kokolokokolokon
Well-Known Member
Does anyone tried this for bigger devices?
Not at max power of course
Not at max power of course
DIY Induction Heater Builds and References
- Thread starter TommyDee
- Start date
TommyDee
Vaporitor
I think this requires a center-tapped coil @kokolokokolokon since it only has one choke.
132ikl
Member
Thanks for the pointers.
actually looking at 11.67V, which definitely still good.) I've got an M'21. I can live with a weak cap, I just wanted to make sure I wasn't doing something wrong Also came across this old Reddit comment of yours about cap gain ratios after doing some searching, very helpful. Have you done any more measurements since then? Might upgrade to a new cap if in the future I decide I'm not satisfied
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TommyDee
Vaporitor
My last measurements were of some 419 caps I got a few years ago with the 3rd batch of cap materials. They came in at a GR of 5:1. The '3rd batch' was of the original source. Learned since then that making 304 stainless steel magnetic requires work hardening the material. That means is it all about the tooling.
tokenknifeguy
Well-Known Member
Has anyone made one of these induction heaters for the Dani Fusion? I know most are geared toward the vapcap. I really would love to build my own induction heater, but I have no real knowledge of electrical mumbo jumbology. I just want one that I can plug into the wall and able to heat up my Fusion within like 10-20 seconds. I've seen folks using an ih for the dani and it taking closer to a min. Is there a good website that lists items needed and how to put it together?
kokolokokolokon
Well-Known Member
to reach that times you would need a stronger pcb than the usual one. For example:
Also I would recommend a dial regulator for the power (in the previous link, it can reach 1000W in theory….you dont want to use it at 1000W and it is good to find a sweet point with a dial).
Even you can get a screen to see the power, or a timer.
This are just examples and im not a pro making IH’s. I hope someone more can give you some tips!
TommyDee
Vaporitor
Watts is watts. Eventually everything will heat up, so the question is, wat rate of heating do you want. 120 watts based on the standard module is nothing to sneeze at. I find 60-70 watts to work out perfectly for a DV. This says you can easily double the mass of the tip/cap and still have a very good heating rate. Problem with faster heating is that the bake suffers in several ways.
Edit: I've run constant current power supplies on the standard module to manage variable input power. Works great.
Edit: I've run constant current power supplies on the standard module to manage variable input power. Works great.
2tiki
Well-Known Member
When I clicked on your last link, it was a 404 not found page. I have one of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B083GG2H6R/?th=1
Would that work well for most (if not all) dynavap, dani, etc, type of devices? Should it work with the up to 12v induction heater kits? Should it heat things just as fast as the Ispire Wand?
Could I use it with the more powerful IH that you link to, as long as I don't put it past 12 v? If so, would that be safer than using the 12v IH if I want to get it to 11v-12v?
What would I need to buy to connect the IH kit to the power supply? I assume there is a name for whatever wire plugs into the power supply, and whatever plugs into the IH kit.
Do both kits you link to, come with the coil, or do I need to buy that separately?
Thanks!
I use the original induction heater from the 1. post at page 1 with a 12V 5A power supply and it work well with my Dani fusion. Heating time is around 20 seconds for first click, following clicks are around 12 second.
Flotsam
Active Member
I am new to this area and this forum, but i am an engineer by training. Just curious why no one has come up with a way of using a power tool battery for a power source? It seems these things are very safe, small packaging, well supported, and very prevalent and can provide significant current to an application. Milwaukee 12 v immediately comes to mind.
Thoughts?
Thoughts?
Pukka
Well-Known Member
I believe it's because the pack connector/s is/are propritarary and hard to source.
Octavia
No thoughts, head empty
Would be neat to see a DIY version of the vestratto forge! Seemed like the extra power from the larger pack was very effective, but the bulkiness and relative scarcity of the power packs compared to 18650/21700 cells make them less desirable to develop with.
Flotsam
Active Member
I guess i would need to see the form factor of what you are trying to connect to
but this is the battery and holder
If you dig hard enough can probably find the connector type you need to interface with on the vape. Undoubtedly since these are all Lithium batteries you have to be mindful of low voltage cutoff which these devices would need to have.
Pop the battery out from its holder and charge like you would for 12v tools.
I have never hooked up a battery to a small vape, but this was an inductive heater so maybe a small bulge is not horrible. just spitballing here. I have hooked up other batteries to other power tools i have found for next to nothing at other thrift stores. Nice cheap circular saw for instance.
but this is the battery and holder
If you dig hard enough can probably find the connector type you need to interface with on the vape. Undoubtedly since these are all Lithium batteries you have to be mindful of low voltage cutoff which these devices would need to have.
Pop the battery out from its holder and charge like you would for 12v tools.
I have never hooked up a battery to a small vape, but this was an inductive heater so maybe a small bulge is not horrible. just spitballing here. I have hooked up other batteries to other power tools i have found for next to nothing at other thrift stores. Nice cheap circular saw for instance.
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Hi all! Have my first analog on the way and love building electronics projects so naturally I googled around to this thread. Wondering if the page 1 build is the goto, or if somewhere buried in here is an update or preffered parts list? Definitely want to build one of these in a small project box, wall powered initially, and then build a 18650 battery pack for it after. Thank you all!
Also, have a convector-xl on the way, wondering if there is a specific size glass I need for that to fit in. Anyone else using one of those analogs? Thanks again!
Also, have a convector-xl on the way, wondering if there is a specific size glass I need for that to fit in. Anyone else using one of those analogs? Thanks again!
zeebudz
Well-Known Member
The Convector XL cap is 15.3mm wide.
I'd also like to do a DIY IH but I haven't found anything sized for more demanding devices than the DV. I'd rather not rely on my own hacks...
badbee
Well-Known Member
That build looks good. TommyDee is an expert with these things. The only thing to watch out for is that he was experimenting with variations, like tiny units powered by 18350 cells, that you probably don't need. His suggestion for cutting the signal control trace on the board is an advanced step that you don't need to follow.
I was just trying to help someone on reddit with a malfunctioning IH build yesterday. If you see any of the builds that recommend a 5 A power supply, don't get one that low powered, it leads to problems. I recommend a minimum of an 8A supply, and then only with a coil that has a reduced coil count of 7 - 9 wraps. If you are going to use a full sized coil, use a full sized 10 A supply.
Thank you for the tips! Going to look through my giant box of wires and power supplies later this evening with those specs in mind.
Anyone have a pointer for a coil and glass sleave that will work with the 15.3mm diameter bowl of a Camouflet Convector XL?
Ok! So I have a pile of components in my Aliexpress shopping cart, prepping to build a heater for my Camouflet Convector XL. The Convector XL has a 15.3mm bowl size. I am taking the advice above to go with a 12v 8a power supply. I have the ZVS 120w unit, mosfet, button, power supply, all the goods really besides a project box at this time.
My question though: How much space needs to be open around the bowl itself and the coil to make induction work? The glass piece I found has a 22mm diameter, with 2mm wall thickness, which would lead me to a 18mm inner diameter. With the coil wrapped around this glass piece, am I good to go? Or should I find something smaller and more snug on the bowl? Say a 17mm inner diameter instead? I found one with 17mm inner diameter but has 4mm walls, so that would be 25mm total which would place the coil technically further away from the bowl.
Am I overthinking this? Thank all!
My question though: How much space needs to be open around the bowl itself and the coil to make induction work? The glass piece I found has a 22mm diameter, with 2mm wall thickness, which would lead me to a 18mm inner diameter. With the coil wrapped around this glass piece, am I good to go? Or should I find something smaller and more snug on the bowl? Say a 17mm inner diameter instead? I found one with 17mm inner diameter but has 4mm walls, so that would be 25mm total which would place the coil technically further away from the bowl.
Am I overthinking this? Thank all!
maremaresing
Well-Known Member
@TommyDee and all ; How do I keep my coil from doing... this. Also how do I get Fusion 2.0 heating down to 20s instead of the 45-60 sec it is now.
This is a standard ZVS board I've used a bunch, re wound the coil for the larger tube, running at 10A/12v. It's possible one of the leads coming off the coil is longer than the other. Does that matter?
Is this just the heat transfer from the fusion doing the damage? Should I insulate with exhaust wrap, or whatever is in the pictures on page 1?
edit: Where can I buy material to make my own coil? I have one spare here, but would be nice to wrap my own to size assuming I know the proper length.
edit edit: Is it bad to have the top coil lead pass back by the coil on it's way to the board? Could there be a secondary heating going on there due to it's proximity?
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TommyDee
Vaporitor
@maremaresing - you're problem is that you have a metal box. You are inducing current into the chassis.
It also appears you have shortened the coil wire significantly. They are tuned for 3S with the wire being 33" long. You're coil-wire length could be sufficient to try a 2S arrangement.
maremaresing
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the answers!
- Is an aluminum box not sufficient? I see lot's of people putting them into aluminum enclosures. (might explain why inductor whine was so loud, though..)
- Also, I didn't shorten the wire at all. It's the original coil length I was using before. Can/should I wrap coil around itself on the next build to focus all the energy on a single point on my fusion cap? Looks like you did that on some of your builds.
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badbee
Well-Known Member
To replace the coil you want 12 AWG Copper Magnet wire, it costs about $12 for 2.5 ft on Amazon. This is solid strand wire with a very thin enamel insulating coating. To solder you grind the insulation off the cut ends with sand paper.
It won't matter if the coil is centered in the magnet wire or more to one end. The length can matter because it changes the overall resistance and these oscillating circuits can be sensitive to resistance changes. Having the bent end of the wire pass by the coil shouldn't matter too much. Running perpendicular like that it will have very little coupling into the coil field. Any "self heating" of the wire will be trivial compared to the direct heating from the significant currents that are running through it as it is operating.
People have had mixed results with metal enclosures. For many it has been no problem but others have reported solving problems by moving to a plastic enclosure. Magnetic fields are tricky...
TommyDee
Vaporitor
Aluminum is not fully transparent to RF but it definitely helps.
Remember that there is an RF field along the legs of the coil. Typically you want the design to route the two wires close together. You might be disrupting the field around the two chokes.