Log vape resistors - My DIY Log Vape

lazylathe

lazylathe

Almost there...
@stickstones I have noticed that thier glass are different shapes but never knew about the thicker vapor.

Since i am not a glass worker and am not going to be heading that way i can only stick to easily available materials. Modifying test tubes is easy and cheap and best of all easy and cheap to replace if broken!
I pay 0,08 cents per test tube so that will not break the bank. The SSV or DBV glass costs considerably more.

What i really like about the ceramic heater is how fast it recovers between hits.
If i turn it up a but more i can inhale as fast as i can and still get a good size cloud.
Slowing it down releases more flavor and thickens up the vapor.

Still a few more design ideas and perfecting my glass cutting skills to get completed.

So far this vape has cost about $20 in parts and a lot of time!
 
lazylathe

lazylathe

Almost there...
Just bought some 12V 40W cartridge heaters to play around with!
They seem to be quite heavy duty and will not break down like the ceramic resistors.

So my ideas for this vape are:
1- Use a SS cartridge heater at 12V 40W
2- Locate some smaller test tubes so that i can have a small all glass air path vape
3- Look into VVPS to fine tune the power (waiting for @CentiZen VVPS)

So it should be a smaller version of the LazyVape, all Glass and lower power consumption so it can be left on 24/7.

Will update when the parts arrive!
 
lazylathe

lazylathe

Almost there...
underdog said:
Heya Lazy cool project you've got going on here.. :tup:

When you get those 12V 40W cartridges in would you mind measuring their resistance and sharing the info? Always curious as to what off-the-shelf options are out there. :peace:
Click to expand...

Will do!!
The specs i have for now are:
12V 40W
6mm diameter and 20mm Long.
Not too sure when they will arrive though..
 
lazylathe

lazylathe

Almost there...
vap999 said:
From Ohm's Law, at 12 V, 40 watts, you've got 3.6 ohms resistance with 3.33 amps current.
Click to expand...

I guess that would work in an ideal world but these are mass produced items from the Far East where QC is not always the greatest.
Usually with electronic parts like this there can be quite a wide range of resisitance in the smae group of components.

For example:
I bought some 110V 100W cartridge heaters to mess around with.
Ideally they should measure 121 Ohms but they vary from 98 to 116, so out of 3 heaters not one is correct...
Close but no cigar!
 
lazylathe

lazylathe

Almost there...
Will be picking up the heaters tonight after work!
Looking forward to starting a new project using them.
I already have some ideas kicking around...

Have to see if it will be an all glass air path as i feel the heater will not be able to heat up the glass i have on hand... And since i do not do glass blowing making smaller glass tubes is not possible.

What i was thinking of though was to house the heater in either an aluminum or stainless steel tube that is turned on the lathe with grooves in it to act as fins. This will be inside a glass test tube.
The idea behind the fins and grooves is to increase the surface area and cause the air to come into more contact with the hot tube.

We will see how this works out!

kloop said:
Your work is amazing :whoa:
That 12v 40w heaters are like the printers ones? Do you think they will have enough power?
After viewing this post and the lazyvape one I'm starting to want to make my own vape, but that can't end well:lol:
keep up the good work :clap:
Click to expand...

Thanks kloop!!
I am sure they will have more than enough power if handled correctly.
The small resistor i started with has enough power to combust, so the new heaters should be perfect.
Stay tuned!
Holidays are almost here and i will have time to experiment!
 
lazylathe

lazylathe

Almost there...
Bugger!!!
It was not the heaters but an Arduino book…
looks like more waiting...
 
lazylathe,
lazylathe

lazylathe

Almost there...
The heaters have arrived!!
I have not had the time to measure anything yet, only wired one up quickly to a 12V 1000mAh wall wart.

These little suckers heat up to over 300 degrees Celsius in about 20 seconds!!
Think i am going to have to install them in an aluminum heat sink to regulate the temps a bit.

Also trying to figure out a cheap way to regulate the current to the heater for some sort of temp control.
Any ideas?

@underdog i will measure the resistance on the weekend sometime and let you know it is!
 
Hippie Dickie

Hippie Dickie

The Herbal Cube
Manufacturer
Also trying to figure out a cheap way to regulate the current to the heater for some sort of temp control. Any ideas?
Click to expand...

seriously? i have a thread with an approach i like - pretty cheap and pretty accurate temp control ...

okay, you can put a dimmer of some sort on the 12v line input, but i found potentiometers were too difficult to control for my taste -- developed a dead spot and the only interesting range was just several percent of the full range. Running the current through the pot burns out the resistive material at the sweet spot.

you could use a pot to control a MOSFET. user feedback control if you throw in a BBQ thermometer.
 
Hippie Dickie,
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lazylathe

lazylathe

Almost there...
Hippie Dickie said:
seriously? i have a thread with an approach i like - pretty cheap and pretty accurate temp control ...

okay, you can put a dimmer of some sort on the 12v line input, but i found potentiometers were too difficult to control for my taste -- developed a dead spot and the only interesting range was just several percent of the full range. Running the current through the pot burns out the resistive material at the sweet spot.

you could use a pot to control a MOSFET. user feedback control if you throw in a BBQ thermometer.
Click to expand...

Seriously? LOL!
I was looking for something quick, cheap and preferably ready to go...
I know, wake up and welcome to reality! No such thing exists..
I discarded using a pot, dimmer switch etc for the reason you mentioned.

I have had a quick look on e bay but the 12V ones only go to 100 degrees C, so not good for what we need.
Guess i may have to break out the Arduino kit and start learning!
 
lazylathe,
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Hippie Dickie

Hippie Dickie

The Herbal Cube
Manufacturer
when i first started out i found a PWM module on ebay for about 10 bucks. it used a pot to control a MOSFET. could dissipate 100 watts (or some such ... it had a very big heat sink.
 
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placetime

placetime

Well-Known Member
Hippie Dickie said:
okay, you can put a dimmer of some sort on the 12v line input, but i found potentiometers were too difficult to control for my taste -- developed a dead spot and the only interesting range was just several percent of the full range. Running the current through the pot burns out the resistive material at the sweet spot.
Click to expand...
I could be way off-base here (this eluktricity stuff is not my forte), but would putting the potentiometer on the AC side make it last longer than if it was put in-line with DC current? In my very limited experience, I've found that DC switches can tend to be more expensive than AC switches (for the same volt/amp rating) because DC will erode the contacts much faster than AC (but I could easily just be missing and/or misunderstanding something). Do y'all have any knowledge/opinion on that? Hippie Dickie--you're just using DC, right?
 
placetime,
lazylathe

lazylathe

Almost there...
Okay so a small update!

Veered away from resisitors for a while now.

Last year i bought a tube heater from China to see what they were all about.
It was large and clumsy and i set it in a box and forgot about it.
Found it a few nights ago and decided to take it apart and see what the Nichrome wire could be used for.
It is spiral wound Nichrome wire.

First i tried it spiral and wrapped it around a test tube, using an LED dimmer and a 16V DC wall wart.
It worked okay...

Then i decided to try straightening the wire and tried again with more coils around the test tube.
This worked really well and i could get the temp in the test tube to over 300 Degrees C!
Time to introduce the Boro tube to some heat to make some dimples to hole the herb in place, no metal here!

Off less that 0,1g i had about 5 large hits of superb tasting vapor!
The nug slowly turned dark brown from the bottom and worked it's way up the nug during progressive hits.

I still need to work on the temperature though as it needs to be higher in order to get good extraction levels.
I crumbled the nug and managed to get one hit from my EVO set at MAX, not very tasty but still some compounds left in the material.

I think once i insulate it so that the heat is more concentrated into the tube i will get better results!
For now the tube and wrappings are just out in the open on a test bed and i think it is heating the surrounding environment more than the inside of the tube.

It is great to be back at it again and actually have some really good success with all glass!
 
ataxian

ataxian

PALE BLUE DOT
lazylathe said:
Okay so a small update!

Veered away from resisitors for a while now.

Last year i bought a tube heater from China to see what they were all about.
It was large and clumsy and i set it in a box and forgot about it.
Found it a few nights ago and decided to take it apart and see what the Nichrome wire could be used for.
It is spiral wound Nichrome wire.

First i tried it spiral and wrapped it around a test tube, using an LED dimmer and a 16V DC wall wart.
It worked okay...

Then i decided to try straightening the wire and tried again with more coils around the test tube.
This worked really well and i could get the temp in the test tube to over 300 Degrees C!
Time to introduce the Boro tube to some heat to make some dimples to hole the herb in place, no metal here!

Off less that 0,1g i had about 5 large hits of superb tasting vapor!
The nug slowly turned dark brown from the bottom and worked it's way up the nug during progressive hits.

I still need to work on the temperature though as it needs to be higher in order to get good extraction levels.
I crumbled the nug and managed to get one hit from my EVO set at MAX, not very tasty but still some compounds left in the material.

I think once i insulate it so that the heat is more concentrated into the tube i will get better results!
For now the tube and wrappings are just out in the open on a test bed and i think it is heating the surrounding environment more than the inside of the tube.

It is great to be back at it again and actually have some really good success with all glass!
Click to expand...
Awesome!
 
Hippie Dickie

Hippie Dickie

The Herbal Cube
Manufacturer
I think once i insulate it so that the heat is more concentrated into the tube i will get better results!
For now the tube and wrappings are just out in the open on a test bed and i think it is heating the surrounding environment more than the inside of the tube.
Click to expand...

i get my 0.012" thick stainless steel sheet (by K&B) from a hobby website - i've also seen it on eBay. makes a great heat shield. it has a shiny surface to direct the radiant heat waves back into the herb.

regarding your previous question - i do find heavy DC current erodes the electrical path - at the negative terminal ... stranded wire will just eat itself through. most of the heavy current paths i use are 0.032" thick copper strips. i anticipate needing to replace the stranded power cable every several years. when the startup temperature rise is less than about 12°F per second (with fully charged batteries) it indicates the current path is reduced.
 
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