I have offered on one of these. 100 Dollars. However, the guy wants 105 dollars for shipping and handling (shipping to Netherlands, Europe). It seems mad considering I have never had to pay more than +- 30$ for any item shipped from anywhere. So my question here is, do you guys think 105 dollars is a reasonable price for shipping and handling? Or am I the only one who thinks it's a lot! I know I probably shouldn't complain as it is still cheap, but voice your opinions anyway!
Thanks
Yupp go to fed ex and get a quote. I did for fun a 2 or 3 lb package from me to Amsterdam had $116 as the cheapest shipping option.I have offered on one of these. 100 Dollars. However, the guy wants 105 dollars for shipping and handling (shipping to Netherlands, Europe). It seems mad considering I have never had to pay more than +- 30$ for any item shipped from anywhere. So my question here is, do you guys think 105 dollars is a reasonable price for shipping and handling? Or am I the only one who thinks it's a lot! I know I probably shouldn't complain as it is still cheap, but voice your opinions anyway!
Thanks
*edit:* does anyone know if it is possible to cancel it after my offer has been accepted or do I have to stick with it, for now?(first ebay purchase lol)
Have you read my posts in this thread, specifically about what you're saying....?So the wires to the glass tube are what would fail on the cloud+?
Does anyone know if they fail because of the higher temp some people use vs the idea of them failing from heat cycling?
I know my buddy has a failed cloud+ and he used to crank it to max temp to hit it all the time. That was his regular spot on the dial. I never took my cloud ticker past 3:00 on the dial EVER and that was really dark.
Perhaps it'll last longer if you don't max the temp, but on the other hand perhaps he had to max the temp BECAUSE something was wrong with the cloud+.
I have mine on the way, but I've always been skeptical of the non-tickers. I really hope it lasts a while. I'm hoping that once the evo shows up the cloud+ will be used for taking to friend's houses and stuff like that not a daily driver. Perhaps it'll be a non-issue then. To be honest once I get the evo I'll probably end up selling the cloud+ or trading it for bud to a grower without a vape.
So the wires to the glass tube are what would fail on the cloud+?
Sounds like a plausible weak link, and if that connection fails, the heater burns out as well. I think that the best course of action is to either cross your fingers and hope for longevity or to reinforce the connections before they go. I've been looking into conductive, high temperature epoxies to reinforce the connection. Unfortunately it seems like the Cloud+ can exceed the temperatures this kind epoxy is rated for.
The solution may not be an epoxy, and it may not need to be conductive either, I'm just shooting in the dark as a jumping off point. I remember reading that people damaged their heaters by soldering the connections, so that is off the table.
It would be great to find out how they were connected in the first place as a good starting point. Do we know that yet?
100% Speculation:
I think those leads may have been attached before any fragile or heat sensitive elements came into play.
If you're juggling three VXL threads plus whatever else floats your FC boat, in addition to life, I totally get it Sorry if my post came across brash!Thanks for the info. I have read the thread completely I'm just all messed up lately. Too much to process in my brain at once sorry.
If you're juggling three VXL threads plus whatever else floats your FC boat, in addition to life, I totally get it Sorry if my post came across brash!
I'll be your OF here on the VXL side of things...not that I can live up to his level of knowledge dropping posts!No it didn't seem brash, I just wanted you to know I did read it all. I'm very upfront when I'm being lazy. Usually OF is my go to lazy guy, because my lazy questions tend to be about electronics or batteries. He is always nice enough to put up with my shit haha.
It would be great to find out how they were connected in the first place as a good starting point. Do we know that yet?
EDIT: sorry for the double post. I'd edit them together myself, but then I have no option to delete the 2nd post...that I know of
There are some real close up pictures linked recently in the Cloud thread...
So, its basically a wire soldered to a contact pad. No hole, just "attached".
My thoughts are to take the entire glass/ceramic assembly and slowly bring it up to temp in a kiln. Then attempt to silver solder the spot. This way, no concentrated high heat spot. It was posted the temp was too high and cracked the ceramic heater when they tried to solder it back on.
Have you read my posts in this thread, specifically about what you're saying....?
The point is, we don't know exactly what is causing them to fail like this, but we know potential likely causes...but they conflict, so it's hard to decide the best preventative maintenance.
Some believe staying at high temps and keeping the unit on, will help prolong life; because it's believed that the repeated stress of heating and cooling is the cause of the issue.
Some believe staying at low temps and not venturing above 12/1/2 is the way to prolong life; because they believe that high temps are causing the issue.
Some believe that any temp is okay, and that just not leaving the unit on for extended periods of time (especially at high temp); because they believe that it's not the heat of high temps, but the heat saturating through the entire unit by being on for long times, that causes the issue.
All of the above are valid potential causes of the issue, and potential work arounds...however the conflicting nature makes it difficult to actually pick one of the methodologies and stick with it.
The safest route of all, would be, use lower temps when possible, but regardless of temp (low or max) don't leave it on longer than needed. It stands to reason that if heat is the cause of the issues, just staying in the low temps wont be a end-all answer, as even at low temps, the inner parts of the unit eventually get warmer and warmer, to an extent, as the heat equalizes through the whole unit and it stabilizes. Also, by the same reasoning, going to high temps alone, shouldn't be a problem either, as the high temps won't be a detrimental issue if you don't let the whole unit soak in the heat for forever.
With these units being efficient, as far as heating up reasonably quick, I'd say we are probably just as safe on any temp, as long as we make sure to only let it get up to temp, and use it as needed before shutting it back off. If this style of usage (turn on as needed, off after) doesn't fit into your lifestyle (medical or otherwise) than your second best bet, IMO, would be to leave the unit on at a lower temp, and only raise temp as needed, when needed, also keeping the unit off when not needed.
The idea being, avoid higher temps and long times...but, keeping in mind that expansion / contraction from heat/cooling cycles is playing a part in this, it is still a gamble as to what practices will yield the best longevity...
There are some real close up pictures linked recently in the Cloud thread...
So, its basically a wire soldered to a contact pad of the ceramic heater. No hole, just "attached".
My thoughts are to take the entire glass/ceramic assembly and slowly bring it up to temp in a kiln. Then attempt to silver solder the spot. This way, no concentrated high heat spot. It was posted the temp was too high and cracked the ceramic heater when they tried to solder it back on.