Thank you to all who were able to grab one!
Still two left as I type this, and it seems like light green is a color I won't be reordering.
Still two left as I type this, and it seems like light green is a color I won't be reordering.
Fluxer Heaters, induction heaters for Dynavap
- Thread starter mr_cfromcali
- Start date
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- Tags
- induction heater
rvarick
Well-Known Member
Had a chance to try my updated Flite PCB today. Jeff kindly quickly send me a replacement PCB when I had issues with my original one’s BMS (most likely, still TBD).
The new one was tuned-down heating wise, and I’m thinking/guessing mine may be the new cooler configuration that’s now standard. I’m happy to report that when using it at full power (with pretty full batteries) I’m getting 3 cycles now with my Ti tip and 2019 cap (vs. 1-2 before). It’s still a heavy hitter but I’m liking the speed and effects it offers! I’m looking forward to playing around with what the PWM will provide as well.
Thanks to Jeff for the responsive and transparent CS. You’ve got a happy customer here
The new one was tuned-down heating wise, and I’m thinking/guessing mine may be the new cooler configuration that’s now standard. I’m happy to report that when using it at full power (with pretty full batteries) I’m getting 3 cycles now with my Ti tip and 2019 cap (vs. 1-2 before). It’s still a heavy hitter but I’m liking the speed and effects it offers! I’m looking forward to playing around with what the PWM will provide as well.
Thanks to Jeff for the responsive and transparent CS. You’ve got a happy customer here
I attempted to lower the CaS tuning late last night. Did not test it yet with a full load, just dry - but I had some success. Will test later tonight with some special sauce.
After reading mr_c's instructions that the button must come out - I managed to remove the PCB. Since I have both CaS and button it was a little more difficult. Removing the button was easy, unplugging from the board with care was nerve wracking, but did it. getting it back in took at least 5mins trying to figure out the best way to get that ring back over the button wire/plug, lol. I figured out a good method now with tweezers so it's quick for the future.
Anyway, even though I thought I pushed the coil down all the way while it was still in the case, I did not. Upon removing the board I had at least 1-2 mm before the pads. I gently gently pulled back that heat sensor and pushed as much down as I could with my nails. I managed to get 3 sides all the way down. But the right side that is next to the top board is impossible for me to get my fingers in there. Any ideas, tricks? (so looking down at the tube left,top,bottom the coil is down to the pads, but right side a tiny bit higher still)
Got it all back together.. and lucky, still works
now it's 9-9.5s to click from cold. Wondering if I can get it even lower by getting that right side down also.
What is your time to click @rvarick for your 2019 DV with full insertion w/CaS?
thanks all,
n
After reading mr_c's instructions that the button must come out - I managed to remove the PCB. Since I have both CaS and button it was a little more difficult. Removing the button was easy, unplugging from the board with care was nerve wracking, but did it. getting it back in took at least 5mins trying to figure out the best way to get that ring back over the button wire/plug, lol. I figured out a good method now with tweezers so it's quick for the future.
Anyway, even though I thought I pushed the coil down all the way while it was still in the case, I did not. Upon removing the board I had at least 1-2 mm before the pads. I gently gently pulled back that heat sensor and pushed as much down as I could with my nails. I managed to get 3 sides all the way down. But the right side that is next to the top board is impossible for me to get my fingers in there. Any ideas, tricks? (so looking down at the tube left,top,bottom the coil is down to the pads, but right side a tiny bit higher still)
Got it all back together.. and lucky, still works
now it's 9-9.5s to click from cold. Wondering if I can get it even lower by getting that right side down also.What is your time to click @rvarick for your 2019 DV with full insertion w/CaS?
thanks all,
n
TommyDee
Vaporitor
Good move @n0tu2 - There will always be a helical rise going around the coil. You are essentially moving the center of the magnetic field 'closer' to the clicker. Be sure to take an evaluation throughout the charge. If you really want it tuned down, I know Jeff will help get you to the 'perfect' heater. It could require a soldering iron 
There are two catches on the little white connector that are quite functional in connector retention.
This is the connector on the switch turned upside down. On the outer edges there are 2 prongs. Snip them and future disconnects will be a little easier. These retaining features are not necessary in this implementation.
.
There are two catches on the little white connector that are quite functional in connector retention.
This is the connector on the switch turned upside down. On the outer edges there are 2 prongs. Snip them and future disconnects will be a little easier. These retaining features are not necessary in this implementation.
.
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ahh, I think I get it. Maybe next time if I get the courage for another go. It did click back in when I reassembled. So that means nerves again when removing. I feared yanking the plug it connects into off the board if I used too much force pulling. The two little flaring nubs is what your talking about yeah near the very end of the plug? I sort of loosened the top flares with a jewelers screw driver prying a little on each side then yanked straight out with my nails, it was tight - all the while saying please dont yank the connector off the board, lol. Mine doesn't have the shielding on it..just red n black wires.
so to get the right side lower desolder the bottom coil drop it down and resolder? I have an iron.. but do I want to push my luck. hmm?
so to get the right side lower desolder the bottom coil drop it down and resolder? I have an iron.. but do I want to push my luck. hmm?
coolmist55
Member
The red looks like it will nicely match the Brilliant Cut Grinder & Decapper Tool's Ruby Red color. I bet the Hunter green w/ green button is the winner if there were one to choose from.Thank you to all who were able to grab one!
Still two left as I type this, and it seems like light green is a color I won't be reordering.
TommyDee
Vaporitor
That one is between you and Mr C.
If you're capable, then yes, that is what I am suggesting.
As with all things soldering - it is a three-handed operation.
Oh, missed the connector question - a lot of the grip is the contacts themselves. Working it side to side seems to work it out with little stress to the connector. Definitely remove the nut first and put it back last
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I have been out running some errands and just got back to the thread, so I'm jumping directly to this comment. Yes, that is the same way I will drop the coil if one sends it back to me for this adjustment. There is one additional consideration when doing this, which is that the magnet wire (as it is called) used to make the coil has an enamel coating. I strip this off before I solder to it, as solder won't stick properly to the enamel coating. If you are intent on resoldering this yourself, you will need to look at the wire you are about to lower and verify that enough enamel is exposed to permit solder to stick after the coil leg is repositioned.
Please note that I am very happy to correct this for you! Just send me a PM and I'll send a shipping label, etc.
No worries mr_c, I know you would! Will the offer stand for a while? I'm a tinkerer so I will mess with it a bit as its usable. It could very well be this cap too. I ordered a couple new ones incl. a low temp as the ones I have especially my fav one has been through hell. over click flamed +3,4 seconds, baked in a 510 boxmod coil, you name it. Still clicks but may be off a little from the abuse.
What goal should I shoot for the coolest configuration as far as time to click from stone cold/dry? I earlier stated a halfway dip into the tube will click the cap at about 6 or so seconds. I got it to about 9s fully inserted with adjustments. Are these timings still out of range/not normal?
What goal should I shoot for the coolest configuration as far as time to click from stone cold/dry? I earlier stated a halfway dip into the tube will click the cap at about 6 or so seconds. I got it to about 9s fully inserted with adjustments. Are these timings still out of range/not normal?
Zoltani
Well-Known Member
That’s the one I snagged
rvarick
Well-Known Member
Just checked and mine is down to ~9.82 secs from cold with an empty Ti tip. My old PCB was running just under 16 secs to click so quite a change!I attempted to lower the CaS tuning late last night. Did not test it yet with a full load, just dry - but I had some success. Will test later tonight with some special sauce.
After reading mr_c's instructions that the button must come out - I managed to remove the PCB. Since I have both CaS and button it was a little more difficult. Removing the button was easy, unplugging from the board with care was nerve wracking, but did it. getting it back in took at least 5mins trying to figure out the best way to get that ring back over the button wire/plug, lol. I figured out a good method now with tweezers so it's quick for the future.
Anyway, even though I thought I pushed the coil down all the way while it was still in the case, I did not. Upon removing the board I had at least 1-2 mm before the pads. I gently gently pulled back that heat sensor and pushed as much down as I could with my nails. I managed to get 3 sides all the way down. But the right side that is next to the top board is impossible for me to get my fingers in there. Any ideas, tricks? (so looking down at the tube left,top,bottom the coil is down to the pads, but right side a tiny bit higher still)
Got it all back together.. and lucky, still works
What is your time to click @rvarick for your 2019 DV with full insertion w/CaS?
thanks all,
n
Momor
Well-Known Member
Even though I was few hours late to the party, I'm very happy I managed to snag a flite yesterday.
That will be my first IH and I'm very excited about it.
I went for the push button switch and hot coil position thinking that in case it would be to hot when the tip is at the very bottom of the heater (for one handed operation), I still can but a cork or silicon pad at the bottom to make the heater a bit cooler. Am I right?
That will be my first IH and I'm very excited about it.
I went for the push button switch and hot coil position thinking that in case it would be to hot when the tip is at the very bottom of the heater (for one handed operation), I still can but a cork or silicon pad at the bottom to make the heater a bit cooler. Am I right?
Zoltani
Well-Known Member
I think that you made the right decision to go with the hotter setup with the push button. That will give you a lot of control over how the load bakes. The problem with the hotter heater comes with the CaS in my opinion as there is no way to adjust the heat applied to the load by moving up or down.
@TommyDee With a full battery and a cold dynavap using CaS at full power I got 16 seconds to the second click on my '18 cap. I know you said that this cap runs hotter than other so does that increased time to click line up with your thinking?
My gold arrived yesterday and getting to know it still. Mine was #24, so I believe I have the lower temp setting. And I really can't imagine wanting hotter. with PWM turned on to the stock 50/50% setting, I consider a low temp cap a necessity. Taking out the stock captive cap and Titanium, it was combustion by first click.
And I want to confirm that a rapid light blinking and clicking on and off is to be expected if Dynavap isn't being held completely vertical. Should that be happening?
Look forward to gettting to know this better and dialing my hits in.
And I want to confirm that a rapid light blinking and clicking on and off is to be expected if Dynavap isn't being held completely vertical. Should that be happening?
Look forward to gettting to know this better and dialing my hits in.
Zoltani
Well-Known Member
Yes, the blinking and clicking you are descibing is the "glitchy" behavior when using the CaS with the PWM as we have discussed, do you have CaS? You may need to put more pressure to use the CaS with PWM.
75% on 25% off works really well for me and gives a nice bake, 4 cycles. I don't insert all the way sometimes though, or start pulling out after the first click while suing the button. Just depends on the experience I want. CaS is a more limited in this.
I'll reiterate for anyone that will order in future, I really think CaS plus button is way to go unless you just hate buttons and want a really streamlined look.
The Chemist
New member but long time lurker
This is exactly why I choose to get mine in red, to match with my red BCG and, D-capper.
This is gonna be my out of the house Vapcap kit, I want red because I have an habit of forgetting my stuff on the table when I leave at the end of the evening fully medicated. Even if I really like black and gray for stealth, I think red is gonna be better to grab my attention and make sure I don't leave those expensive toys at my friends home.
Now if only I could get out and be able to visit my friends that would be great.
Thanks. Thought I was following the thread closely, but apparently not...
This flite is my first "real" pro IH also. Fundamental differences from using a torch take into consideration that when using torch you are heating the cap and heat is transferring into the chamber and metal parts from the outside in. IH heats the tip and I believe the interior metals as well simultaneously (albeit at different rates) but theoretically even the CCD and the internal tip is also heating up when actively running the IH coil on it. If the temp inside is more then the temp outside prior to cap click, combustion occur on sides or bottom (small bits) - if it's bad enough it will ignite like joint. I've had that happen, full combustion you will see thick white smoke coming out of the tip, and it won't stop It's a balancing act. Trying to get to the click and have it be perfect every time after full insertion is the fun part. Sometimes pulling before the click or partial insertion with timed energized coil on second heatup works better with IH imo. Maybe 7 seconds or so to maintain temp. It's a new way for me and I'm adapting/tinkering.
It's a balancing act. Trying to get to the click and have it be perfect every time after full insertion is the fun part. Sometimes pulling before the click or partial insertion with timed energized coil on second heatup works better with IH imo. Maybe 7 seconds or so to maintain temp. It's a new way for me and I'm adapting/tinkering.I also thought I might add I've watched countless videos of people using IH's. Many people going 1 second past click, 2 seconds past click, etc. NOT with flite (unless you partial dip in the tube, or have a quick clicking cool cap). It's very powerful for its size, that's for sure.
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Yeah, that's why I consider the low temp cap almost mandatory with the Flite. At least with Ti tip and the later temp tuning of batch 1.