Dreamwood Glow

[MrKappus]

ok thanks for letting me know! ill contact the maker now.

I've only been using it for a short while, and never go above 42w for 10-15 seconds.

Heres a photo of the mod right after i took my finger off the fire button.

 

[yogurtsauce]

My char is much worse, you can see it on the outside of the wood. On the inside it looks all carbonized and crackly. I think you'll be fine, because yours is waaaaaaaaaaaaaay lighter than mine.

 

[KeroZen]

If you guys were using TC mode in the first place that wouldn't happen. Also 40W on such tiny coils? That's what people are running their Splinters with ultra beefy mesh heaters at! You should get this thing rolling with much less Watts since there is much less heater mass.

Your problem is more likely your draw technique if you need that much to get good hits. Or you trigger pulsing technique. Or both. You need to improve your kung fu!

 

[GoldenBud]

thanks will add the wax! heating up a lot first helped a lot in case anyone else was curious.

Now that it's out, im noticing some very dark char marks in the wood where the coils are. Is this safe / normal?

(photo shows one of the marks, but there is another identical one on the opposite side)

Yeah, this shit happend to my IMP through Wattage mod... @KeroZen is right. TCR is the way to go when you got coil(s) in your heater! have fun

 

[yogurtsauce]

If you guys were using TC mode in the first place that wouldn't happen. Also 40W on such tiny coils? That's what people are running their Splinters with ultra beefy mesh heaters at! You should get this thing rolling with much less Watts since there is much less heater mass.

Your problem is more likely your draw technique if you need that much to get good hits. Or you trigger pulsing technique. Or both. You need to improve your kung fu!

You need higher watts when the mass is low. Less watts when the mass is high. And you can’t run tcr with kanthal.
A mesh heater is the opposite of beefy.

 

[LabPong]

Yea...that charred mark is not good.....but again what temps have you been running....and is that from normal use? I understand you just got it......but this is the reason a glass sleeve would make me feel better lol.

 

[GoldenBud]

Yea...that charred mark is not good.....but again what temps have you been running....and is that from normal use? I understand you just got it......but this is the reason a glass sleeve would make me feel better lol.

IMO he preheated 5-10 seconds (more like 8-10 or more) before inhaling... something you should not do with coils on wattage mode..on high wattage... happend to me with the imp vape..

 

[GerVn_Vap0rist]

Yea...that charred mark is not good.....but again what temps have you been running....and is that from normal use? I understand you just got it......but this is the reason a glass sleeve would make me feel better lol.

Im abusing my glow hardcore and don’t have any charr spots. Sure I just do a preheat for 3-5 seconds. For the glow the draw technique is more important. Just have to check that the coils don’t touch the wood body.

 

[yogurtsauce]

Yeah you can bend the coil closer to the middle if it’s too close to the wood



you can see how fucked mine is

 

[KeroZen]

You need higher watts when the mass is low. Less watts when the mass is high. And you can’t run tcr with kanthal.
A mesh heater is the opposite of beefy.

You didn't use any RBT vapes don't you? You wouldn't make that last remark otherwise.

I think I've tested and built enough of these 510 mods to know what I'm talking about pal, no disrespect meant. I evoked mass alone but we also use much higher gauge materials. For sure if what you got is just a tiny super fine wire of very high resistance, you're gonna need to flow a lot of power through it and make it glow pretty bright... that's the principle of a light bulb, and also why this vape is called the glow I assume, but we've been voicing our concerns since the beginning that maybe this was not the wisest thing to do.

And sure Kanthal won't do for TC, that's why nobody's using that in their other products. But you are free to change your coils at will in this one to right?

 

[yogurtsauce]

You didn't use any RBT vapes don't you? You wouldn't make that last remark otherwise.

I think I've tested and built enough of these 510 mods to know what I'm talking about pal, no disrespect meant. I evoked mass alone but we also use much higher gauge materials. For sure if what you got is just a tiny super fine wire of very high resistance, you're gonna need to flow a lot of power through it and make it glow pretty bright... that's the principle of a light bulb, and also why this vape is called the glow I assume, but we've been voicing our concerns since the beginning that maybe this was not the wisest thing to do.

And sure Kanthal won't do for TC, that's why nobody's using that in their other products. But you are free to change your coils at will in this one to right?

yes you can change it. I have the timber elite which has a mesh coil, so I do in fact know about mesh coils. A mesh coil has high surface area. But little mass.

glowing kanthal is no concern; however, glowing ss is. The glowing is no big deal.


The reason why you need to run your splinter at 40w is because the heat does not retain well in a mesh coil. So you need enough power to sustain the heat. When you have a heat sink, it heats up, and stays hot. The mesh does not do that. Keep in mind that this is the glow thread, it’s fine to shit on it, but I think you should actually have it and used it before you shit on it.

 

[MrKappus]

The manufactures instructions clearly state to not use anything other than wattage mode with stock coils. I am using stock coils and don’t plan to change them.

It says to start at 35w and work your way up. The manufacturer goes up 50 with water attachments, and a lot of people in this forum use around 42/45w.

draw technique is fine I think since I’m using the same methods as I would with a grasshopper or MFLB. The vapor I get is good and feels “right”.

as for the preheat, the directions also say you can preheat it for a couple of seconds. But I think preheating too long without breathing, is the source of some charring.

Last night when initially trying to remove the wooden base from the coils (it was insanely tight and wouldn’t come of, even with tools), I heated it up first without breathing. While this worked the base got very hot, and I saw some wisps, of what I thought was vapor coming from the coil area.

so in retrospect I think that was smoke, and heating the wood for too long without breathing possibly caused this.

 

[Dutch-Mic]

so in retrospect I think that was smoke, and heating the wood for too long without breathing possibly caused this.

I have also charred the wood a bit. Sometimes I forget to push the button five times in a row and then it can happen that I unconsciously start heating the Glow.

About the wooden taste discussion: with the glass mouthpieces it's barely noticeable to me.

 

[GoldenBud]

guys sorry if me and @KeroZen weren't clear or got it wrong; with Kanthal coils ofc don't use TCR.. no TCR value for these.. only if you got SS coils.

 

[yogurtsauce]

guys sorry if me and @KeroZen weren't clear or got it wrong; with Kanthal coils ofc don't use TCR.. no TCR value for these.. only if you got SS coils.

It was the condescending-ness, not the information

 

[GoldenBud]

It was the condescending-ness, not the information

I respect every user in this forum. I can't explain it like "scientifically" but Imp (which is like Dreamwood with SS coil) worked bad with wattage mode. you can explain why? thanks

 

[yogurtsauce]

I respect every user in this forum. I can't explain it like "scientifically" but Imp (which is like Dreamwood with SS coil) worked bad with wattage mode. you can explain why? thanks

What was your up with it in watt mode? Not enough vapor? Maybe you were drawing too fast too slow?
When in watts, you change the temp using your draw speed. But when in TC mode, the temperature is consistent, but you can change draw speed and the watts will automatically go to what it needs to make the coil that specific temperature to make that air the temperature you want. So a slower suck in TC mode = lower watts= lower battery drain


Draw too fast in watt mode and you can overpower the coil. The coil temp ramps up and then if you draw before the coil is at its max temp, it will ramp up to the max temp slower, if you draw hard enough, it’ll lose temp instead of gaining.

It takes more power to heat the coil, than it is it maintain the heat. this is the main reason for everything. Funky junk software allows you to do cruise mode with power saving. Which is TC, but the watts drop down when you’re not drawing.

the TetraX gets around the small mass of the coils by having four glass rods which are wrapped up by the coils. The glass rods absorb the heat until it gets to the temp of the coil, then you can rip it without worrying of overpowering the heater.

 

[GoldenBud]

the TetraX gets around the small mass of the coils by having four glass rods which are wrapped up by the coils. The glass rods absorb the heat until it gets to the temp of the coil, then you can rip it without worrying of overpowering the heater.

In my case it was a faulty mod probably. because when I sold my imp, didn't wanna deal with the 510 in that time after i burned the wood( i got so bad cough i didn't wanna see it anymore). the mod was Eleaf pico.

the guy who was coming to buy it had Joyetech evic mod. TCR worked there amazing. I was shocked. I wanted to keep this device(in my head, I couldn't tell send him away without the device), but he came like 100km to buy it. so I sold it but finally discovered the TCR world. the previous mod I had had some problem to perform well.

it was like an year ago when i had less knowledge

 

[MrKappus]

Some follow up; spoke with the creator and while he said some dark spots are normal, this is way too dark.

he also gave me a tip to get the base off which helped a lot. Make sure it’s on the battery and wiggle back and forth at first rather than pull.

 

[yogurtsauce]

In my case it was a faulty mod probably. because when I sold my imp, didn't wanna deal with the 510 in that time after i burned the wood( i got so bad cough i didn't wanna see it anymore). the mod was Eleaf pico.

the guy who was coming to buy it had Joyetech evic mod. TCR worked there amazing. I was shocked. I wanted to keep this device(in my head, I couldn't tell send him away without the device), but he came like 100km to buy it. so I sold it but finally discovered the TCR world. the previous mod I had had some problem to perform well.

it was like an year ago when i had less knowledge

Ah, you might have needed to change the resistance. That’s another factor of TC

 

[MrKappus]

One more followup, i took some very fine sandpaper and sanded down the inner part of the base that connects with the coils, and waxed it up (as well as the rings). I also slightly bent the coils in as they were coming out very far on the ends.

now everything is working perfectly. I can get the cover on and off properly, and removing the mouthpiece doesn’t pull it all apart.

super glad I asked you all and reached out the maker.

Thanks everyone!

 

[Shit Snacks]

Super fast shipping from @VGOODIEZ as usual, even in a pandemic! This picture can't do it justice, I'll get a better one eventually...

First bowl in the glass cooling stem, some sweet Cake Mix at 35 watts, on cuboid mini for now. Pretty nice experience off the bat! Looking forward to loading the wooden bowl and more

 

[GerVn_Vap0rist]

Super fast shipping from @VGOODIEZ as usual, even in a pandemic! This picture can't do it justice, I'll get a better one eventually...

First bowl in the glass cooling stem, some sweet Cake Mix at 35 watts, on cuboid mini for now. Pretty nice experience off the bat! Looking forward to loading the wooden bowl and more

Congrats man ! That’s a beautiful glow. Hope you will have some fun with it

 

[Shit Snacks]

Thanks yeah so much better in person, I'll have to come back with a better phone camera! But here is the other side with the wood mp:

Had my third bowl in the glass cooling stem, some beyond blue dream, starting at 30 Watts which was great. Stepped up to 33 and then 35 to finish, stirring a few times, though I loaded about 1/3 full (can stir less frequently this way)

I haven't tried to adjust the airflow yet, still wide open, and I have not tried loading the bowl with the wood mp or the GonG yet... I will also probably move it from this Cuboid Mini, to a Wismec P80 or G3D, though dual batteries seems a little unnecessary for the 14 at least?

 

[Jacer]

Thanks yeah so much better in person, I'll have to come back with a better phone camera! But here is the other side with the wood mp:

Had my third bowl in the glass cooling stem, some beyond blue dream, starting at 30 Watts which was great. Stepped up to 33 and then 35 to finish, stirring a few times, though I loaded about 1/3 full (can stir less frequently this way)

I haven't tried to adjust the airflow yet, still wide open, and I have not tried loading the bowl with the wood mp or the GonG yet... I will also probably move it from this Cuboid Mini, to a Wismec P80 or G3D, though dual batteries seems a little unnecessary for the 14 at least?

Saw a great sale on the R3D so I grabbed that to run my 14 on, I can let you know how that goes. Granted I run it right now on an R3 and the 3 batteries last forever.