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Fluxer Heaters, induction heaters for Dynavap

JRansom

Member
Just a quick question: Does he post on here when he’s getting ready to restock? Also, has there been any updates on restocks for the Flite? Lol I don’t have a ton of disposable income, so the IH I get will be the only one I get for the foreseeable future. I’d really prefer to not get the Rover and there’s no chance I can hold out another 6-12 months for the Flux Deluxe, so I’m really hoping the Flite’s will be getting restocked sometime soon-ish.
 

mr_cfromcali

Accessory Maker
Accessory Maker
Just a quick question: Does he post on here when he’s getting ready to restock? Also, has there been any updates on restocks for the Flite? Lol I don’t have a ton of disposable income, so the IH I get will be the only one I get for the foreseeable future. I’d really prefer to not get the Rover and there’s no chance I can hold out another 6-12 months for the Flux Deluxe, so I’m really hoping the Flite’s will be getting restocked sometime soon-ish.

Thanks for your interest in my heaters. The short answer is I have been taking a break from new sales since late March while waiting for the PACT situation to become clearer; the delay in finalizing the rules hasn’t helped.

I have been working on another project in the interim, and need to see that through to a stopping point before I switch back to Fluxer.

That’s the current state of things: not actively selling at the moment, but still hope to return to sales this summer if I can.

There are a lot of IH options these days. I need to see if hand made Fluxers still make sense in the current market. They may not. :shrug:

I hope that helps for now, and I hope to be back with a more definitive answer soon.

Cheers!
 

RustyOldNail

SEARCH for the treasure...
Jeff,
I think I can speak for most, we hope you end up making more GREAT IH’s!

No comparison from mass produced ensembly line units to your hand made models. I won’t mention the products released by a major producer, or all the cheap ones jumping on the bandwagon. I’ve lurked on those threads and have sympathy, but many don’t bother to read and research. Buy CHEAP, buy TWICE.... unfortunately many of these products are not cheap, and don’t deliver the best experience.

So far, from everything I’ve seen and read, IH’s are continuing to be sold and delivered, so hopefully when and if you decide to continue, more potential customers can enjoy your products. GOOD LUCK !
 

JRansom

Member
There are a lot of IH options these days. I need to see if hand made Fluxers still make sense in the current market. They may not. :shrug:

I hope that helps for now, and I hope to be back with a more definitive answer soon.

Cheers!
No no no….I assure you they still make sense (I obviously have no idea)! Lol please, for all that is good and holy, make another run. You sell out quickly and are known as the best for a reason!

I’m not saying anything specific but I can tip for some insider info if you decide to make another batch. OR just one more for a long time admirer and not yet owner of one! Either or…
 

RobbIt

Well-Known Member
Thanks for your interest in my heaters. The short answer is I have been taking a break from new sales since late March while waiting for the PACT situation to become clearer; the delay in finalizing the rules hasn’t helped.

I have been working on another project in the interim, and need to see that through to a stopping point before I switch back to Fluxer.

That’s the current state of things: not actively selling at the moment, but still hope to return to sales this summer if I can.

There are a lot of IH options these days. I need to see if hand made Fluxers still make sense in the current market. They may not. :shrug:

I hope that helps for now, and I hope to be back with a more definitive answer soon.

Cheers!
Jeff, yes the IH industry will survive without Fluxer. But without craftsman like you (you are at the head of that class!!), it will not thrive.

We’ve seen four Dynavap IHs (including Orion v2) and we are still at mediocre+. I for one hope this specialty business doesn’t turn into yet another exercise in corporate control and the eventual stifling of smaller companies. They’ll eventually figure it out, but they will continue to lag compared to the artisan pieces you create. 🙏🏻 Robb

PS the other excellent craftsman (eg Pops Portside and Steve VHB) can’t keep up with existing demand either.
 

TommyDee

Vaporitor
I'm doing full daily dosing sessions with FireFlite [Flite #0000] charging to exactly 12.6V daily.
Flite's capability was vetted @ 1 gram / full charge. @1.5-amp charge rate, it is less than an hour to full charge.

Big Broth'a w/18650 could be 3 times that easily. The tech is simply awesome.
 

mr_cfromcali

Accessory Maker
Accessory Maker
If he does come back, I would love to see the Flux Deluxe v2. Updated with PWM and cap as switch. I love my Flite, just wish the batteries lasted longer

I hear you, @DHV8654 , and I want those features as well. Without writing a novel-length reply, let me just say that the FD has a LOT of v1.0 in its DNA. It's very hand made and I need to use a lot of craft and skill to build it cleanly. Frankly, it requires too many separate steps to construct for what it is. I've learned a lot about how to make these heaters since FD v1.0 debuted in 2018. Compared to what I'm able to achieve with the Flix and the Flite, the current FD design doesn't pencil out. It's too labor intensive to construct for what it is and what it does. FD v2 needs a better feature set, to be sure, but more importantly I need to make it simpler to build...without sacrificing quality, performance, or reliability.

NBD, right? :lol: I've been working the problem on and off for a while now and have tried a few potential solutions, but I haven't found the winner yet. My hunt for better a FD v2 design continues. :sherlock:

If he does come back

I would like to come back. I'm hopeful it will happen before the end of the summer. I can't pivot back to Fluxer immediately, however, as I have some other tasks on my plate that require my attention. Fluxer was very time consuming for me before the pandemic hit, and the last 15 months has been even crazier in that regard: I launched Flix v1 almost exactly a year ago, followed by Flite (w/assist from @TommyDee :bowdown:) and Flix v2 in December/January, in spite of the pandemic. Then I had to deal with Paypal shutting me down - which I overcame through customer support, thank you! :love:- followed by PACT and its attendant BS :bang:. FML, that's enough for one guy to deal with in a year! It was time to take a break. I have a life beyond Fluxer, and I needed to switch off for a while and tend to some other stuff.

Thank you all for your support, and for remaining interested in my induction heaters!
:love:
I hope to resume selling new heaters soon! :)

Cheers,
:leaf:
 
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RustyOldNail

SEARCH for the treasure...
Noticed it was my 1 YEAR ANNIVERSARY of receiving my Fluxer Deluxe.

SHOUT OUT to Jeff!

Thanks for creating the BEST IH in my opinion, and a few others.. Built like a tank, functioning flawlessly. (Toast-R-Oven approved)

Time to CELEBRATE, let’s get TOASTED!!!

5E6D3867-C81B-4FCC-A143-1C9EF494651F.jpeg
 

GRZ

Well-Known Member
Absolutely loving my Flix v2 with my 2018 M, 2018 Ti tip, and standard cap! Currently around 13 sec on first heat up, and around 11 sec on second. Three cycles clears the bowl (smallest bowl setting). To closer simulate a longer single torch heat up, if I increase the coil gap by 2mm, how much of an increase in heat up time can I expect with this setup? Is it easy to revert back to my current setting by eye balling the gap I had before? It currently seems to be set for the middle performance best I can tell. Thanks.
 
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RustyOldNail

SEARCH for the treasure...
Absolutely loving my Flix v2 with my 2018 M, 2018 Ti tip, and standard cap! Currently around 13 sec on first heat up, and around 11 sec on second. Three cycles clears the bowl (smallest bowl setting). To closer simulate a longer single torch heat up, if I increase the coil gap by 2mm, how much of an increase in heat up time can I expect with this setup? Is it easy to revert back to my current setting by eye balling the gap I had before? It currently seems to be set for the middle performance best I can tell. Thanks.

I don’t own a Flix, but on my FD, 1mm adjustments can effect the click by 1-3 seconds. Start with small adjustments.
 

TommyDee

Vaporitor
@GRZ - 1mm is a large adjustment with these small coils. We are moving the delay for the heat getting to the clicker. By moving the clicker closer to the middle of the coil concentrates the heat closer to the clicker activating it earlier. Maybe cut a disk of wood or silicon to try the different offsets before you commit the coil to a particular position.

Flite F0000 still delivering a treat. Saw a Flite went for $303 on Reddit and there is/was a FD on today for $200.
 

GRZ

Well-Known Member
Thanks for the info and tips guys!

TommyDee - If I keep my coil adjustment where it is now and start placing a disc down in the coil to experiment with offsets, wouldn't it always shorten my current heat up time? I want to experiment with increasing the heat up time. Or, are you saying first increase the coil gap and then experiment from there with disc offsets?

How long of a heat up time from a cold start are most of you using?
 

TommyDee

Vaporitor
True that @GRZ - adding disks will shorten the time -and- reduce the bake. You would want to start with the hottest setting and add disks to tame the bake.

When I tune, I tune to frustrate combustion; I gauge my second heating in a session as the money hit - Get the terps, moisture, and some lightweight goodies out of the way on the first heating and really cook the second. This means heat - draw - force-cool to click - and heat again to the click - and draw for all the money, here George would exclaim "w/ air port wide open!" . I don't do air ports personally.

You will find that this kind of tune also translates well to other caps, hot or not. A hotter cap will click faster than the newer caps. Yet they all provide a very similar experience using the technique above. The easy way to look at it is 'how many watts did you cap absorb?'

There is @phattpiggie 's Sip&Dip method that really lets you get comfortable with your bowl. I find myself doing the 3rd draw to completion. I like the technique above... I do want to feel the first draw and see cloudiness at the click but the second should be what you want in every draw and not combust any of your caps. Adding the S&D to finish off the bowl really does give you some excellent control over getting to that popcorn state. 3-count; draw; 3-count; draw.. rinse/repeat until she's spent.

So before you change the coil, see if your Flix is set hot enough - forget the seconds - cakes take 25 minutes and babies take 9 months, ...caps vary, not the IH imparting watts to the VC. Do as above and is the second draw wimpy? Raise the coil away from the board until you get that perfect second draw. However, if you use the technique above and you combust the second draw, you will be lowering the coil until that shit stops happening. This you can simulate with spacers up front before you make an adjustment.

I hope all that is clear. Let me know where I put fog in the vision.
 

RustyOldNail

SEARCH for the treasure...
True that @GRZ - adding disks will shorten the time -and- reduce the bake. You would want to start with the hottest setting and add disks to tame the bake.

When I tune, I tune to frustrate combustion; I gauge my second heating in a session as the money hit - Get the terps, moisture, and some lightweight goodies out of the way on the first heating and really cook the second. This means heat - draw - force-cool to click - and heat again to the click - and draw for all the money, here George would exclaim "w/ air port wide open!" . I don't do air ports personally.

You will find that this kind of tune also translates well to other caps, hot or not. A hotter cap will click faster than the newer caps. Yet they all provide a very similar experience using the technique above. The easy way to look at it is 'how many watts did you cap absorb?'

There is @phattpiggie 's Sip&Dip method that really lets you get comfortable with your bowl. I find myself doing the 3rd draw to completion. I like the technique above... I do want to feel the first draw and see cloudiness at the click but the second should be what you want in every draw and not combust any of your caps. Adding the S&D to finish off the bowl really does give you some excellent control over getting to that popcorn state. 3-count; draw; 3-count; draw.. rinse/repeat until she's spent.

So before you change the coil, see if your Flix is set hot enough - forget the seconds - cakes take 25 minutes and babies take 9 months, ...caps vary, not the IH imparting watts to the VC. Do as above and is the second draw wimpy? Raise the coil away from the board until you get that perfect second draw. However, if you use the technique above and you combust the second draw, you will be lowering the coil until that shit stops happening. This you can simulate with spacers up front before you make an adjustment.

I hope all that is clear. Let me know where I put fog in the vision.

Nice description TD. My FD is tuned hot at full charge (3x bats full chg. 12.6 volts). The technique I use, not sure it has a name, one of the 3 George talked about with Josh, and their IH tech., in a Dynavap video. This has been mentioned before in this thread as well.

1) Heat to click
NO INHALE
2) Straight to magnet cool-down click.
3) Heat to click again
4) HIT
*Airport optional, user choice. My water stems have no port.
This gives you a huge HERO HIT, on your FIRST HIT, my 2nd hit, is actually the 3rd heat cycle, cleans up what’s left.
NOTE: A lot can be learned on your settings, by watching the vapor production in a clear water rig, during each hit.
 

TommyDee

Vaporitor
Indeed @RustyOldNail - I was present at one of those sessions when George seemed a bit frustrated by a rash of complaints with the 2020-M release. I share the method on Reddit when appropriate. IIRC, George did say to email teatime if this method didn't work for the newbie. To be clear, the session I watched, George did specify air port wide open and 'draw like heck!'. The concession was an optional 'small first draw'. These are important elements but I, like most, go beyond even this revelation that was an honor to witness from da'Man himself. This was something I was zeroing in on tuning IH at that time and George's affirmation was the cherry on top. This is what guided the Fluxer Flite tuning effort.

The other revelation in this session was what George thought about a third draw - 'why would you want the third draw?' ... tastes terrible bla bla... Tells me that anything past a second great hit is bonus! ...and some great headiness.

I wish I could find that video again - I think it got deep-six'd as it was a rare event on film.
 
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RustyOldNail

SEARCH for the treasure...
Indeed @RustyOldNail - I was present at one of those sessions when George seemed a bit frustrated by a rash of complaints with the 2020-M release. I share the method on Reddit when appropriate. IIRC, George did say to email teatime if this method didn't work for the newbie. To be clear, the session I watched, George did specify air port wide open and 'draw like heck!'. The concession was an optional 'small first draw'. These are important elements but I, like most, go beyond even this revelation that was an honor to witness from da'Man himself. This was something I was zeroing in on tuning IH at that time and George's affirmation was the cherry on top. This is what guided the Fluxer Flite tuning effort.

The other revelation in this session was what George thought about a third draw - 'why would you want the third draw?' ... tastes terrible bla bla... Tells me that anything past a second great hit is bonus! ...and some great headiness.

I wish I could find that video again - I think it got deep-six'd as it was a rare event on film.

Hanging with George, cool.

Yeah, I can extract almost a filled tip on the first hit, 2nd heat cycle, and 3rd heatup, my second hit kills it, but it’s not wispy. Long ago, I probably could inhale enough to kill in one hit, but DV didn’t exist!

When using a stem with an airport, I would leave it open, as George describes.
 

RustyOldNail

SEARCH for the treasure...
LOL not quite hangin' with but virtual like many of us. That would be the bomb! I really like not combusting. This knowledge is such a big part of it ;]

Ha, miss read your post.... George should have you over, you could help his IH team!

They call the technique I like, the “SKIP A CYCLE”.

For new DV & IH users, here are 2 DV videos with IH heating tips/techniques:

SHORT VERSION:


LONG VERSION with George & his IH techie:

 

GRZ

Well-Known Member
True that @GRZ - adding disks will shorten the time -and- reduce the bake. You would want to start with the hottest setting and add disks to tame the bake.

When I tune, I tune to frustrate combustion; I gauge my second heating in a session as the money hit - Get the terps, moisture, and some lightweight goodies out of the way on the first heating and really cook the second. This means heat - draw - force-cool to click - and heat again to the click - and draw for all the money, here George would exclaim "w/ air port wide open!" . I don't do air ports personally.

You will find that this kind of tune also translates well to other caps, hot or not. A hotter cap will click faster than the newer caps. Yet they all provide a very similar experience using the technique above. The easy way to look at it is 'how many watts did you cap absorb?'

There is @phattpiggie 's Sip&Dip method that really lets you get comfortable with your bowl. I find myself doing the 3rd draw to completion. I like the technique above... I do want to feel the first draw and see cloudiness at the click but the second should be what you want in every draw and not combust any of your caps. Adding the S&D to finish off the bowl really does give you some excellent control over getting to that popcorn state. 3-count; draw; 3-count; draw.. rinse/repeat until she's spent.

So before you change the coil, see if your Flix is set hot enough - forget the seconds - cakes take 25 minutes and babies take 9 months, ...caps vary, not the IH imparting watts to the VC. Do as above and is the second draw wimpy? Raise the coil away from the board until you get that perfect second draw. However, if you use the technique above and you combust the second draw, you will be lowering the coil until that shit stops happening. This you can simulate with spacers up front before you make an adjustment.

I hope all that is clear. Let me know where I put fog in the vision.
Thanks TommyDee, your description is very clear and helpful! Can't wait to fine tune the FLix just a little to dial it in.
 

Cannabiker

Well-Known Member
I like to pull the DV before the first click, when I start to see terp vape pouring out from around the cap--I don't want to miss out on that. Every hit from a DV is forward-weighted, since it has already extracted before the draw, and that effect is magic on the terp hit. I draw the terp hit quickly, then put it right back in the Fluxer. The second hit is already primed for rapid extraction. I get one more hit after that, but it's just the dregs.
 
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