passenger
is this thing on?
Maybe @MUSA Vaporizer can chime in, but talking Herborizer I'd say the Herborizer XL Bowls are larger than 18mm and you will probably need the Ti / DigiTi Bowl
MUSA Wooden Vape
- Thread starter f2j
- Start date
nasdri253
Well-Known Member
I might have made some confusion here sorry, the xl was referred to the options available at Vgoodiez, the standard bowls will not work with the Musa or Herborizer as too short.
Razhumikin
Well-Known Member
It has a magnet on the power connector and on the base. It looks sweet imo.
seedy53
Well-Known Member
bulbs are cheap and replaceable everything is made to be replaced. Mr T, he's a great guy.
I had one of my first units running almost 24/7 and the bulb lasted for two years.
If you use the vape for just a view hits in the evening, its for sure possible to to have a working bulb for 20 years. Well known brand halogen lamps are very reliable and made to last.
The bulb is also dimmed about 50%, which should have a major impact on the lifespan.
The bulbs were even better back in the days, but they made the heating wire thinner, which dropped the lifespan by 50% And now the old bulbs are not available anymore.
Thank you! Appreciate you!
triskelion
Member
Arawfish
Vapman “Beta tester”
Literally just got it in the mail today
Took a long time to get to me, and within that time I’ve kinda reconsidered the direction my life is going, and having a surplus of expensive vapes really isn’t apart of that direction.
I haven’t even tried it yet… I opened the box to see what was there and then put it all away again. Hasn’t been listed yet but I sorta gave the insta crew a heads up in case anyone wanted it.
I’m on the fence haha. Either I sell this or I sell a bunch more small stuff or maybe I just sell it all
A new happy owner here!
Members who are familiar with my posts on FC know that I love log vapes, so it is no surprise that I became interested in the Musa 2.0! I was lucky to get one rare used one on the Discord exchange from a fellow Canadian at a very reasonable cost and it came with glass WPAs, a replacement glass heater tube and a couple of bulbs. For someone who dropped out of the waiting list due to too many devices, I could not resist the opportunity because I was still thinking about the Musa but resisting VAS!
After a few weeks using the MUSA, I can say that for me it is almost PERFECT. It will probably outlive me, the one thing that I will not be able to validate of all the things written in the web site description and in the posts in this thread about the Musa 2.0. Even repairs by the user.
Talking about repair, I have to give a public WOW to @MUSA Vaporizer for the stellar customer service and being firmly behind his product. All things about the kindness and availability of this man are understatements because he is very approachable and good. He just made me a happy man again this morning helping get my Musa 2.0 back on after I mishandled it. I was so excited and enjoying it that I was not being very careful - I was pulling the Musa from the stand instead of sliding it off and that caused electrical issues. He walked me through several ideas over the last few days until this morning when an ultimate try of a very simple trick did the job! Thank you, thank you again @MUSA Vaporizer.
I am so happy!
The Musa performance is amazing! Probably the top of my vapes for flavor thanks to its excellent flavor profile. Outstanding creation in every way, i think, to sum up my thoughts pending more review down the road…
Members who are familiar with my posts on FC know that I love log vapes, so it is no surprise that I became interested in the Musa 2.0! I was lucky to get one rare used one on the Discord exchange from a fellow Canadian at a very reasonable cost and it came with glass WPAs, a replacement glass heater tube and a couple of bulbs. For someone who dropped out of the waiting list due to too many devices, I could not resist the opportunity because I was still thinking about the Musa but resisting VAS!
After a few weeks using the MUSA, I can say that for me it is almost PERFECT. It will probably outlive me, the one thing that I will not be able to validate of all the things written in the web site description and in the posts in this thread about the Musa 2.0. Even repairs by the user.
Talking about repair, I have to give a public WOW to @MUSA Vaporizer for the stellar customer service and being firmly behind his product. All things about the kindness and availability of this man are understatements because he is very approachable and good. He just made me a happy man again this morning helping get my Musa 2.0 back on after I mishandled it. I was so excited and enjoying it that I was not being very careful - I was pulling the Musa from the stand instead of sliding it off and that caused electrical issues. He walked me through several ideas over the last few days until this morning when an ultimate try of a very simple trick did the job! Thank you, thank you again @MUSA Vaporizer.
I am so happy!
The Musa performance is amazing! Probably the top of my vapes for flavor thanks to its excellent flavor profile. Outstanding creation in every way, i think, to sum up my thoughts pending more review down the road…
coolbreeze
Well-Known Member
Awesome! Your review got my MUSA-VAS flaring--can't wait til my turn comes around!
Razhumikin
Well-Known Member
Musa 2.0 is very underrated, due to it being hard to get, but remains my favorite halogen vaporizer by a long shot and one of my favorite vapes ever. Beautiful form matched with stellar function and unbelievably powerful flavor, what more could you want? I hope to get my hands on a v1 someday! Tobias has one waiting for me, but hes a busy man, and I can be patient 
.
.
Weedaholic
Well-Known Member
Yeah the musa is one of my favourite vapes for sure.
Just like to say thank you to tobias for my second musa that arrived two weeks ago.
It was a pleasure to deal with you again.
The one on the left is my first and is still going strong over two years now.
Just like to say thank you to tobias for my second musa that arrived two weeks ago.
It was a pleasure to deal with you again.
The one on the left is my first and is still going strong over two years now.
Wow
you guys are truly amazing.
I feel so blessed to make experiences with humans like you. Thank you from my heart!
I wish everyone a wonderful day!
you guys are truly amazing.I feel so blessed to make experiences with humans like you. Thank you from my heart!
I wish everyone a wonderful day!
Azn2101
Well-Known Member
Finally got around to attempting to fixing the wiring issue with my v1 MUSA from the birdcaged wiring and it definitely is much more complicated than a simple re-solder & attaching new copper wires…not trying to rehash things, I’d just like it fixed so I can deliver it to its new owner.
I found after wicking away a lot of Solder to reattach the copper leads that the pin in the port that also acts as a terminal had Epoxy of some kind that had become loose and was allowing the pin to spin in place. On the attempt to fix that it began tilting inside the port so the male side of the power cord could no longer be inserted cause the pin was/is no longer centered.
This is a picture after a lot of solder was wicked away from the intact port
This is the port after trying to re-solder the leads and finding the pin was moving. I cleaned out the old Epoxy and most of the old solder from the pin, I understand that electric components can be complicated so I’m wondering if there was purposely so much solder on specifically the center pin because I had fully re-soldered the wires and there was no power flowing to the bulb or the wiring behind the port.
the unattached pin:
If anyone has any tips or help they could throw my way that’d be awesome. Again I’m just trying to get this in prime condition before I ship it out.
Edited to remove Internal photos
I found after wicking away a lot of Solder to reattach the copper leads that the pin in the port that also acts as a terminal had Epoxy of some kind that had become loose and was allowing the pin to spin in place. On the attempt to fix that it began tilting inside the port so the male side of the power cord could no longer be inserted cause the pin was/is no longer centered.
This is a picture after a lot of solder was wicked away from the intact port
This is the port after trying to re-solder the leads and finding the pin was moving. I cleaned out the old Epoxy and most of the old solder from the pin, I understand that electric components can be complicated so I’m wondering if there was purposely so much solder on specifically the center pin because I had fully re-soldered the wires and there was no power flowing to the bulb or the wiring behind the port.
the unattached pin:
If anyone has any tips or help they could throw my way that’d be awesome. Again I’m just trying to get this in prime condition before I ship it out.
Edited to remove Internal photos
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@Azn2101
I have no emails from you. And im not logged in here on FC daily.
If you need fast help, better try it via email next time
It looks like you broke the dc socket. There is no epoxy involved, its just part of the socket. You would have to buy a new dc socket with a 2,1mm pin and resolder the wires. I could give you more detailed instructions via email.
I have no emails from you. And im not logged in here on FC daily.
If you need fast help, better try it via email next time
It looks like you broke the dc socket. There is no epoxy involved, its just part of the socket. You would have to buy a new dc socket with a 2,1mm pin and resolder the wires. I could give you more detailed instructions via email.
Azn2101
Well-Known Member
For sure man, I appreciate you getting back to me what was this material holding the pin in place so I can re order it?
It almost looks like a collar between the pin and the port but are you 100% that’s not adhesive connecting the pin to the white collar?
Could it be something like the posts to the bulb? Here’s all the internals right before I soldered the leads to the port and found the pin has moved from whatever is in that picture melting
Edited to remove Internal pictures.
It almost looks like a collar between the pin and the port but are you 100% that’s not adhesive connecting the pin to the white collar?
Could it be something like the posts to the bulb? Here’s all the internals right before I soldered the leads to the port and found the pin has moved from whatever is in that picture melting
Edited to remove Internal pictures.
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It's part of the DC socket and can't be replaced. You have to buy a new DC socket with a 2,1mm pin and resolder both wires. Is soldering an option for you? Otherwise I could create that part for you and ship it to the US.For sure man, I appreciate you getting back to me what was this material holding the pin in place so I can re order it?
I don't want to give detailed instructions to the public how to create specific parts of my vapes.
This information is just for Musa customers. I think this is understandable. So, if you need more detailed help I would be happy to communicate via email.
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No problem. By the way. You got one of my first Musas ever created
Azn2101
Well-Known Member
@MUSA Vaporizer I knew it was early but not that early in the production. Dang man, this thing has been through a lot and still looks and holds together great.
The MUSA is by far the most versatile Vape; It’s a lamp when you want it to be lol, and gives the best tasting vapor from all the devices I’ve owned. There was a time When i’d use the MUSA to test material to see if it was worth getting to pressing while also having an idea of what the Rosin would taste like when collected.
It’s the only vape I’ll think back on that’s for sure though.
The MUSA is by far the most versatile Vape; It’s a lamp when you want it to be lol, and gives the best tasting vapor from all the devices I’ve owned. There was a time When i’d use the MUSA to test material to see if it was worth getting to pressing while also having an idea of what the Rosin would taste like when collected.
It’s the only vape I’ll think back on that’s for sure though.
AssistedLiving
Well-Known Member
I've been saving up for one ever since I moved into ALF with a no cannabis on property policy, call it a nite-lite, cheers!
You could join the waiting list already. I would recommend it, since the waiting time is more than 12 months right now.
This email reached me this morning. Its always great to hear more from new MUSA owners. Thank you people for the great experiences!
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Azn2101
Well-Known Member
@MUSA Vaporizer
Sorry for the late response. With your instruction I was able to fix the Musa back into pristine condition with a new DC Port.
I swapped out the stock 35w 2900k bulb for a 35w 3000k bulb of the same brand and noticed a bit faster heat-up and now is my preferred bulb for a faster start to end session but is a little harder to find the sweet spot in between combustion/loss of flavor and low amounts of vapor but lots of flavor. The latter not a problem, just an aspect of the device not fully utilized being that the MUSA is able to pull full flavor and produce thick clouds in the same draw.
The 3000k bulb has an oddly higher chance of combustion and noticeably faster Heat-Up than the 2900k but from testing it for about a week the 3000k bulb when set to the correct position on the dial allows you to start producing full flavor clouds in a little under 2min of heat-u, stem in the chamber w/o ELB.
I’d suggest all MUSA users pick a 35w 3000k up for $8 USD and give it a shot. a small cost to change the functionality in a big way for about 1/4th less bulb life.
Again, the only Vaporizer I kept during the purge and the only one I’ll miss when it sells.
Sorry for the late response. With your instruction I was able to fix the Musa back into pristine condition with a new DC Port.
I swapped out the stock 35w 2900k bulb for a 35w 3000k bulb of the same brand and noticed a bit faster heat-up and now is my preferred bulb for a faster start to end session but is a little harder to find the sweet spot in between combustion/loss of flavor and low amounts of vapor but lots of flavor. The latter not a problem, just an aspect of the device not fully utilized being that the MUSA is able to pull full flavor and produce thick clouds in the same draw.
The 3000k bulb has an oddly higher chance of combustion and noticeably faster Heat-Up than the 2900k but from testing it for about a week the 3000k bulb when set to the correct position on the dial allows you to start producing full flavor clouds in a little under 2min of heat-u, stem in the chamber w/o ELB.
I’d suggest all MUSA users pick a 35w 3000k up for $8 USD and give it a shot. a small cost to change the functionality in a big way for about 1/4th less bulb life.
Again, the only Vaporizer I kept during the purge and the only one I’ll miss when it sells.