Discontinued Impcognito

D

Deleted member 66001

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Far too much trial and error. But like I said in another post, I was doing everything backwards for like 6 months before I realized it, inhaling slow when it should of been faster and vice versa. I also changed my TC value way to much (the .210 one), and it was a constant up and down battle of trying to get the two numbers (.210/130) to be cohesive together every night. Sorry, I have no idea what the 130 number is called.

I chose those two settings because they were the highest and lowest settings I had left in my profile, and I was just trying to show the range that I was vaping at with still perfect abv. The only thing I think I can say with any certainty is that your draw speed is EVERYTHING. On my istick pico my cold resistance was .200, and 188 was the highest number I could get to before the abv looked less than perfect, and also before it became uncomfortable for my lungs and breathing to hold up. I would recommend you see what your cold resistance is and try to stay somewhere very close to that. Then you'll only have to screw around with the other number, and your draw speed!!!, instead of jockeying back and forth between two numbers and draw speed every night.

I'm not sure if this is sound advice or not, but I would see what your cold resistance is and set it at .05 higher. That to me is still within the realm of staying close to your true TC #, and since you said your just starting to see visible vapor, that would give you a little boost in the heat department without going over by a crazy amount. Then pick a number for the other number - the one I have at 130 and 188 - (god, I wish I knew what that number was called, lol)............and then start with a fairly strongish steady pull throughout the hit. I say strongish because the slower you pull, if the number you picked is too high, your gonna combust, and nobody wants that! From there, it's just a matter of narrowing down that number with what your seeing on the top of your load (dark or light), and your draw speed. I was initially trying other peoples settings, and to be honest, I found it pretty useless. There's just no way to know what there "style" is, and more importantly, it may not match your style whatsoever. You can copy someone's settings all day long because they say "I get perfect abv everytime"........but if they're taking a fast pull and you want a slow pull........well...........that just ain't gonna work, lol.

As far as coil damage, there are faaaaar better people (@KeroZen) to talk about that than me. The only thing I can say that I believe to be accurate is if your coils aren't glowing then your fine. I don't think it matters a whole lot how high your numbers are, just as long as your breathing intake speed is fast enough to compensate for a higher TC value.

I know you said you weren't a noob when it comes to box mods, so I hope you don't think I was trying to dumb anything down for you, I just wrote what came to my head. I HATE the whole "testing" type sessions......there anything but relaxing for me........so if your like me, I totally feel for ya. Good luck and don't hesitate with more questions.
 

CanikUser19

Trenchtown Rock
Far too much trial and error. But like I said in another post, I was doing everything backwards for like 6 months before I realized it, inhaling slow when it should of been faster and vice versa. I also changed my TC value way to much (the .210 one), and it was a constant up and down battle of trying to get the two numbers (.210/130) to be cohesive together every night. Sorry, I have no idea what the 130 number is called.

I chose those two settings because they were the highest and lowest settings I had left in my profile, and I was just trying to show the range that I was vaping at with still perfect abv. The only thing I think I can say with any certainty is that your draw speed is EVERYTHING. On my istick pico my cold resistance was .200, and 188 was the highest number I could get to before the abv looked less than perfect, and also before it became uncomfortable for my lungs and breathing to hold up. I would recommend you see what your cold resistance is and try to stay somewhere very close to that. Then you'll only have to screw around with the other number, and your draw speed!!!, instead of jockeying back and forth between two numbers and draw speed every night.

I'm not sure if this is sound advice or not, but I would see what your cold resistance is and set it at .05 higher. That to me is still within the realm of staying close to your true TC #, and since you said your just starting to see visible vapor, that would give you a little boost in the heat department without going over by a crazy amount. Then pick a number for the other number - the one I have at 130 and 188 - (god, I wish I knew what that number was called, lol)............and then start with a fairly strongish steady pull throughout the hit. I say strongish because the slower you pull, if the number you picked is too high, your gonna combust, and nobody wants that! From there, it's just a matter of narrowing down that number with what your seeing on the top of your load (dark or light), and your draw speed. I was initially trying other peoples settings, and to be honest, I found it pretty useless. There's just no way to know what there "style" is, and more importantly, it may not match your style whatsoever. You can copy someone's settings all day long because they say "I get perfect abv everytime"........but if they're taking a fast pull and you want a slow pull........well...........that just ain't gonna work, lol.

As far as coil damage, there are faaaaar better people (@KeroZen) to talk about that than me. The only thing I can say that I believe to be accurate is if your coils aren't glowing then your fine. I don't think it matters a whole lot how high your numbers are, just as long as your breathing intake speed is fast enough to compensate for a higher TC value.

I know you said you weren't a noob when it comes to box mods, so I hope you don't think I was trying to dumb anything down for you, I just wrote what came to my head. I HATE the whole "testing" type sessions......there anything but relaxing for me........so if your like me, I totally feel for ya. Good luck and don't hesitate with more questions.
Thank you for the info, this will be very helpful. I definitely was not aware that draw speed was that important with the Impcognito. I tend to draw slowly as a preference, but will definitely play around with a faster draw and see if it puts me closer to where I want to be. I've spent far too much time messing with it in TC mode this weekend, but switching to wattage mode definitely works, so I have that as a fall back. I've just been using CBD flower as I try to get it dialed in, it's much cheaper and I can maintain my focus as I blow through several stems as I try to get it dialed in. I appreciate all of the assistance, I'll get back at it in a few days.
 
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Deleted member 66001

Guest
Thank you for the info, this will be very helpful. I definitely was not aware that draw speed was that important with the Impcognito. I tend to draw slowly as a preference, but will definitely play around with a faster draw and see if it puts me closer to where I want to be. I've spent far too much time messing with it in TC mode this weekend, but switching to wattage mode definitely works, so I have that as a fall back. I've just been using CBD flower as I try to get it dialed in, it's much cheaper and I can maintain my focus as I blow through several stems as I try to get it dialed in. I appreciate all of the assistance, I'll get back at it in a few days.

I've never tried wattage before, but I do have a Stempod Si arriving that I'm gonna use for wattage only, and hopefully experiment with some different coils. I ordered the Si to be my guinea pig of sorts, it was stupid cheap after discounts.

Unless I'm wrong, I think draw speed is important on every convection vape, regulated or not. I mean in wattage mode I'm assuming how you handle your draw speed is still important - if you turn your watts up to 100 and you draw slow, your gonna combust I assume? And you don't have to play around with a faster draw speed if you want to use a slower one...........you'd just have to adjust your numbers lower. That's why you should somewhat settle on the TC # first, it's just one less thing to have to manipulate. And heat can change much more quickly than you think, especially the longer you draw, so don't think you have to go massively in either direction with draw speed......changing it in very little increments can be the difference between perfect abv, and a hot spot or greenery around the edges. I hope you get it, because even though there's alot more variables to maneuver around with TC mode.......once you get it.....and then add autofire into the mix......................soooooo easy & relaxing!!

I hope I'm giving you decent advice, there could be 50 people reading this that think I have it all wrong.......but that's the thing, I really don't think there's one all encompassing tidy little box way of having to figure it out. We all handle directions and variances within them differently, and those other 50 people could be like "Noooo, you should start with that other # first, and then work the TC value up or down to your liking!!", lol.

Someone please tell me what these two damn different numbers are called so I can stop calling them "that first number" and "that second number"!!
 

CanikUser19

Trenchtown Rock
I've never tried wattage before, but I do have a Stempod Si arriving that I'm gonna use for wattage only, and hopefully experiment with some different coils. I ordered the Si to be my guinea pig of sorts, it was stupid cheap after discounts.

Unless I'm wrong, I think draw speed is important on every convection vape, regulated or not. I mean in wattage mode I'm assuming how you handle your draw speed is still important - if you turn your watts up to 100 and you draw slow, your gonna combust I assume? And you don't have to play around with a faster draw speed if you want to use a slower one...........you'd just have to adjust your numbers lower. That's why you should somewhat settle on the TC # first, it's just one less thing to have to manipulate. And heat can change much more quickly than you think, especially the longer you draw, so don't think you have to go massively in either direction with draw speed......changing it in very little increments can be the difference between perfect abv, and a hot spot or greenery around the edges. I hope you get it, because even though there's alot more variables to maneuver around with TC mode.......once you get it.....and then add autofire into the mix......................soooooo easy & relaxing!!

I hope I'm giving you decent advice, there could be 50 people reading this that think I have it all wrong.......but that's the thing, I really don't think there's one all encompassing tidy little box way of having to figure it out. We all handle directions and variances within them differently, and those other 50 people could be like "Noooo, you should start with that other # first, and then work the TC value up or down to your liking!!", lol.

Someone please tell me what these two damn different numbers are called so I can stop calling them "that first number" and "that second number"!!
Yeah my problem is my first vapes were a Pax2 and a Solo2 and I can just slow sip on those, just got my first 510 vape last month, so gotta get the technique down. Got the Splinter Z dialed in fairly quickly and I'm enjoying TC through Red Panda on it, just trying to get it going on this Impcognito. I'm getting closer every time I fire it up, so I should get there soon. Even bought extra mods so I can have a dedicated mod running Red Panda for each 510 device so I don't fuck up my setups, or strip connectors, by constantly switching devices.

That "first number" I think you are referring to is the coil resistance. The "second number" is the TCR (Temperature Coefficient of Resistance) value. If I'm understanding your question correctly.
 

BeeSawd

Well-Known Member
Inner diameter yes, OD is much more important for a male piece like this, the OD's identical, try it yourself if you dont believe me, using it now ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
 

GoldenBud

Well-Known Member
Just a heads-up the Lotus (vape) bowl works perfectly with the Imp,/impcog in fact i think it works BETTER than the stock WPA by a mile.
picture please? so the gap between the herb and the coil is bigger ye?
 
GoldenBud,

Shit Snacks

Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
Inner diameter yes, OD is much more important for a male piece like this, the OD's identical, try it yourself if you dont believe me, using it now ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Yeah can you share a photo? I can't remember exactly which box my Lotus is in, do not feel like digging it out at all for this lol Just by memory, I really did not think OD for imp stem and Lotus bowl is the same... Yeah I'm just going by memories so can't trust it, but still shocked it can fit in the o-rings!
 
Shit Snacks,

seki

Well-Known Member
I can confirm, it works well with mine:
impcognito-lotusw-pa.jpg
 

GoldenBud

Well-Known Member
So the OD of the Imp/Impcognito is the same, right? the wpa will work with both of them? I will try this method asap... with Imp
 
GoldenBud,

BeeSawd

Well-Known Member
Looking for replacement o-rings, the one that came on my deck was damaged on arrival and i'd like to replace it, any idea what size to use?
 
BeeSawd,

Zuhdj

Charles Mingus
Do y’all think I could make a mesh coil that’d work with this? The klaptons seem to work well but I think I could make something better even if I need to use it in wattage mode. Is there a way to try without messing up the stock coils?
 
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mistvaporizer

Well-Known Member
Manufacturer
Do y’all think I could make a mesh coil that’d work with this? The klaptons seem to work well but I think I could make something better even if I need to use it in wattage mode. Is there a way to try without messing up the stock coils?
Hey usually the coil end gets beat up when you remove them.
I haven't tried mesh so not sure how that will work out.
 

mistvaporizer

Well-Known Member
Manufacturer
It's there a way to go to wattage mode while running tubo? I thought there was an easy way to switch but i can't find it
 
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