marcuss' yellow stuff thread (Extra Virgin Vape-Oil)

[marcuss]

well....nice to see some new tips added!

Spiderman...
Isopropyil it is very hard to find(maybe impossible) in my place and i'm quite sure there is no sugar in my grain alchol that is 95%.Anyway i never smoke my oil!
also butane is too difficult to handle...and i still prefer to soak all my glass in something that i can actually drink as a liquor!
I know everybody uses these solvents but don't like dealing with chems and explosive!
Your last tip is the best for me to clean up oil from all veg particles!!
I'll try for sure this step in my next extraction!!!

 

[Spiderman]

marcuss...

there is sugar in your grain alcohol. not cane sugar, plant sugars. Ethyl alcohol, or grain alcohol, contains ethanol. Ethanol is created by fermenting sugars (such as barley, hops, grapes, potatoes, rye, etc) into alcohol. The alcohol itself is "sugar" based, chemically.

 

[marcuss]

Nice to know....
...anyway i prefer to vaporize some sugar than other poisons
I made a test.....left a teaspoon full of grain alcohol on the table to evaporate...after a day i found nothing in the spoon(no sugar left) spoon was real clean.....does sugar evaporate with alcohol?
At the end if i don't burn the oil where is the problem with a micro(if any)amount of sugar?

 

[marcuss]

Ethanol is created by fermenting sugars....so there is sugar in your grain alcohol is something like saying there is worm humus in your plant if you fed it with worm humus!

You need sugar to make alcohol but there is no sugar in grain alcohol...
Fermenting means to destroy sugar to create something chemically different or not?
If you can link me some info to support your think!

 

[vtac]

I'm getting close to cleaning my glass so I'm glad this discussion picked back up again.

Not sure on the isopropyl vs ethanol debate, I was going to use some 99% iso since it's cheap and readily available here.

I hadn't thought to filter the liquid before evaporation. Any debris would be sapped of all their value at that point?

Spiderman, still looking forward to some more on your Kutpipe.

 

[Spiderman]

Vtactician: Using 99% is actually pretty unncessary.....especially because as soon as you open the 99%, it saps humidity out of the air and becomes a lower percentage...you can get the lower concentrations cheaper, and the extractions will come out equal quality.
As far as debris, ya, its sapped of its value. With alcohol as a solvent (ethanol or iso) its going to eat through the plant/goodies pretty quick. Give it an overnight soak and its DEFINTILY got everything out, including the plant sugars and chlorophyll.

Marcuss: Once again.....im not talking about sugar the same way you are. You wouldn't be able to "see" the sugar, because its not the white stuff you add in your coffee.....its just molecules of sugar, in the homogenous solution of alcohol. However, they get trapped in the oil, and when you apply heat to anything sugar, it carmelizes. If you take some pictures of what happens to the oily leaf bits when you vape them, i could show oyu what i mean.

vTac: good news, my new camera should be on its way within the week. Soon as it gets here, be ready for more kutpipe photos than you want.

 

[vtac]

A 500ml bottle of 99% is only $2 here, I get it because it sounds hardcore.

Soon as it gets here, be ready for more kutpipe photos than you want.

Haha, can't wait, it looks like a sick piece.

 

[Clear_Dome]

A 500ml bottle of 99% is only $2 here, I get it because it sounds hardcore.

Soon as it gets here, be ready for more kutpipe photos than you want.

Haha, can't wait, it looks like a sick piece.

damn it's pretty cheap where did you buy it ?

 

[vtac]

damn it's pretty cheap where did you buy it ?

Shoppers Drug Mart

Might be a bit more $ now, I've had the same bottle for a while (never leave it open), but it's cheap as hell.

...especially because as soon as you open the 99%, it saps humidity out of the air and becomes a lower percentage...

Do you know how long you'd have to leave the cap off for it to take on 1% water and become 98% iso with relative humidity at 50%? (genuinely asking )

You don't think 99% will do the job and evaporate faster than 70%?

 

[vtac]

Anyway i never smoke my oil!

Caught ya!

I admit...try smoke it and make me k.o!!
stay in the cloud little more...then i drop some nice pics!!

Hey buddy! I hope everything is good for the happy vapor couple this Spring after your new custom of smashing an Extreme at your wedding!

 

[marcuss]

bombo.....yes i tried to smoke it one time and was too strong for me!
better vape it anyway!

spiderman thanks for all the info but i can only use this kind of alcohol...no choice!
I'll use the spent oil to make some creme caramel and give you some pics!!

Seems that everything is going cool after this new strange custom!!

 

[Spiderman]

vtac: ill admit that i dont know. However, my understanding is that it'd be pretty much immediate.

right on all, good luck with it marcus and others!

 

[vtac]

It definitely evaporates quickly... makes me wish I didn't skip chemistry classes.

I like your idea of using butane on the SSV wand, sounds like it might be easier and faster than soaking. My wand is pretty coated, do you think it'd get it all? Do you have a recommendation on the adapter?



So like this, but using an adapter for the nozzle and a filter on the bottom? I won't be using ronson butane, don't worry.

 

[Spiderman]

HAHAHA i was reading your post after seeing the pic ready to go "GET RID OF THAT DAMN RONSON!" but you got me beat!

For a fun little test.....try a mirror test!

Go out, buy a few different cans of tane, any brand will do, and get a big flat glass dish or mirror. spray a quarter sized drop or so of each different tane on, and wait until they all evap. when you look at it, you'll notice REAL fast that they all leave some gunk behind. Any that don't leave nasty shit behind are good to use. Any that don't....well, i promise after doing the test you'll never want to use low grade tane again.

If you buy Vector (my favorite, only one I use) it comes with plastic nozzle adapters. Grab the big one, it should fit perfectly . For the other end, what you really want is......unbleached coffee filter (the brown ones, not the white ones) Nylon zip-ties (Nylon ones are non-reactive, they wont leech anything into your oil), get a good firm seat of coffee filter against the bowl end, wrap it down and around, zip tie it, trim off the excess coffee filter (it acts as a rag, soaking up your oil). Good to go.

Before you do this, holler at me, so I can give you in-depth instructions for how to properly "purge" your oil of extra butane. Do it right, and it comes out GREAT.

 

[marcuss]

good luck with all new chemistry fans....should be nice open a butane oil thread too, it's a quite different way to do the same job, isn't?

Just warn them that playing with butane is a bit dangerous....i know bad things about this tecnique...also a purge tecnique must be public domain....remember this forum name?
fuck combustion...i also say fuck chemistry!

enjoy vapor sweetness!!

 

[vtac]

Hehe, sorry to derail your thread, marcuss.

I agree, butane is dangerous and most brands have nasty contaminants. If I can't find any Vector locally I'll just do the iso method. The main reason I'm thinking of butane is because the shape of the SSV wand seems to be perfect for it.

As for the purge, from what I've read, you place the collection pan in another pan filled with hot water to speed evaporation. Then put the first pan on a heating pad for an hour and pop all the bubbles. Everything done OUTSIDE of course.

Anyway, I'll make a new thread if I go with butane.

 

[Spiderman]

vtac: that would essentially work. Theres a little more to it, IMO, but you have the main points of it down perfectly.

What i would change would be keep it in hot water bath, do 10 minutes of purge per gram of expected extract, with a LID, and pop bubbles carefully....you only want to pop the ones that flame up, the other ones are generally terpenes (not many in there with reclaim, so you REALLY want to get what you can) or other thc-volatiles.


Sorry for the hijack marcus, keep doin what you're doin.

 

[marcuss]

hehe....no problem for hijacking this thread but just to make everything nice and clear!!!

I will continue my tecnique and spiderman's tip about filter debrids is a big improvment!

I'd like to see something related to your thought on grain alcohol...i'm really curious to see someone(maybe a scientist) else that says what you are saying about caramelization

 

[tokinGLX]

Wow! So does that mean that shit is going in my lungs?

haha, do you know that all(well, ok, mostly all) of that brown oily stuff is cooled, condensed thc

of course it goes in your lungs, if it didnt, you wouldnt be getting high.



lots of talk in this thread about using a solvent to get the wand hash out......
havent any of you ever scraped it before just takes a chunk of minutes and a scrapey tool, and you have a near perfectly cleaned wand.

ive been meaning on making a quick vid showing how to clean the wand tokin style, im sure youll wnt to give it a try when you see it in action.

really tho, all it entails is using an old pokey that i have put a slight bend in the tip and a couple squares of toilet paper. reach inside the wand and scrape for 10 seconds, then ill cover the bowl end of the wand with the tp and blow through the other end. out poops all this gooey wand hash. repeat the process a few more times and there you have it. a few good sized gobs of hash that yuo can smoke or revape(i use a separate double screened wand for hash purposes), and it packs a damn punch. if youre the type of person that needs a little extra help falling asleep, a couple hits of wand hash will put you there.

 

[tokinGLX]

oops, most of that was meant for this thread-
http://www.fuckcombustion.com/viewtopic.php?id=65

(':

 

[ozwiz]

This is also another reason I love running my whip / water+ice filtration system... hard to beat water as a filter for particulate matter.

Could not agree more .

 

[marcuss]

lots of talk in this thread about using a solvent to get the wand hash out......


tGLX......maybe for the SSV and for DB you can clean the wand without solvet but this is not possible for all kind of glassware and vape tubing where the only thing that works is soaking in alcohol!

 

[tokinGLX]

oh i am quite awares, thing was, i came into this thread from a link in the other thread and in my state of highness i had confuzzled where i was posting into.

there is a crapton of great information in here, i mean never to step on somebodys toes on their way of doing things, i merely wanted to at least get word out that a lot of the stuff can be scraped.
before converting to vapes, i smoked out of a lot of glass pieces. when you have glass, and no pot, you learn to scrape that resin for resmokage. so it was second nature to me to scrape the vape wand when it got dirtied up.

 

[marcuss]

well done tokinGLX! turn your waste in gold is a must in this time!

It is a good techinque when you can put something inside to scrap but don't do this to plastic tubing to avoid some plastic matter in your stuff

 

[Cannabudz]

lots of talk in this thread about using a solvent to get the wand hash out......


tGLX......maybe for the SSV and for DB you can clean the wand without solvet but this is not possible for all kind of glassware and vape tubing where the only thing that works is soaking in alcohol!

I thought this stuff was crap @ 1st, had real trouble cleaning it with acid, then the other day i took the plastic off and put the glass in a oven @ 100c for an hour and the yellow mellow just lifts off with the touch off a pointy or scrapy thing and resets as it cools, and seems to enhance the weed when vaping it, so alcohol maynot be necesary to clean the glass, tubing's a different thing of course, i'm thinking reclamation is a good idea with the amount i tend to use