Mobius Glass

3. Don't combust, especially a massive hit, because it tastes so bad, and your liver will not feel good after
Lungs ;)
What kind of sticker was supposed to be in the box? Was it a Mobius sticker or a Kultureva sticker? that Mobius logo is too sweet to not have a sticker for, if so I will have to complain until I get one!
AFAIK it's a Mobius bumper sticker.
 

Live-N-Learn

Higher, Higher, Baby...
Made the edit to lungs.

I am definitely gonna be making a call once the snowstorm is over and everything is back to normal on Monday. My initials are MB and I need that sticker in my life! Stickers remind me of when I was little and did good in school, and they would give you a sticker. Stars, happy faces, whatever it was, it was cool. :cool:
 
Live-N-Learn,

oldiebutgoodie

Apostle, Church of Vaporization
. . . 1. Smoking through your Mobius doesn't damage it . . .

As I posted earlier, this is not necessarily true. As I type this I am looking at a Micro Clear which has a ~1'4" smoke ring haze embedded in the glass where the water line usually is. It's a strange phenomena - when there is water in it or it has just been cleaned, the ring isn't visible. The ring slowly reappears some 30 minutes after the piece is dry. After a helluva lot of research and experiments, it is certain that the ring is not on the glass nor is there any compound sealing it to the glass (the way that hardened organic material can entrap a mineral, requiring the organic to be removed before the mineral can be removed). My theory is that the ring is either "char" or trapped gas by-product.

I've used very strong alkali agents like PBW, and even stronger acids like hydrochloric. The only reagent I haven't tried is a piranha etch which is also unlikely to work (and is dangerous). When glass is permeated, usually the only solution is a polishing compound such as professionals use to repair glass. If only I could get inside the Micro's can, I could probably repair it, but I haven't been able to figure out how to do that safely.

I've probably gone off-topic here (@mom may spank me), but since we are Mobius lovers I just wanted to stress that it is possible to damage glass with combustion. Unfortunately I don't know exactly how the previous owner did this, except that he did it while using fire. This may be a highly unusual and unlikely occurrence, but I sure wouldn't gamble on it with a Mobius piece.
 

momofthegoons

vapor accessory addict
OBG, your post is just fine. ;) I, frankly, didn't see where the "history of vaporization novella" and the downsides of smoking versus vaping came into this.

No, if I had spent the kind of money on my glass piece that you guys have spent on your Mobius pieces, I'd want to make sure I knew what would damage it too. If we're talking about damage to a Mobius piece, caused by smoke, that's a different story. Carry on. :tup:

That is.... unless you like spankings? :lol:
 

Live-N-Learn

Higher, Higher, Baby...
As I posted earlier, this is not necessarily true. As I type this I am looking at a Micro Clear which has a ~1'4" smoke ring haze embedded in the glass where the water line usually is. It's a strange phenomena - when there is water in it or it has just been cleaned, the ring isn't visible. The ring slowly reappears some 30 minutes after the piece is dry. After a helluva lot of research and experiments, it is certain that the ring is not on the glass nor is there any compound sealing it to the glass (the way that hardened organic material can entrap a mineral, requiring the organic to be removed before the mineral can be removed). My theory is that the ring is either "char" or trapped gas by-product.

I've used very strong alkali agents like PBW, and even stronger acids like hydrochloric. The only reagent I haven't tried is a piranha etch which is also unlikely to work (and is dangerous). When glass is permeated, usually the only solution is a polishing compound such as professionals use to repair glass. If only I could get inside the Micro's can, I could probably repair it, but I haven't been able to figure out how to do that safely.

I've probably gone off-topic here (@mom may spank me), but since we are Mobius lovers I just wanted to stress that it is possible to damage glass with combustion. Unfortunately I don't know exactly how the previous owner did this, except that he did it while using fire. This may be a highly unusual and unlikely occurrence, but I sure wouldn't gamble on it with a Mobius piece.

I edited it again so your research will be duly noted.
 
As I posted earlier, this is not necessarily true. As I type this I am looking at a Micro Clear which has a ~1'4" smoke ring haze embedded in the glass where the water line usually is. It's a strange phenomena - when there is water in it or it has just been cleaned, the ring isn't visible. The ring slowly reappears some 30 minutes after the piece is dry. After a helluva lot of research and experiments, it is certain that the ring is not on the glass nor is there any compound sealing it to the glass (the way that hardened organic material can entrap a mineral, requiring the organic to be removed before the mineral can be removed). My theory is that the ring is either "char" or trapped gas by-product.

I've used very strong alkali agents like PBW, and even stronger acids like hydrochloric. The only reagent I haven't tried is a piranha etch which is also unlikely to work (and is dangerous). When glass is permeated, usually the only solution is a polishing compound such as professionals use to repair glass. If only I could get inside the Micro's can, I could probably repair it, but I haven't been able to figure out how to do that safely.

I've probably gone off-topic here (@mom may spank me), but since we are Mobius lovers I just wanted to stress that it is possible to damage glass with combustion. Unfortunately I don't know exactly how the previous owner did this, except that he did it while using fire. This may be a highly unusual and unlikely occurrence, but I sure wouldn't gamble on it with a Mobius piece.
Haven't other folks in the PBW thread noted this phenomenon?
 
kingofnull,

oldiebutgoodie

Apostle, Church of Vaporization
Haven't other folks in the PBW thread noted this phenomenon?

I don't remember it being discussed. There were some posting who could not get the glass clean with any of the agents suggested, and IIRC there was a mention of trying muriatic. For those whose glass stains or haze just won't remove, I suspect the problem is often one of disparate layers, i.e., there is no point trying to remove a compound which is encased by another compound which your cleaner doesn't attack. So a sequence of multiple cleanings with different agents may be required. That said, if the glass has been permeated then microscopic layers of silica may have to be removed to get at the problem; this is what a polishing compound does.

. . . That is.... unless you like spankings? :lol:

I thought that was sort of a British thing. :D
 

treecityrnd

Active Member
Did you really just give me the background information and history of vaporization?!?! I wasn't expecting that but it was a great story. If I wasn't lazy Id google all those names and get even more in depth with it.
Great post, gotta show love to the pioneers of the game! And yeah, I love these Ball jars, I love having many jars so the extras stay fresh while I dab a nug from another jar.

To stay on topic :lol:
I just wanted to know if combusting through my Clear would damage my Mobius in anyway if that makes sense. I was thinking maybe smoke stays in the glass, or the glass would turn yellow and never turn back, or it would just blow up because its such a beautifully crafted piece that deserves better then smoke!!!

Thanks Live! It's nice to know others appreciate helpful information in the thread I started.

I think a Mobius piece might blow up if it were combusted in...or at least at my house it would.
But seriously, I put way worse, corrosive, stains, dyes, etc. stuff in regular pyrex glass beakers in the lab all the time. Acetone usually does the trick if it's washed quickly.

if the glass has been permeated then microscopic layers of silica may have to be removed to get at the problem; this is what a polishing compound does.
Yup, and because glass is porous if you let it sit it may permeate the walls.
So I guess clean often and well? I'm going to clean right now...
 

oldiebutgoodie

Apostle, Church of Vaporization
. . . So I guess clean often and well? I'm going to clean right now...

Amen. And understand what you're putting in your piece and what you're using to clean it.

I agree re the acetone, but IME solvents don't help with mineral stains. I've had good success using an oxalic acid polishing agent aka Bar Keepers Friend. Make a weak slurry and shake it thoroughly inside the piece, the result is usually spotless. Investment protection.
 
oldiebutgoodie,
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John Lewus

Well-Known Member
I need help trying to find a bucket with a lid that fits the Mobius 60t so I can let is soak in PBW below my sink. The closest I have found is a 25 quart pet food container but it is to big but height is pretty good. I've kept an eye out for a couple months now but can't find anything about 14 inches high and maybe 7 inches wide (circular or rectangular). My idea is to let it soak each night in a pre made solution until it's nasty. Anyone have any ideas?
 
John Lewus,

t-dub

Vapor Sloth
John, if I may say, if you really want a liquid, in place, dunk tank, for extended soaks, I would seriously consider using a different chemical more suited to that type of application. Simple Green comes to mind. I use PBW hot and quick, its hard alkali.
 

Tweak

T\/\/34|<
...can't find anything about 14 inches high and maybe 7 inches wide (circular or rectangular).

Does it have to sit vertically? Why couldn't you lay it on its side?

A tote/tupperware would be easier to find in that dimension, 14" wide and 7" tall.

I like the idea. But are there any adverse affect might this have on glass?
 
Tweak,

John Lewus

Well-Known Member
John, if I may say, if you really want a liquid, in place, dunk tank, for extended soaks, I would seriously consider using a different chemical more suited to that type of application. Simple Green comes to mind. I use PBW hot and quick, its hard alkali.

My plan is to try both. I tried PBW for a week and a half soaking and too many floating collected at top leaving a residue ring I had to clean because it could not fully submerge the 60t . I really need a covered bucket that roughly fits a 60t and that's what I am having trouble finding.

I thought of putting on the side but feel less comfortable doing that over time and does not fit my bathroom as well. Regardless I still had a hard time finding a horizontal one to fit under sink.
 
John Lewus,

oldiebutgoodie

Apostle, Church of Vaporization
My plan is to try both. I tried PBW for a week and a half soaking and too many floating collected at top leaving a residue ring I had to clean because it could not fully submerge the 60t . I really need a covered bucket that roughly fits a 60t and that's what I am having trouble finding.

I thought of putting on the side but feel less comfortable doing that over time and does not fit my bathroom as well. Regardless I still had a hard time finding a horizontal one to fit under sink.

I'm using this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0084B2ETW/

It's only 12" tall though. I didn't find one taller on Amazon and I didn't check the manufacturer's site to see if there may be such. I'm doubtful though, seems larger capacity = wider not taller. I submerge my Cloud HT's but not my Mobius pieces. At first that was my intent, and I can do that with the Ion. But the Micro Clear's neck prevents full submersion; while I can submerge it enough for cleaning that prevents putting the container top on, resulting in any odor from the solution escaping. Actually I found that dipping them into the solution until they fill and then removing/corking the joint works just as well, but I'm not sure that would work with a 60t.

I'm also using SG, but now full-strength. No rings or residue. Re PBW, IMO it's overkill if the piece is being cleaned after each time (or two) that it's used. It's great for hard-to-remove compounds and/or build-up, but at least IME that typically isn't needed with regular cleaning. And as t-dub reminded, without thorough hot-water rinsing it leaves a very hard film.
 
oldiebutgoodie,

Tweak

T\/\/34|<
I'm also using SG, but now full-strength. No rings or residue. Re PBW, IMO it's overkill if the piece is being cleaned after each time (or two) that it's used. It's great for hard-to-remove compounds and/or build-up, but at least IME that typically isn't needed with regular cleaning.

I almost bought some SG but wasn't sure how well it would work. Trying to keep PBW away from my Mobius as I don't want to risk any residue. Been using just ISO + Rezblock but I like the look and the price of the SG formula, I was wondering where I could find a phosphate cleaner.
 
Tweak,

Live-N-Learn

Higher, Higher, Baby...
ngrp1k.jpg


AHHH a stain! Warm Water didn't clear it. I have yet to do a PBW wash though.
 
Live-N-Learn,

t-dub

Vapor Sloth
I was wondering where I could find a phosphate cleaner.
You should be able to get TSP (Trisodium Phosphate) at a hardware or paint store. It is commonly sold as deck wash and house paint prep since it dries perfectly clean.

Re PBW usage: With RezBlock and hot water flushes, my PBW usage is once/week, and I use very little, maybe a teaspoon, with a very discreet dwell time.
 

Dafni

Well-Known Member
I got my Reti Ion and love it! It has a very nice size, bigger than I thought, and feels perfect in my hand. Nice weight to it.

The diffusion is just perfect for vapor, IMHO, and the volume too. Gotta love the craftsmanship as well, of course. Perfect piece for my taste.

Thanks FC for pointing me into the mobius direction

cheers
Daf
 

John Lewus

Well-Known Member
I'm using this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0084B2ETW/

It's only 12" tall though. I didn't find one taller on Amazon and I didn't check the manufacturer's site to see if there may be such. I'm doubtful though, seems larger capacity = wider not taller. I submerge my Cloud HT's but not my Mobius pieces. At first that was my intent, and I can do that with the Ion. But the Micro Clear's neck prevents full submersion; while I can submerge it enough for cleaning that prevents putting the container top on, resulting in any odor from the solution escaping. Actually I found that dipping them into the solution until they fill and then removing/corking the joint works just as well, but I'm not sure that would work with a 60t.

I'm also using SG, but now full-strength. No rings or residue. Re PBW, IMO it's overkill if the piece is being cleaned after each time (or two) that it's used. It's great for hard-to-remove compounds and/or build-up, but at least IME that typically isn't needed with regular cleaning. And as t-dub reminded, without thorough hot-water rinsing it leaves a very hard film.

I checked one of those out but it is not big enough. I got lucky enough that I found something at Walmart nearly perfect. I have to set it horizontally but I can live with that due to no better options. I bought some SG concentrate and will try that for daily soaks.
 

BigDaddyVapor

@BigDogJunction
You shouldn't need SG for daily soaks. Even if you're combusting, shouldn't need more than 2 soaks a week, at most.

I gave my Black Leaf Saxo to a combustion friend and they've actually been keeping it pretty clean, with just 70% ISO/salt rinses.
 
BigDaddyVapor,

Reveen

Well-Known Member
I got my Reti Ion and love it! It has a very nice size, bigger than I thought, and feels perfect in my hand. Nice weight to it.

The diffusion is just perfect for vapor, IMHO, and the volume too. Gotta love the craftsmanship as well, of course. Perfect piece for my taste.

Thanks FC for pointing me into the mobius direction

cheers
Daf

I love the base on these Ions . . . nice and wide so you'd really have to screw up to knock it over.
 
Reveen,
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