set at 25W. I am using it in standard mode with no temperature control for now. I may change that based on advice a may get on the aforementioned thread.

Usually 1 to 2 hits takes me to where I want to go and I have a high tolerance, but it could be that the concentrate is top notch.

It seems to me from what I read that it is better to dilute the concentrate more and burn it at a higher rate to get the best effects. Thicker mixes at 1:1 or even 2:1 seem to cause to many gunking and burning problems, at least from what I read. I never got the effects I getting now using any standard vape pens, concentrate pens, and herb vaporizers. I really felt vaporizing was less effective than traditional smoking but I stand happily corrected after using my current setup.

I mean I would prefer to dilute it less, but it just does not seem to be as effective, especially since you can't get those huge clouds.

Question:
I am happy with WL but I am wondering if there are better options out there. I have read conflicting reports about the toxicity of PG and PEG, so are very concerning and others put my mind at ease. It is strange that scientific studies have not come to a consensus. I have no problems using WL (though saving money would be nice) as it does a good job, but it contains PG, PEG 200 & Peg 400.

Any solid info on conclusive findings?

PS: A special thank you: Vape donkey 50, PakaloloVape, Randomtoker, florduh, Steven, Grow Goddess, Dabuisnez for their help and insights.
 

BigBoySeattle

New Member
UPDATE: The Smoktech Dual Coil Cartomizers are working great. I am about 50 hits into the first one and still going strong after about two weeks. Usually two to three hits is all I need. Also have used it with friends and seem to get a good number of hits with out drying out. I actually traveled to DC with it from Seattle and I really like how small it is and the fact that it looks just like a e-cig. Actually now when I see people with them on the street I think of them in terms of how I use them and not legal e-cigs. This is very usable on the street since it is so stealth. (Form factor and no smell)

If by chance you are wondering what I am referring to then look at the very first post. The Cartomizers are about $2 a piece and the battery is no more then $15. If I only get one use out of the Cartomizer I will be happy. Probably will use it only once to be safe. I especially like the fact that I am not constantly having to load wax to a pen. I have not tried any tanks, but between cost and size/form factor I think I have found a working solution for me. Thanks so much to this group.
 

Gazaam

Well-Known Member
I am happy with WL but I am wondering if there are better options out there. I have read conflicting reports about the toxicity of PG and PEG, so are very concerning and others put my mind at ease. It is strange that scientific studies have not come to a consensus. I have no problems using WL (though saving money would be nice) as it does a good job, but it contains PG, PEG 200 & Peg 400.

Any solid info on conclusive findings?

Hi all, the word is now out on the carcinogenic byproducts produced by heating PG and Peg to 230 deg. C. IT AIN'T GOOD :(((
Carbonyl Compounds Produced by Vaporizing Cannabis Oil Thinning Agents
CONCLUSIONS:
PG and PEG 400 produced high levels of acetaldehyde and formaldehyde when heated to 230°C. Formaldehyde production from PEG 400 isolate was particularly high, with one inhalation accounting for 1.12% of the daily exposure limit, nearly the same exposure as smoking one cigarette. Because PG and PEG 400 are often mixed with cannabis oil, individuals who vaporize cannabis oil products may risk exposure to harmful formaldehyde levels. Although more research is needed, consumers and policy makers should consider these potential health effects before use and when drafting cannabis-related legislation.


https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/28355118

I think the most viable approach is to (a) use a purified oil (C02 maybe) or to try thinning with pinenes. I have vaped ECR oils in a cheap vaporizer and it is doable. When the tank gets low, just fill it again and that way you can avoid losing anything left on the bottom. I used a heat gun to warm up the ECR oil enough so that it ran freely into the tank. However sometimes some of the vapour condenses inside and blocks the air passage. As I said, the vape I used was a cheap piece of crap. I am going to get some ccell coils and a decent tank and try that out. Vaporesso claims you can vape oils using ccell heaters without any problems. We'll see about that. Anybody tried ccell with thick oils?
 
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Just signed up after reading all this thread. Hoping i can find a way to replace joints but still get the same feeling.
Total noob where all this vaping is concerned, so i did a bit of googling and bought an aspire k3 to try out, but the wick holes seem really small to me so i wonder if its any good with the thick oil im putting in it??
Im currently making rso using ipa... Decarbing my weed in the oven 120c for 20mins, then 5min stir/wash with ipa, then drain through sieve to remove big matter, 2hrs in freezer, then sieve through coffee filter while still in the freezer, then slowly heating the filtered ipa to about 90c'ish which is just over ipa boiling point so its bubbling slowly, last run took about 2.5hrs to evap 250ml ipa with 10g weed in it, ended up with about a ml of rso and some left on bottom of pyrex glass that i couldn't syringe out but ill just dilute that into my next wash. Then i mixed the 1ml rso with 1ml puff majic, .5ml peg400, .5ml pg (so 1:2... 1ml rso to 2ml liquid) which was prewarmed before adding the 1ml of rso.
Im finding it doesn't seem to be working right, can have a couple of short 1-2 second puffs that seem ok then it starts to hit rough on my throat after that.
But i don't know a lot about ecig pens and rso is the only concentrate ive tried so far.

What would be the best form of concentrate to dilute into eliquid, is it rso (only stuff ive used)...or shatter, wax, rosin, bho etc (which ive no experience of any of them but seems to be the way most on this thread are making eliquid.)
 
Uparoundthebend,

Deleted Member 1643

Well-Known Member
Decarbing my weed in the oven 120c for 20mins, then 5min stir/wash with ipa, then drain through sieve to remove big matter, 2hrs in freezer, then sieve through coffee filter while still in the freezer, then slowly heating the filtered ipa to about 90c'ish which is just over ipa boiling point so its bubbling slowly, last run took about 2.5hrs to evap 250ml ipa with 10g weed in it, ended up with about a ml of rso and some left on bottom of pyrex glass that i couldn't syringe out but ill just dilute that into my next wash.

For the moment, focusing on hard-hitting designs, but from your process -

Have you considered purging and completely decarbing at the same time? Should produce oil you can get into a syringe. Don't know if that will be enough to give you what you want.

Good luck!
 
For the moment, focusing on hard-hitting designs, but from your process -

Have you considered purging and completely decarbing at the same time? Should produce oil you can get into a syringe. Don't know if that will be enough to give you what you want.

Good luck!
Thanks. Do you mean decarbing by boiling the ipa off at around 110-120c for around 20mins?(ive seen youtube video where a guy does this) but i find it easier to decarb in the oven beforehand so that the evaporation requires less heat.
What i am struggling with though is that after evaporation, with the bit of oil ive made (currently doing runs of 10g weed), the oil im left with is very hot while still runny, and im struggling getting it into the plastic syringes. On one run the syringe hissed and melted slightly when it touched the bottom of the pyrex jug so i binned it all, dont fancy vaping melted plastic. Does anyone else struggle getting rso into syringes?
 

Deleted Member 1643

Well-Known Member
Do you mean decarbing by boiling the ipa off at around 110-120c for around 20mins?

Basically. Recommend this procedure. It may require a little set-up but produces excellent results, at least with EtOH (haven't used ISO). Happy to provide tips. Resumed using this procedure with second-run QWET in an effort to produce something to use in available concentrate cartridges or e-cig tanks.
 
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Basically. Recommend this procedure. It may require a little set-up but produces excellent results, at least with EtOH (haven't used ISO). Happy to provide tips. Resumed using this procedure with second-run QWET in an effort to produce something to use in available concentrate cartridges or e-cig tanks.
Thanks...link doesn't work though, says this site can't be reached?? I only use rso because i saw the rick simpson videos on youtube and he used ipa in that. I tried it in my rice cooker first time but i found it too hot and volatile so settled on my current method.
 
Recently i been trying to use the RSO i made to create a e liquid, but im having some trouble and lack of experience on the subject. My idea was to tell you how i make my RSO and then how i tried to convine it with a e liquid base in case you have any ideas or suggestions to get a better result. So i make the RSO by using high grade cereal alcohol, let it sink with the plant material for around a week since i make like 1/2 litres at a time. After the sink i rinse the plant material out, let the tincture cool down and then for a cold rinse with some coffee paper filters so all the impurities and plant material is out if the tincture. After that i use the double boil method and reduce the tincture into only oil and collect it with syringes. I got aproximately 10ml of RSO out of a litre of filtered pure tincture.

Now for the mixing with a base part, to be honest i only tried a base that was 70% pg 30% vg a friend made for me and add the RSO after being heated back into a liquid state by double boiling method. Now the thing is i been reading this forum and especially the "http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/m...-liquid-potent-effective-cheap-easy.6287/page" post and i came to the conclusion the best thing to try for me is to mix the RSO with only PG and maybe some flavor in PG, not VG. Do you have any recomendation as to how better mix it and in what ratio? Im gonna try 1:1 and pg 2:1 oil ml, plus maybe a pg 2 RSO 1 and maybe Flavor PG 0.5. I would really appreciate your input and expercience, hope you have a nice day :).
 
Gitos Indoor Grower,
  • Like
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Latest batch update...

Read the link that accept sent me above so decided to try it a bit like that. This is what I did.
Minced up 14g/half oz with my fingers, put it in a jar with lid on. Put jar of weed and bottle of ipa in freezer for a few hours. Removed from freezer, poured ipa into weed jar till inch or so over level of weed. Lid on, shake gentlyish for a good 20secs. Pour into sieve over glass. Put weed back in jar and some fresh ipa probably half what it had before, another 20 second wash, through sieve into glass. Glass of wash into freezer for hour or so, then pour through coffee filter into fresh glass while still in freezer. When it's all through coffee filters, pour into a glass pie dish or similar glass/pyrex thing so its a shallow pool, then blow air across it towards outside with a desk fan etc. When 90% gone put into a pan of water and warm pan up, should still smell of ipa with the gentle heat (my elec hob has levels 1-6, i had pan on 1 for this), got to about 60c, when it stops smelling of ipa i had white gunk/mayonnaise round the edges (water, like in your car oil filler cap), when the ipa had gone this mayonnaise then ran into the oil and split, looked bad at first but was ok, it was fascinating watching the water and oil react. After probably hour and half all the mayonnaise/traces of water, had gone (to my surgeons eye there was still specks of mayonnaise/water remnants on the surface, probably 4 or 5 tiny specks, fraction of a %, but i could see it, keep an eye out if you do it).
Turn heat off and let it cool down. Now this is where I decided to do things different to before, no messing with syringes this time. I scraped it up onto a stanley blade as it was cooling but still warm and weighed it... 1.3g from 14g, so allowing for stem thats pretty much a tenth reduction.
As it cooled to room temp and hardened, i had a thought... Instead of thinking mls I'll keep it in grams. A nice joint of mine is half gram, so i cut .25g of oil off (2.5g equiv) and warmed that in shot glass till liquid, added .5ml peg400 for hour back in double boiler hob level 1, after hour i added 1ml pg for another hour, occasionally stirring, then turned heat off and left overnight. Next day there was little dots of splitting or whatever in the liquid, was a bit pssd off but did some reading, saw somewhere something about some thc things that become molten at 80c ish (fk knows) and obviously dissolve better, so i warmed shot glass up with liquid in, put hob on full whack and checked temp in pan/glass, once it hit high 80s i turned heat off and let it cool and stirred, looked a lot better at room temp.
Anyway im vaping away on it, best liquid ive made so far, not nasty, quite thin, dark, clear film on glass, no burnt coil hit so far, im quite happy as far as replacing smoking a joint goes!!!

Forgot to say earlier, i decarbed after mincing my weed and before freezing at 130c for half hour, came out light brownish colour, then straight into jar then freezer, etc etc!
 
Uparoundthebend,

Deleted Member 1643

Well-Known Member
Anyway im vaping away on it, best liquid ive made so far, not nasty, quite thin, dark, clear film on glass, no burnt coil hit so far, im quite happy as far as replacing smoking a joint goes!!!

Congratulations on a promising result! :clap:

There may be room for improvement... :science: Haven't used ISO, just EtOH, so fact-check first.

Put jar of weed and bottle of ipa in freezer for a few hours.

Probably not long enough, even more so with ISO. The colder the better, at least 24 hours. After rigorous testing, getting consistently good results with chest-style deep freezer.

Pour into sieve over glass. Put weed back in jar and some fresh ipa probably half what it had before, another 20 second wash, through sieve into glass.

That's the way to do it, but might want to separate these washes. With EtOH, the first produces flavorful, high-quality shatter for dabbing. The second produces hashy, sappier concentrate for e-juice. There's probably ~10% activity left in the filtrate that you can recover by lipid extraction for edibles/topicals.

then pour through coffee filter into fresh glass while still in freezer

A Buchner funnel is an inexpensive upgrade. You can attach it to your faucet. Usually strain quickly in the freezer and then pour through a Buchner funnel.

when the ipa had gone this mayonnaise then ran into the oil and split, looked bad at first but was ok, it was fascinating watching the water and oil react.
:spliff:

Another upgrade is to use a silicone mat heater and evaporator chamber to avoid picking up so much water.

A nice joint of mine is half gram, so i cut .25g of oil off (2.5g equiv) and warmed that in shot glass till liquid, added .5ml peg400 for hour back in double boiler hob level 1, after hour i added 1ml pg for another hour, occasionally stirring, then turned heat off and left overnight.

For safety, you should probably purge ISO better than this before dissolving in glycols. It's less of a concern with EtOH, as it's less toxic and many commercial e-liquids contain trace amounts of EtOH. Also, that's a lot of PEG400 for 0.25g oil. A few drops should be plenty. PEG400 is more of a health concern than PG, so it's better to minimize it (or not use it at all). It also tastes like plastic and irritates the throat. :puke:

Forgot to say earlier, i decarbed after mincing my weed and before freezing at 130c for half hour, came out light brownish colour, then straight into jar then freezer, etc etc!

There's no need to decarb. The cannabinoids will decarb when the e-juice is heated, like vaping flowers. Decarbing sacrifices flavor, but also makes the concentrate more fluid. If desired, with this process, it would probably be better to purge and decarb at the same time in an oil bath.
 
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Congratulations on a promising result! :clap:

There may be room for improvement... :science: Haven't used ISO, just EtOH, so fact-check first.



Probably not long enough, even more so with ISO. The colder the better, at least 24 hours. After rigorous testing, getting consistently good results with chest-style deep freezer.



That's the way to do it, but might want to separate these washes. With EtOH, the first produces flavorful, high-quality shatter for dabbing. The second produces hashy, sappier concentrate for e-juice. There's probably ~10% activity left in the filtrate that you can recover by lipid extraction for edibles/topicals.



A Buchner funnel is an inexpensive upgrade. You can attach it to your faucet. Usually strain quickly in the freezer and then pour through a Buchner funnel.

:spliff:

Another upgrade is to use a silicone mat heater and evaporator chamber to avoid picking up so much water.



For safety, you should probably purge ISO better than this before dissolving in glycols. It's less of a concern with EtOH, as it's less toxic and many commercial e-liquids contain trace amounts of EtOH. Also, that's a lot of PEG400 for 0.25g oil. A few drops should be plenty. PEG400 is more of a health concern than PG, so it's better to minimize it (or not use it at all). It also tastes like plastic and irritates the throat. :puke:



There's no need to decarb. The cannabinoids will decarb when the e-juice is heated, like vaping flowers. Decarbing sacrifices flavor, but also makes the concentrate more fluid. If desired, with this process, it would probably be better to purge and decarb at the same time in an oil bath.

Youre dead right, i only did a half assed cut down version of the GW method and i was very pleased with the result, a massive step forward from where i was at. Next time I'll do it more thorough, 24hr freezing etc.

Decarbing... I cant figure out whats best. I think like you do, it decarbs as you toke just like a joint, but then you read a snippet somewhere saying that ecigs dont get hot enough to reach decarb when vaping, so fk knows. Only way to see is next time I'll do 10g>1g without decarbing and see if i get a feeling off it.

Interested to see that im using too much peg400, thanks for that, how much would you think it would need to dissolve .5g oil ready to mix into pg? I just did a quick mental ratio, had .5g oil so used 1ml peg (just a 1:2 for ease of memory) but I'll try with a weaker peg400 ratio next.
Will oil dissolve into just pg? I thought peg400 had to be used to dissolve the oil, then from there mix with pg??
 
Uparoundthebend,

Deleted Member 1643

Well-Known Member
Interested to see that im using too much peg400, thanks for that, how much would you think it would need to dissolve .5g oil ready to mix into pg? I just did a quick mental ratio, had .5g oil so used 1ml peg (just a 1:2 for ease of memory) but I'll try with a weaker peg400 ratio next.
Will oil dissolve into just pg? I thought peg400 had to be used to dissolve the oil, then from there mix with pg??

For 0.5g oil, recommend adding PEG400 dropwise, if that's what you're using. Probably only need a few drops.

For a PG-only mix, check out @randomtoker's recent post.
 
Deleted Member 1643,
For 0.5g oil, recommend adding PEG400 dropwise, if that's what you're using. Probably only need a few drops.

For a PG-only mix, check out @randomtoker's recent post.
Have you got a link to that post, was it in this thread? Went back 10 pages and couldn't see anything by randomtoker but i remember reading his posts. When I click on the link it just takes me to randomtokers profile.
 
Uparoundthebend,

Vapology

Well-Known Member
Here you go :)

The randomtoker likes to dillute a lot with only PG.
PEG is bad for you - stay away from that stuff if possible.
I don't like to dillute at all. I use QWET oil mixed with some terpenes derived from industrial hemp.

Try and error - you have to find out what works best for you.

Good luck


Wow, interesting to see this thread still alive. Way to go guys! Awesome tests and finds. Also interesting that people keep beating their heads against the same wall (trying to use as thick, and least diluted concentrate, instead of just making diluted juice). :lol:

My findings to share since I've last posted (all strictly my opinion for what works for me and my intentions, not necessarily the 'best' for anyone else):

I've tried every ratio and I long ago settled on heavily diluted. I've also tried many gear setups and keep returning to the Aspire Cleito tank (now the new EXO version). It's coils have 3 huge wick slots and vertical chimney coil, nothing compares (EXO also uses the classic Cleito coils, best option: Clapton, 0.4ohm). No other tank I've tested hits as consistently, loads as easily, leaks any less (no matter what they promise), lasts through more refills, nor costs less. They all suck, and this one isn't perfect, but it does what it's supposed to do the best for me. DANGER: The fucker spits, almost deal breaker, but I made a tall curved glass drip tip to stop it, someone needs to sell one of these, it's like MANDATORY. I've tried a bunch of cheap single battery box mods and the Aspire NX75 is still my favorite. I run in Watt mode (Cleito tank does not support Temp Control) at 18 watts and draw hard for cool, thin vapor.

(no association with Aspire, nor VapeNW, just including above links for reference)

pixlr_20171018152718173.jpg


BUT, I dilute my concentrates. After almost 2 years at this, I still find: the best solution is dilution.

My recipe for over a year now:
  • 1 Gram of concentrate
  • 6 ML Propylene Glycol
  • 12% additional mixed sweet flavorings (Flavour Art)
My mix method (I do 10 grams at once):
  • put water in a bowl and microwave for 90 seconds
  • put concentrate in small jar and put jar in bowl
  • when concentrate melts, pour in PG a little at a time, swirling periodically
    • If your concentrate is questionably purged, this is the time to leave it for an hour or so with continuous passive heat to off-gas BEFORE pouring in your PG to mix.
  • take jar out of bowl and reheat water periodically
  • if it didn't disolve, hit it with a cheapo coffee frother
  • add flavors
My purify method (I live in a desert):
  • once mixed, cap and put in direct sunlight for a couple days
  • if your mix was at all greenish (cheap extract) or opaque (emulsified mix), it will become golden as the chlorophyll and nitrogen do their sun magic, and clear as the fatty plant crap separates and floats
  • separate and enjoy golden clear juice that won't train-wreak your gear
That's it! I purchase 10-20 grams of the cheapest extract from my medical dispensary when it's on sale and make piles of juice and refrigerate it. I'm over VG, I'm over PEG, I'm absolutely over terpenes.

WHY SO DILUTED ??? :hmm:
  • Cannabis clogs everything, you can't fight it. Everything looks like the perfect solution, but try using it for a week, a month, a year? Nope, cannabis cloged it.
  • Instead of trying to force a square peg (thick cannabis goo) into a round hole (nicotine juice vaping tanks meant for flowly juice), shave off the corners and be done with it.
  • There are many medical studies showing increased skin absorption using Propylene Glycol, that's why it's used in so many body and medical products. Diluting concentrate into PG, creates a highly effective and efficient carrier.
  • Flat out safer, thin flowly juice allows vaping at low temp, not producing the dangerous aerosols everyone likes linking to, and not caking up your wick with unvapable plant fats that still sizzle and smoke into every one of your tokes like thick, undiluted juice does.
  • Less RAUNCH (cough, cack, hack, you know it). So sick of cannabis hacking, been doing it for over 30 years. Thin mixing juice is the smoothest tokes I've ever had. I've tried everything. No smoke/vape experience gives me less hack response than my mixes. That cannabis twang that makes you hack, I'm just over it. I swim, I run, I freedive. My lungs are in the best physical shape ever. I did a 10K trail run just this past weekend and puffed hard on my vape the whole ride over, greatest run ever. Versus: One vape of flowers or less diluted concentrate, and endless hack.
  • Less flooding and leaking! Since the wick doesn't become caked with unvaped plant fat, it doesn't become brittle and full of openings for flooding, instead it remains soft and spongey, ready to soak up fresh juice as it vapes out old.
  • Less extract waste! Working with highly concentrated goop in this gear leads to inevitable waste. However, if it's heavily diluted, you're always consuming the maximum amount of your original extract purchase, not leaving it gooped up all over your gear.
  • Less gear waste! Working with non-diluted extract leaves unvaporized plant fat oil goo crap all over your wick, burner, and entire vapor path. It builds up, and cakes up, tastes aweful, and ruins your gear. All that stuff is disposable/replaceable and we're just filling the world with garbage. Get as much use out of your stuff and then you'll start enjoying cannabis more and futzing with broke ass gear less. I fill my 3.5 ml tank 20 times with my juice before I need to replace the burner. I don't even need to pull it out and clean it between fillings anymore, it's always so clean. :nod: That's living IMO. I never futz with my gear, I just use it.
  • Honestly, at the end of the day, I've always preferred sipping something fine with good conversation than doing body shots of tequila at a bar. I like consuming cannabis, I don't want to just take one little toke and be super high, ok done, goodbye? I'm a pothead, not a junkie. I like spliff strength tokes, I like kicking back and enjoying LOTS of tokes, letting my breathing become part of my relaxing routine and settling into a long mellow onset high. Versus sharp spike and crash, super concentrated tokes that get old fast for me, headache, burnout, yay? I puff all day, every day, and I'm never burned out, ever.
WHY THE FLAVORS ??? :hmm:
  • If you dilute your cannabis extract at all, you are already changing the taste. Don't judge me until you've judged yourself ;)
  • The main reason I use a big, sub-ohm juice tank vape is for convenience. Since I have to dilute for maximum convenience (least maintenance), I have to flavor because diluted extract tastes gross. Period.
  • If you're going to flavor at all, you're best to COMPLETELY REPLACE THE FLAVOR. Trust me, no matter how good your cannabis + fruity thing tastes at first, it will just turn into a sour, half cannabis tasting mess. I KNOW! (barf)
  • Sharp flavors should be avoided (all fruity stuff). Cannabis causes all flavors to 'sour' as its own flavors 'sour' as your juice is slowly vaped. It's gross. It happens on every scale of juice vaping.
  • Flat, and especially Sweet flavors do the best to completely replace the diluted / half cannabis flavor and maintain a mask over the underneath cannabis flavor souring. It may sound like BS, but it works. I recommend mellow sweet things like plain sweetener, marshmallow, glazed donut, graham cracker, cheesecake. Custard, and vanilla custard work mixed with others, but can tend to sour, use sparingly. Caramel works in conjunction with others, just use very little as it can tend to sour also. Shoot for the really flat flat flavors, the cereal flavors work too. Nothing fruity or pronounced, flat flat sweet sweet is key.
WHY NO TERPENES ??? :hmm:
  • What I love about concentrate is that it isn't that wire headed, headache-inducing, spinny, headsoup, mess of cannabis buds (took me years to get past it, I loved flowers for decades, but I'm here for the THC and CBD). Fuck all that burnout / raunch / throat cack / lung heave, B-fucking-S, terpene garbage, there I said it: I HATE INHALING TERPENES AND YOU SHOULD TOO.
  • Seriously though, that's it. Adding terpenes to juice makes it suck. I wish everyone (especially commercial mini-pen fillers/distributors) would stop. I've tried them all. I've tried mixing with them all, in all possible combinations, with and without additional flavorings, in various different carriers. I mean really, admit it, it sucks. Give me THC and CBD, I can go do aromatherapy any time I want, when I'm inhaling cannabis I just want to INHALE please, not cough.

Holy wall of text batman!! Sorry, not sorry, for super long post. I love this forum. Favorite corner of the internet. Don't take me too seriously, but tell me what you think! :clap::clap:
 
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