Multi-brand HEALTHY RIPS FURY

WoodVillain

Backwoods Rated
The silicone cover is easy to clean. Just rinse it with water and pat dry. Dirt comes right off.

If the glass accessories are loose when the heater is cold you may want to contact healthy rips. On occasion the glass can be sized slightly off. They are helpful and good to deal with.


Thanks bud! I sent them a message. The bubbler is definitely too loose regardless of temp... it just spins freely inside the chamber.


Other than that the vape itself works great. Reminds me of arizer products but with less draw resistance. Good flavor after the first few bowls. Nice amount of visible vapor too. If the fury last as long as the arizer products then they are an amazing value.

I'm enjoying starting at 410 then bumping up to 420 until I stop getting vapor. I've tried cooler temp hits but for me they were underwhelming. Tasty but wispy and very mild. I like high temp thick hits. I've also tried going up to 430... but that's after 420 and I don't really get much by that point.

It's a great session vape. Its not as hard of a hitter as my favorite vapcaps, but definitely pushes the herb way further and gives more hits per load. Every hit I'm surprised I'm still getting vapor. And the flavor last for the majority of the session.



So I'm happy so far. Will see how it holds up and what kind of battery life I get... but initial impression is great as a session vape.
 

Stu

Maconheiro
Staff member
I'm not sure why there is such an aversion around here to soaking silicone in iso.:hmm: Many plastics and rubbers do not play nice with iso. Silicone is not one of them. I've tested this with a piece of silicone whip tubing by soaking it in 99% iso for a week and there was zero degradation. I haven't tested the HR gasket, but if it's good silicone it shouldn't be affected by an iso soak. No need to remove the screen to soak in iso imo.:2c:

:peace:
 

Ramahs

Fucking Combustion (mostly) Since February 2017
Thanks bud! I sent them a message. The bubbler is definitely too loose regardless of temp... it just spins freely inside the chamber.


Other than that the vape itself works great. Reminds me of arizer products but with less draw resistance. Good flavor after the first few bowls. Nice amount of visible vapor too. If the fury last as long as the arizer products then they are an amazing value.

I'm enjoying starting at 410 then bumping up to 420 until I stop getting vapor. I've tried cooler temp hits but for me they were underwhelming. Tasty but wispy and very mild. I like high temp thick hits. I've also tried going up to 430... but that's after 420 and I don't really get much by that point.

It's a great session vape. Its not as hard of a hitter as my favorite vapcaps, but definitely pushes the herb way further and gives more hits per load. Every hit I'm surprised I'm still getting vapor. And the flavor last for the majority of the session.



So I'm happy so far. Will see how it holds up and what kind of battery life I get... but initial impression is great as a session vape.

Yeah, you shouldn't even be able to insert the glass when the vape is cooled off. You should have to heat the bowl to get it in, and it's still has a reasonable amount of friction at that point.

I've gotten in the habit of one 4-minute heat cycle at 380F, and then one 4-minute heat cycle at 425F clears the bowl. If the bud id super crystally, or if I pack the bowl extra full, I do two heat cycles at 3980F before bumping up to 425F for the final heat cycle.


I'm not sure why there is such an aversion around here to soaking silicone in iso.:hmm: Many plastics and rubbers do not play nice with iso. Silicone is not one of them. I've tested this with a piece of silicone whip tubing by soaking it in 99% iso for a week and there was zero degradation. I haven't tested the HR gasket, but if it's good silicone it shouldn't be affected by an iso soak. No need to remove the screen to soak in iso imo.:2c:

:peace:

While true, I don't usually feel the need to soak silicone. A bit of q-tipping cleans it off. Though, with larger silicone pieces, like my silicone wand/whip hoses (like for me DBV or SSV), I just replace them when they get dirty.
 

LesPlenty

Well-Known Member
Company Rep
I believe silicon absorbs the soapy smell if washed in normal dishwashing liquid, I like Iso, 5 mins in 99.9% Iso suspended in a test tube in my ultrasonic cleaner that is full of water, then 15-30 mins in the water-filled ultrasonic cleaner for a flush. I do this with the same iso until it looks full of oils and evap the iso to leave my honey reclaim.
 
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Ramahs

Fucking Combustion (mostly) Since February 2017
I believe silicon absorbs the soapy smell if washed in normal dishwashing liquid, I like Iso, 5 mins in 99.9% Iso suspended in a test tube in my ultrasonic cleaner that is full of water, then 15-30 mins in the water-filled ultrasonic cleaner for a flush. I do this with the same iso until it looks full of oils and evap the iso to leave my honey reclaim.

Like I said...I just wipe the damn thing off with a q-tip or rag with some iso on it. Takes thirty-seconds or less.
You all sure seem to be looking to go to a lot of extra unnecessary work, it would seem to me at least.
 

hinglemccringleberry

Well-Known Member
Like I said...I just wipe the damn thing off with a q-tip or rag with some iso on it. Takes thirty-seconds or less.
You all sure seem to be looking to go to a lot of extra unnecessary work, it would seem to me at least.
Lol agreed but it depends on much people let it go. You and I wouldnt let it get dirty enough to require extreme measures but some people only clean their gear like every 3 millenia and have to use a sledgehammer to remove the buildup.
 

Ramahs

Fucking Combustion (mostly) Since February 2017
Lol agreed but it depends on much people let it go. You and I wouldnt let it get dirty enough to require extreme measures but some people only clean their gear like every 3 millenia and have to use a sledgehammer to remove the buildup.

If you just use your vape till it doesn't work anymore because it is so utterly disgusting and clogged up, that's about as bad as driving your car around and neglecting to change the oil till the car doesn't run any more.

I don't use any vape for more than a few days without cleaning it.
 

LesPlenty

Well-Known Member
Company Rep
extra unnecessary work
It is the only way some of us have access to anything resembling concentrates.:haw:
One night of camping can sure net some reclaim if your gear is any good and you have fair crack at it, seems a waste just wiping it with a cotton bud and throwing it away.:tup:
Efit; I am talking about the stems/mouthpieces, I have not even swabbed the oven and it looks like new(I nearly always use the wpa)
 
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Vaporific

All who wander are not lost...
Thanks, everyone, for the o-ring/screen clean tips with liquids (ISO & dish soap of different types). It sounds like ISO is safe for short periods of time with this grade of silicone. I'll give it a try soon. Again, I accidentally removed a screen and thought it was clumsy to re-insert it and potentially stretch out the ring doing to - which is why these are cheap and replaceable however cleaning them saves a bit of money in replacement parts. I'll get a small covered jar or bottle and do a quick ISO soak as necessary. I do brush the screen and chamber regularly; I've never used ISO in the chamber and don't think it's necessary but the screen - and standard mouthpiece - should be regularly cleaned.

Happy weekend to all! :leaf::peace:
 
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shredder

Well-Known Member
I toss the screen (without the blue silicone ring) in ISO, let it soak, and clean it with an old toothbrush.
easy peasy.

I would like to know how to clean the two whitish silicone parts that are in the mouthpiece.

I just use iso on a q tip. I've never actually taken the mouthpiece apart, and so far I've haven't seen a need to.
 

OF

Well-Known Member
How do you clean the glass ,then ?
Same way at the same time.

Yeah, me too. I put the assembled MP (less the screen) 'big end up' in the same silverware tray and let the machine sort it out. Definitely no need to take the MP apart for cleaning IMO. Has anyone asked HR how to disassemble it for routine cleaning? i bet they're not keen on the ideas or they'd have made it easier to do and put it in the manual?

It's going to foul up again in the first couple hits, how important is the last little bit?

OF
 

Mr.Kite

Well-Known Member
Mine came apart while cleaning the assembled unit.
I was able to put it back together.
It still holds together but comes off pretty easy.

mmmh, bug or feature ?

anyways, I like my glass shining. So I clean it every time I charge the fury2
 

Ramahs

Fucking Combustion (mostly) Since February 2017
I toss the screen (without the blue silicone ring) in ISO, let it soak, and clean it with an old toothbrush.
easy peasy.

I would like to know how to clean the two whitish silicone parts that are in the mouthpiece.

I just pull them out and wipe them with iso as well. I place the glass tube into my reclaim jar full of everclear to clean it off into the everclear that I'm saving to reduce into a tincture later. All my glass parts with reclaim oil on them go into that jar for cleaning. I don't wash silicone parts off into my reclaim jar though.


It is the only way some of us have access to anything resembling concentrates.:haw:
One night of camping can sure net some reclaim if your gear is any good and you have fair crack at it, seems a waste just wiping it with a cotton bud and throwing it away.:tup:
Efit; I am talking about the stems/mouthpieces, I have not even swabbed the oven and it looks like new(I nearly always use the wpa)

I understand, but I've always found that the screen has too much garbage on it. I do save the reclaim from the glass tube in the stem, like I mentioned above.
 

Vaporific

All who wander are not lost...
I just use iso on a q tip. I've never actually taken the mouthpiece apart, and so far I've haven't seen a need to.
Ditto - iso & q-tips to clean the standard mouthpiece inside and out. I wouldn’t try to take it apart but it does seem like the white insert could come out. Putting the whole thing in the dishwasher is a great idea too.

I thought it was previously suggested the o-ring/screen could be put in the dishwasher so couldn’t the entire MP with screen go into the dishwasher silverware rack?
 

OF

Well-Known Member
I thought it was previously suggested the o-ring/screen could be put in the dishwasher so couldn’t the entire MP with screen go into the dishwasher silverware rack?

It didn't work as well for me without taking the screen off and big end up to capture as much hot wash water as possible. Easy enough to test if you've a mind to?

FWIW I clean small bubblers, stems and WPAs this way as well. I have a small plastic funnel to catch the wash and short piece of silicone tube to deliver it to the glass. Sometimes, like for straight stems, it can just go in that same silverware tray (sometimes I use an otherwise clean whisk as a prop next to it). Larger or more complex glass calls for hanging the funnel from the cage the upper arm runs in the a pair of small hooks I fashioned through punched holes and the glass 'hangs' on that via the tube. Since the water is captured higher up in the funnel, there's a solid flow in wash.

Not good for collecting reclaim, of course, but easy and effective.

Weekend regards to all.

OF

OF
 

Vaporific

All who wander are not lost...
It didn't work as well for me without taking the screen off and big end up to capture as much hot wash water as possible. Easy enough to test if you've a mind to?
Thanks! Now I have two new options for me to try: dishwasher separating the MP & screen with MP face down, and quick ISO soaks for the o-ring/screen assembly (so I needn’t remove the screen which I’m wary of doing to avoid stretching the silicone and affecting the seal).

Of course all this talk of cleaning the dang o-ring/screen has me now thinking: GLASS! Perhaps it’s time to invest in some - I have none. I feel onset VAS again :lol::peace:
 

OF

Well-Known Member
Thanks! Now I have two new options for me to try: dishwasher separating the MP & screen with MP face down, and quick ISO soaks for the o-ring/screen assembly (so I needn’t remove the screen which I’m wary of doing to avoid stretching the silicone and affecting the seal).

Great. Please let us know what you decide?

I wouldn't worry too much about "stretching the silicone", it's awfully tough when cured (which is why it's a seal....). Remember you get a spare seal and screen.

OF
 

Vaporific

All who wander are not lost...
Great. Please let us know what you decide?

I wouldn't worry too much about "stretching the silicone", it's awfully tough when cured (which is why it's a seal....). Remember you get a spare seal and screen.

OF
I bought a Fury clone (Snap) which came with two screens and I bought couple more from HR. The original one is caked up a bit, perhaps from the excitement and abuse of a new vape :lol:. That's the one that needs some TLC likely later today. I'll let you know. Gotta love this unit! :peace:
 

WoodVillain

Backwoods Rated
Help me out people...

I know.... or think? some batteries should only be charged when they die, not at halfway, and some should never be ran until fully dead....

So... which is this? Is it ok to charge between uses or should you wait until it's close to fully dead before charging?
 

OF

Well-Known Member
I bought a Fury clone (Snap) which came with two screens and I bought couple more from HR. The original one is caked up a bit, perhaps from the excitement and abuse of a new vape :lol:. That's the one that needs some TLC likely later today. I'll let you know. Gotta love this unit! :peace:
You're saying the metal screen itself is badly fouled? Not to worry, remove it from the gasket, hold it by the rim with tweezers or that roach clip you no longer need and torch it. Use a small 'torch type lighter' and nuke the sucker until it glows! Seriously, it's SS and can take the heat but the contamination can't. You're left with a soft coat of ash that brushes or even blows off.


So... which is this? Is it ok to charge between uses or should you wait until it's close to fully dead before charging?

Avoid full charges, and complete discharges. Even though 'protected' such events are very hard on this class. Excellent information here:
https://batteryuniversity.com/index.php/learn/article/how_to_prolong_lithium_based_batteries

Most important is to avoid full charges, especially when warm/hot. If you charge it fully 'by mistake' just immediately enjoy a session.......

OF
 

hinglemccringleberry

Well-Known Member
You're saying the metal screen itself is badly fouled? Not to worry, remove it from the gasket, hold it by the rim with tweezers or that roach clip you no longer need and torch it. Use a small 'torch type lighter' and nuke the sucker until it glows! Seriously, it's SS and can take the heat but the contamination can't. You're left with a soft coat of ash that brushes or even blows off.




Avoid full charges, and complete discharges. Even though 'protected' such events are very hard
OF
This is really difficult for me. I cant just sit there for an hour waiting for the unit to be at the perfect charge level before unplugging it. I either unplug it too soon when its barely at 4 bars, then I wait a bit longer and by the time i get back to it, its too late and its fully charged. And this happens at night when I cant vape because im going to bed. I also think its ridiculous that we even have to make sure it doesnt reach a full charge, its VERY annoying.
 
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