cx714
Unregulated Tendencies
I heard similar from Marc directly so I jumped. Worth it.
Firewood Vaporizer
- Thread starter Bouldorado
- Start date
Real shame the man won't let the lab glass place make me dimpled mouthpieces anymore.
I got my 14mm male j hook today (already paid when they intervened, so they still made it) It is perfect. The extra length puts it in just the right position for comfortable holding.
Supposedly their first j hook, I reckon the blower knows what he is doing. The tapered end is exactly the same diameter as my elev8 j hook.
My little L hook looks tiny next to it.
I got my 14mm male j hook today (already paid when they intervened, so they still made it) It is perfect. The extra length puts it in just the right position for comfortable holding.
Supposedly their first j hook, I reckon the blower knows what he is doing. The tapered end is exactly the same diameter as my elev8 j hook.
My little L hook looks tiny next to it.
cx714
Unregulated Tendencies
I got onto this thread stalking j-hooks like yours. It’s a beaut.
Absolutely stunning. OGB? Yingmin? Can somebody plz contact a blower to copycat these pieces.
Easywider
Simple is the way
Corvoed
Farm Grower
about half a week or so into my FW7, I still like it alot! Natively it hits like a dream, absolutely no complaints for that. But how are you guys hitting it through a bong? I have the wpa, but I can never get the bong to milk up with the FW7, and every time I do get nice big hits with the fw7 through glass, I pretty much end up combusting and have to clean my device. It just feels really inconsistent through glass for me.
Shit Snacks
Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
Absolutely stunning. OGB? Yingmin? Can somebody plz contact a blower to copycat these pieces.
OGB is more expensive, for him to do the larger hook, he doesn't do spikes that intricate even, he is always an option but it is a different option... Yingmin is good people and responsive via message and chat on DHgate, they helped me as I ordered a little modular piece the other day, reach out to them with the photos why not!
I still have not tried mine through water at all yet, but if you're combusting then your temp settings are too high? You are drawing too long and slow, too much time on the button, don't forget the way you load (grind and pack) then finally it depends what kind of water piece you are using of course...
Corvoed
Farm Grower
Temp settings I set to are 350-370-400 (yes flavor chasers, I get it, you like 310-340-380. I wanna milk a bong), my grind is a finer grind, and I pack it down lightly for the conduction. Using a dhgate mobius matrix. Hits at 370 barely produce any vapor in the chamber, and 400 gives me decent vapor, but only after like 15 seconds, which by the time I'm done with my hit leads to combustion. I am probably holding onto the button for too long I guess, but it's confusing when I don't get any visible vapor for 10 seconds and then it starts to form around 15 seconds in. I feel like there's gotta be something I'm doing wrong, because my dynavap milks the bong way better. At this point I'm considering selling the WPA because I can't get a good hit from it to save my life and I love hitting it natively so much more, but I want to be able to hit it through bong successfully. I also never combust with these settings when using natively
Idk, this device is weird, I love it of course, but it's a weird cross between a hard hitter and a sipper.
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Shit Snacks
Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
Haha I know, I'm a flavor chaser, but I was going to suggest like, instead of 400 try 390? Like that...
I think you should be tamping it down, like you can load the bowl even a quarter full for a fast extraction if you tamp it down, more solid back, fine grind, upper temps in particular... Half full or three quarters full, consistent fine grind is good but yeah more of a solid pack, of course you don't want it to be too too tight, but definitely not loose imo
Oh no wonder, I think matrix are terrible for herbal vapes personally, and especially of vape like the firewood, the air flow is so wide open with too much diffusion (I sold my matrix long ago, so that's a separate personal preference of course)
How fast are you ripping it? At 400 through a matrix, a fast draw should do fine enough, but I don't know that just does not seem so effective for an FW7 at all to me? I do like the low temps, but I like long slow draw, so like I get good extraction even at the low end because it allows for more forgiveness?
Yeah don't hold the button that long, drawing too slow, at that high of a temp... Also remember it retains a lot of heat, so when you let go of the button you want to keep drawing and drawing until the vapor stops... And yes if it is going from cold, it is going to take a little bit for vapor to form at first, even on the higher settings, but then the vapor has built up so you don't want to keep holding the button just because it took a little longer to make the vapor the first time... In fact warming up at 370 makes a lot of sense, reasonably back to back 400 should then be plenty quick, I mean in my experience 370 is, in fact!
Well it's silly to compare it to something that is totally different honestly, for one thing milking the bong is sort of arbitrary, for one thing further the dynavap creates the vapor before you start inhaling... FW7 is more of a hybrid despite the predominant conduction as well, the heating everything about it is just totally different from a vap cap, there's a reason a vap cap can milk a bong, the way it heats the way it works, not to mention your technique is completely different with these two vapes, at least it should be??
Again the matrix is another aspect to this, not every vape, milks the same way, with the same perc, just as different vapes have different technology leading to different signatures and different techniques, same way for the water pieces needed to get the most out of them... For one thing when you are inhaling through a matrix, with an on-demand electronic vape, you actually end up inhaling a lot of the vapor as you are creating it, so it makes it pretty difficult to actually milk up the piece, something like a vap cap as I said is heated before and already has a lot of vapor made for you, once you drop it into the rig... Does that make sense?
Yeah so you need to reconcile your technique using it dry, using it with a water piece, and part of that I think is getting a different glass piece to use with the WPA... Obviously I will praise jayhooks up to the heavens for eternity, I'd highly recommend just grabbing a cheap one from the rogue wax works to try, that could help you adjust your technique between the stock setup and your matrix use, although I do also think a different water piece would be better as well...
Like this little inline, or I have many other DHgate ideas if they are requested lol recently found a lot of good 14 mm male options over there, probably going to end up with one myself soon enough... Also GooRoo glass has a really nice inline perk design, I bet they're small inline would do well with FW7 and honestly the large probably could too? I really need to finally try my FW7 through my inline honeycomb myself to test!
Corvoed
Farm Grower
all fair points. I'll come back to it later in the day and try a new approach and different bong, see how it goes. I just gotta empty my mind of everything that doesn't have to do with fine dining, and vaping
@Corvoed
I think a medium grind works better. Fine particles are easier to ignite. A good tamp should also help with milking (conduction aspect). I also like milking a bong. I usually wait about 8-10 seconds after the ready buzz to start my inhale (medium draw).
Hope this helps.
Edit: I hit it at 380 and 420.
I think a medium grind works better. Fine particles are easier to ignite. A good tamp should also help with milking (conduction aspect). I also like milking a bong. I usually wait about 8-10 seconds after the ready buzz to start my inhale (medium draw).
Hope this helps.
Edit: I hit it at 380 and 420.
GraniteState420
Well-Known Member
Same here! Got delivered this morning......1 day shipping from Mass to NH, thank God...my VAS couldn't take days of checking the tracking number every 7 minutes ..I was lucky enough to get a firewood 7 on tonight’s drop. I’ve been a lucky guy lately. I was able to get a tetra p80 a couple weeks ago and now the firewood.. now my artisan wood portable vape collection is complete…. For now
cloudrunner79
Well-Known Member
Oh I’m so jealous. Let us know how you like it. Mine will be here on Saturday to NY
Mine either shows up tomorrow, or more likely MondayOh I’m so jealous. Let us know how you like it. Mine will be here on Saturday to NY
Vaporware
Well-Known Member
@Shit Snacks had a lot of good advice despite not having used the WPA through water yet. In case it helps, here’s how I’m doing it.
Fine grind up to the air holes around the top of the bowl and then packed down lightly. I do about the same with a j-hook or double matrix (the ones NewVape sold a couple of years ago. So here it is;
1. Hold the button until it vibrates to tell me it’s up to the set temp. Holding a bit longer will get you more density, especially on the first hit from cold.
2. I start drawing at medium speed and often ramp up the speed.
3. If I’m only taking one draw, I let go of the button a few seconds before I run out of breath.
4. For one draw I continue past the cool down vibration to help cool it down, lift the Firewood and clear the piece.
If I’m taking another draw I’ll draw a bit longer and just let the vapor sit for a few seconds until I can draw again. The second draw is usually larger.
If you’re still not getting enough power remember you can press the button 5 times and hold on the last press to bypass the temp settings and just keep pumping out more heat until you cool it down by drawing fast enough or letting go of the button.
If you’re already combusting though, I think the main ways to avoid it are to draw earlier and faster (you don’t even have to wait for the at-temp vibration) and be careful how long you hold the button. If you need to hold it for a long time and a faster draw doesn’t prevent combustion, try a lower temp.
Temp settings don’t work the same on the FW7 as you might expect, and as you can see you can reach combustion temps in the bowl even if the temp is set below 400 if you hold the button through a long slow draw, so turning it down should still get you solid results with a lot less risk of combustion.
I use the stock settings and I’ve managed to get a little charring around the edges but I’ve never combusted, but if I slowed down my draw and held the button longer I’m sure I could make it happen.
Fine grind up to the air holes around the top of the bowl and then packed down lightly. I do about the same with a j-hook or double matrix (the ones NewVape sold a couple of years ago. So here it is;
1. Hold the button until it vibrates to tell me it’s up to the set temp. Holding a bit longer will get you more density, especially on the first hit from cold.
2. I start drawing at medium speed and often ramp up the speed.
3. If I’m only taking one draw, I let go of the button a few seconds before I run out of breath.
4. For one draw I continue past the cool down vibration to help cool it down, lift the Firewood and clear the piece.
If I’m taking another draw I’ll draw a bit longer and just let the vapor sit for a few seconds until I can draw again. The second draw is usually larger.
If you’re still not getting enough power remember you can press the button 5 times and hold on the last press to bypass the temp settings and just keep pumping out more heat until you cool it down by drawing fast enough or letting go of the button.
If you’re already combusting though, I think the main ways to avoid it are to draw earlier and faster (you don’t even have to wait for the at-temp vibration) and be careful how long you hold the button. If you need to hold it for a long time and a faster draw doesn’t prevent combustion, try a lower temp.
Temp settings don’t work the same on the FW7 as you might expect, and as you can see you can reach combustion temps in the bowl even if the temp is set below 400 if you hold the button through a long slow draw, so turning it down should still get you solid results with a lot less risk of combustion.
I use the stock settings and I’ve managed to get a little charring around the edges but I’ve never combusted, but if I slowed down my draw and held the button longer I’m sure I could make it happen.
Received today, and had my 2 first bowls, and wow! What a great device! Hits really hard and smooth, with huge clouds and nice even ABV. Both bowls I finished in a single large hit. No learning curve at all 
Only regret is I wish I had ordered an extra "Glass Adapter Tube" as I for some reason thought there was a spare.
If anyone is ordering some parts, or a new FW7 from the US, please order me an extra glass adapter tube (actually maybe 2 and an extra dimpled tube) and I'll pay you for it and shipping (it's a pain to do the TransferWise option as credit cards are only accepted for US orders)
2 extra adapter tubes, + a dimpled tube should be $36 USD + shipping (so maybe $50)
As well, I was wondering how you guys separate the dimpled tube from the glass adapter tube ... they seem REALLY stuck together and I wouldn't want to break my 1 and only little adapter tube ....
Only regret is I wish I had ordered an extra "Glass Adapter Tube" as I for some reason thought there was a spare.
If anyone is ordering some parts, or a new FW7 from the US, please order me an extra glass adapter tube (actually maybe 2 and an extra dimpled tube) and I'll pay you for it and shipping (it's a pain to do the TransferWise option as credit cards are only accepted for US orders)
2 extra adapter tubes, + a dimpled tube should be $36 USD + shipping (so maybe $50)
As well, I was wondering how you guys separate the dimpled tube from the glass adapter tube ... they seem REALLY stuck together and I wouldn't want to break my 1 and only little adapter tube ....
cloudrunner79
Well-Known Member
Oh…. Now you’re not helping me be patient either…. Lol. Guess I’ll have to take some hits off my TM and stalk the tracking for mine, still on track to be delivered tomorrowReceived today, and had my 2 first bowls, and wow! What a great device! Hits really hard and smooth, with huge clouds and nice even ABV. Both bowls I finished in a single large hit. No learning curve at all
Only regret is I wish I had ordered an extra "Glass Adapter Tube" as I for some reason thought there was a spare.
If anyone is ordering some parts, or a new FW7 from the US, please order me an extra glass adapter tube (actually maybe 2 and an extra dimpled tube) and I'll pay you for it and shipping (it's a pain to do the TransferWise option as credit cards are only accepted for US orders)
2 extra adapter tubes, + a dimpled tube should be $36 USD + shipping (so maybe $50)
As well, I was wondering how you guys separate the dimpled tube from the glass adapter tube ... they seem REALLY stuck together and I wouldn't want to break my 1 and only little adapter tube ....
cx714
Unregulated Tendencies
Check your box— mine shipped with an extra adapter. I think it comes standard so you could always email Marc if it’s missing.
The adapter is friction fit in the stem by a red o-ring sandwiched between 2 small sections of silicone tubing. Twist it out slowly and it should all pop out in one piece.
I took the silicone/o-ring off to give the glass bit an iso bath. It’s a clever low tech solution that I think is part of the FW’s charm. Btw I think the stem is a basic Hula stem, so it might be available retail where you are.
Good luck with it.
Ha. Just saw you’re in Canada!
Sneaky Pete carries the Hula. Your familiarity with shipping/exchange rates made me think you were in Europe!
(Sorry for the double post. Forgot the rule.)
Mine has extra o-rings and the silicone piece, but no extra glass adapter tube.
I have an extra hula stem (as I ordered an extra), but the little glass stem I’m more concerned about breaking.
BeeSawd
Well-Known Member
Same. Loving the firewood 7 so far!
cx714
Unregulated Tendencies
Oops. I double-checked and only have a long piece of silicone. Sorry about that!
Shit Snacks
Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
PSA:
The OGB, Original Grinder Buddy
Introducing the Original Grinder Buddy (OGB) Made from Filaments.ca TRUE Food Safe PLA, and designed to fit in a medium to large grinder, this mini scoop/tamp has been my constant companion for the last few months. Designed to fit most popular ovens, it can scoop up to .15 grams and fills most...
www.theroguewaxworks.com
Interesting. Tho I'd still likely pay the extra $10 for the awesome wood handled scoop and tamp tool. Only downside to that one is that it is magnetic, so sometimes I'll get attached to my D-Capper or magnetic parts of my grinder.PSA:
The OGB, Original Grinder Buddy
Introducing the Original Grinder Buddy (OGB) Made from Filaments.ca TRUE Food Safe PLA, and designed to fit in a medium to large grinder, this mini scoop/tamp has been my constant companion for the last few months. Designed to fit most popular ovens, it can scoop up to .15 grams and fills most...www.theroguewaxworks.com
Shit Snacks
Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
Exactly, I've been beta testing this, and I can't tell you how nice it is to not have the scooper get stuck on the BCG magnet all the time! It is a perfect size, very useful, worth the price, I think it is under $10 shipped...
Scoop vid from reddit.
Edit: I have the wooden scoop and tamp, but I'll be ordering this one soon. Wood tamp is stunning, and very useful, but the OGB looks easier to just toss in a bag for on the go use. So for the new Fw7 owners, might as well get both to save on shipping.
Edit: I have the wooden scoop and tamp, but I'll be ordering this one soon. Wood tamp is stunning, and very useful, but the OGB looks easier to just toss in a bag for on the go use. So for the new Fw7 owners, might as well get both to save on shipping.
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