Discontinued Glass Symphony XLR

[juxt]

I still haven't setup a pic account anywhere, but I did want to update that after using the 3 small glass screens it's definitely not as good as a single larger flat glass screen. I had a perfectly clean amber dropdown and now it's got chunks

Still love the glass symphony, no question, and the funnel bowl with double screens its tops .

 

[Dubmonkey]

I am on the hunt for a ash catcher. I am in love with the glass mesh bowl but the bits floating in my roor makes me .

Went to LHS and grab a boto syndicate(I think it is) 18f to 18m reclaim catcher (I think that’s what it is). Looks like a glass chamber with glass pipe in the center. So things get caught in the glass chamber area such as fine grind and ABV bits. Noticed that by adding this piece I get more clouds than without it. I get less flavor (number of draws where flavor can be tasted) compared to the glass mesh bowl with no screens or anything. Without any screens and depending on the material I can get 3-4 full flavor draws.

With that boro syndicate thing i got today. I tried dropping some ros in the chamber, placed the funnelbowl on the boro syn chamber and Convection dabs. @jojo monkey maybe a bowl with the glass chamber built into it so the GS heater can be closer to the product.

Also told a friend about the GS and you might be reaching out to you @jojo monkey via email.

 

[juxt]

I am on the hunt for a ash catcher.

Might I suggest the non diffusing ash catcher from TAG? Some folks don't seem to like therm and say they're only buying Chinese etc. I don't mean to offend those folks but TAG has been good to me as a customer. Others might recommend oregon glass blower as a real deal alternative...

 

[CaptVapor]

I've really been enjoying the glass mesh bowl. It restricts the airflow noticeably in a good way - it really milks my FC-UFO fast! It feels like you are wasting less of your inhale and the ratio between air and vapor skews much more towards vapor (when compared to the stadium and funnel bowls).

I should clarify: when using stadium and funnel bowls on a moderate heat setting (I'm currently at 798 on the Auber, about 787 actual temp) vapor production starts light and then ramps up, the GMB seems to just milk up the glass immediately. AVB is perfectly roasted.

This makes the GMB much better for microdosing. There were times when I filled up the funnel and stadium bowls with wayyyyyy too much material just to see what would happen, in those scenarios you end up with giant clouds but it's so much herb that you go from 0 - 11 immediately. The GMB has the same cloud production but the effect is more manageable

Sure, you end up with some material in your glass, but I rinse it out once a day and it hasn't been an issue. I've kept the bowl clean by simply brushing it out between hits and blowing through it, I'll also sometimes stick a skewer through the holes to keep them clean. Glass basically looks like the day I got it.

 

[StormyPinkness]

I can't recommend spoiling yourself and getting an ultrasonic cleaner enough. Just cleans so unbelievably fast and thoroughly. I fill it with water and put the glass in ziploc bags with iso, although @jojo monkey has me wanting to try distilled water or liquinox.

Water rinse, 2 minutes in the dirty/washing bag, water rinse, 2 minutes in the clean/rinse bag, done (I do one last rinse in water). Could probably cut the time in half and just do 1 minute each. It makes it so easy to keep them constantly clean.

It even works with my D020-D with it sticking halfway out. I fill it with iso, plug the holes, after 1 minutes it's clean. I do 2 minutes just for the hell of it. The vibrations go into the liquid in the glass and end up cleaning the parts outside the cleaner too. Just love this thing.

 

[juxt]

I just ordered one of these, and a 1.5 gallon vacuum gas extraction chamber...should be here Tuesday. I love clean glass for sure.

 

[juxt]

Sorry for the double post, but I found the link to the glass screens I was talking about before online:
https://www.rollingpaperdepot.com/Large-Glass-Daisy-Pipe-Screens

that one is out of stock but I ordered two of the smaller ones to see if any you know anomaly ones fit like the other one did.

 

[CaptVapor]

I can't recommend spoiling yourself and getting an ultrasonic cleaner enough.

Do you drop the entire bowl in there, screens and all?? That would really seal the deal for me.

 

[StormyPinkness]

Do you drop the entire bowl in there, screens and all?? That would really seal the deal for me.

I don't remove the screens, I just drop it in a bag and pour iso in. I do a dirty bag and a clean rinse bag if I'm doing a bunch or just dump and replace the iso in the same bag if I'm doing 1 bowl.

I had a smaller one for jewelry that cost around $20 that did a great job, I only upgraded to this $90 one to fit my D020-D bubbler in there. It actually doesn't fit all the way, but I fill it with iso and the vibrations travel up the iso in the glass and clean the whole thing anyways, it's amazing.

Edit: Actually I do remove the fine mesh screens sometimes, if I did a bad job shaping them and they're loose already I'll pop it out.

 

[Alexis]

Do you drop the entire bowl in there, screens and all?? That would really seal the deal for me.

Well it would be similar to regular ISO soaking where many people do soak screens in bowls. My feeling has always been that I would get a more thorough clean in all the edges and crannies, by removing screens.
But Im sure you will get excellent results either way.

 

[juxt]

I'm thinking of trying that 'CleanClearGlass' stuff ... I think that's it but I'm forgetful. My cleaner did come in the mail yesterday, I haven't used it yet, working overtime this week

 

[jojo monkey]

funnel bowl with double screens its tops

Thanks for the review.

I've really been enjoying the glass mesh bowl. It restricts the airflow noticeably in a good way - it really milks my FC-UFO fast! It feels like you are wasting less of your inhale and the ratio between air and vapor skews much more towards vapor (when compared to the stadium and funnel bowls).

Sounds like you found a nice grind and dose size for the bowl.

I really tried to mimic the pack of an eq basket or a log vape to get that density to the hit. I find that I keep going back to the bowl for the flavor.


...

It is so sweet to have 2 people on the same page of this thread give a +1 for a different bowl.

maybe a bowl with the glass chamber built into it so the GS heater can be closer to the product.

The first glass vape I made had the heater right on top of the herb. I moved the heater away to keep the bowls touchable. I also think it is beneficial to not pre-heat the herb at all.

If you change out the GS 3way adapter for an off the shelf 24/40 105 degree 3way adapter the heater will be in the bowl. You get a super fast conduction + convection hit but will need an oven mitt to vape.

I fill it with water and put the glass in ziploc bags with iso, although @jojo monkey has me wanting to try distilled water or liquinox.

The ziplock + ultrasonic cleaner work great. This is such a great tip. I've been doing it since you told me about it.

ISO can be dirty and leave a residue. I like a nice double rinse with water like you. The cleaner the water the better. Distilled is easy to get.
Liquinox can be found on amazon (if you have prime it is $23 a qt). I love the stuff. It is meant for soaking or to be used in an ultrasonic cleaner. It is biodegradable. It works with hard or soft water. It is phosphate free. FDA approved. More here: https://alconox.com/liquinox/ The downside is that it is strong stuff and you should wear hand and eye protection.

Many lab/university cleaning proceedures call for alconox which is a sister product to liquinox that can't go down a drain (it uses phosphates). Both are made by the same company to have similar results.

For a really baked on resin I found simple green to beat liquinox in a bag in an ultrasonic cleaner. Not by much though. I can't put simple green down a drain so -1 for it. Liquinox does not have a funky smell like simple so there is that too.

Water rinse, 2 minutes in the dirty/washing bag, water rinse, 2 minutes in the clean/rinse bag, done (I do one last rinse in water). Could probably cut the time in half and just do 1 minute each. It makes it so easy to keep them constantly clean.

I am with you on rinsing as aggressively as you clean. I too use my ultrasonic cleaner for a rinse step.

 

[Oogendoogan]

Ok so I love myGS. But I have the stadium and funnel bowls with old and messed up screens

Can anyone tell me how to use an EQ basket in the funnel bowl? Do you guys just take the normal screen out and drop the basket in? And what size screens does the funnel bowl use? I need some new ones.

 

[Dubmonkey]

On the funnel bowls just pop the screen out and the baskets will drop right in. @lazylathe introduced this concept with baskets he may have additional,insights. As for the screen size not sure someone else could better answer that.

 

[Oogendoogan]

On the funnel bowls just pop the screen out and the baskets will drop right in. @lazylathe introduced this concept with baskets he may have additional,insights. As for the screen size not sure someone else could better answer that.

Ok cool. Gonna try that soon. Gotta run some errands and all I have left flower wise right now is Elmer’s glue not the best to vape out of the GS and run errands lol so I’m doing a vapcap bowl or two, running errands and coming back to Elmer’s glue in the GS any advice from @lazylathe would be appreciated. Your videos got me interested in the GS in the first place. I know you use the EQ baskets pretty exclusively. Any advice on how to get the densest clouds would be appreciated. And as far as the standard screen size I think it’s probanly a standard 1 inch screen. Maybe some one knows forsure.. but that seems right.

 

[lazylathe]

Ok cool. Gonna try that soon. Gotta run some errands and all I have left flower wise right now is Elmer’s glue not the best to vape out of the GS and run errands lol so I’m doing a vapcap bowl or two, running errands and coming back to Elmer’s glue in the GS any advice from @lazylathe would be appreciated. Your videos got me interested in the GS in the first place. I know you use the EQ baskets pretty exclusively. Any advice on how to get the densest clouds would be appreciated. And as far as the standard screen size I think it’s probanly a standard 1 inch screen. Maybe some one knows forsure.. but that seems right.

I use the funnel bowl and an EQ basket screen exclusively with my GS!
Major micro doser and perfect for my needs!
I also have the 1st GS heater version, apparently runs hotter but some guys run even hotter than I do.
This is what works for me and I have not changed temps for a awhile.

I run my GS at 812F PID setting but +- 800/803F actual heater temp.
Grab an EQ basket and a sharpie ended style tool, I use my S&B wooden brush handle.
Press it around the inside of the basket to slightly push the mesh outwards.
Drop it into your funnel bowl and check the fit, mine is usually loose for the first few bowls but then gets glued in place with resin.

Drop a pinch of fine ground herb into the bowl and place the GS on top.
I am using my WT's dry these days for more flavor and effect.
Inhale at any speed you want, fast for a one hitter or slow for a few sips.
It really does not matter how you inhale, the ABV will always be the same color! Even if you do the slowest inhale it does not darken, very stable temps.

I have become lazy...LOL... and have not been removing the GS after the hit to clear the WT.
This is now causing an oil build up on the inside of the joint, which means a total ISO clean...
I will always be removing it before clearing now!

Hope this helps!

 

[Oogendoogan]

I use the funnel bowl and an EQ basket screen exclusively with my GS!
Major micro doser and perfect for my needs!
I also have the 1st GS heater version, apparently runs hotter but some guys run even hotter than I do.
This is what works for me and I have not changed temps for a awhile.

I run my GS at 812F PID setting but +- 800/803F actual heater temp.
Grab an EQ basket and a sharpie ended style tool, I use my S&B wooden brush handle.
Press it around the inside of the basket to slightly push the mesh outwards.
Drop it into your funnel bowl and check the fit, mine is usually loose for the first few bowls but then gets glued in place with resin.

Drop a pinch of fine ground herb into the bowl and place the GS on top.
I am using my WT's dry these days for more flavor and effect.
Inhale at any speed you want, fast for a one hitter or slow for a few sips.
It really does not matter how you inhale, the ABV will always be the same color! Even if you do the slowest inhale it does not darken, very stable temps.

I have become lazy...LOL... and have not been removing the GS after the hit to clear the WT.
This is now causing an oil build up on the inside of the joint, which means a total ISO clean...
I will always be removing it before clearing now!

Hope this helps!

Thank you lazy! Super helpful as always. I love the GS. My FPSH is my DD but the GS comes out on the weekends and for testing new buds. Really is the strongest vape I own. Rivals the sublimator in strength and the vapor is delicious. I have the first gen heater as well and have been running much higher like around 950. Maybe our PID settings are different? I have an auber and was told to put my 166 setting at 18,0,0 and my 155 at 1.03. Are those the settings I should be using? Thanks for the advice I’m gonna fire up the GS soon

 

[lazylathe]

Thank you lazy! Super helpful as always. I love the GS. My FPSH is my DD but the GS comes out on the weekends and for testing new buds. Really is the strongest vape I own. Rivals the sublimator in strength and the vapor is delicious. I have the first gen heater as well and have been running much higher like around 950. Maybe our PID settings are different? I have an auber and was told to put my 166 setting at 18,0,0 and my 155 at 1.03. Are those the settings I should be using? Thanks for the advice I’m gonna fire up the GS soon

Let me check my settings and get back to you!
I have the RDK-200.

EDIT:
My settings are
P 20
I 0
D 0
PSL 1.03
OTH 100

I usually have about a 10F degree difference between the set and actual temp.
It also took quite a while for my temps to be stable using only the GS with the RDK-200.
It is rock solid now!

 

[jojo monkey]

I have the RDK-200.

EDIT:
My settings are
P 20
I 0
D 0
PSL 1.03
OTH 100

Thank you lazy! Super helpful as always. I love the GS. My FPSH is my DD but the GS comes out on the weekends and for testing new buds. Really is the strongest vape I own. Rivals the sublimator in strength and the vapor is delicious. I have the first gen heater as well and have been running much higher like around 950. Maybe our PID settings are different? I have an auber and was told to put my 166 setting at 18,0,0 and my 155 at 1.03. Are those the settings I should be using? Thanks for the advice I’m gonna fire up the GS soon

I'd change it a little bit. "D" = 3 will make it warm up a bit more gently. The "P" can be 15-25. The temp should hold steady and not wobble. Also, like lazylathe said, the actual temp can be -10 below the set temp if you adjust "P".

"PSL" can be 1.0 too. That setting can skew things. Having it 1.0 will have it so you are looking at the real temp. Nobody is going over 1000F so there is no need for 999F * 1.03 = 1028F max temp. The point of the 1.03 was to give auber users a way of going over 999F in a safe way.

Hold down the knob and enter each code. After you enter the code you can put in the values for each parameter.

Please use:
RDK-300/200

#Code 155
PSL 1.00
HL 950

#Code 166
P 25
I 0
D 3
OTH 100
APO(rdk300 only) = this is your shutoff in min. 0-999.
more info:
http://www.auberins.com/images/Manual/RDK-300_supplementary.pdf

 

[Oogendoogan]

I'd change it a little bit. "D" = 3 will make it warm up a bit more gently. The "P" can be 15-25. The temp should hold steady and not wobble. Also, like lazylathe said, the actual temp can be -10 below the set temp if you adjust "P".

"PSL" can be 1.0 too. That setting can skew things. Having it 1.0 will have it so you are looking at the real temp. Nobody is going over 1000F so there is no need for 999F * 1.03 = 1028F max temp. The point of the 1.03 was to give auber users a way of going over 999F in a safe way.

Hold down the knob and enter each code. After you enter the code you can put in the values for each parameter.

Please use:
RDK-300/200

#Code 155
PSL 1.00
HL 950

#Code 166
P 25
I 0
D 3
OTH 100
APO(rdk300 only) = this is your shutoff in min. 0-999.
more info:
http://www.auberins.com/images/Manual/RDK-300_supplementary.pdf

Right on thank you. I have a first gen Heater by the way I hope these settings are good for that. I will change mine later and try lowering the temp from 950 to like 850. My settings have been fine and the GS runs 10 degrees low as it should. But If these settings will let me go a little lower that is great. Loving the GS one last question. I will be using the EQ bucket screens for now because they work well but I also like the funnel bowl with just some crumbles on a normal screen. What screen size fits the funnel bowl? It’s bigger than all my other screens.. is it 1 inch? Hope everyone is having a great day.

Edit: thank you as well @lazylathe your advice is always appreciated and helpful. I am going to use Jo Jos settings first but I’ll try yours as well if I’m not too baked lol.

 

[lazylathe]

Right on thank you. I have a first gen Heater by the way I hope these settings are good for that. I will change mine later and try lowering the temp from 950 to like 850. My settings have been fine and the GS runs 10 degrees low as it should. But If these settings will let me go a little lower that is great. Loving the GS one last question. I will be using the EQ bucket screens for now because they work well but I also like the funnel bowl with just some crumbles on a normal screen. What screen size fits the funnel bowl? It’s bigger than all my other screens.. is it 1 inch? Hope everyone is having a great day.

Edit: thank you as well @lazylathe your advice is always appreciated and helpful. I am going to use Jo Jos settings first but I’ll try yours as well if I’m not too baked lol.

No clue about screen size...sorry!

I will also change my settings as those were the ORIGINAL settings JoJo came up with right at the start when I was shipped my GS. Not sure if I missed an update in the thread but I am super happy with my settings as they are. Will try the new ones out though and see what happens!

 

[Oogendoogan]

No clue about screen size...sorry!

I will also change my settings as those were the ORIGINAL settings JoJo came up with right at the start when I was shipped my GS. Not sure if I missed an update in the thread but I am super happy with my settings as they are. Will try the new ones out though and see what happens!

Lol so you just use the EQ baskets? If your that happy with them I think I will be too

 

[jojo monkey]

What screen size fits the funnel bowl?

The funnel bowl uses 1 inch screens. The stadium uses a custom size that is just a little larger than an inch.

Did you ever get to try the fine mesh with the funnel bowl?

Not sure if I missed an update in the thread but I am super happy with my settings as they are. Will try the new ones out though and see what happens!

The settings make the heater take longer to warm up (by a little bit). The heater will now take a few breaks on the way up to the set temp. The heater should be the same once it is stable.

But If these settings will let me go a little lower that is great.

The lowering is just taking you to the real temp. So nothing is cooler inside the heater, just looking cooler on the display.

 

[Oogendoogan]

I'd change it a little bit. "D" = 3 will make it warm up a bit more gently. The "P" can be 15-25. The temp should hold steady and not wobble. Also, like lazylathe said, the actual temp can be -10 below the set temp if you adjust "P".

"PSL" can be 1.0 too. That setting can skew things. Having it 1.0 will have it so you are looking at the real temp. Nobody is going over 1000F so there is no need for 999F * 1.03 = 1028F max temp. The point of the 1.03 was to give auber users a way of going over 999F in a safe way.

Hold down the knob and enter each code. After you enter the code you can put in the values for each parameter.

Please use:
RDK-300/200

#Code 155
PSL 1.00
HL 950

#Code 166
P 25
I 0
D 3
OTH 100
APO(rdk300 only) = this is your shutoff in min. 0-999.
more info:
http://www.auberins.com/images/Manual/RDK-300_supplementary.pdf

Ok so I will try these settings. I wanna make sure I understand you. Should I change my 155 back to 1.00? I don’t plan to run any higher than what is 950 with my current settings. My second question is with these new settings should I go lower in temp. I’ve been sitting steady at 950 and my controller displays the temp at around 940. This is the perfect temp for me but with these new settings I’m guessing I’ll be going lower?

And I couldn’t figure out that fine mesh man! You sent two pieces, the first i messed up pretty bad trying to get it in place like a screen. Is that what they’re meant for? To replace the screen? I have one more so I can give it a go. But I don’t mind a standard screen. I’ll order some 1 inch screens for my funnel bowl. My stadium bowl screen is in good shape and I hardly use that beast.

Thanks for the advice. I’m stuck at work right now but I’m gonna have a Sunday evening with the GS later. I’m exited to see if these settings make it hit even harder (if that’s possible)

I had one more question about the Glass Symphony. I got my unit second hand and when I poured the beads in I didn’t know what I was doing. I spilled them and lost some. Thanks for the extra heads @jojo monkey lol. But now there is one small gap in the beads near the bottom of the heater. I’ve taken them all out and shaken it, tapped, done everything I can while feeling safe but there’s one or two beads that are stuck, causing this issue. I haven’t been able to get my heater out because of these stuck beads that I’m afraid will break the heater if I try to remove it. Any advice here is appreciated. I guess I’m wondering if that tiny gap in the beads makes much of a difference..? The GS melts my face and it’s one tiny gap. I’m just wondering if this is affecting my performance at all.

 

[lazylathe]

@Oogendoogan

Try putting the cold GS in the freezer for 5 minutes and then try remove those 2 stuck beads.
Or you could try removing the heaters clip and gently pull up, this should not break anything if you are very careful.

In any event that small gap in the beads will not make any difference in performance as long as the heater is covered with beads.
If you are afraid of breaking something just put the beads back and go to town!

I used to run mine at 950F but it was just too much for me!!
810 is perfect at the moment.