Discontinued Haze Dual V3
- Thread starter mrweed
- Start date
vapebuddy13
Your resident Super Hero
http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/trying-to-switch-to-vaping.18239/page-4#post-800946
^is (the more recent of many) a thread discussing switching totally over to Vaping, while you may(or may not) experience similar troubles, the change in the vape high experienced over the time of removing combustion is discussed a bit incase you are interested.
GL and keep us updated, b4 you know it the Haze will seem amazing
#Hazed went straight to 4, some sweet clouds and maybe 1 or 2 too many hits lol now watching a movie and hoping to knock right out
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SSVUN~YAH
You Must Unlearn, What You Have Learned...
vapebuddy13
Your resident Super Hero
wow that looks like that would knock me out real quick
Megavapatron
Well-Known Member
SSVUN~YAH where did u get that rig. Beautiful! !!!!! Bet it gets u nice and medicated
SSVUN~YAH
You Must Unlearn, What You Have Learned...
Thanks @Megavapatron That's the FC-711 from Stevenlmz79 off dhgate, came highly reccomended by a very high friend! 
vapebuddy13
Your resident Super Hero
might be something I look into when I get my GH... GH/Haze combo 
ean
Well-Known Member
please send me a vid of u ripping that beast lol.
trevorzamani
Well-Known Member
This looks SOOOO COOOL....
little maggie
Well-Known Member
I don't need another but Massdrop has a good price on the Haze.
Solomon
Talk to the Beard
Just got a wonderful reply from Haze about those lighter/softer cans.
Jordan from Haze says that their factory messed up and manufactured a bunch of "alloy" cans instead of the standard stainless steel cans, and that she would send me out some SS replacements. She also said that the SS cans have not changed and they are not switching to alloy cans.
So if you got some of those ally cans, it was a mistake, and Haze will replace them with SS cans.
If only all customer support interactions were this helpful and honest. KUDOS to Haze!
Jordan from Haze says that their factory messed up and manufactured a bunch of "alloy" cans instead of the standard stainless steel cans, and that she would send me out some SS replacements. She also said that the SS cans have not changed and they are not switching to alloy cans.
So if you got some of those ally cans, it was a mistake, and Haze will replace them with SS cans.
If only all customer support interactions were this helpful and honest. KUDOS to Haze!
ean
Well-Known Member
I use my haze charger for multiple different batteries. It probably is not the best idea, but i have had no issues thus far.
UnshavenFish
Well-Known Member
As @ean said it should work, as long as the GH batteries charge to 4.20v, if they charge higher than this it will still work but not give a full charge, but if they charge to under 4.20 they could go boom.
All I could find about the GH batteries (although I only had a quick search) are the size (they will fit in the haze charger) and that they are Li-ion, I would guess they are standard (4.20v) in regards to top end voltage but without that info I could not say 100% how safe it would be.
This is the charger GH suggested
http://www.all-battery.com/Tenergy_Li-ion18500_18650_14500_RCR123A_BatteryFastCharger-01270.aspx
Looks like the Haze but some one also thinks the voltage is 3.7 so Haze charger goes boom?
http://www.all-battery.com/Tenergy_Li-ion18500_18650_14500_RCR123A_BatteryFastCharger-01270.aspx
Looks like the Haze but some one also thinks the voltage is 3.7 so Haze charger goes boom?
UnshavenFish
Well-Known Member
Ok if this is what GH recommend you should be fine, 3.7v is the nominal (or average) charge (3.7v batteries charge to 4.20 like the haze batteries, just like old Ni-mh are 1.2v but charge to around 1.45)
This is what I could find on the GH recommended charger:
- Input Voltage: AC 100V - AC 240V (50Hz/60Hz) DC 12V - 24V 500mA
- Output voltage: 4.2V 500mA x 2
- Dimension: 134mm x 55mm x 30mm
- Charging direction: LED is red when charging, turn to green when full.
- For Li-ion 18500, 18650, 14500 Rechargeable Batteries
, although cuts out at 4.20v so should be safe 
IMO the haze charger is better quality, and there are other chargers that are fast but couldn't recommend a safe higher charge rate without more battery info.
The normal for Li-ions is labeled 3.7v charges to 4.20 (charging to 4.25 and over are when things will go bad) then you have older style that are labeled 3.6v but charge to 4.10, and newer ones that are 4.35v, charging a lower rated battery in a higher rated charger should be avoided but a higher rated battery will be ok in a lower rated charger but not give a full charge, if that makes sense.
Thank you so much good sir!Ok if this is what GH recommend you should be fine, 3.7v is the nominal (or average) charge (3.7v batteries charge to 4.20 like the haze batteries, just like old Ni-mh are 1.2v but charge to around 1.45)
This is what I could find on the GH recommended charger:
Claims to be a fast charger but not IMO at 500mA
- Input Voltage: AC 100V - AC 240V (50Hz/60Hz) DC 12V - 24V 500mA
- Output voltage: 4.2V 500mA x 2
- Dimension: 134mm x 55mm x 30mm
- Charging direction: LED is red when charging, turn to green when full.
- For Li-ion 18500, 18650, 14500 Rechargeable Batteries
IMO the haze charger is better quality, and there are other chargers that are fast but couldn't recommend a safe higher charge rate without more battery info.
The normal for Li-ions is labeled 3.7v charges to 4.20 (charging to 4.25 and over are when things will go bad) then you have older style that are labeled 3.6v but charge to 4.10, and newer ones that are 4.35v, charging a lower rated battery in a higher rated charger should be avoided but a higher rated battery will be ok in a lower rated charger but not give a full charge, if that makes sense.
virtualpurple
Well-Known Member
Sitting back with my Haze hooked up to the FC-UFO bubbler and through a whip up to a drip tip. Huge clouds on setting 4. Life is tasty.
Micke
Well-Known Member
Cheapo Fleabay ?watertight? battery case:
Some pretty important stuff happening in the thread right now so this is pretty weak by comparison. Still, in case it's of any use to anyone, a few pics.
Watertight?:
Long side latches work fairly well; end latches kinda' soft on latching and too stiff so I figured: "Watertight? Yeah, right." Threw it in a bucket of water with a weight on it for a half hour. Imagine my surprise when it didn't leak a drop. The design is such that I figure mass production probably makes quite a few leakers - if not immediately, then soon after? I could be wrong; after all, I was sure it would leak right away and it didn't do that.
Here's what it looks like in my large Ryot Packrat case with the array of supporting equipment:
Below is with the battery case open and 2 batteries in it:
Below is with only 1 battery in the case and 2 Haze cans in the other side. With the battery out, the support bars or cradles separate the side into 4 slots. 2 cans fits a bit too tightly in one slot. So I think without forcing things, I can store 2 cans in 2 slots, 1 can in the remaining 2. That is, I think 6 will fit easily. 8 may be a force fit. I can't confirm since I currently only have 6 cans on hand and some of those are soaking in EC190.
The latches are stiff enough, I think some will break off in time. While I'm not thrilled about that, at this pretty cheap price point, I'm ok with it. Come to think of it, this may be minimized by not bending the latches far out when unsnapping the lid.
Regarding Haze cans:
I'm very glad that the origin of the aluminum cans has been tracked down and is no doubt being corrected.
Alloy - definition often misused:
This isn't meant to hate anyone; it's come up several times in this thread and thousands of times in any auto forum.
The words alloy and aluminum have become essentially interchangeable on the web. THIS IS A MISNOMER.
We could accept the misuse of the word as a popular colloquialism - after all, it kind of looks like an abbreviated form of the word aluminum, doesn't it? But then, what do we call all other metal mixes? After all, almost all metals listed on the Periodic Table are alloyed when used in production.
For clarity, almost every metal used in modern manufacturing is an alloy. That is to say, alloy does not mean aluminum - although like most mfg metals, almost all aluminum used in production IS an alloy of one variety or another.
In manufacturing, all stainless steel, titanium, and even some types of iron are in actual fact alloys. Steel itself is an alloy; it is iron alloyed with other metals, etc.
Below is one publisher's definition of alloy. Please note that alloy is not defined as aluminum.
In fact, the usage of the word alloy predates the times when bauxite ore could feasibly be refined into aluminum. That is: Alloyed metal used in manufacturing long predates when the first aluminum came to be. I believe the first alloys may predate the Bronze Age. Bronze itself being an alloy, obviously.
Iron (and steel) is/are often alloyed with other metals such as manganese, chromium, nickel, carbon, cobalt, etc. In fact, aluminum can be added to steel typically making so-called "aluminum killed steel". This alloy is useful where severe bending in production is necessary such as with exhaust pipe, etc. Anyway, back to the definition; please note that aluminum isn't required in the definition of the word alloy.
This definition is a bit heavy on reduction of value. That aspect is commonly present in coins - such as adding a small amount of copper for gold bullion coins, etc. Whereas, in manufacturing, an alloy often adds value through performance attributes. Anyway, below is fwiw:
alloy
Pronunciation: (
—n.al'oi, u-loi';
—v.u-loi'), [key]
—n.
1. a substance composed of two or more metals, or of a metal or metals with a nonmetal, intimately mixed, as by fusion or electrodeposition.
2. a less costly metal mixed with a more valuable one.
3. standard; quality; fineness.
4. admixture, as of good with evil.
5. anything added that serves to reduce quality or purity.
—v.t.
1. to mix (metals or metal with nonmetal) so as to form an alloy.
2. to reduce in value by an admixture of a less costly metal.
3. to debase, impair, or reduce by admixture; adulterate.Random House Unabridged Dictionary, Copyright © 1997, by Random House, Inc.
Some time ago in this thread, there were reports that Haze was considering switching from their first stainless steel ALLOY to a different alloy of stainless. It appears that hasn't happened yet and may not happen which is fine with me.
From recent info posted, it appears that somehow whomever was doing the stamping substituted an aluminum alloy without Haze's consent. Because of Haze's stellar support and responsiveness, I believe this will be fixed and quickly.
For anyone who believes I may have focused above on unimportant minutia, I apologize in advance. Maybe just mark it down as a pet peeve. Did some industry tech teaching long ago and it rears its ugly head
sometimes.
Some pretty important stuff happening in the thread right now so this is pretty weak by comparison. Still, in case it's of any use to anyone, a few pics.
Watertight?:
Long side latches work fairly well; end latches kinda' soft on latching and too stiff so I figured: "Watertight? Yeah, right." Threw it in a bucket of water with a weight on it for a half hour. Imagine my surprise when it didn't leak a drop. The design is such that I figure mass production probably makes quite a few leakers - if not immediately, then soon after? I could be wrong; after all, I was sure it would leak right away and it didn't do that.
Here's what it looks like in my large Ryot Packrat case with the array of supporting equipment:
Below is with the battery case open and 2 batteries in it:
Below is with only 1 battery in the case and 2 Haze cans in the other side. With the battery out, the support bars or cradles separate the side into 4 slots. 2 cans fits a bit too tightly in one slot. So I think without forcing things, I can store 2 cans in 2 slots, 1 can in the remaining 2. That is, I think 6 will fit easily. 8 may be a force fit. I can't confirm since I currently only have 6 cans on hand and some of those are soaking in EC190.
The latches are stiff enough, I think some will break off in time. While I'm not thrilled about that, at this pretty cheap price point, I'm ok with it. Come to think of it, this may be minimized by not bending the latches far out when unsnapping the lid.
Regarding Haze cans:
I'm very glad that the origin of the aluminum cans has been tracked down and is no doubt being corrected.
Alloy - definition often misused:
This isn't meant to hate anyone; it's come up several times in this thread and thousands of times in any auto forum.
The words alloy and aluminum have become essentially interchangeable on the web. THIS IS A MISNOMER.
We could accept the misuse of the word as a popular colloquialism - after all, it kind of looks like an abbreviated form of the word aluminum, doesn't it? But then, what do we call all other metal mixes? After all, almost all metals listed on the Periodic Table are alloyed when used in production.
For clarity, almost every metal used in modern manufacturing is an alloy. That is to say, alloy does not mean aluminum - although like most mfg metals, almost all aluminum used in production IS an alloy of one variety or another.
In manufacturing, all stainless steel, titanium, and even some types of iron are in actual fact alloys. Steel itself is an alloy; it is iron alloyed with other metals, etc.
Below is one publisher's definition of alloy. Please note that alloy is not defined as aluminum.
In fact, the usage of the word alloy predates the times when bauxite ore could feasibly be refined into aluminum. That is: Alloyed metal used in manufacturing long predates when the first aluminum came to be. I believe the first alloys may predate the Bronze Age. Bronze itself being an alloy, obviously.
Iron (and steel) is/are often alloyed with other metals such as manganese, chromium, nickel, carbon, cobalt, etc. In fact, aluminum can be added to steel typically making so-called "aluminum killed steel". This alloy is useful where severe bending in production is necessary such as with exhaust pipe, etc. Anyway, back to the definition; please note that aluminum isn't required in the definition of the word alloy.
This definition is a bit heavy on reduction of value. That aspect is commonly present in coins - such as adding a small amount of copper for gold bullion coins, etc. Whereas, in manufacturing, an alloy often adds value through performance attributes. Anyway, below is fwiw:
alloy
Pronunciation: (
—n.al'oi, u-loi';
—v.u-loi'), [key]
—n.
1. a substance composed of two or more metals, or of a metal or metals with a nonmetal, intimately mixed, as by fusion or electrodeposition.
2. a less costly metal mixed with a more valuable one.
3. standard; quality; fineness.
4. admixture, as of good with evil.
5. anything added that serves to reduce quality or purity.
—v.t.
1. to mix (metals or metal with nonmetal) so as to form an alloy.
2. to reduce in value by an admixture of a less costly metal.
3. to debase, impair, or reduce by admixture; adulterate.Random House Unabridged Dictionary, Copyright © 1997, by Random House, Inc.
Some time ago in this thread, there were reports that Haze was considering switching from their first stainless steel ALLOY to a different alloy of stainless. It appears that hasn't happened yet and may not happen which is fine with me.
From recent info posted, it appears that somehow whomever was doing the stamping substituted an aluminum alloy without Haze's consent. Because of Haze's stellar support and responsiveness, I believe this will be fixed and quickly.
For anyone who believes I may have focused above on unimportant minutia, I apologize in advance. Maybe just mark it down as a pet peeve. Did some industry tech teaching long ago and it rears its ugly head
sometimes.
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CG420
Over the horizon u can see the edges of the Earth
I'm not sure why but I may have very well been given the alloy cans instead on my MD package. The tabs are flimsy like and will bend with the use of the tweezer tool included. I wonder if Haze would exchange mines for some real stainless steel cans. I imagine that is why my vapors aren't producing.
Should I message @Haze Vaporizers about it?
Should I message @Haze Vaporizers about it?
@Haze Vaporizers might need to address the "new cans" design - now I believe it's not a "counterfeit" issue, but a re-design issue. Right after I purchased my Haze 2.5, I ordered an extra 2-can/cover pack direct from Haze, and the cans matched the originals, but a couple of weeks ago I ordered another 2-can/cover pack from Haze and immediately noticed the new cans were lighter in color (they look like bright aluminum to me), and they weight around .37g vs .66g. Didn't really care one way or another - they seem to work the same way.
But the problem is that they are MUCH softer than the original SS cans. Those little handles are so soft and flexible that one of them broke off this morning just while filling. They are soft like paper tabs now - even the slightest touch and they bend - just refilling them causes enough bending for them to break off. My other "new" can is doing the same thing and I don't expect the little tab-handle to last another fill.
Original cans on left, new cans on right:
I should note that the original 2 cans and the first extra 2 cans I bought are just fine and have been used for weeks longer than the new ones which are breaking after just a few uses.
I guess I need to contact Haze about getting some replacements, but I suspect that this is the "new" can design.
Micke
Well-Known Member
If they are aluminum alloy and not stainless steel alloy, I'll bet they'll gladly swap them out.
If there is any doubt, weight without lid will immediately answer the question. .65g +/- currently means stainless steel alloy - the original oem stainless steel alloy cans. If .37g +/-, then that currently means aluminum alloy from the oops batch.
There is also the difference in color between the aluminum alloy and the stainless steel alloy. The aluminum alloy is obviously bright silver whereas the stainless steel alloy is a muted color with a slight gold color tint to the mainly silver color.
If any doubt, though, I'd say weight immediately gives away which metallic alloy they are.
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CG420
Over the horizon u can see the edges of the Earth
There is no doubt I have alloy cans since they are super light and stainless steel would weigh a lot heavier. It is lighter than anything stainless I have ever touched so it sure does seem to be aluminum. Haven't used the Haze since the first time trying it out after I received it a few weeks back. They are bright silver but thin all around. Also, I can taste this nastiness in the vapor. Not sure if the aluminum would be the reason. I do not like the cans I received from MD drop. I'll see if I can get some help from Haze through email.
Micke
Well-Known Member
Suggest you contact Haze. My belief is that they'll swap out aluminum cans. I continue to be pleasantly astonished reading accounts of Haze's excellent customer support.
@Haze Vaporizers - I expect you plan to publish something about this in the thread... just tagged this for you for your consideration. TIA! (Not tryin' to step on anyone's toes. If the excellent folks at Haze would rather make the below distinctions and have me take this down, please say so while edit is still available and I'll gladly oblige.)
@CG420 - You might want to say "aluminum" when contacting Haze instead of "alloy" since "alloy" does not mean aluminum (please see 2nd half of post 2444). The original cans many of us know and trust and want are "stainless steel alloy". Stainless steel is always an alloy; usually an alloy of iron, carbon, nickel, chromium, sometimes cobalt and other things.
MM's how to distinguish stainless steel alloy VS aluminum alloy cans:
In order to save you shipping expense 2 ways on cans that may be SS and just fine - -
If you or someone you know has a small electronic scale, it's as easy as .65g vs .37g without lids. .37 is aluminum alloy; .65 is the desired stainless steel alloy.
Bright silver in coloration is aluminum; any gold-ish tinge on the base silver-ish color is SS. This pic illustrates direct comparison. Stainless steel alloy cans are on left; aluminum alloy cans are on right. Note that the stainless steel alloy has a much sharper bend on the tabs. The below are UNUSED cans that are new and cleaned by me just one time in iso.
FWIW, both types of cans FEEL light. Not sure I could personally feel the difference of 1/3 gram except maybe/possibly in direct comparison. However, the aluminum cans WEIGH much lighter. Also, there is one report that the tabs will break off the aluminum cans in only 1 or 2 gentle uses.
Will try to remember for future q's
:#aluminumcans
edit: Was just cleaning my trainwreck of a house. Found 2 more two packs of Haze cans - both packages never opened. Straight out of the package and without direct comparison with aluminum, I'd have sworn both pairs were aluminum because all were so bright silver before first wash. However, they were not aluminum. All 4 weigh in as stainless steel.
Appearances can be deceiving. To save your time and Haze's: I definitely recommend weighing cans before attempting swap. fwiw
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I've never played poker with a poker chip set like that! Lol
All packed up for the poker game, tonight!