I can't vet this as I'm not well read on batteries, but from some quick Googling, it appears a fully charged 18650 battery might be in the range of 4.1 to 4.2 volts and discharged might be somewhere near 3.7 but probably not below 3.6. However, it appears there are some variables depending upon what mah the battery is, the charge rate, the discharge rate and the battery temp. And probably some other variables I'm unaware of.
I tried dry herb in the can with the lid. There was no vapor, but the taste was there. The ABV was brown. Does anyone have the same experience?
NickDlow,
The tabs on the cans: They need to be facing OUT away from the oven cover (door) hinge, right?
Some say to wait 15 to 20 seconds after the lights indicate full temp for concentrates - is that necessary or desirable for herb?
I use .5A rate if I have time. That should, in theory give you the most cycles from your battery
UnshavenFish, dude, but I liked your post. But that's not enough. Gotta say: Excellent detailed info! Much appreciated!
I'd wondered about some of that but was kinda' afraid to ask. You no doubt know how it is in forums and all.
I believe you can get a small but usually sufficient digital volt meter from your local Harbor Freight for less than 5 bucks.
it's not a bad idea to make sure that none of the shrink wrap inadvertently covers the + or minus contacts. That's the center connector or contact of either end of the battery. It is unlikely this is the problem since even a tiny speck of plastic on either end would create an "open" condition.
Love the "Hazing"!
Wow, I didn't realize that vaping could be such a learning experience. Do I need to check the voltage on the batteries? My Haze feels warm after I turn it on. I just don't get vapor. But I get taste and effects. I'll try some of the suggestions from the members who have posted about the cans. Thank you.
As for charge rate as already mentioned it is a trade off between charge speed and battery life (although IME not a huge amount will be gained or lost) slower is better due to less heat (batteries don't like heat) and a less aggressive chemical reaction internally, the haze batteries should handle (within there tolerance) a 2A charge just fine maybe even higher (I have other batteries I have used over 4A on) but I don't know the c rating of the haze batteries, if they are 2c rated this would mean the XL 3200mAh could handle 6A but it's safer to assume they are 1c and probably best to keep 2A as an upper limit.
it's a 3400mAh battery
I don't know the c rating of the Haze XL but it's a 3400mAh battery. It's hard to tell which battery it has hidden under the Haze wrapper. I know that charging my Fenix ARB-L2S 3400mAh batteries at 1A gets them warm to the touch. They don't get warm at all when charged at .5A. I know heat is a killer of 18650 batteries, that's why I stick with the .5A charge. Might as well be gentle if I have the time.
I have read about not running lithium batteries till empty because a full charge from empty is also harder on them. Also about pulling they out before the top off stage of charging. All of these practices should give an 18650 the longest life, even if only by a small fraction. I try not to drain them to empty but I do let the charger top them up. Better to have a fully charged battery.
My XL's were ordered through the Haze website and they have a sticker reading 3200mAH 3.7V.Yeah supposed to be, that's the ones I ordered, but mine have a little sticker on that says 3200
I haven't got round to testing them fully yet (it's on a long long list of things to do) I usually discharge to 2.7v for testing (keeping this voltage makes it easier for me to compare 'A' battery against 'B') so not sure if the 'custom' battery PCB would cause issues here, I would probably have to order new ones anyways to test as my used ones could be unfair to the results, and I always feel bad raping a battery, I mean forcefully removing it's clothes to do unspeakable things to it just feels wrong interesting but wrong.
Maybe there has been a change of battery used by haze at somepoint could be that 3200 is the true rating (reason it's on a sticker not the actual wrap) over claiming is not uncommon with batteries, I don't see haze as a company that would do this knowingly, maybe after testing they found this to be the real mAh, could just be a simple misprint.
Everything you mention about being kind/respectful to these batteries is 100% spot on , I give the same advice to others (even if I don't always follow it myself ) for the simple reason that we are talking about something that has the potential to go wrong in the ways it can, if we were talking about shaking a fizzy drinks bottle I would advise "shake people go nuts!"
For me I'm nice to some of my batteries (following the same steps you mention) and others I'm not so kind to, things like my crafty (fixed battery, well not meant to be user changeable) I'm nice, if I can swap it out easy like the haze I don't worry too much as IMO I can then see it as a wear and tear item a bit easier.
A quick note to others:
I realise I have talked about using a higher A while charging and being within "tolerance" and need to point out that it is just that "within tolerance" and also not something people should just take my word for without doing their own checks/research, for the haze IMHO the kindest/safest option would be use the OEM charger or to stick to 1A and under (even if it can/could go higher) charging a battery at over its rated A can cause serious damage/injury and most cases of things going wrong (not with haze but in general) are while charging not while in use.
Happy and safe vaping to all
Yeah supposed to be, that's the ones I ordered, but mine have a little sticker on that says 3200
My XL's were ordered through the Haze website and they have a sticker reading 3200mAH 3.7V.
Would protecting the cells with the chip at the end lower the mAH?That's very interesting about the XL having a 3200mAh sticker. Someone somewhere must have made a mistake. Haze Tech website has them listed as 3400mAh. I know 200mAh isn't a whole lot but I would expect to receive what was described. Maybe that's why they aren't as expensive as most protected 3400mAh batteries. I'm suspecting that it's a Panasonic cell under that Haze wrapper.
UnshavenFish, I know what you mean about doing the unspeakable to the batteries. I have a pair of DEworld 18650 batteries that I got with a charger for $2.50. The store was closing so it was marked down 90%. I have thought about disrobing the batteries and removing the protection circuit. Then I can find out what secret lay beneath that DE wrapper. They are only 2000mAh and a bit on the long side. They fit into my flashlights but won't fit into my Haze.
Would protecting the cells with the chip at the end lower the mAH?
I do not use that standard Haze batteries any more. XL ones are great. They last at least 4-5 more shorter sessions for me. I got them on a deal as well so I am happy. I just had 4 bowls with dry/shatter combo. Makes me appreciate my life and what I have.Could be a 3400 battery but the PCB makes only 3200 usable due to what it's set to cut out at, hard to say without knowing all the battery and PCB specs, or further tests, I keep looking at my XL's , little voice in my head saying "it's just a sticker not even a full shrink wrap it has an edge just pull it off" if it was the standard batteries and not the XL's I would have pulled them apart already, but I like my XL's
maybe one day when I've vaped a little too much I will get it over with and see what lies beneath, will depend how much it plays on my brain.
Would protecting the cells with the chip at the end lower the mAH?
Ok I'm weak and maybe a little , I can't take it any more I need to know what's under that wrapper, it's just sat there laughing at me because it has a secret
Will update with the goods
Ok for anyone interested....it's a Panasonic NCR18650BE so it is 3200mAh
Guess I now have a new battery for my Kato (performance will drop off way before it gets to 2.5v) or if I remove the button top something for my Innokin VTR, either way my head can now rest.
Not to off-track things from this intense battery discussion...but....
I got to try out my new Haze with some shatter yesterday and everyone was quite impressed! Just a few tiny shards between four of us - very tasty and cool - and it worked flawlessly!
I've only done concentrates a few times, but now that I see the Haze handles it so well , I am going to get some shatter of my very own. Super pleased.
I'm still loving having my pre-filled cans for herb (I now have 6 cans....its like some strange obsession...heh).
Now just rewrap it and it'll be as good as new.
I'm way past that I have extra wrap but would need new wire (only stuff I have is too thin/narrow, and don't want to chance shorting out the case) to put the PCB back together, plus I don't think my iron would be any good without causing damage to the PCB and battery, safest option is to keep it for one of my mods, I've not lost a battery just found a different use for it
I had hoped it was a strange unknown battery so I could go all mad scientist on it, but no need now
On the plus side it is a quality battery and put together well
Although I'm now starting to wonder what the standard batteries are maybe a little mystery in my life could be good, might wait till I get some replacements.
Yes, safe is good. Don't need a charred UnshavenFish.
I already knew you had gone to far. I'm glad Haze went with a good quality cell rather than some strange unknown cell. Does it say made in Japan? I have seen some Panasonic cells with "Made in China" on their label. They are always a lot cheaper, I wonder why.
Yes, leave a little mystery in your life. Don't go cracking all the secrets of the universe, just yet.