Life Saber (LSV) by Elev8 Vehicles

A

anon66

New Member
Does anyone have a suggestion for a cheap bubbler I can get to use with an 18mm m2m setup without having to order internationally?
 
anon66,
AJS

AJS

Calm Consistency
FreddieFresh said:
Did a little experimenting yesterday :science:

I was messing around and discovered that the ELB tophats fit one of my 18/14mm reducers. The tophat holds roughly half of what the EQ screen can making the LSV even more efficient!

https://www.instagram.com/p/BTKeQubFrvF/
Click to expand...
Sick vid man!

anon66 said:
Does anyone have a suggestion for a cheap bubbler I can get to use with an 18mm m2m setup without having to order internationally?
Click to expand...
Thick Ass Glass is good
 
M

mak770

Well-Known Member
I am in the UK and I'm absolutely desperate to find a wand for the lsv! Nobody seems to sell them for a reasonable price. Not happy paying 30 odd dollars for shipping from USA
It's crazy that you can't even get a simple part for these fantastic capes in the uk
 
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cough god

New Member
I had a problem with my V not reaching adequate T's, so i wrapped it in oven paper and thick tissue, and now it runs much hotter, to the point of burning the herbs if wanted. It's fully insulated and the air path is longer.

Tested an entire night on hasn't damaged it.

Has anybody done this yet?
1z18xg7.jpg


Absolutely fantastic vap anyway.

1z18xg7.jpg
 
cough god,
lwien

lwien

Well-Known Member
cough god said:
I had a problem with my V not reaching adequate T's, so i wrapped it in oven paper and thick tissue, and now it runs much hotter, to the point of burning the herbs if wanted. It's fully insulated and the air path is longer.

Tested an entire night on hasn't damaged it.

Has anybody done this yet?
1z18xg7.jpg


Absolutely fantastic vap anyway.

1z18xg7.jpg
Click to expand...

Oh no..........!!!

If you have a heating issue, it's because the heating rod is not pulled out far enough.

Here's what to do. Unplug your LSV. Unscrew the top cap along with the part that contains all the holes and then take off the glass heater cover so that you can get to the heating rod. The heating rod should be pulled out until you can see the following:
ihX1ETX.jpg


Do this by GENTLY and SLOWLY pulling and twisting at the same time. Then reassemble and take off all that tape, for Gods sake, before you fry your vape.
 
Delta3DStudios

Delta3DStudios

Well-Known Member
Accessory Maker
cough god said:
I had a problem with my V not reaching adequate T's, so i wrapped it in oven paper and thick tissue, and now it runs much hotter, to the point of burning the herbs if wanted. It's fully insulated and the air path is longer.

Tested an entire night on hasn't damaged it.

Has anybody done this yet?
1z18xg7.jpg


Absolutely fantastic vap anyway.

1z18xg7.jpg
Click to expand...

Yeah, I'm going to go out on a limb here and say this is extremely dangerous and you shouldn't do that.

The reason why your vaporizer isn't running hot enough is because your heater is falling down into the internal compartment of the vaporizer (this is a known issue with the vaporizer). You need to unscrew the top part of the vaporizer, remove the glass, and then pull up the heater a few CM to it's proper placement.

What you're doing might be helping in the short-term, but you're also trapping the excess heat inside the vaporizer's internal components. You're basically cooking the vaporizer to death. Soon enough the internals of your vaporizer are going to melt down.

Edit - @lwien beat me to it, hahahaha
 
C

cough god

New Member
It was indeed snugged in but just a little, maybe 5 mm. I still feel like wrapping it though. Even with no insulation, covering the lower holes makes air run through a longer pathway and pre-heat when it passes between the alu cage and the outide of the glass tube, from the top to the entrance hole.

Thanks though good info.

Cheers.
 
cough god,
grokit

grokit

well-worn member
cough god said:
It was indeed snugged in but just a little, maybe 5 mm. I still feel like wrapping it though. Even with no insulation, covering the lower holes makes air run through a longer pathway and pre-heat when it passes between the alu cage and the outide of the glass tube, from the top to the entrance hole.

Thanks though good info.

Cheers.
Click to expand...
The wiring in the lsv is pretty good. You just have to worry if the solder is lead-free, rohs-compliant because if it is then it could melt on you. Then if the solder does have lead in it, that's a whole 'nother issue as you could be inhaling a neurotoxin if it off-gasses at these higher than normal internal temperatures. The lsv isn't expensive, and it doesn't retain heat very well so I can understand and appreciate the experimental nature of this. Just try not to expose yourself to too many unnecessary toxins, or burn your dwelling down.

:sherlock:
 
C

cough god

New Member
grokit said:
The wiring in the lsv is pretty good. You just have to worry if the solder is lead-free, rohs-compliant because if it is then it could melt on you. Then if the solder does have lead in it, that's a whole 'nother issue as you could be inhaling a neurotoxin if it off-gasses at these higher than normal internal temperatures. The lsv isn't expensive, and it doesn't retain heat very well so I can understand and appreciate the experimental nature of this. Just try not to expose yourself to too many unnecessary toxins, or burn your dwelling down.

:sherlock:
Click to expand...
Does lead vapor smell? Anyway i left it on for an entire night with full insulation, more like i forgot it lol, and it wasn't damaged. I'm pretty sure i could have cooked breakfast with it the following morning.
 
cough god,
grokit

grokit

well-worn member
cough god said:
Does lead vapor smell? Anyway i left it on for an entire night with full insulation, more like i forgot it lol, and it wasn't damaged. I'm pretty sure i could have cooked breakfast with it the following morning.
Click to expand...
I don't know (and I hope to never find out, first-hand:zombie:), so I googled it :tup:

John-Boy here seems to know what he's talking about:

"...there are no fumes from pure lead until it reaches it's boiling point of 3180 Fahrenheit. The fumes ones smells when casting are from the dross or flux in the lead which should be ventilated away from one breathing them." (emphasis mine)

Here's one about lead-free solder:
"Amazingly, as I quote next, Lead-Free Solder inhalation can lead to pneumonia and a 24-48h flu.
INHALATION: Inhalation of dusts and fumes may cause irritation of the upper respiratory tract. Inhalation of freshly formed metal oxides may cause metal fume fever, a brief (24-48 H) flu-like illness. Inhalation of tin oxide may cause pneumonia.
According to the MSDS from Weller on some of their non-lead solder."

I would definitely do some more research if I was you, before further experimentation.

:sherlock:
 
Last edited:
V

vapor gator

Well-Known Member
DorianGray said:
Anyone have a solution to avoid the dark spots in the middle of the load?
Click to expand...

Dudeee, the black spot plagued me for years. Its so simple once you realize the problem. The water pipe adapter thru hole is to small - or too close to the herb. Just imagine how the air flows through it.

All you have to do is get the screen closer to the ball joint, before the air shrinks down. There are many good ways to prop up the screen, best is probably too get a glass blower to put a few dots around the middle of the bowl. Easiest fix is to just make a spacer out of other screens like Ddave.

Move your material upstream, and enjoy powerful efficient extractions!
 
DorianGray

DorianGray

Well-Known Member
vapor gator said:
Dudeee, the black spot plagued me for years. Its so simple once you realize the problem. The water pipe adapter thru hole is to small - or too close to the herb. Just imagine how the air flows through it.

All you have to do is get the screen closer to the ball joint, before the air shrinks down. There are many good ways to prop up the screen, best is probably too get a glass blower to put a few dots around the middle of the bowl. Easiest fix is to just make a spacer out of other screens like Ddave.

Move your material upstream, and enjoy powerful efficient extractions!
Click to expand...

I appreciate your input. I'm using the WPA. I'm trying to visualize what you're saying. :hmm:
 
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