Divine Tribe atty's

[PPN]

Hi, I received my new Quartz Quest base and a Gen2 wpa. Still not tested the new QQ base but I tried the Gen2 GonG but there is an issue cause it doesn't fit, it's slightly too small to fit,I was able to use it but now it's stucked on the atty and I wasn't able to slide it more than after the first oring, now it's stuck but i hope it will took off easier while cold but i'm afraid to broke the ceramic using it, there is a lot of friction and not cause the o-rings....

Is somebody can share settings for cloudy hits with the Gen2, please?

edit: just found a position where the GonG slide down completly, so that's fine @divinetribe

 

[divinetribe]

Hi, I received my new Quartz Quest base and a Gen2 wpa. Still not tested the new QQ base but I tried the Gen2 GonG but there is an issue cause it doesn't fit, it's slightly too small to fit,I was able to use it but now it's stucked on the atty and I wasn't able to slide it more than after the first oring, now it's stuck but i hope it will took off easier while cold but i'm afraid to broke the ceramic using it, there is a lot of friction and not cause the o-rings....

Is somebody can share settings for cloudy hits with the Gen2, please?

edit: just found a position where the GonG slide down completly, so that's fine @divinetribe

use coconut oil on all orings keep your piece lubed well, i use VG to oil mine.

as far as quartz cups the problem is with both companies ( the quest and donut v4 bases), i want the bottom of the cup to be thin but this is something i can not control. I am hoping they will get better at making them in time so as not to have the big chunk of glass at the bottom of the cup, both companies are aware and will be working on it. how thick the glass is will affect settings. Remember these quartz cups are not easy to make, i am still waiting for one glass blower in the USA to try and make a quest mouthpiece i was quoted $200 from this guy who is in Humboldt. just want to mention i am working on this to perfect it .

 

[OF]

So, for your amusement, a tip on keeping the MP gleaming clean: Use Mister Dishwasher!

I've done it half a dozen times now, very impressive compared to other things I tried......and much easier. I just carefully thread it over one of the posts, big end up, and run it with the day's dishes. Be careful, the inlet tube is off center, be sure the post goes on 'the big side'. I'll even stop it at the end of the wash cycle, pull the MP and rinse in the sink. No need to wait around you know......

That hot detergent, flowing through the MP for 20 minutes, does the job like you wouldn't believe possible. Kinda fun, too.

Then, of course you've gotta load the little fellow up...........

OF

 

[oldfool]

i want the bottom of the cup to be thin
.

Wouldn't thick be fine as long as it's consistent?

just want to mention i am working on this to perfect it .

 

[brucee10]

So, for your amusement, a tip on keeping the MP gleaming clean: Use Mister Dishwasher!

I've done it half a dozen times now, very impressive compared to other things I tried......and much easier. I just carefully thread it over one of the posts, big end up, and run it with the day's dishes. Be careful, the inlet tube is off center, be sure the post goes on 'the big side'. I'll even stop it at the end of the wash cycle, pull the MP and rinse in the sink. No need to wait around you know......

That hot detergent, flowing through the MP for 20 minutes, does the job like you wouldn't believe possible. Kinda fun, too.

Then, of course you've gotta load the little fellow up...........

OF

Couldn't you just soak it in Dark Crystal and it be would be a gentler alternative?

 

[OF]

Couldn't you just soak it in Dark Crystal and it be would be a gentler alternative?

Beats me, don't know the stuff. I'm, of course, happy to take your word for it it works.

OTOH I run the dishwasher 'every day' so this is a zero cost, minimum effort solution?

Nice to have choices.......

OF

 

[brucee10]

Beats me, don't know the stuff. I'm, of course, happy to take your word for it it works.

OTOH I run the dishwasher 'every day' so this is a zero cost, minimum effort solution?

Nice to have choices.......

OF

Dark Crystal is a little pricey, but you do just soak without risk of it getting tossed around the washing machine. 30 minutes cleans the baked on reclaim off of my glass and quartz.

OTOH I don't have a dishwasher, so I might not be remembering their power correctly.

 

[OF]

Dark Crystal is a little pricey, but you do just soak without risk of it getting tossed around the washing machine. 30 minutes cleans the baked on reclaim off of my glass and quartz.

OTOH I don't have a dishwasher, so I might not be remembering their power correctly.

No risk of getting 'tossed around'. Notice I said "I just carefully thread it over one of the posts, big end up, and run it with the day's dishes." That means it's not able to move around since there's a five inch post it's sitting around. Water/detergent drains off the upper rack (kind of like rain), that which falls in the open end flows down and out the MP end washing the deposits with it. Very tough chemicals in modern detergents, too caustic to touch?

For a manual cleaning I recommend considering PBW, a special purpose detergent developed by Coors for cleaning brewery gear. Consider brew kettles have the very sort of burnt on hydrocarbons we deal with and they can't be scrubbed. Great stuff, ten dollars (a pound) will last years and years.
http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/pbw-the-chemistry-of-clean.7854/

Otherwise, the dishwasher involves detergent, water and electricity I'm already paying for and takes almost no effort (and generates no wastes). This means it satisfies two of my major character traits (being cheap and lazy), sadly there's no chance of improvement in that scaring the women and horses thing........

Use what suits you, but if you have a dishwasher you're already 'running' I think you should consider it. And if you're using ISO or other solvents, consider PBW? Pretty amazing stuff, really. Works in even very hard water (buffered too you know). A teaspoon full from time to time will clean that mineral deposit haze out of the dishwasher you don't have, too.

OF

 

[HSIHP]

Anyway, somewhere along the line I seem to have disturbed the top and heat sink, my mod crashed out to VW for the first time in dozens of sessions, involving hundreds of heatings. No big deal, some fiddling and it's back on line. It'll be nice to get the upgraded units where this dicey connection doesn't exist.


OF

OF, would you mind being more specific on this? I have a V1 and I seem so be having a problem with the heat sink bumping me out of TC. I've taken the whole thing apart and made sure I have a good connection, and without the heat sink I'm having great success but that's not a long term solution. Only when I add the heat sink do I get bumped out. Any suggestions?

 

[OF]

Only when I add the heat sink do I get bumped out. Any suggestions?

Yes. Do the upgrade. That's what it's for. It addresses at least 3 potential problem areas we've discussed at length, and it seems very effectively.

For openers, notice that the pin the HS doesn't float. Nor in the atty on top of it? Removing that connection is a huge improvement.

Do the upgrade.

OF

 

[HSIHP]

I am, in fact, on the waiting list for the upgrade. Matt was kind enough to send a V1 during the wait. I’ve been tinkering with it for a few days and got a few sessions out of it (they were amazing) but the fun has come to a halt with this damn HS.

Oh well, patience it will have to be.

 

[OF]

I am, in fact, on the waiting list for the upgrade.

Patients, Grasshopper. You can go nuts, I'm sure, with contact issues in the old design. I came close a time or two (for all I know I may have stepped over the line, the voices won't tell me.......). I've written about it a couple of times in this thread. I've already mentioned the OAL of the center pin (more accurately where it's placed since the mod has a spring loaded contact. The cart has to stop on the center pin for reliable contact.

The new insulator in the base supports the 'hot contact' much better. The occasional shorts to the frame were small potatoes for sure (at least in my experience) compared to the lack of support. The center screw threads into the shallow dish under the glass bowl, hopefully clamping the contact well. I must have fussed with that dozens of times to get the resistance to hold (solid contact on heating). Once 'fixed' it often would hold for dozens of cycles. FWIW I think some mods are more sensitive than others???

If it works more often without the heatsink, go that way. I was doing just that when the kit got here and put those issues to rest (along with a couple others). Matt did an excellent job on the new base, help is on the way.

OF

 

[BatmanDad]

Liquid Tape Mod - Divine Tribe Quartz Quest (1st batch)

With all the great initial reviews of QQ v2 surfacing, this post is probably a little late. I have learned a great deal about the QQ v1 deficiencies from everyone in this community since the Paperclip Mod post; I thought it might still be a good idea to share my solution for those who are waiting on the v2 or someone who just want to have a spare QQ.

Before we get into the fix, I also want to callout that I have replaced the ceramic heaters with 24 gauge grade 1 titanium coils. After rebuilding the v1 several times, the nickel wires broke off. I soldered it back on but was concerned about the health aspect (I had similar concerns with the paperclips). Bonus - the Ti wire’s orange glow made the QQv1 very fun to use for me personally.

To get everything ready, I took the QQ v1 apart completely and clean every part thoroughly. Here’s what you need for the QQv1 Liquid Tape fix:

1. Liquid Tape
2. Needle nose pliers
3. 9/64” flathead screwdriver

The v1 has two major flaws - connectivity with the posts and shorting of the removable post. The connectivity issue is caused by the heater wires shifting around the extra space at the bottom of the post when heated. I noticed the screws are not going all the way down to the bottom of the posts on my QQ v1 no matter how hard I try to tighten them. I stripped a few trying.

To fix this, I use a 9/64” flathead screwdriver to widen the width of the post opening. This enables the screws to be tightened more easily all the way to the bottom. In case you go overboard with the widening (I did many times), use a needle nose pliers to narrow and adjust the openings. This fix has held the heater wires tighter than ever before, I have not have to adjust them since.

The atomizer short issue is caused by the exposed sides of the removable post and the base touching. To mitigate this problem, take the post out and apply a thin layer of black Liquid Tape on both sides of the removable post - top to bottom (circled). Alternatively, you can also apply the liquid Tape to the sides of the opening at the base. Either way, this fix has resolved the atomizer short problem.

With the customization specified above, my QQ v1 has been running at 0.15 oms with the Ti wires. Extra bonus of this mod is my QQ v1 will now stay in TC mode (Ti) without being kicked out by the eLeaf PICO.

 

[OF]

Before we get into the fix, I also want to callout that I have replaced the ceramic heaters with 24 gauge grade 1 titanium coils. After rebuilding the v1 several times, the nickel wires broke off. I soldered it back on but was concerned about the health aspect (I had similar concerns with the paperclips).

With the customization specified above, my QQ v1 has been running at 0.15 oms with the Ti wires. Extra bonus of this mod is my QQ v1 will now stay in TC mode (Ti) without being kicked out by my eLeaf PICO.

Great tip! Thanks for posting it. Any idea how long the coils are? I guess you could just 'cut and try' until you got about .3 Ohms for one......

I think you're right not to trust soldering. Soft solders are sure to melt and flow about, I think the OG connections are 'silver braze'? Your coil solution avoids all that.

FWIW I'm glad I no longer fight such contact problems since I upgraded my unit. I'm sorry not everyone on the list has theirs yet, of course, don't mean to 'rub it in'.......

Matt said he expected to have it caught up next week? Help is on the way.

Weekend regards to all.

OF

 

[BatmanDad]

Great tip! Thanks for posting it. Any idea how long the coils are? I guess you could just 'cut and try' until you got about .3 Ohms for one......

OF

Try starting with ~5 inches per coil. Wrap it around a small screwdriver 6 times as shown in Matt's video. Secure both ends to the posts and use a wire cutter to clip off the extra nice and tight.

 

[tharealmclovin]

Anyone have a link for a small hydratube attachment. Something more portable. I think the QQ paired with a small top will outperform the puffco peak.

Also is there a hydratube adapter for the QQ or does the one for the v3 work?

 

[OF]

Also is there a hydratube adapter for the QQ or does the one for the v3 work?

Not yet, and No. I think there's one for another vape that some have used?

This is what I do (couple a 'vape pen' bubbler with a short piece of tube):

OF

 

[tharealmclovin]

looks nice. is that just a generic atomizer bubbler? I see a bunch of small ones on Dhgate. Whats the best TCR settings for the QQ? I see the manual and site list different values. Im using an EVIC VTC mini, should I upgrade??

Not yet, and No. I think there's one for another vape that some have used?

This is what I do (couple a 'vape pen' bubbler with a short piece of tube):

OF

 

[OF]

looks nice. is that just a generic atomizer bubbler? I see a bunch of small ones on Dhgate. Whats the best TCR settings for the QQ? I see the manual and site list different values. Im using an EVIC VTC mini, should I upgrade??

All the similar units I've tried work fine (from DHgate), like this one for instance:

The VTC mini worked OK for me. It's a long term favorite for me with other DT stuff. I'm still using the same settings Matt originally posted: Ni mode (internal TCR factor), 310F, 55 Watts limit. Takes about ten seconds to 'make temperature'. It puts a HUGE load on the poor 18650 making 55 Watts for long periods (different with a few seconds on an e-cig), only top end cells in excellent shape are up to it. I bought the dual version of that mod (uses two 18650s) which is less demanding making 55 Watts (now 150 not 75 max), but it's big and heavy for it. Your all.

There are other setting that work 'the same' of course, the key is 55 Watts should get to the magic point in about 10 seconds and enter temperature limit mode (the heaters will be glowing at that point), be sure to back off the power as you take the hit, otherwise it's gonna overheat. The bubbler in the OP is great since you can look down onto the flat window over the MP and watch the vapor come across, nice clue that....... Otherwise, sneaking into the bathroom and watching in the mirror is what got me on track.

Go with Sony VTC5 (or better still by a tiny bit VTC5As), Samsung 25Rs or LG HE2 or HE4 and you should be fine. Ignore fancy number claims for 'better cells', none such exist in our world. There are really only four makers of top quality 18650s, and Panasonic doesn't make a suitable one at present. Stick with Sony, Samsung or LG (those exact models) from known good vendors (there are counterfeits) like Orbtronic or IMR Battery.

Regards to all.

OF

 

[graydeh1]

So, for your amusement, a tip on keeping the MP gleaming clean: Use Mister Dishwasher!

I've done it half a dozen times now, very impressive compared to other things I tried......and much easier. I just carefully thread it over one of the posts, big end up, and run it with the day's dishes. Be careful, the inlet tube is off center, be sure the post goes on 'the big side'. I'll even stop it at the end of the wash cycle, pull the MP and rinse in the sink. No need to wait around you know......

That hot detergent, flowing through the MP for 20 minutes, does the job like you wouldn't believe possible. Kinda fun, too.

Then, of course you've gotta load the little fellow up...........

OF

In my house the dishwasher is a mrs.



Bitterly I'm actually joking because I wash the dishes in my house. My quartz Quest came in yesterday, though in Arctic fox I had a little trouble setting up TCR, the field/column for coil material was missing on the screen?
Anyone know any good TC settings?

 

[OF]

Anyone know any good TC settings?

You mean like the original settings recommended by Matt, the ones I'm using, which I gave in the post directly above yours in response to the request for that same information by @tharealmclovin????

Like using the dishwasher, your call. But that's my advice, FWIW.

Still.

OF

 

[invertedisdead]

Quartz donut looks nice!

 

[graydeh1]

Hehe, thx OF.
I was skimming while reading and did not see the TC setting, it was right above my nose.

Edit:
Seems theres a box in advanced tab, settings tab to enable "coil material". I could not pick tcr from under temperature control box in profile , it wasnt there.

 

[divinetribe]

QUEST UPDATE:

got a bunch shipped out today and will be getting the last of the upgrades shipped to everyone by tomorrow. I want to let you guys know I have a small number of complete 2nd batch quests kits in stock if anyone would like 1 or 2 email matt@ineedhemp.com they are $42 ea( if you are a first batch buyer they are $32) i will make a paypal invoice.

 

[divinetribe]

QUEST UPDATE:

got a bunch shipped out today and will be getting the last of the upgrades shipped to everyone by tomorrow. I want to let you guys know I have a small number of complete 2nd batch quests kits in stock if anyone would like 1 or 2 email matt@ineedhemp.com they are $42 ea( if you are a first batch buyer they are $32) i will make a paypal invoice.

also have quartz cups, mouthpieces ,and rods in stock sorry for the double post not sure what happened