PPN
Volute of Vapor
That's a good idea cause we can "like" your post 2 times!
Still not tried the new QQ but it looks better than the V1, too busy to have some time to make rosin for now!
Divine Tribe atty's
- Thread starter divinetribe
- Start date
Still not tried the new QQ but it looks better than the V1, too busy to have some time to make rosin for now!
tylerj55
Well-Known Member
Does that mean the rods up until this point we’re the old ones? They’ve all been reading at like .35-.4 and I was wondering why lol. I’ll have to order some of the new ones.
Bad Ocelot
Well-Known Member
Woo-hoo! QQ upgrade coming my way. Should be here this weekend I believe.
I stopped using the original after it got all gunked up & I was unable to disassemble it for cleaning. Looking forward to getting back on the QQ train! Got some tasty lemonade crumble waiting on it
I stopped using the original after it got all gunked up & I was unable to disassemble it for cleaning. Looking forward to getting back on the QQ train! Got some tasty lemonade crumble waiting on it
Kanna_Kult
Well-Known Member
So I got my qq v2 a while back and it preformed really well and quickly became my favorite atomizer, but starting last night it began doing what the v1 did, kicking me into power mode and out of TC. I've tried running it on Ni 35-55w 390-500*f and TCR 225 35-55w 390-520*f and TCR 300 35-55w 390-520*f and none of those will work anymore. My resistance is locked and reading 0.29 and I'm using an joyetech evic vtc mini with the 18650 it came with (at least two years old but hasn't seen much use) and I should mention my HVT TAF sai with Ti bucket is also not working on this mod (very likely I just blew the donut lol was abusing that thing at 390-450*f at 35w) and no matter what I see it to with the sai it just goes into temp protection mode immediately apon hitting the button. Anyone got any advice ? I'd love to get this lil beast workin again
OF
Well-Known Member
it's been driving me nuts... had a bronchial bug that was seemingly everywhere in so cal, didn't medicate for 2 weeks. tried medicating here and there with my v3, but still ended up coughing up a lung. will eventually get my QQv2 mounted and ready
I've got one word for you......eatables! We MMJ types sort this out eventually I think. While not as immediately gratifying it does the job avoiding reparation issues. I have a couple dozen infused cookies and some butter frozen 'in case'. Needless to say, I re commend it.
Best wishes for a speedy recovery. QQ will be waiting for you.
OF
jpdnkstr
Well-Known Member
I am looking forward to trying a QQv2!
looney2nz
Research Geek, Mad Scientist
yeah, edibles are my go to. sadly, in CA, you can no longer buy anything stronger than 100mg, and my dose range is 200-300mg, to do that I increase sugar intake easily by a factor of 4.
now if I could get my normal CO2 oil supply, with some help, I can make a 9x9 pan with 64 small squares in it, each of them a dose of 200-300mg with minimal sugar (important for cancer patients).
Yeah, that's roughly 12-18G of concentrate.
sadly, it is a dessert out here in terms of clean lab tested oils, same for highCBD strains (let alone organic strains).
I tried going out with no meds to see my doc, by the end of the day, I was in the ER overnight.
OF
Well-Known Member
Bummer. Time to investigate infused butter/coconut oil? Bakes real nice they say........
OF
With clean concentrates being hard to find, rosin is a nice alternative to produce your own concentrate for edibles (and our DT's as well). Sorry this may be OT but I thought it may be helpful for patients who need meds now. I used to wait for concentrates now I make them at home in a matter of minutes.
Might have to jump on this QQv2 train... I haven't had a portable in a while cause I lost interest in them but a proper quartz cup for my rosin seems hard to resist... 
looney2nz
Research Geek, Mad Scientist
current problem is I can't get the dose high enough without making multiple passes of flowers in oil and trying to concentrate it that way. don't have the energy for that.
I've collected a variety of live resin and top shelf concentrate (just not my usual collection), hoping to get the concentration up there. now we'll see if I can get some baking help
OF
Well-Known Member
Before we get into the fix, I also want to callout that I have replaced the ceramic heaters with 24 gauge grade 1 titanium coils. After rebuilding the v1 several times, the nickel wires broke off. I soldered it back on but was concerned about the health aspect (I had similar concerns with the paperclips). Bonus - the Ti wire’s orange glow made the QQv1 very fun to use for me personally.
Thanks again for suggesting this. I've been plagued by very random jumps to VW about 2 or 3 seconds into heating. Same spot??? I finally ran it down to a poor connection of one lead to the pad on the tube (what I think is a furnace brazed Silver connection, based on a Matt post about V3?). Careful inspection when I had it out found one lead could move slightly, that is there was a tiny crack where it should be bonded solidly as it entered the connection. Due most likely to my incessant fiddling. I have several from the rebuilds, but decided to get a fresh start and ordered new rods from Matt eventually.
So I decided to give this a try. I wound 24 gauge coils as you suggested around a rod just under .1 inch (just over 2mm). "Six and a half turns", that is 6 on one side, 7 on the other, as I think yours are? Much different. And I think a useful area for experiment.
For some reason the Ti range on my Pico won't get it hot enough even set for 600F. I had to trick it using the Ni range with 470F and 50 Watts being my current numbers. It reaches temperature in five seconds or so then cuts power back to 'the low 30s' (say 32 Watts average) when limited. So forty Watts would eventually 'get there' but it's nice to get there a little faster.......
However, my technique from there is very different, more typical I think. That is it still has to heat more after limiting to get vapor and I need to keep at least some heat going of the hit dies. Before I think technique had enough heat 'in transit' so I could cut power and 'coast' through the hit with vapor tapering off right on time. Like watching the old men play Bacce Ball, trying to put just enough speed on their ball to get as close to the Jack (target ball) as possible as it coasts to a stop. Very much like VapMan really. The new (thicker) bowls simply call for a few extra seconds of heat before the hit with this technique.
Not so now, in fact I failed to repeat the old technique with the coils? And it's heating faster/using less power than before I think......
Right now I'm thinking the ceramic rod is 'to blame' here. The heater element is on the inside and the tube is a very good insulator of heat, right? Worse still it's a great reflector of IR (unlike glass that transmits or absorbs it). Almost a worst case for transfer out toward the load. Instead it heats a lot of air? We have 'power to burn', but I think coils are more efficient than the rods, although the rods might make more sense from a production POV.
Very fun stuff. Unfortunately it's upped my concentrate consumption, driven up my tolerance in the process. Not that I didn't ask for it of course, but to be avoided in the long run. I've got some excellent herb vapes that have been ignored for a while.......
Best weekend wishes to all.
OF
Edit: I occurs to me if you want to build a small furnace (say to heat metals) you put a heater (hot wire) INSIDE a ceramic tube. The tube insulates the furnace by BLOCKING HEAT TRANSFER OUT and instead reflects it back inward (just what we don't want)?
Open heater coils seem to have real advantages, and behave differently because of that?
OF
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Bad Ocelot
Well-Known Member
QQ came in yesterday so got to try out the v2. Resistance is so much more stable, without tweaking anything at all 0.24 straight out of the box & stayed that way for 2 smallish loads. Still fine tuning my settings as things weren't getting quite hot enough with tcr=242 at 420F & 47w. This is the same coefficient I use for the small and medium ceramic donuts, I think I might need to bump it up a touch. The same settings at 470F gave more visible vapor, but some tweaking still needed. This is using stock firmware on an eLeaf invoke 220w. Been meaning to put AF on that mod but hadn't gotten around to it. The eLeaf firmware may well be fine for this atty, but I'll probably switch anyway because I like the profile feature and it's nice to have all my DT dedicated mods set up the same way so the attys are more or less modular.
looney2nz
Research Geek, Mad Scientist
I wouldn't crank it higher than 420-430 F (allowing for some heat loss), or you'll increase the levels of benzene, etc.
Getting close to the end of this bronchial-respiratory thing... looking forward to giving the new QQ a shot
OF
Well-Known Member
I wouldn't crank it higher than 420-430 F (allowing for some heat loss), or you'll increase the levels of benzene, etc.
Getting close to the end of this bronchial-respiratory thing... looking forward to giving the new QQ a shot
For sure we want to avoid nasty fractions, but I think it's really important to remember that the displayed temperature is not an accurate indication of load temperature. The sensing is done by resistance changes in the heater due to heating. Not the load (which would be lower due to the above mentioned heat loss).
More important, the indication of the metal temperature is not accurate (do you really think Ni glows at 3210F? I don't either......). We can't use the right TCR value since that would call for a setting higher than 600F (the limit of the mods). So we lie and tell the mod it's a Ni element when it's really something with a much lower TCR. That is it changes less per degree C than Ni so it has to heat to a much higher temperature to get enough change (in percentage) to reach limit. We change the scale.
We know that 310F is not hot enough to make vapor, yet those setting work to make vapor. We also know that metal at 310F doesn't glow, yet we see glow. This is not a good time to 'trust your instruments' since we fibbed on the TCR value to use to get it to go hotter than the mod maker ever intended us to go.
An example of this is my current experiments with Ti coils. Using the normal Ti setting on my mod I get nowhere, even asking for 600F. Just not hot enough. But, using a custom TCR number of 550 I get normal type vapor calling for 389F (indicated). If I wanted it to display say 300F instead, I'd just enter a larger TCR number so I'd get the same real temperature in the element. 70 to 390 is a 320 degree rise, if I wanted to do that at an indicated 300F (230 rise) I'd need a TCR that was (320/230) times bigger. Something like 760 for an m value that 'works' at 300F.
Remember, TCR is a number with '% change per degree C' roots. It's really in PPM (Parts Per Million) in the textbooks (10,000 counts to the percent), but to save display space mod m values are in 'tens of PPM' (ten to the minus 5). So my 550 (5500 PPM) value means .55% per degree C. From 20 to 200C is 180 degrees. Times .55% per degree C (the 'degrees C part cancels) we get 99% rise? Which squares with the observation that the resistance changes from .13 to .26 Ohms as it heats. The mod multiplies the temperature rise (in C) and the TCR value and heats until it sees the resistance go up that amount.
OF
PPN
Volute of Vapor
Finally pressed some rosin to test my QQ last version, set it at 470°F in Ni mode and using a 45w power (fully charged VTC4), I choose this settings based on the last @OF post. From a cold start it seems to take a while to heat but I noticed the load was already producing good vapor in the 250-300°F range after 8-9s so I took a hit pressing the button some seconds more... I got a very big cloud but it was a bit too harsh and I coughed a lot, while already hot the unit was heating faster but doesn't seems to hit the target (protection) even if i got good vapor, I lowered the temp to 430°F , don't know if this is the reason, or cause the terpène rush was already done, but the subsequents hits(3) was smoother although the Evic doesn't seems to hit the protection mode again so it's like if i was using it in power mode isn't it?
Will work on the perfect settings... for me at least.... but I need to get something where I can find all the settings for all the devices I use cause I begin to be confused.... although the Evic doesn't helps me at all cause sometimes there is drastic changes to do (idk why but my Iheat was working well at tcr 280/470°F and, one day, it was charring at this temp and I need to lowered it to 290°F to get the temp I want!?!).
Although my session in temperature control mode was a great success and I get clouds, taste, efficiency and medication, perfect!
Will work on the perfect settings... for me at least.... but I need to get something where I can find all the settings for all the devices I use cause I begin to be confused.... although the Evic doesn't helps me at all cause sometimes there is drastic changes to do (idk why but my Iheat was working well at tcr 280/470°F and, one day, it was charring at this temp and I need to lowered it to 290°F to get the temp I want!?!).
Although my session in temperature control mode was a great success and I get clouds, taste, efficiency and medication, perfect!
OF
Well-Known Member
Great you're getting it going, but I don't follow......what setting did I ever suggest here that was higher than 430????
If you're using Matt's original settings with the rod heaters (Ni mode, 55 Watts, 310F? That is, I hope you didn't 'grab' the second 'formula' (m=550, and 390F) which is intended for use with hand wound 24 AWG Ti wire.......
Glad you're finding happiness but I really don't recall ever recommending a setting over 400F????
Regards to all.
OF
settings have been hard to figure on the qq for many, i think i should make a chart for customers preferred settings and maybe do a safe range for each mod, voopoo drag, DNA, eleaf, people using artic fox software, smok, and whatever other mods are out there,
right now on the pico i am having perfect sessions at tcr 300 using 50w to get to 500°f pulsing the button after the initial ten seconds according to feel. i like to see it boiling before i take my hit.
right now on the pico i am having perfect sessions at tcr 300 using 50w to get to 500°f pulsing the button after the initial ten seconds according to feel. i like to see it boiling before i take my hit.
mixchu69
Well-Known Member
Hi Matt,
When will the new QQ's be out for sale? (was unable to purchase version 1)
aka DaBigKahuna
Well-Known Member
mix emaik him at matt@ineedhemp.com
I got a V2 QQ last week, Matt had a limited nunber for sale and will prob see the email before a post question.
So far the v2 is workng out great here. Resistance has been slowly creeping up.
the quests are bACK IN full stock
OF
Well-Known Member
You know I was wondering why the sun seemed a bit brighter than normal, and all those birds were singing so loud. Now I know why.
Good news for sure.
FWIW, I'm really having a lot of fun (and getting some good results) with hand wound Ti coils. Easy to wind (I did my first ones around a toothpick) and fun to use.
They heat very fast (a couple seconds to limit) and get vapor going faster (in side by side tests) and are fun/festive to use in that they glow fairly brightly. And cheap, a 25 foot coil (good for 50 or more heaters) was under ten bucks. Be sure you get annealed (softer/easier to wind), 24 AWG.
Best weekend wishes to all.
OF
Does anyone know if the DC Gen 2 18mm glass adapter would work with a J hook? Maybe @divinetribe can shed some insight?