Think this would work? https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tgi-130324-kit/overview/
It's 1:10 taper (1.200" taper/ft) and 7/8" max dia.
Could work! Although seems a bit long! Might need to modify to work properly for 18mm joints
Think this would work? https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tgi-130324-kit/overview/
It's 1:10 taper (1.200" taper/ft) and 7/8" max dia.
Shapeways emailed me today and told me they can't print my 3d porcelain stand. It passed all the automatic checks so I thought it was good, but looks like it was too thick and cracked while getting fired. Looking at the guidelines page now I see that it says at any part it can only be 50mm thick. That pretty much rules out any of the potential stands I was working on. I was thinking short, thick, and heavy when I was looking for stuff.
I'm kind of bummed, I was looking forward to getting it whether it worked as a stand or not. Though I appreciate their explanation and the picture is really helpful, for an online experience it's pretty good. I'm going to take another look at my stuff again knowing what I know now and see if any work or can be fixed. I might need to start from scratch and rethink what I'm looking for.
Hey is this still safe to use? I noticed this only today... Not sure how long it's been like this.
I think you're right about what I need to do, I just wasn't sure where to add space in there. For porcelain it needs access to hollow areas, so I'd need a hole leading to it. I guess I could of tried hollowing out the sides a bit with a hole from the bottom. They make the porcelain ones in molds rather than just 3d print them out so the rules are slightly different. I get worried the joint will break, not sure how thick I want the joint walls to be with porcelain. It takes a lot of time to find out if a print failed, I might try to make some of those changes while I wait to find out. I was bummed that one failed, I added some sentimental stuff to it and I was looking forward to getting it.If you’re still interested in making this work, have you considered hollowing out the parts that are too thick and filling those parts with extra weight yourself? Or adding a heavier base plate to the bottom after you get it?
If you have the patience you could even fit it tightly down into a wooden stand that’s large enough to hold this and your other pieces, and that should hold it pretty securely too.
I think you're right about what I need to do, I just wasn't sure where to add space in there. For porcelain it needs access to hollow areas, so I'd need a hole leading to it. I guess I could of tried hollowing out the sides a bit with a hole from the bottom. They make the porcelain ones in molds rather than just 3d print them out so the rules are slightly different. I get worried the joint will break, not sure how thick I want the joint walls to be with porcelain. It takes a lot of time to find out if a print failed, I might try to make some of those changes while I wait to find out. I was bummed that one failed, I added some sentimental stuff to it and I was looking forward to getting it.
In the new one I ordered I ended up changing the design to the top half of the deathstar and sized it so everything should be under 50mm thick at any point. This one is solid all the way through except for the joint:
I have a feeling that one will crack too so I started working on a second hollowed out version where just the center joint area is thick:
Sry i edited too late. It is found herehttps://www.t-ehle.de/en/shillums-bowls/system-EHLE-active/adapter-EHLE-active-joint-24.htmlAnd where is the adapter standing?
I never mentioned using them as stands. I meant they will be cool as bowls, because bottom airflow is wide open + i like the aesthetics .I know these pics you've already posted. May be a misunderstanding but do you intend to use the EHLEs as stands? If not what are the differences to the OG ones?
To be honest though, I really dont think the GS needs a wider open bowl. The air flows so freely with these vapes (GS, FPSH, and Herbo Ti). I think you could use a much narrower bowl and be perfectly happy with airflow and function. Some may even prefer that little added restriction.I never mentioned using them as stands. I meant they will be cool as bowls, because bottom airflow is wide open + i like the aesthetics .
Those are pretty. Kind of in between the stadium bowl and funnel bowl. You get the view of the stadium bowl but it looks more vertical and doesn't balloon out (more cylinder than sphere). A little pricey, but I'm tempted to try it out against the stadium bowl to see if there's a difference. The funnel bowl seems to me like it's already the smallest sized bowl you can safely do with 24mm. Especially using basket screens pushed down into the stem.I was looking to get a high quality glass bowl for my Gn0me and i found these. Ehle are one of the best EU brands ,so i saw they have 24mm too Costs 30 euro but i am sure the GS will stand beautifully on it ).
Edited ( On a second thought you will still need an adapter to use with 18.8,but base airflow will be extra wide.https://www.t-ehle.de/en/shillums-bowls/system-EHLE-active/adapter-EHLE-active-joint-24.html
I dont know if someone already suggested it ,but why not use as a stand a cheap 24/40 flask filled with coins/marbles/colored sand ) . They can be found at aliexpress for 11-12 $ delivered .
I think @Hogni might have suggested something similar some time back in the thread? I believe there was soke consensus that it would notnbe stable enough, but I could have gotten some (or all) or this wrong.I dont know if someone already suggested it ,but why not use as a stand a cheap 24/40 flask filled with coins/marbles/colored sand ) . They can be found at aliexpress for 11-12 $ delivered .
Well if you fill it with coins or sand i bet i will be stable enough. You can always reinforce it with wooden by cutting the OD of the flask into a wooden kitchen board for example,or maybe make something like the TUBO bubbler stands for it.I think @Hogni might have suggested something similar some time back in the thread? I believe there was soke consensus that it would notnbe stable enough, but I could have gotten some (or all) or this wrong.
Pm @jojo monkeyIs there a shop to buy spares for the GS? My friend wants to grab some parts to keep his piece nice and shiny?
Woah dude don't forget sunfactor, and send me a postcard!Here's a milk shot through a crappy phone camera.
Nice one. I never seem to milk the glass that much (the giant exhaled clouds look familiar though), I think you're inhaling a couple seconds more than I usually do. I'm going to try slowing down my draws for awhile and see if I notice a difference with anything.Here's a milk shot through a crappy phone camera.
I was thinking about these again and I wondered how screen placement might be. A lot of the other bowls have a bulge/slot/ring to get a screen stuck into. A basket screen could work well though I think.I was looking to get a high quality glass bowl for my Gn0me and i found these. Ehle are one of the best EU brands ,so i saw they have 24mm too Costs 30 euro but i am sure the GS will stand beautifully on it ).
Edited ( On a second thought you will still need an adapter to use with 18.8,but base airflow will be extra wide.https://www.t-ehle.de/en/shillums-bowls/system-EHLE-active/adapter-EHLE-active-joint-24.html