stinkmeaner
Well-Known Member
Seem like a good opportunity to use a VHW Glass Heater Cover.
Homemade Vaporizers
- Thread starter Revolution9
- Start date
Egzoset
Banned
Here's an old foreign article but i love this drawing:
http://cultivaindoor.wordpress.com/2008/08/03/vaporizador-casero/
http://cultivaindoor.wordpress.com/2008/08/03/vaporizador-casero/
VWFringe
Naruto Fan
EDIT: I'VE REPLACED THE SS PACKING WITH A CIRCLIP OF SS WIRE I MADE MYSELF, AND THE BRASS SCREEN JUST HAS TO BE FOLDED INTO A CIRCLE AND STUFFED DOWN ONTO THE CIRCLIP...
i wonder about that temp control - how quick or well it will work, be interesting
here;'s a pic of my homemade whip (spherical HC on order still)...
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that is a cool drawing, like mouse-trap
i wonder about that temp control - how quick or well it will work, be interesting
here;'s a pic of my homemade whip (spherical HC on order still)...
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Egzoset said:
that is a cool drawing, like mouse-trap
2clicker
Observer
VWFringe said:
not sure, but ill be sure to let FC know. my 556SE should be here tomorrow.
i contacted Hakko about the 556SE and they are saying its only a "special release" and that a new permanent model will be coming out to fill the void.
awesome
im gonna get together with a local glass guy and get my all glass air path HC for hakkos made up.
*EDIT*
i got the 556SE today and its everything i hoped it would be so far. its got some great little features making it even better.
pics and short review tomorrow
2clicker
Observer
here is my hakko vape iron V2. its basically the same as my other, but with the temp control built into the handle of the iron. no dimmer box and all that so its much more portable.
its Hakko model #556SE. the SE stands for "special edition" although im not sure why. i believe this iron to have been available in Japan for some time, but is just now making it to the states. thanks for pointing that out stink. i have contacted Hakko and have been told that there is a permanent replacement for this iron coming for the US, but no timetable on when it will be available.
now onto the 556SE... the dial on the handle does have "clicks", but you can still set it in between the clicks to tweak the temp if needed. there is an red LED on it that will light up solid when heating up, will flash when at your temp, and will go out when cooling down. this is a very nice feature. this way you always know when its ready to go. heat up is about a minute and as for the thermal recovery... its amazingly fast. faster than my 456 Hakko which is crazy cuz that puppy stays at its temp well. another plus is that the outer sleeve is a smaller diameter so the DBV HC fits on it almost perfectly. i did still have to use the extreme high temp silicone to couple it, but probably didnt NEED to. i did it for personal pref.
the ceramic heating element itself is about half the diameter of my 456 (1/4"), but is almost identical to the element in my DBV (1/8").
here are the pics
ok so how well does it work you ask? incredibly... this lil guy is my new fave. ive been getting GIANT rips using it.
so there you have it. any questions?
its Hakko model #556SE. the SE stands for "special edition" although im not sure why. i believe this iron to have been available in Japan for some time, but is just now making it to the states. thanks for pointing that out stink. i have contacted Hakko and have been told that there is a permanent replacement for this iron coming for the US, but no timetable on when it will be available.
now onto the 556SE... the dial on the handle does have "clicks", but you can still set it in between the clicks to tweak the temp if needed. there is an red LED on it that will light up solid when heating up, will flash when at your temp, and will go out when cooling down. this is a very nice feature. this way you always know when its ready to go. heat up is about a minute and as for the thermal recovery... its amazingly fast. faster than my 456 Hakko which is crazy cuz that puppy stays at its temp well. another plus is that the outer sleeve is a smaller diameter so the DBV HC fits on it almost perfectly. i did still have to use the extreme high temp silicone to couple it, but probably didnt NEED to. i did it for personal pref.
the ceramic heating element itself is about half the diameter of my 456 (1/4"), but is almost identical to the element in my DBV (1/8").
here are the pics
ok so how well does it work you ask? incredibly... this lil guy is my new fave. ive been getting GIANT rips using it.
so there you have it. any questions?
stinkmeaner
Well-Known Member
Wow that really looks better than the old set up with the giant dimmer. To get an idea on how hot you are running the element, what number are you keeping the dial at?
2clicker
Observer
stinkmeaner said:
great question... i should have stated this
the dial goes from 0-9 so im quite positive that the numbers arent directly related to a specific temp
i have found that starting a bowl out at the 6 works well, but the hits may be considered thin by some. this works well for conservation. so after hitting it a few times with good success on 6 i bumped it to 7. the result was a very thick vapor. and it chalked pretty quickly using my 12" beaker. in fact the hit was so stout that i questioned if i had combusted even though i didnt taste any smoke. so i looked and was quite happy that i had not. not even close. i continued to rip it on 7 until the bowl was kicked. again no combustion... just a nice golden brown abv.
since then i have used it between the 6 and 7 "clicks" with great results as well.
i have yet to turn it up to 8 or higher to try to vape with. i did though set it to max setting for about 20 minutes before using as a vape.
Egzoset
Banned
I finally found the web page where the numbers are made available by this manufacturer:
http://www.hakkostainedglass.com/sg_irons.htm
At 6 the temperature would be around 390C (733F) at the tip or the iron while at 7 it should reach 427C (800F) - but keep in mind there's no iron tip...
The element's cynlindrical shape is far from ideal for heating air efficiently, on the other hand there's no tip in your application. Euh...
I suppose we can assume that the air which hits your favourite blend has a temperature somewhere near the 390C - 427C range but i have to wonder if it's higher, lower, and by how much. A radiator with many fins to maximize surface contact would provide better heat transfer and hence probably heat the air more quickly too (and perhaps more accurately because of the added thermal mass).
Which makes me think of another question: what's the power rating in Watts?
Is it sufficient to compensate for temperature drops between inhalations?
Finally, i can't but notice that the circuitry includes two potentiometers. Imagine if their purpose were to set the minimum and maximum temperatures... By ajusting them it might be possible to gain accuracy but the picture is too blurred to get more hints from the details. I don't know if that assumtion is correct but if it should happen to be then each step can be made much narrower than the present 19C (66.6F) span!
http://www.hakkostainedglass.com/sg_irons.htm
At 6 the temperature would be around 390C (733F) at the tip or the iron while at 7 it should reach 427C (800F) - but keep in mind there's no iron tip...
The element's cynlindrical shape is far from ideal for heating air efficiently, on the other hand there's no tip in your application. Euh...
I suppose we can assume that the air which hits your favourite blend has a temperature somewhere near the 390C - 427C range but i have to wonder if it's higher, lower, and by how much. A radiator with many fins to maximize surface contact would provide better heat transfer and hence probably heat the air more quickly too (and perhaps more accurately because of the added thermal mass).
Which makes me think of another question: what's the power rating in Watts?
Is it sufficient to compensate for temperature drops between inhalations?
Finally, i can't but notice that the circuitry includes two potentiometers. Imagine if their purpose were to set the minimum and maximum temperatures... By ajusting them it might be possible to gain accuracy but the picture is too blurred to get more hints from the details. I don't know if that assumtion is correct but if it should happen to be then each step can be made much narrower than the present 19C (66.6F) span!
Revvy
Well-Known Member
The listed temperature is the temperature of the soldering iron tip, not the element itself. Temperature regulation is also completely inaccurate once the wand has been stripped down for use as a vaporizer. It's my assumption based on my own experience with the 936 that not having all of that metal(Tip, external heatcover, and internal heatcover) in place allows significantly more heat to reach the thermometer. The system adjusts by significantly lowering power. Personally, I have my 936 set for 896 degrees, the max setting, and the system manually recalibrate to the highest setting. What should be disastrously hot doesn't get hot enough to combust the materials in my SSV wand, despite intentionally trying to.Egzoset said:
While the units don't know what temperature they're really at, they are still able to detect changes in temperature just fine. It compensates for losses in temperature by increase power to the element very well.
2clicker
Observer
Egzoset said:
well i will tell you from experience that at the 6 you do get vapor, but some would probably consider it a bit thin
on the 7 setting you get a nice thick vapor with no combustion at all. i would be inclined to say that the 8 setting might be a bit much in my situation (DBV glass) but between 8 and 9 works perfectly for my EHLE bowl on my tube. in this case the herb is farther away from the heat so the element must be set hotter. youd be surprised at how much of a difference a half an inch makes in this regard.
and in my review i think i stated where you can set the dial between "notches" or numbers
the LED will stay lit solid when heating up, will flash when at desired temp, and will be blank when cooling down
this way you always know when its prime to hit it, but the heat recovery is so fast that its always ready to hit
been using it all day with a whip and a 12" beaker with wonderful results
as for the potentiometers... i think you are correct. its almost as if there is no temp drop from inhaling its that fast.
2clicker said:
^^^^^^^^^^^^
i got this info directly from hakko
but again its the tip temp rating so...
2clicker
Observer
Egzoset said:Temperature sure remains the main unknown parameter here despite all of the guessing but i was also curious about the iron's power rating (Watts), in case a reader might want to experiment with whatever is available locally...
50 Watts
id like to see someone do something with that Goot iron that stink posted earlier in this thread...
before i do
i believe the Goot was 70 Watts
stinkmeaner
Well-Known Member
Here are some better pictures of the Goot iron, some of which show the PCB assembly. I would think the Goot would be an excellent choice since they are in the same range as Hakko.
Hakko surely rules the Marijuana community but they definitely don't rule the high end soldering applications, that position is held by JBC, ERSA, Pace, Metcal, and some others. So there are endless choices for some nice irons to adapt, some of which have external thermocouple wires, these wires could possibly be attached to the inside wall of the glass heater cover for a more accurate temperature reading.
Here is the Ersa I like, check out the wire thermocouple wrapped around the shaft. I would strip it to the ceramic and attach the wire on the inside or outer part of the glass.
Hakko surely rules the Marijuana community but they definitely don't rule the high end soldering applications, that position is held by JBC, ERSA, Pace, Metcal, and some others. So there are endless choices for some nice irons to adapt, some of which have external thermocouple wires, these wires could possibly be attached to the inside wall of the glass heater cover for a more accurate temperature reading.
Here is the Ersa I like, check out the wire thermocouple wrapped around the shaft. I would strip it to the ceramic and attach the wire on the inside or outer part of the glass.
2clicker
Observer
stinkmeaner said:
good shit stink
how did you find the ersa and the others? before getting into this shit i never needed a soldering iron so all the MFGs and models are new to me. ive searched for adjustable temp irons and dont really find much except those really cheap clear plastic joints.
just curious
stinkmeaner
Well-Known Member
I intern at a company that has soldering irons of all make & models. I have not used the Ersa that I pictured but I have used the stations and they are excellent made in Germany quality. There is a company in Spain called JBC that makes a adjustable temperature model called the SL 2020, they make some of the best stations right now so I figure the variable temp in handle version should also be pretty good. The JBC is about half of what the ERSA.
khalifafan
Well-Known Member
Found some interesting glass fittings:
2clicker
Observer
khalifafan said:
here you go... all the borosillicate glass with GonG fittings you could wish for
http://www.wilmad-labglass.com/category/1857
http://www.aceglass.com/results.php
http://www.chemglass.com/start.asp
http://quarkglass.thomasnet.com/category/general-glassware-and-parts
https://www.spectrumchemical.com/OA...ers§ion=17783&minisite=10020&respid=50577
there are more if you google "lab glassware" or similar