EVOLV Cricket

[DJ Colonel Corn]

supposed to arrive Thursday

Has it arrived ?

 

[RustyOldNail]

Has it arrived ?

Yes, received it yesterday. Putting through usage tests. So far, it delivers everything in the reviews. Like any new device, I like to learn how it needs to be operated. Many try to use a new device like they did with past ones. You must let the device dictate to you, how to operate it successfully.

While I haven’t tried to choke it yet, I did start a lot even larger than needed at first, as the heater TUB, is even smaller then it appears in photos. Low temperatures give flavorful results, and I’m progressively going higher temps. With the proper small load, and right temp, you can get a one hitter. Starting lower with a slightly larger load, temp step up, get two good hits and a 3rd cleanup. Like the DT crucible heaters, you really have to be aware of a SLOW draw. Cleanup is easy, but you have to keep up with it, just like the other oil rigs, something I don’t mind when the design makes it EASY. No problem with QTip fibers, I’ll assume some let the TUB cool off too long before swabbing? With the cap off, I just use my 160f preset heat up the tub for a few seconds while Qtipping. 190 proof ethanol is then used on final QTip wipe, no aftertaste on next session. If you are planning on pushing globs of wax in lots of sessions without basic cleaning of the inner cap, then pass on this one.

I have a few technical questions I’m planning for Evolv and will report back.

At the current price point it will not be for everyone. But if you can afford it, it’s built like a heavy tiny brick, imagine a small iPhone make out of one block of SS. I like the simplicity of the SIMPLE display and limited selections, unlike the necessary but complicated themes on my DNA75C mods. And while many may not have heard of Evolv, it’s a small US company that’s been around awhile known mostly for their #1 DNA temperature control electronic boards found in many mods, so I had no hesitation in buying an actual vaporizer from them. I think they delivered, the design and manufacturing is top shelf.

ADDED: Just took it off the charger, ran the battery down until the screen said “CHECK BATTERY”, after full charge the Cricket took 935mAh, I’ve seen one article quote it was an 850mAh battery, so a bit over is good as it’s new. I don’t remember the voltage cutoff I saw when I connected it to the computer running the Escribe program, 3.5v but you can look, though I left everything at the defaults.

 

[DJ Colonel Corn]

Yes, received it yesterday. Putting through usage tests. So far, it delivers everything in the reviews. Like any new device, I like to learn how it needs to be operated

Awesome !
Yes, dink around with the settings until you're happy.

I've got my cap-off melt temp at 220 now, and the hitting temp at 530.
Everyone wants a diff result from their dabs, though.

It's defintely a maximum of 2 hits per sesh, that's correct for sure.

With my uber-potent dabs though, that's more than enuff. Two sessions and I'm pretty baked !

Yeah, keep it to about a BB size and u wont have problems, and always pre-melt the dabs yep.

I'm glad you like it, @RustyOldNail ! I am having oodles of joy with it myself !

The battery cut-off is 3.35 I think I remember, and charges up to 4.15 on its default settings.

I left the wattages alone, which also can be manipulated thru Escribe, Evolv's software.

Sigh all this product testing leaves me super baked !

Oh and P.S.: You can leave it plugged in while you use it, and it will take a quick charge charger just fine !

 

[RustyOldNail]

Everyone wants a diff result from their dabs, though.

Indeed, that’s why I didn’t add my temps, everyone that uses this device will have to do their own tests:
DAB SIZE - TEMPERATURE- DRAW STRENGTH
In a TUB this small, tinyyyy changes make BIG DIFFERENCES!

keep it to about a BB size and u wont have problems, and always pre-melt the dabs

Yeah, I forgot to add, while I didn’t buy for its extreme portability factor, being able to preheat the load/dab is such a plus. In a few seconds you can put the Cricket down “flat”, with no leak. I tested this with a wax and a shatter, and with the screen face up, I also tilted the rear end up at an angle to make it more extreme, and NO oil movement. Of course test your own concentrates, as they vary depending on process, in consistency when cold, room temperature, and heated, before tossing upside down in your shorts!

Oh and P.S.: You can leave it plugged in while you use it, and it will take a quick charge charger just fine !

I was curious if it had TRUE pass-through vaping. That’s something they should add to their advertising, as many seem to appreciate that feature, though I buy my electronic devices for their wireless, battery feature….

ADDED: I have seen the “cap on” “cap off” display when their condition is opposite, the magnets are somehow being used in this communication. Sometimes it’s correctable with one on/off of the cap, though occasionally it persists a few times, but it always recovers. One time however, I was going back and forth with the cap, thought I was good and started a cap off warm up, but the device was actually in temperature mode, at the time 530f, I immediately saw the quick bubble up of oil, and let off the power button, session was saved. I doubt this is a fixable issue, but one I can live with.

 

[DJ Colonel Corn]

ADDED: I have seen the “cap on” “cap off” display when their condition is opposite

Yes, and, I believe one of the reviewers, ether Tom or Jerry, mentioned this.
I also, occasionally , get the warm up and actual vaping confused on it.

In a few seconds you can put the Cricket down “flat”, with no leak

True ! It's very handy that it cools off so dang fast.
I do use this portably, so thats a real nice feature.
They got the titanium just the right thickness for the job.
It's probably why people might get their cotton swab caught, bcuz, they're used to the V5.

n a TUB this small, tinyyyy changes make BIG DIFFERENCES!

Indeed !
I should add a picture on my review that shows the actual size of the trough.
With the picture I used, people were asking about the welds !I
I can't even barely SEE the welds in real life.
That's the Macro camera for ya.
After seeing pics online, I also was surprised at how small it really is.
Hits me like a train tho !
Glad u like it.

I was curious if it had TRUE pass-through vaping.

Welll....
(Forgot to add on last post but..)
I'm not sure you could call it TRUE pass-thru bcuz
it won't function on a dead battery plugged in.
There needs to be a lil oomph to supply 50 watts !
However, yes, you can leave it plugged in during use !

 

[RustyOldNail]

EVOLV CRICKET BURN-OFF TIP:

Not sure where I saw or read about someone had removed the TUB, to show some resin on the underside.
Not sure how this person was loading his TUB, but even for someone like me using tiny amounts, it doesn’t matter.
VAPOR migrates to most places that aren’t airtight sealed. I was doing some temperature tests with a tiny bead sensor and a DMM. Since the probe tip is still too large to fit through the top metal of MP stem, I resorted to testing CAP OFF temps.
The included, short paper manual says “Cap Off Temperature” is 150-250f, mine came with a highest setting of 600f, the max temperature of the device in either mode. I believe this MAX temperature limit can be adjusted using the Escribe software, but I haven’t played with it yet.

I was happy to be able to go to the highest temperature of the device with the CAP OFF, since I can’t physically test the CAP ON temperatures. With the CAP OFF, temperature at MAX 600f, (had to reclick the “ON” button several times as the device times out in approximately 25 seconds (possibly software adjustable too). I’ll be advising Evolv to add some kind of screen notification when the device TIMES OUT, as I could only tell by watching the LED display while pressing power ON button, and seeing a slight quick DIMMING of the brightness, and I could see the temperature stop raising on my DMM.

Anyways, getting to the title of this post, as I was heating the TUB for my temperature testing, at 600f, I started to see some light vapor coming off the side of the TUB, and it dissipated quickly. Since I had done a real good QTip cleaning using my 190 Ethanol, I wondered where this came from, well I assume that over time, faster if you load big, resin vapor gets underneath the tub, and I remembered that I had seen that posted somewhere before.

So, I’ll leave my CAP OFF “high” to the 600f maximum, and do some “underside tub” burn off cleans occasionally, even though my tubs inside surface is always clean.

 

[AlphaDeltaF1]

ADDED: I have seen the “cap on” “cap off” display when their condition is opposite, the magnets are somehow being used in this communication. Sometimes it’s correctable with one on/off of the cap, though occasionally it persists a few times, but it always recovers. One time however, I was going back and forth with the cap, thought I was good and started a cap off warm up, but the device was actually in temperature mode, at the time 530f, I immediately saw the quick bubble up of oil, and let off the power button, session was saved. I doubt this is a fixable issue, but one I can live with.

EVOLV CRICKET BURN-OFF TIP:

Not sure where I saw or read about someone had removed the TUB, to show some resin on the underside.
Not sure how this person was loading his TUB, but even for someone like me using tiny amounts, it doesn’t matter.
VAPOR migrates to most places that aren’t airtight sealed. I was doing some temperature tests with a tiny bead sensor and a DMM. Since the probe tip is still too large to fit through the top metal of MP stem, I resorted to testing CAP OFF temps.
The included, short paper manual says “Cap Off Temperature” is 150-250f, mine came with a highest setting of 600f, the max temperature of the device in either mode. I believe this MAX temperature limit can be adjusted using the Escribe software, but I haven’t played with it yet.

I was happy to be able to go to the highest temperature of the device with the CAP OFF, since I can’t physically test the CAP ON temperatures. With the CAP OFF, temperature at MAX 600f, (had to reclick the “ON” button several times as the device times out in approximately 25 seconds (possibly software adjustable too). I’ll be advising Evolv to add some kind of screen notification when the device TIMES OUT, as I could only tell by watching the LED display while pressing power ON button, and seeing a slight quick DIMMING of the brightness, and I could see the temperature stop raising on my DMM.

Anyways, getting to the title of this post, as I was heating the TUB for my temperature testing, at 600f, I started to see some light vapor coming off the side of the TUB, and it dissipated quickly. Since I had done a real good QTip cleaning using my 190 Ethanol, I wondered where this came from, well I assume that over time, faster if you load big, resin vapor gets underneath the tub, and I remembered that I had seen that posted somewhere before.

So, I’ll leave my CAP OFF “high” to the 600f maximum, and do some “underside tub” burn off cleans occasionally, even though my tubs inside surface is always clean.

Hey cool to hear you’re doing testing!

If I recall correctly, while the cap off temp may be set to 600F the default settings have it at 30w while in the cap off state but can be adjusted to the max of 60w in escribe.

Cap on state uses 60w for reference.

Also, even with a clean swabbed tub, it’s possible to have wax that wicked up into and up the seams of the of both U shaped walls, in fact the slight clicking noise it makes is the wax wicking/popping from the corners of the tub like little chimney stacks. This is a very small amount of oil, but worth noting.

 

[RustyOldNail]

Also, even with a clean swabbed tub, it’s possible to have wax that wicked up into and up the seams of the of both U shaped walls

Anything is possible, but when I do a full TUB cleaning with 190 Ethanol, I also use a low CAP OFF temperature, and get the tub warm. Not much, even in those micro tub seams, when I’m done cleaning.
I’ll double confirm this after a bunch of sessions, I’ll try the 600f TUB BURN OFF, and see if any vapor rises …..

FWIW:
I’m also going to request to Evolv, that they either include the top silicone gasket with the “replacement tub kit”, or at least sell as an individual part. If you agree, simply write the good CS staff, email address is on their website.

 

[DJ Colonel Corn]

Cap on state uses 60w for reference.

Huh, when I plugged mine into Escribe it shows 50 watts.

can be adjusted to the max of 60w in escribe.

Correct !
That would be where I'd set my burn off temp.

Interesting to know.

I’m also going to request to Evolv, that they either include the top silicone gasket with the “replacement tub kit”, or at least sell as an individual part. If you agree, simply write the good CS staff, email address is on their website.

Good idea.
I just received my replacement glass pathway and tub.
The tub comes with 2 screws, allen key, and tub.
The vapor pathway out of glass comes with the gasket for the glass.
So it does seem odd that they didn't include a new gasket for the trough.
I'm calling it a trough instead a tub, don't mind me please.

All good information.
Yeah, wherever the vapor goes, it will eventually create residue.
One thing u could try, if a burn-off doesnt work, is, I guess, removing the tub and cleaning it out, also all around in there.

I highly suggest you plug her into your 'puter and dial up your cap-off power to 60 watts with Escribe.

The dimming of the screen IS the notification that you've run out of time.

I will test also for burn off vapor coming from the bucket/trough/tub titanium !

P.S. Edit:
I don't think you wanna get this device super super hot near the display like it gets with burn-off cycles.
When it gets really warm to the touch, I'd recommend letting it cool down a bit between heatings.

 

[BabyFacedFinster]

Is there any chance of opening it up and replacing the battery when that time comes?

 

[DJ Colonel Corn]

eplacing the battery

I imagine that would be done by Evolv.
Normally they have a 1 year warranty on their boards/chips.
So if the battery dies within a year, I'm assuming they'd replace it for free.
After that, they may charge you a fee for the replacement of battery.
It's soldered in there, and so is the fuse I assume, like with their DNA boards for mods.
Not impossible to change a fuse yourself on the DNA chip, IF you can get into the mod, but, tricky as heck.

NOTE: This is all assumption, I haven't asked them directly about replacing the battery on the Cricket.
However, I DO have experience with them servicing a DNA board for me, they did it insanely fast and didnt charge me.

 

[RustyOldNail]

One thing u could try, if a burn-off doesnt work, is, I guess, removing the tub and cleaning it out, also all around in there.

Just did that, cleaned as best I could using 190 Ethanol, but I’ve found baked on resin vapor resists that as well as any type of ISO. Next time I’ll try Dark Crystal Clear.

The dimming of the screen IS the notification that you've run out of time.

Yeah, they can do better, it’s barely noticeable, even if you concentrate looking directly at the LCD screen, a TIME OUT warning should be added, for both Cap ON & OFF modes.

I will test also for burn off vapor coming from the bucket/trough/tub titanium !

I haven’t overloaded, and have used it sparingly while testing, that’s why I was surprised that a lot of “wispy” vapor was seen when I ran it CAP OFF at 600f. After cleaning underneath the tub, I reinstalled the tub, still some slight vapor. I should have removed the top silicone gasket, as it can hold some resin vapor underneath it. NONE of this is bad, I’m just testing the device to the limits. Between regular cleaning, now and then high temperature burn offs, cleaning under the tub would just be a seldom needed task.

If you want to test this, make sure you have a STRONG BACKLIGHT, like an LED flashlight. Hard to see the wispy vapor I’m seeing in normal room light, again it’s not really an issue, but something I noticed quickly, and want to pass on, as this device is so new.

I don't think you wanna get this device super super hot near the display like it gets with burn-off cycles.
When it gets really warm to the touch, I'd recommend letting it cool down a bit between heatings.

Yes, run 15 seconds then, wait a bit, run again, let cool longer, then if needed run a 3rd time. The top of device will get warm, but they designed it to fire at 600f, though I don’t personally go that high when vaping. Must test the limits, keep everyone honest.

 

[DJ Colonel Corn]

Must test the limits

Indeed !
All in the name of science !
You folks don't know the terrible stoniness we must endure from all this testing, perhaps.
It's brtual !
No just kidding I am very forutnate to have good xtracts and good vaping options.

Just a thought, @RustyOldNail , but ,are the wisps possibly coming from the top by the bolts ?
I dry fire on 600 for a while seeing vapor until i realized it was coming from the grooves in where the bucket screws down (trough, cup, tub).
So there is that.

I'm all in favor of full testing however !

When you say isopropyl won't get the residue off, tho, I think you're missing 2 things.

One, use 99% IPA (people use IPA not ISO in the science world).
Two, HEAT UP your IPA to boiling temps.
What , IPA is highly flammable ? Why yes it is !
Which is why I use a water pitcher heater, u know, for boiling water electrically.
An electric stove would also work.
For those with only microwaves, this is possible also, but keep you EYE on it, it'l start boiling around 20-30 seconds, When it DOES, REMOVE the iso from the oven.
The water boiler trick works better because you don't have to worry about blowing up your oven !

I am a FIRM believer in HOT IPA now, it makes a 20 hour soak job into 1-2 minutes.

Try it and see the results !

 

[staircase slight of hand]

One, use 99% IPA (people use IPA not ISO in the science world).

They’re both just isopropyl, no? IsoPropyl Alcohol vs ISOpropyl alcohol?

 

[DJ Colonel Corn]

They’re both just isopropyl, no? IsoPropyl Alcohol vs ISOpropyl alcohol?

Yes, they are.
A good thing to know is... 95% IPA is 5% water.
So getting 99.99% is pretty crucial for cleaning concentrate off of things.
That is .01% water, so... it does a much better job

 

[RustyOldNail]

I use 99% ISO for certain tasks, prefer 190 Ethanol for any device parts that carry taste.

 

[DJ Colonel Corn]

prefer 190 Ethanol for any device parts that carry taste.

Hm.
I dunno how u get taste left over from using 99% and burning it off, even.
OK though, if 190 ethanol cleans stuff good enough for you, fair enough.
It sounds like it can't clean the crud off the bottom of your bucket, though.
I would imagine ethanol would leave a taste more than IPA bcuz of what it's made out of eh ?
Interesting....

 

[RustyOldNail]

Hm.
I dunno how u get taste left over from using 99% and burning it off, even.
OK though, if 190 ethanol cleans stuff good enough for you, fair enough.
It sounds like it can't clean the crud off the bottom of your bucket, though.
I would imagine ethanol would leave a taste more than IPA bcuz of what it's made out of eh ?
Interesting....

As I’ve mentioned, I use a large variety of cleaning products, including safety and personal usage in my research.
I use 190 Ethanol as it is food safe, you can buy the identical formula in a liquor store called 190 EverClear.
I use it on things I vape from, like a finish wipe on a cold, clean 30mm Sapphire Dish, but I use Simple Green Crystal to actually remove the baked on resin in an overnight soak.

When I clean any DV tips and stems, that touch my lips, tongue, TASTE, I use Ethanol.
Since ISO is cheaper, I buy 99% ISO by the gallon, as there is just less water in it. I use that on things that won’t impart any taste, or as you say some kind of burn off. When cleaning my Cricket TUB, since I’m using QTips and a tiny amount of Ethanol, even though the TUB is warm, I see no reason to switch back and forth to ISO. And yes, 190 proof Ethanol cleans as well as 99% ISO on similar surfaces, and evaporates just as fast, and no foul aftertaste on surfaces.

I use a Menda Pump container for the QTips. If interested, I can post a link to the “proper” one for 190 Ethanol storage.

Folks can decide for themselves whatever they feel comfortable using as a solvent, I’ve done my own personal research and am satisfied.

Geez some actually do alcohol tincture extractions using cheap ISO…….

 

[DJ Colonel Corn]

Geez some actually do alcohol tincture extractions using cheap ISO…….

Yes they do !
I've tried some, horrible stuff.

Well try your ethonal and IPA hot, they work 900% better when hot.

You won't believe it. What used to be an overnight soak is done in a few minutes.

I am about to take the tub off to check the underside, I do know I over-loaded the Cricket on my first couple of loads.

I'll be sure to mention to Evolv about those gaskets too.

Cheers !

 

[RustyOldNail]

I am about to take the tub off to check the underside

Lets us know. Mine was pretty clean, as I was trying to chase the source of the wispy vapor trails on my test Open Cap burn offs.

 

[Pukka]

I use a Menda Pump container for the QTips. If interested, I can post a link to the “proper” one for 190 Ethanol storage.

Yes, please!

I'm pretty much an ISO for glass & metal and Dr Bonner's for everything else fan (don't forget 150°F+ water to rinse). I really perfer Everclear 190 (or whatever we get in NM) but lordy, I can't stand the 50usd + a fifth is too hard to justify to Wife when ISO costs 1/20. I just use it for extracts.

 

[RustyOldNail]

Menda makes chemical bottles for medical industry, you see them all the time in doctors offices and hospitals everywhere.
Their plastic bottles use a variety of solvent resistant plastics, though GLASS is the obvious choice, as well as a Stainless Steel PUMP.
But, what can be overlooked, is the material of the pumps FEED STEM, as this “straw” sits in the liquid all the time. Their more expensive bottles use a material called “PFA”, for the STEM, supposedly the best in chemical resistance of all the types. The model below has the PFA stem, I use with QTips & 190 ETHANOL. Having knocked the bottle over a few times, I now appreciate the outer rubber type coating too.

MENDA 35741 - Pure-Touch Impact Resistant Amber Glass Bottle with PFA Stem, 4 oz

MENDA - 35741 Pure-Touch Impact Resistant Amber Glass Bottle w/ PFA Stem, 4 oz

The 4 oz Pure-Touch Amber Glass Bottles are safety-coated in plastisol, providing improved handling, filling and transporting of liquids and chemicals.

menda.descoindustries.com

*Pasted from “Features Tab”:

Glass bottles are safety-coated in plastisol, providing improved handling, filling and transporting of liquids and chemicals
Safety-coating provides increased resistance to impact/fall damage and provides improved slip-resistant grip (compared with uncoated bottles)
Coating improves containment of bottle contents and damaged glass if the bottle is dropped and/or damaged - reduces risk of injury and allows time for proper cleaning and disposal
Translucent amber glass protects light sensitive liquids and allows for easy viewing of contents
Stores fluids that are not compatible with plastic bottles

Pure-Touch Pump:

Patented purity protector stops fluid from reentering the bottle
Patented one handed operation frees operator’s hands
Precision machined valves for smooth consistent operation
No silicone or latex - perfect for ultra clean environments
Dispenses approximately 0.2cc of liquid with each pump
Cam-lock hinge keeps lid open and closed, reduces odors


Safety Coating Material: Plastisol
Stem Material: PFA
Bottle Material: Amber Glass
Bottle Size: 4 oz (120 mL)
Pump Material: Stainless-Steel
Neck Size / Thread: 38-400

 

[Haywood]

Menda makes chemical bottles for medical industry

And they're only $25 and change. I just dip a fresh Q-Tip in the 99% iso/ipa bottle... Where I live 90% Ethanol is only $20 a bottle and I use that for soaking my glass parts.

I've been following this thread with great delight. I'm pretty happy with my Lightning Pen when I'm on the road, but the Cricket does have me interested. Evolv has a long and wonderful history. They are probably the most honorable and scientifically based company making this kind of stuff. They have always been on the forefront of design and execution. Phil Busardo did a couple of interviews with them over the years which are available on YouTube if you search, They made the first real portable vape device. It was an e-cig called the Darwin. It was small and smart. The OG of vapes. I believe they offered battery replacements though I don't recall if they were free.
Here's a picture of the Darwin:

The Cricket reminded me of the original Magic Flight Launch Tube, which was the pre-cursor to the Magic Flight Launch Box. It had a stainless steel mesh trough to hold your leaf and no electronics whatsoever. You had a AA sized battery in a copper tube that you rotated until it touched the terminal attached to the mesh and Bob was your uncle. Didn't work great though. The Launch Box worked better. I still have four prototypes in a box here (along with a few Launch Box prototypes as well). There are still a number of retired threads here about the both of them. This is the Launch Tube:

Here's a link to one of the messages in a Launch Tube thread that has more pictures. How it was done in the good old days.

Question: Can you remove the Cricket titanium trough and clean it with a torch?

 

[RustyOldNail]

And they're only $25 and change.

Can’t speak for others finances and budgets, but a member “asked”. I’ve learned there is a big swing on FC, for what people value, even when considering health and safety risks. For Qtipping convenience, nothing beats a proper pump bottle….. enjoy.

 

[Haywood]

I should have put a smiley there. Don't ask how much I paid for a set of made in the usa medical titanium butterfly clamps to hold a joint...