Phase3 Vaporizers

invertedisdead

PHASE3
Manufacturer
Yeah, I'm using a bowl by Black Leaf which looks similar but is slightly more bulbous.

Agreed on all points you make!

I looked at some US prices for sapphire terp pearls and that gave me the impression that filling that piece with sapphire balls would add several hundred bucks to the price...

Something else that might lower the price could be using rough sapphire stones of around the same diameter ..and that would look pretty cool too, especially if different colours were mixed in...

You are correct that domestic sourced sapphire would add several hundred dollars or more to the price. For that reason I’ve had to resort to using imported sapphires to make it cost effective right now. As much as I would prefer not to, since they are already a mass produced part I accept it for now and am directing my focus on the custom quartz part where the quality control is more important.

I want to do a red, blue, and green mix for some reason, but the green sapphires are very expensive.


Does it have to be a gemstone?
There are ALL kinds of different stones of varying hardness and polishability.
Why not some tumbled granite Or feldspar?

The reason I chose gem is I felt it was the missing piece to the “ball vape” design that my peers missed. It has a good balance of thermal properties that make it excel in this design configuration. It heats more evenly than anything in its class of vaporizer build materials, around double that of titanium - but with a pure inert flavor of a glass type material. It’s density is much higher than borosilicate which allows for stable temperatures during a draw that rarely fluctuate more than a few degrees on my PIDs.

Just for a sanity check I loaded a spare housing up with quartz beads and ran it at the same temperature as my sapphire. Got some great flavor, but I mostly attribute it to a lower air temperature at the same coil temp, due to less efficient heat transfer in the quartz versus sapphire. It takes around 100F+ degrees to get the vapor density up closer to sapphire at 450F. I was pulling some nice hits at 400F coil temp a few days ago, which I guesstimate to be in the 350F range of air temp.

I just got an email that my replacement quartz housings have finally shipped, so hopefully I will have a few quartz parts here shortly. How these come out will play a large role in determining the next direction of this project lol.
 

Haze Mister

Verdant Bloomer
Manufacturer
I think crystals (gems or quartz) add some kind of mojo to the experience as well as having suitable thermal properties and looking sparkly. I guess certain rocks would probably work with a coil but would take much longer to heat up...

Inverted, I am guessing your quartz manufacturer cannot make the heater with the gems encased inside? I'm thinking of how to avoid having a metal screen in there. Alternatively a titanium screen would be preferable, like a bigger version of Dynavap's Ti screen.
 

invertedisdead

PHASE3
Manufacturer
I think crystals (gems or quartz) add some kind of mojo to the experience as well as having suitable thermal properties and looking sparkly. I guess certain rocks would probably work with a coil but would take much longer to heat up...

Inverted, I am guessing your quartz manufacturer cannot make the heater with the gems encased inside? I'm thinking of how to avoid having a metal screen in there. Alternatively a titanium screen would be preferable, like a bigger version of Dynavap's Ti screen.
Yeah, unfortunately you can’t encase the gems because they would crack the quartz from thermal expansion.

I definitely hate having any metal screen, my first design avoided it (in the hot zone) by using what I called the “turbine screen” which was a screen made from push indents, kind of like the spiked cooling stems people are doing, but all coming together from the circumference to meet in the middle forming a glass screen. What I didn’t like about that design is it was a weak point structurally, and I didn’t like the additional distance it pushed the beads from the herb. I think I posted a picture of it in here before. I’m not sure if they can even do those indents in quartz, I watched a video on quartz working lately and it's pretty crazy, gave me a whole new respect for the craft!


Interesting info as always man!

Fingers crossed that the new batch of quartz is all you hope for.

Thank you!

Somehow they already arrived, I've been testing one this afternoon.

For some reason it tastes better and hits harder than my previous ones. Not sure what's going on there, doesn't really make any sense.

To my surprise they ended up doing something completely different, instead of cutting and reattaching the joint to the larger tubing, which I realized later on was a bit of a complication to my design, especially with the switch to quartz; instead they just formed a taper on the 20mm tube body, and I think it's awesome and a much better idea - only problem is the taper doesn't quite fit into my female bowls.... so I have to hold the heater like a lighter since it doesn't really "sit" in the female joint. Not sure what happened there, but if I can get that adjusted so the taper matches the bowl I think I'll be really happy. So the bad news is it looks like there will still be another round of testing... but this adjustment should make these more consistent and easier to build. Other than that flaw on the taper the overall quality seems better, the air inlet holes are CNCd now.


205-E96-E2-D891-41-FF-87-F0-3-F1-BBE4-F64-A9.jpg
 

Vaporware

Well-Known Member
Are you both talking about “encasing” in the same way?

Something tight around the spheres may be a problem, but what about spheres loosely enclosed in a slightly over-height housing? In use they wouldn’t be touching the top, but I’d expect them to pack down pretty tightly against the bottom and sides just due to gravity.

I can think of some ways of getting the balls in after it’s built without using metal, but they may be hard/expensive to implement...maybe using the CNC again... :sherlock:

I also still wonder about threaded parts, but I don’t know if anyone does that with quartz like they do with cheap glass.

I can live with a screen or two for now and I realize it’s a little late in the process to be making big changes to the first version, but for something like this that’s built on the idea of taking metal out of the air/vapor path, of course I’d ideally like to see them go. :)
 

arb

Semi shaved ape
Yeah, unfortunately you can’t encase the gems because they would crack the quartz from thermal expansion.

I definitely hate having any metal screen, my first design avoided it (in the hot zone) by using what I called the “turbine screen” which was a screen made from push indents, kind of like the spiked cooling stems people are doing, but all coming together from the circumference to meet in the middle forming a glass screen. What I didn’t like about that design is it was a weak point structurally, and I didn’t like the additional distance it pushed the beads from the herb. I think I posted a picture of it in here before. I’m not sure if they can even do those indents in quartz, I watched a video on quartz working lately and it's pretty crazy, gave me a whole new respect for the craft!




Thank you!

Somehow they already arrived, I've been testing one this afternoon.

For some reason it tastes better and hits harder than my previous ones. Not sure what's going on there, doesn't really make any sense.

To my surprise they ended up doing something completely different, instead of cutting and reattaching the joint to the larger tubing, which I realized later on was a bit of a complication to my design, especially with the switch to quartz; instead they just formed a taper on the 20mm tube body, and I think it's awesome and a much better idea - only problem is the taper doesn't quite fit into my female bowls.... so I have to hold the heater like a lighter since it doesn't really "sit" in the female joint. Not sure what happened there, but if I can get that adjusted so the taper matches the bowl I think I'll be really happy. So the bad news is it looks like there will still be another round of testing... but this adjustment should make these more consistent and easier to build. Other than that flaw on the taper the overall quality seems better, the air inlet holes are CNCd now.


205-E96-E2-D891-41-FF-87-F0-3-F1-BBE4-F64-A9.jpg
How many did you get in homie?
 

invertedisdead

PHASE3
Manufacturer
Are you both talking about “encasing” in the same way?

Something tight around the spheres may be a problem, but what about spheres loosely enclosed in a slightly over-height housing? In use they wouldn’t be touching the top, but I’d expect them to pack down pretty tightly against the bottom and sides just due to gravity.

I can think of some ways of getting the balls in after it’s built without using metal, but they may be hard/expensive to implement...maybe using the CNC again... :sherlock:

I also still wonder about threaded parts, but I don’t know if anyone does that with quartz like they do with cheap glass.

I can live with a screen or two for now and I realize it’s a little late in the process to be making big changes to the first version, but for something like this that’s built on the idea of taking metal out of the air/vapor path, of course I’d ideally like to see them go. :)

I thought my glass push screen idea was awesome, but it was sized for 4mm beads, even trickier to make for 3mm. And I didn't like that you end up thinning out the sidewall to make it, which was a weak spot right where the coil sat. The only solution to that I could think of definitely involves the CNC, and it goes back to my original design that's taped to my wall. It's just cost prohibitive for me to do it at this moment as its a complex part. Plus you gotta weigh the cost/benefit analysis - once you start using the CNC it might make more sense to start looking in a totally different direction, design wise. It's something I was considering if this one gave me more trouble. Now I'm torn because I quite like what they did, it just needs to be dialed in. But a couple days ago I didn't think I would ever get these parts, and was close to posting about moving on.

When I looked into threaded glass I couldn't really find anyone mating glass to glass, it was always with a dissimilar material, most commonly a plastic lid for thermometer holders in a lab setup, or for jar lids. Threading would otherwise make for some easy alternatives.

How many did you get in homie?

Just three from a prototype run. Now I need to figure out if they can nail it, or if I need to adjust to my plan B.

On that note I'd like to poll the room - how much flower do folks following this thread typically prefer to load per bowl? This info will help me greatly for future design decisions.

Quick test, apologies for the dirty glass, need to get more cleaner.

 

arb

Semi shaved ape
I thought my glass push screen idea was awesome, but it was sized for 4mm beads, even trickier to make for 3mm. And I didn't like that you end up thinning out the sidewall to make it, which was a weak spot right where the coil sat. The only solution to that I could think of definitely involves the CNC, and it goes back to my original design that's taped to my wall. It's just cost prohibitive for me to do it at this moment as its a complex part. Plus you gotta weigh the cost/benefit analysis - once you start using the CNC it might make more sense to start looking in a totally different direction, design wise. It's something I was considering if this one gave me more trouble. Now I'm torn because I quite like what they did, it just needs to be dialed in. But a couple days ago I didn't think I would ever get these parts, and was close to posting about moving on.

When I looked into threaded glass I couldn't really find anyone mating glass to glass, it was always with a dissimilar material, most commonly a plastic lid for thermometer holders in a lab setup, or for jar lids. Threading would otherwise make for some easy alternatives.



Just three from a prototype run. Now I need to figure out if they can nail it, or if I need to adjust to my plan B.

On that note I'd like to poll the room - how much flower do folks following this thread typically prefer to load per bowl? This info will help me greatly for future design decisions.

Quick test, apologies for the dirty glass, need to get more cleaner.

.25 seems my preferred load for one hit and sit.
How was qc across the units are they consistent?
 

Farid

Well-Known Member
Thinking about your ideas for a glass screen (and forgive me if this has already been mentioned) but have you considered a screen that fits in the chamber's body the way a chillum stone fits in a chillum? Basically it's a hexagonal and slightly conical rod fit into the cylindrical walls, so that there is airflow around the edges of the hexagon.

Doing this would eat up some of the volume of the area below the beads, which would change the nature of the flow. Not sure if this change would be beneficial or not though.
 
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seki

Well-Known Member
I generally average around 0.1g give or take. It isn't unusual for me to go up to 0.2-0.3g-ish when I want something a little stronger, but I'd say the majority of my usage is on the lower end.
 

Vaporware

Well-Known Member
@invertedisdead I’ve definitely seen threads on glass parts that were connected to other glass parts, *but* I think they’ve usually had a rubbery material on the threaded areas, so you may be right that no one really uses straight glass on glass threads. I’ve seen it on candles with glass holders and lids for example.

I can also think of some glass “locks” or just simple indentations or bumps that would allow a third piece (maybe a thin-ish ring or even a larger outer shell like the ShowerHead’s coil cover) to lock both pieces into place while in use.

I don’t mean to push you to redesign this version; you’re probably better off getting some produced once they get the last details right on the prototypes, but as you know there are ways of getting rid of those screens if you do any future revisions of this design. :)

As for usage, probably in the 0.05-0.1g range for fast extraction, or 0.1-0.2g range (and occasionally more) for more of a session. I’ll still use the FP for that too, just at lower temps.

I actually wouldn’t mind an even smaller bowl option to really nail 1 hit extraction of an even smaller load without being more vapor than I can comfortably take in a draw, but I’m not sure how many people are looking for that in a device like this. :shrug:
 

invertedisdead

PHASE3
Manufacturer
I like a decent sized bowl personally, especially if you can extract quickly. I don't weigh my loads so for reference I really like my elev8r bowl.

Thank you, this type of info will be useful to help guide future designs!

.25 seems my preferred load for one hit and sit.
How was qc across the units are they consistent?

Thank you!
Yeah I'm actually pretty happy with the build consistency on these ones, seems quite a bit better than the previous batch, the air inlet holes are all clean and even now from the CNC, which was an issue last time, and since there is no actual joint the part looks much cleaner, just needs slightly more of a taper to lock into my female joints.

Thinking about your ideas for a glass screen (and forgive me if this has already been mentioned) but have you considered a screen that fits in the chamber's body the way a chillum stone fits in a chillum? Basically it's a hexagonal and slightly conical rod fit into the cylindrical walls, so that there is airflow around the edges of the hexagon.

Doing this would eat up some of the volume of the area below the beads, which would change the nature of the flow. Not sure if this change would be beneficial or not though.

That's a pretty cool idea! I hadn't really thought of anything like that, my question is: wouldn't it need to be inserted from above so the conical taper of the chillum stone sits into the conical taper of the quartz housing though? If you inserted it from the bottom I'm not sure how it would lock into place, though I just did a breakfast bowl of KushWreck so I might be missing something and crossing a few wires this morning :lol:

I almost shoved a Mighty dosing capsule lid in there as a screen, but that's getting kinda crazy :D

I use between 0.2-0.3g on average, I can do more but I prefer to do multiple sessions instead of one big session, my lungs don't like too much vapor at the same time.

Thank you! One of the reasons I'm curious of peoples preferred amounts, is because I feel like there is an optimization point between amount of herb and a vaporizers design. IIRC the Sublimator was a good example of one that wasn't designed to vape huge bowls, but instead it was optimized to get a deep one hit extraction from a fairly modest amount of flower. This also seems to reduce uneven baking and stirring, from excessive herb acting as insulation. Loaded up a big, probably .5g bowl for a buddy last night and it took a little bit for the vapor to start coming, I was thinking he might have got twice the hit with half the herb.

@invertedisdead I’ve definitely seen threads on glass parts that were connected to other glass parts, *but* I think they’ve usually had a rubbery material on the threaded areas, so you may be right that no one really uses straight glass on glass threads. I’ve seen it on candles with glass holders and lids for example.

I can also think of some glass “locks” or just simple indentations or bumps that would allow a third piece (maybe a thin-ish ring or even a larger outer shell like the ShowerHead’s coil cover) to lock both pieces into place while in use.

I don’t mean to push you to redesign this version; you’re probably better off getting some produced once they get the last details right on the prototypes, but as you know there are ways of getting rid of those screens if you do any future revisions of this design. :)

As for usage, probably in the 0.05-0.1g range for fast extraction, or 0.1-0.2g range (and occasionally more) for more of a session. I’ll still use the FP for that too, just at lower temps.

I actually wouldn’t mind an even smaller bowl option to really nail 1 hit extraction of an even smaller load without being more vapor than I can comfortably take in a draw, but I’m not sure how many people are looking for that in a device like this. :shrug:

Can you post a link to a threaded glass lid, I can't seem to find any? I always seem to only find some sort of plastic or polymer lid, or PTFE. I could probably take a 20mm threaded vial, fill it with beads, put a teflon cap on it and call it "medical grade" :rofl:

Mechanical fastening isn't a bad idea but yeah, probably have to use the CNC for that to keep the tolerance there. The issue with the CNC is the setup fees for a small prototype run add up quickly, and can easily cost more than the actual machined parts. After thinking about it for a long time, my feeling is that its easier to just get rid of the beads entirely then develop an expensive method of retaining them. That's basically where InV2 comes in, which I was close to posting a few days ago, and then strangely these parts arrived.

And I agree about smaller one hit extraction, that's kind of why I wanted to poll the room. :cheers:
Was toying with the idea of a basket screen version. I feel it's important to reduce the effects of inverse square between the distance from the flower to the heater as much as possible.
 

Vaporware

Well-Known Member
Can you post a link to a threaded glass lid, I can't seem to find any? I always seem to only find some sort of plastic or polymer lid, or PTFE. I could probably take a 20mm threaded vial, fill it with beads, put a teflon cap on it and call it "medical grade" :rofl:

I could have accidentally mixed up the green crack with real crack at some point, but I’m 90% sure I’ve seen glass lids screwed onto glass candle jars (with a rubbery coating on the threaded area that we probably wouldn’t want). Unfortunately I can’t find one online or at home right now, so there is some chance I mixed other types of glass lids with the threaded plastic lids... :disgust:

Either way, this doesn’t seem likely to be the best solution if they’re rarely produced for other purposes.

One simple thing that’s easy to find would be basically like a mason jar with a different lid. You’d just have holes in a simple flat glass top and screw down a metal ring that’s got a lip on the top but is empty in the middle. That would still leave hot metal near the air intake, but nothing directly in the air path. :)

With a shelf or even a little bump below the coil and a wide enough rim on the metal part you could even ditch the arm and clip.

I completely understand finishing this off as it’s already designed and just moving on in a little different direction though, especially if you have an idea you think will be better. :)

I really need to look into prototype manufacturing more so I can try some different things too... :sherlock:
 

arb

Semi shaved ape
Here’s one at 480F 👽
I can do it at that temp if I do a warm up hit and then hit it again really,really slowly.
I hate doing that so take a faster hit of around 20 seconds at 600.
No warm up draw just straight vapor,me likey.
Burned myself 3 times already and had to swap pids.
The disorderly conduction was fluctuating wildly so swapped it for the dabpress and problem solved.
No issues running another coil on the dc pid so using it for dabs.......had me scratching my head till I fingered out das issue.
 

Haze Mister

Verdant Bloomer
Manufacturer
What if you moved the CNC'd holes to the bottom, and had a removable glass screen sitting on top?
Judging from my own experiments, this type of vape design works great because you get a solid beam of uniformly hot air exiting the heater. You would need a lot of holes and this is also why a chillum stone would probably not work as well as a screen.

It sounds like the "no metal at all" aspect may not be realistically feasible if using gems inside a quartz enclosure.

In my DIY setup i minimise the use of metal screens by simply leaving the top of the heater wide open, so i can drop the quartz beads in from the top, and they are kept in place by a metal screen wedged into the middle of the 19/14 boro adapter I am using as a heater. Of course this means I have to be careful not to tip the heater over and spill the beads but the tapered shape of the adapter helps (and the beads are very cheap). I use a silicone earplug to close the heater up for storage.
In a commercial product the heater could just have a inner floor just above where the taper starts, with a bunch of 2mm holes drilled through and the open top could be closed with a ball of stainless steel wool which can be left in place during use or removed by the user if they want a purer air path. I'm not sure the performance when using a quartz screen would be as good as with a mesh screen as the airflow would be more restricted.

As for amounts and bowl size.... I think 2-3 different size bowls or a special bowl with notches for raising the screen higher would be best, as consistent results at a given temp are obtained when the herb sits at a partcular distance from the heater. A large bowl with a small amount of herb at the bottom would require a higher temp for a one-hit exraction.


Loaded up a big, probably .5g bowl for a buddy last night and it took a little bit for the vapor to start coming, I was thinking he might have got twice the hit with half the herb
You can always get instant vapor using higher temperatures and shorter tokes to avoid combustion. Kinda like smoking a tobacco pipe.... it is super tasty and the short tokes reduce throat irritation and coughing. I heat my heater up to the limit so that a long toke will produce combustion.
I am using a torch instead of a coil so the heater temp drops significantly during toking, but I saw a comment from an FC member on anoher thread who uses the same technique with the Flowerpot.
 
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invertedisdead

PHASE3
Manufacturer
I could have accidentally mixed up the green crack with real crack at some point, but I’m 90% sure I’ve seen glass lids screwed onto glass candle jars (with a rubbery coating on the threaded area that we probably wouldn’t want). Unfortunately I can’t find one online or at home right now, so there is some chance I mixed other types of glass lids with the threaded plastic lids... :disgust:

Either way, this doesn’t seem likely to be the best solution if they’re rarely produced for other purposes.

One simple thing that’s easy to find would be basically like a mason jar with a different lid. You’d just have holes in a simple flat glass top and screw down a metal ring that’s got a lip on the top but is empty in the middle. That would still leave hot metal near the air intake, but nothing directly in the air path. :)

With a shelf or even a little bump below the coil and a wide enough rim on the metal part you could even ditch the arm and clip.

I completely understand finishing this off as it’s already designed and just moving on in a little different direction though, especially if you have an idea you think will be better. :)

I really need to look into prototype manufacturing more so I can try some different things too... :sherlock:

That's actually a pretty cool idea for a lid, my only reservation is since mason jars are cast, it might be harder to hit those tolerances with a hand worked part. You could machine the threads, but everything else would still need to be true, particularly the diameters. I have a feeling the machining could get expensive though. That's been the big revelation for me over the last year learning with this project, a great design that's cost prohibitive or too complicated to build is hard to get off the ground. Even this vape which looks very simple (IMO) has proven to be more complicated than I would have predicted. I think a lot of that comes from just not understanding glass design principals. Now that I have a better idea of what can be done it changes the landscape, so to speak. For example, now I can understand why the elev8r was a great design, it's done right out of stock tubing the joint is formed on, which makes it much more cost effective to build.
I focused so much on user benefits with my design - easily removable for cleaning, secure attachment, higher airflow,etc: but overlooked ease of manufacturability.
I think I also put a little too much faith in the "scientific glassblowing" - the guys are amazing and do the best they can, but it's just not capable of the ultra consistent, uber tight tolerances of a machined product, or even a handworked product like wood, where repeatability is easier to obtain. It's hard to even take a measurement when working with Quartz, if you watched the video I posted above, the woman is practically wearing a fire suit while working on her art.

Also the reality that I never really anticipated that people could just put beads in all these other vapes. I took too long and didn't rush to market and now it's not as unique as it was. Even people who mocked me for my decision to use rubies are using them now.

As far as prototyping, it runs the full spectrum. My very first design I was serious about building, which was basically a Quartz flowerpot, which is basically now the Deskpod, was around $3500 in setup and around $300 a piece. Which meant they would have likely needed to sell for around $700. The first glass prototype I posted in this thread I had built for around $40. That's when I really felt I could still compete with the elev8r. I don't think they had released the WPA only kit either yet. When I switched to Quartz everything got way more expensive.



What if you moved the CNC'd holes to the bottom, and had a removable glass screen sitting on top?

Like this:

View attachment 5350

That's a pretty cool idea too! :cheers: I think the glass insert would have to be machined to fit well, the question would be if the diameters of the housing are still true enough after hot working to hold it. It seems like the easiest way to keep the tolerance is to not heat the part up at all, which was kind of my inspiration for InV2. It would lose some of the unique features of this vape for ease of manufacturing though, but maybe it would be more cost effective which would offset it, that was kind of the idea. With this vape, if the housing broke for whatever reason it would be disappointing, inV2 was based off a standard joint and the idea that if it broke, it would be a cheap and simple replacement. You can basically see that in the Herborizer Ti versus XL; Ti was designed to use super basic off the shelf glass where the XL is more complicated to build or replace.

In an early, more "open source" design of this vape when I was going to use a carbon filter, the idea was the spikes would act as a screen, and the beads could be loaded from up top through the female joint, enclosed with a glass stopper with holes (Ddave sells a part like this)
and that would be secured with a Keck clip. I abandoned that idea when I figured I could reduce the footprint by over an inch and achieve the same functionality with a custom part, especially since I was looking at building a custom part anyway, since I couldn't find an off the shelf
carbon filter built to the dimensions I needed.

image.jpg


I can do it at that temp if I do a warm up hit and then hit it again really,really slowly.
I hate doing that so take a faster hit of around 20 seconds at 600.
No warm up draw just straight vapor,me likey.
Burned myself 3 times already and had to swap pids.
The disorderly conduction was fluctuating wildly so swapped it for the dabpress and problem solved.
No issues running another coil on the dc pid so using it for dabs.......had me scratching my head till I fingered out das issue.

Did you burn yourself on the coil? I would like to eventually drop the coil with this vape, got a few ideas but nothing set in stoned.
This one is ripping pretty easily as long as the screen is in the right spot. Since the joint doesnt quite sit in the bowl the vapor stream is still further away from the load then it would ideally be. I can push the screen damn near to the top like a basket screen though, as I did in my last video and that brings the vapor on pretty quickly.
 

invertedisdead

PHASE3
Manufacturer
Judging from my own experiments, this type of vape design works great because you get a solid beam of uniformly hot air exiting the heater. You would need a lot of holes and this is also why a chillum stone would probably not work as well as a screen.

It sounds like the "no metal at all" aspect may not be realistically feasible if using gems inside a quartz enclosure.

In my DIY setup i minimise the use of metal screens by simply leaving the top of the heater wide open, so i can drop the quartz beads in from the top, and they are kept in place by a metal screen wedged into the middle of the 19/14 boro adapter I am using as a heater. Of course this means I have to be careful not to tip the heater over and spill the beads but the tapered shape of the adapter helps. I use a silicone earplug to close the heater up for storage.
In a commercial product the heater could just have a inner floor just above where the taper starts, with a bunch of 2mm holes drilled through and the top could be closed with a ball of stainless steel wool which can be left in place during use or removed by the user if they want a purer air path. I'm not sure the performance when using a quartz screen would be as good as with a mesh screen as the airflow would be more restricted.

As for amounts and bowl size.... I think 2-3 different size bowls or a special bowl with notches for raising the screen higher would be best, as consistent results at a given temp are obtained when the herb sits at a partcular distance forom the heater. A large bowl with a small amount of herb at the bottom would require a higher temp for a one-hit exraction.

I sometimes wonder if the air would churn up more turbulence over the herb if the mesh screen didn't straighten out the airflow?
It's definitely tricky to remove the metal completely, honestly I feel like my earlier designs captured the concept well, it just wasn't as effective in real live as it was on paper, but I do hate the thought of having any metal in such a clean path, even if it is a really small amount of it.

or a special bowl with notches for raising the screen higher would be best, as consistent results at a given temp are obtained when the herb sits at a partcular distance forom the heater.

This aligns with a design I added to the portfolio yesterday for vaporizers of this style. Basically what I was thinking is a machined tapered insert which would fit into the female part of a 19mm adapter for adding conduction to the load for hybrid effect, with a built in screen to remove metal filters. It wouldn't be able to hold a ton of herb, but I think it would make a very effective platform. My new thoughts are taking advantage of stock quartz or boro parts, but pimping them out with custom components to find a middleground between performance, price, and purity - The Three P's.

Hell.......use fritted quartz instead of beads and no screen.......or holes required?

That was an early idea, the problem is they are too thick causing draw restriction, I basically need a wafer of a fritted disk but you can't really build them like that. Another early design was to build the entire vaporizer internals out of frit or quartz beads and fuse it to the housing for no moving parts. I thought that was a real gamechanger, but I couldn't get anybody to build it.
Here's an old doodle from last April.

image.png



sorry for double post - 10,000 character limit.
 

arb

Semi shaved ape
Two on the arm reaching over it while it was on the stand and one one the forehead......leaned into it on a piece.
😂
Edit for,
Make it 4 now........for fucks sake.
😾
Put the Alpha on the same piece and it is much better on every way except flavor.
The flavor is better through the elev8r but not by enough to make it a daily for me.
🙃
 
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