Discontinued Glass Symphony XLR

StormyPinkness

Rhymenocerous ʕ•ᴥ•ʔ
Sorry for the double post. I was trying to distract myself from thinking about something a couple of weeks ago and made some vapor exhale videos/gifs. I always get such huge clouds from this thing, like a fog. I fucking love this thing.

The bowl on this is overloaded, a little under a bowl and half. I had "too much" for 1 bowl and too little for 2, so I just did it all. Also the video is rough as hell, I'm using an old monitor for a backdrop and the lighting is pretty bad. It was fun doing it though, anytime I screwed up a video I did another. I ended up making many, many videos and I only kept 2 or 3 of them.

giphy.gif


giphy.gif

 

StormyPinkness

Rhymenocerous ʕ•ᴥ•ʔ
Wow! What temp was that? Do you have the old heater or the new?
I have the old heater and it was at 855 (so 755 on the new one?). Also it was probably closer to 2 bowls than 1.5, I was pretty gone afterwards. The videos past hit 2 are all much, much worse. I started getting spacey and aiming off camera and ham handedly messing with focus and stuff.
 

Hogni

Honi soit qui mal y pense
Not so esy to find your msg in the mentioned post. Here again:

"Does the glass symphony work with newvapes pid controller?"

I' not sure.
 

lazylathe

Almost there...
Thanks Lazy!

No problemo!!
As i have mentioned in other threads, why not spend a bit more on a quality controller and the just rewire your XLR connectors to your controller pin outs?
I find i only use one vape at a time and it works perfectly for me.

Unfortunately there is no standardized pin out for XLR connectors due to their wide range of applications.
 

StormyPinkness

Rhymenocerous ʕ•ᴥ•ʔ
Not @Aezhenn this time, all my noob woodworking skills.
Any chance you could tell me what kind of drill bit you used? I've only ever drilled holes in my walls to mount things so I have no idea about this stuff, I am 0% woodworker.

I'm trying to get a 3d printed porcelain stand going, but honestly after looking at your pics I'm starting to think I'll be happier with a beautiful wooden stand like that. I'm really getting into wood and glass lately and it'd be fun hunting down the wood I want to use.
 
StormyPinkness,
  • Like
Reactions: lazylathe

Cl4ud3

Well-Known Member
The stand you made is beautiful @Cl4ud3 :tup: What kind of burl did you use?

Thanks :) It's Red Mallee burl, found a place in the UK that gets them in from Australia, it was rock hard to work with though.

Any chance you could tell me what kind of drill bit you used? I've only ever drilled holes in my walls to mount things so I have no idea about this stuff, I am 0% woodworker.

I bought a set of Forstner bits for the accessory stand I did last year and used them here again. Not properly tapered or anything, I'm no woodworker :D I got mine from e-bay and they were cheap (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5-16-Pce...m-54mm-/252276046184?var=&hash=item3abcd2f968) but doing it again I'd get a better set than these.

For the bowls though I did drill an 18/19 hole to a certain depth and then a smaller one inside and deeper to give them more stability.

I was also thinking of just buying a plain 24/40 joint and mounting that in the wood.

That was my original plan but finding them here was a bit of a pain and I was short on funds. I did have one from a broken water pipe but it cracked as I was trying to cut it down. :(
 

StormyPinkness

Rhymenocerous ʕ•ᴥ•ʔ
@StormyPinkness

I would also be interested in how to achieve a perfectly tapered hole for our GS to sit in!
This is the closest i could come up with:
https://www.homedepot.com/b/Tools-Power-Tool-Accessories-Drill-Bits-Step-Bits/N-5yc1vZc90q

I was also thinking of just buying a plain 24/40 joint and mounting that in the wood.
Nice, those look good. @Ratchett told me the joints are at a 1:10 ratio, that shape would be perfect if I can find that ratio on one. So far it hasn't been as easy as just googling it or searching on ebay/amazon for "1:10 drill bit", most the time it isn't listed (or I don't know where to look). I've found a couple 10:1 drill bits, no 1:10 though. I'm going to keep looking, I'm getting into this.
 

Delta3DStudios

Well-Known Member
Accessory Maker
So far it hasn't been as easy as just googling it or searching on ebay/amazon for "1:10 drill bit", most the time it isn't listed (or I don't know where to look). I've found a couple 10:1 drill bits, no 1:10 though. I'm going to keep looking, I'm getting into this.

Yeah, that's the problem, they don't really exist for the size diameters we need, I've looked haha.

The best bet for a tapered fitting is to drill an over-sized hole and glue a glass female joint.
 

StormyPinkness

Rhymenocerous ʕ•ᴥ•ʔ
Yeah, that's the problem, they don't really exist for the size diameters we need, I've looked haha.

The best bet for a tapered fitting is to drill an over-sized hole and glue a glass female joint.
I'm pretty sure it's a dumb question but I don't suppose 3d printed drill bits are a thing yet? Googling it isn't showing me anything to make me thing so. I know you can do 3d print with metal, I have no idea about hardness of the prints or anything like that though.
 
StormyPinkness,

lazylathe

Almost there...
What type of grind is everyone using with their Glass Symphony?

I tried 3 different grinders today, for science and the betterment of mankind of course!

On the line was my KannaStor Vape GR8TR with the fine plate, Lift grinder with the fine plate and my 2 piece Santa Cruz Shredder.
Different strains went through all the grinders for testing purposes.

The GS works so much better with a fine grind than anything else i tried today!
The Lift and SCS all had green bits left over in the bowl. I would say due to the coarseness of the grind.
The fine grind was more completely vaporized and the lighter specks were a lighter tan color, so they had also been vaped more effectively.
Vapor production came on faster and the vapor was thicker, most likely due to the slight compression of the fine grind during the inhale.

A worthy day of testing to prove to myself i have been using the right grinder for my needs!!
Using this vape all day can be dangerous...
 

Delta3DStudios

Well-Known Member
Accessory Maker
I'm pretty sure it's a dumb question but I don't suppose 3d printed drill bits are a thing yet? Googling it isn't showing me anything to make me thing so. I know you can do 3d print with metal, I have no idea about hardness of the prints or anything like that though.

It could be designed, but the cost to 3D print a metal bit strong enough to cut wood would cost somewhere in the vicinity of $500 to $1000 to 3D print one copy using the only metal 3D printers capable of directly laser sintering metal.

A more affordable option would be to use a CNC lathe to carve the tool bit from a solid rod of steel, but again the cost for machining would be several hundred dollars. Sadly there isn't enough demand for a specialized tool bit like this to lower the manufacturing costs.

I'm working on investing in a mill which will be capable of carving these tapered holes precisely for me, but even a standard 18mm joint would take several minutes and several passes with the mill to fully bore and smooth out a joint.


Not sure how well these would work on wood or if the taper is right, but we used to use these ball joint reamers on 4x4 tie rod ends. Like this: https://www.speedwaymotors.com/AFCO-80771-Tapered-Ball-Joint-Reamer-10-Degree,23749.html

Try searching for tapered reamers or the like.

HTH!

Indeed I've looked into these reamers and it was as close as I could get to something that might work, the problem is a 10 degree angle is too steep. a 1:10 ratio is approximately 5.7 degree angle.

Finding something with a 5.7 degree angle which is the critical number, with a max diameter of 1 inch simply doesn't exist.
 
Top Bottom