Divine Tribe atty's

[OF]

Ive been doing some heavy testing of the V3...... Spectacular results!!!

I was counting on you to 'take one for the team'........and once again you didn't disappoint......

"Spectacular results" sums it up in two words all right. High praise indeed from a guy who knows, thanks. If there were any doubters left they should right now be holding the CC in one hand filling out that order with the other. The longer you hold off, the longer you're denying yourself rides on the best train going.

the white ceramic of the DT and the white Pico look sexy together.

This is not really that kind of Forum.....but I agree, the white Pico looks good under the white V3. You should see the black one under the black V3, pretty sinister IMO. There are two black Picos, I just got an 'all black' one, no chrome, only silver is the 3 screws.

OF

 

[whatavape]

I'm still dreaming of magnets or orings

I like this idea, but then we would need a solid piece for the mouthpiece, since there would be less resistance from magnets than from the current orings... I am going to drill out the screw holes on one of my v3's and attach magnets to the broken base I have to test it out, but I will have to use a bonding agent (to bond 6 magnets - 3 into housing and 3 into base) so I am weighing my choices first.

That dialing things in is something that I'll have to spend some time on. It is clear to me I am little more than a monkey pushing on a button on the mod hoping something good will happen. I paid a bit extra for the extra power and control of a DNA device but I'm currently using it like an unregulated mod. I think I'm going to have to go to the mod specific forums and spend some effort there. Along with touching all the buttons on the Escribe and otherwise experimenting, I think it will be worth it not only in experiencing the vapes I have now, but also in being able to exploit future vapes. (One reason I got a bigger mod rather than a smaller one. I didn't want to buy just for today, but for what will come.)

My DNA75 device (vt75) took much more effort to get going than my other mods, which were all extremely simple. I just recently got the istick Pico, which is simple with its TCR, and and my Tesla Stealth tc40 and istick tc40w are both used around 300F in TC-Ni mode. They don't have the same chipsets to my knowledge, but must use the same TCR values for Ni (good thing). For my vt75, I did spend quite a while tuning profiles for medium and large donuts and then creating material profiles. The devices can hold 8 materials but that includes TCR values, so you are a bit limited and need a nice long micro USB cable (10ft is what I use) so that you can vape while tethered to your computer for testing purposes. There is a lot of uploading and reuploading slight changes to the settings, since a lot of the settings are only programmable via escribe. I'm happy to send any of my files (materials, profiles, screens, etc) to you, or anyone, who would like a jump start in the process. But I'd like to warn that they will likely need tweaking for your mods and your various oils.

Happy day after thanksgiving everyone!




If you buy yourself a cubis pro mini tank and the co2 oil to fill it with, I can make you the donut-coil-head for it and send it to you. I've decided to make another tank for myself, and I'll be filling it with a 4:1 CBD/THC co2 oil. I'm gonna make an extra coil head for our Divine Tribe leader too, since he asked me to make one for him to try out himself.

Maybe it can be the seed for a new ceramic coil head product for tanks and optimized for co2 / holy water with different shape ceramic heater coils inside?

I've been vaping various strains of CBD-heavy concentrates on these 2 evics for a while now, (back to v2.5 days, these were my last to convert to v3) and they've served me admirably in that role. But I get too lazy and don't always reload them after use, which leaves me needing to re-load them before more use later, which is annoying when I desire instant-CBD relief. The co2 tank will plug that gap perfectly, I hope.

I try to sort my mods' use by color, somewhat, and I think of medical dispensary signs and logos, using green and white often times, for my medical usages. So that's what made me go white and blue-green (cyan?) here, and I got one of these new ballsack-crinkled blue evic basic + cubis mini kits OTW for the new project.

Let me know if you really want that coil head, I'll be busy in the garage this weekend drilling a bunch of holes in the metal casings as the first step.



Also...I tried fernand's idea for the protecting the donut lead wires in the posts with extra pieces of cut wire or cord. I had a spool of 24 gauge copper speaker wire lying around, so I removed the insulation and chopped it into tiny pieces that fit flush in the post. 4 short pieces of wire in 1 post makes the medium donut wire sit snug, and I tightened the screw on the post super-tight now. I hope I'm not crushing the donut wire still, but everything seems to be working fine with the extra wires!

I will eventually add copper wires to my dozen other v3 terminal posts that I'm using when I take the cups out to clean...that will take a while Good tip fern

I'm using 2 strands of 22ga SOLID wire, which provide a buffer between the screw and my leads. I put the lead furthest from the screw, directly opposite, with the 2 strands of wire in between. This is absolutely necessary in my vt75, and I suspect will also be necessary for other DNA devices since they are so finicky and this helps stabilize the resistance.

Can't go wrong with a genuine joyetech mod. I'm using like 14? of them and I find them pretty reliable and accurate enough with the TC, a little more so than the few eleafs I have.

The DNA mods are tempting but I'm hesistant to jump in there. I've never tried one, but clearly, there's tons of stuff you can do with the escribe software that you can't do with joyetech firmware. Much of that stuff is cosmetic, but from what @whatavape has posted, it seems there is some performance benefit to be gained by fine-tuning your DT donuts with a custom profile. But how much benefit, can you really notice it, is it worth the extra cost and effort and size, over a well tuned evic? Subjective questions, but maybe whatavape can throw in his since he's used a variety of TC mods and chipsets with DT donuts.

I'm hesitant because if I did get a DNA75 mod and set it up well and found it to be that much better, I'd then be tempted to replace my whole collection with DNA mods But to give the joyetech's and eleaf's a fighting chance, there's a variety of hacked, 3rd party firmwares that you can download & use, maybe you can gain some of the features that escribe gives you, but I haven't jumped into that rabbithole either (yet?)

Unfortunately I don't own any joyetech mods (or any with YiHi chips), but I think, for easy use, and for your "first" vape to use with the v3, I wouldn't suggest a DNA device. There is a LOT of effort to get things working right, they are way more sensitive to stable resistances, and even then they often kick out of TC (less often with the wire strand mod suggested by fern - but I use 2 strands of solid 22ga silver wire). When I need immediate medication, I do not reach for the vt75 - I often reach for my eleaf istick tc40, since I can just turn it on and go. The vt75 usually requires a longer initial load, and I use it less often so it is often clean. I often have muscle spasms and pinching pains in my spine, so I need to be able to easily medicate, which would work sometimes with my vt75 but not always, thus I avoid it in these cases. If this doesn't bother you, maybe a DNA device is a good idea. When I get my vt75 going, it hits MUCH better than the other devices, and much more consistently. I get 3-4 hits out of a load of the same size that would usually produce 2-3 hits on the other devices. I'd be happy to talk more about my mods, but I definitely haven't tested enough to say which is best - I can only offer advice on which is best applied to a certain situation from the devices I own. For quick medication, I go to my Tesla or istick tc40, and for a longer session (before bed) I use the vt75 on most days. The tesla is my travel buddy, and that one is exclusive.

The V3 sits in the Telsa Stealth? That looks sick! Any draw backs? I'm thinking of picking up that Telsa if the V3 works well in it.

See above, for my thoughts on this. I do love my Tesla, but the vapor production is better from my vt75. I use the Tesla in Tc-Ni @ 300F with a medium donut, and this gives good vapor every time. I do lock resistance, since these attys are not inherently stable, and this does help a bit, as I never have any misfires, or "check atomizer" notices.

Edit: @Volteric I don't think I mentioned which Tesla Stealth it is - I use the tc40 model, not the plain Stealth or Stealth Mini. The tc40 is newer and harder to come by. Also, I'm curious if there's a difference between copper stranded and silver solid wire in the post holes...

 

[mixchu69]

I was counting on you to 'take one for the team'........and once again you didn't disappoint......

"Spectacular results" sums it up in two words all right. High praise indeed from a guy who knows, thanks. If there were any doubters left they should right now be holding the CC in one hand filling out that order with the other. The longer you hold off, the longer you're denying yourself rides on the best train going.



This is not really that kind of Forum.....but I agree, the white Pico looks good under the white V3. You should see the black one under the black V3, pretty sinister IMO. There are two black Picos, I just got an 'all black' one, no chrome, only silver is the 3 screws.

OF

Got my CC and placed my order.

 

[OF]

Portable Vaporizers

Got my CC and placed my order.

I predict you will be rewarded, and very soon.......

You'll thank yourself.

OF

 

[Steven]

Idk about everyone else but I clearly notice significantly decreased airflow in the newer cups with raised air holes. The air holes are the same height as the spacers in the cup, meaning the donut practically rests on the air hole. Airflow is a huge priority of mines and the new cups have taken the airflow back to the v1 days.

Thus I reverted back to using the old large cups and donuts. To better manage leakage through the larger lead holes, I jamm some trimmed donut lead wires into the lead holes after the donut is in the cup. Apparently 2 donut lead wires fit perfectly in the old cup lead holes. Now I basically have a cup with small lead holes and lower air hole...so much better now

 

[Cool Chicky]

Is there a discount code for Divine Tribe?

 

[fernand]

As far as I know these HOT links below are it.
But Matt's a cool guy, if you explain your needs
and capabilities, he'll likely work with you.


Dry Herb DC Atomizer w/510 Threads $24


VERSION 3 FC DISCOUNT $24.20

 

[looney2nz]

As far as I know these HOT links below are it.
But Matt's a cool guy, if you explain your needs
and capabilities, he'll likely work with you.


Dry Herb DC Atomizer w/510 Threads $24


VERSION 3 FC DISCOUNT $24.20

if it's not on the site, send him a note (info@ineedhemp.com) and he'll reply.

 

[Bad Ocelot]

Been busy & haven't had much time to post but been putting the v3 through its paces & I dare say it's the best concentrate atomizer I've tried. I have both a white & black version, with the original large donuts & the revised medium cup. The revised medium cup has it's pro's & con's but overall works pretty well. As many have mentioned the airflow holes become clogged more easily but this can be largely avoided by doing cool down hits. The lip on the rim does help prevent seepage though. The large OG cup will be coated with a thin layer of wax after a week or so of use, but not so with the revised medium version, so they're definitely onto something there. Still a little fine tuning to do, but definitely strong work by Matt & the gang.

I think some of the large donuts that came with my black v3 might be the higher resistance ones, but I haven't used any of those yet. As with all Divine Tribe products these are extremely durable, haven't blown or cracked a donut yet. Hell, now that I think about it all my v2.x's still work too, ha. I have chipped the base of the white v3 near one of the screw holes, but that might've been my fault for over-tightening.

Settings wise I'm more or less using the v2.x settings for the medium donuts (resistance hovers around 0.7Ω): TCR 245, ~16.5w, 390-400F. For the large, low resistance donuts (~0.5Ω) I'm still tinkering, but currently using TCR 240, 27.5w, 380-420F. Gradually inching down the TCR value so I hit temp protection more quickly, but with the massive airflow on the OG cups it's easy to cool it down considerably just by taking a big hit.

I know there's been some talk about the utility of TC if you usually don't hit temp protect, and I think that if you're not hitting temp protect you aren't using the device at the most optimum settings but it's still good in that it makes it kind of idiot proof (especially when handing to one of the uninitiated). I'm also pretty sure the TC settings affect ramp up speed as well as feather the power when the resistance change indicates you've hit the desired temp, which is good for our purposes. Plus on some mods you get a real time display of the calculated temp which doesn't happen in wattage mode.

I like the looks of the hydratube adapters DT are working on. That'll definitely take things to the next level. Looking forward to it!

 

[Tranquility]

While not DT (Am still working learning on the V3. The taste on the doughnuts is wonderful.), it seems here is the best chance to get an answer. I have a question about the black ceramic wax coils for the Saionara. I just got a box of 5 that were shipped at the end of November. My understanding is they were to be stainless steel wrapped and able to use temp control. However, in the lesser forum of a sub-reddit, 'twas written there was an error from HVT's supplier in that the ceramic was wrapped in Kanthal and not Stainless.

Do we know if HVT is still shipping the Kanthal black coils or if they have switched to the stainless?

What would be a good way to test to see? Could I just try to go temp control as steel and see what happens? Would there be a risk of coil failure?

 

[waxdab23]

While not DT (Am still working learning on the V3. The taste on the doughnuts is wonderful.), it seems here is the best chance to get an answer. I have a question about the black ceramic wax coils for the Saionara. I just got a box of 5 that were shipped at the end of November. My understanding is they were to be stainless steel wrapped and able to use temp control. However, in the lesser forum of a sub-reddit, 'twas written there was an error from HVT's supplier in that the ceramic was wrapped in Kanthal and not Stainless.

Do we know if HVT is still shipping the Kanthal black coils or if they have switched to the stainless?

What would be a good way to test to see? Could I just try to go temp control as steel and see what happens? Would there be a risk of coil failure?

You should just ask Vic @ HVT which version you were sent. He's aware of the issue and I believe is sending out replacements if you paid for the black ceramic/ss but received black ceramic/Kanthal.

 

[Volteric]

Dumb question: I'm new to the V3. Does the bigger size mean I can put more concentrate in than the 2.7? Do I drop the concentrate ball into the center hole or try to get it around the ring?

 

[Tranquility]

Dumb question: I'm new to the V3. Does the bigger size mean I can put more concentrate in than the 2.7? Do I drop the concentrate ball into the center hole or try to get it around the ring?

My understanding (As approved by experimentation.) is you should put the concentrate on the doughnut itself. Some of the more knowledgeable posters here have described a painting technique where the dab is placed on a doughnut and then only enough watts to melt and not vape the dab is put through. Take your tool and "paint" the ceramic of the doughnut itself before you take a regular-power draw.

 

[Volteric]

My understanding (As approved by experimentation.) is you should put the concentrate on the doughnut itself. Some of the more knowledgeable posters here have described a painting technique where the dab is placed on a doughnut and then only enough watts to melt and not vape the dab is put through. Take your tool and "paint" the ceramic of the doughnut itself before you take a regular-power draw.

I tried rolling the bb size into a an arced grain of rice and placed it on the donut, warmed and allowed to melt over the surface. That seemed to work swell. Am I trying to keep it from melting into the center hole? I'm still trying to figure if because it's bigger if I can use much more than the 2.7?

 

[looney2nz]

I tried rolling the bb size into a an arced grain of rice and placed it on the donut, warmed and allowed to melt over the surface. That seemed to work swell. Am I trying to keep it from melting into the center hole? I'm still trying to figure if because it's bigger if I can use much more than the 2.7?

Predicated on what form of concentrate is in use, I find a way to 'paint' the donut (which is thankfully MUCH easier in the v3!), with CO2 oil, it's easy, I can use the syringe to apply it directly... with wax, butter or shatter... I try and stick to the curved end of the tool that's included with the unit and then heat the donut a bit and paint the donut with the concentrate that's stuck to the back of the tool. Both approaches seems to work pretty well.

 

[Steven]

So I think I'm fully converted to using tcr without letting the mod hit temp protection too early. (I'm prepared to hear all the backlash and reasons not to). I thoroughly enjoyed letting the mod hit temp protection pretty early on the v2.5, but not so much on the v3 for some reason.

On the v3, whenever I use a tcr and settings that lets the mod hit temp protection pretty early, my Hydratubes clearly shows no milking of any vape whatsoever after 20-30 seconds. This wasn't so on the v2.5. I also found when I pre melt my wax, the settings that let the mod go temp protection early is often times too hot. Also when I experiment on letting the temp protection hit during the beginning, middle or towards the end of my hit, I notice milking stops once temp protection hits.

So what I do is set a really high tcr. I find the sweet spot for me that hits temp protection is at the last 10 seconds of my hit or so. Everyone will be different since everyone's draw time is different.

Yes, this isn't fully utilizing tcr, but I disagree with others saying it's the same as wattage mode because it clearly isn't. For example I can use tcr 325, 21w at 420F on the new large squiggly donuts at 0.62 ohms and it takes a while of continuous power to even start to barely glow it it will not glow anymore than faintly once it glows. This is a mighty coincidence because I used to judge good settings on the v1 days with limited mods that a barely glowing donut performs best for me. 21w in wattage mode will cherry that donut within the second power cycle. Tcr will at least let you lock your resistance and cap your max temp in a way

I like big milky hits that still doesn't taste burned so I actually have gone back to the large v3 and boy am I loving it. After modding the lead holes in the old cups, these large v3, leak less and can go way longer without cleaning compared to the medium v3 Ime. I can load a small amount and still get massive vapor at these settings. Also, you can choose to load small, like a v2.5 load and clear it all in one hit, leaving no reclaim to leak or collect, yet still produce massive vapor. So it's official for me. Large squiggly donuts tcr 325, 21w at 420F. Large regular donuts tcr 300,21w at 420F. Probably way hotter than most but this is what I like I found comparable to my v2.5 experience. I'm getting much more medicated per hit and need less hits overall now.

 

[fiveskin]

First post love the forum. Great info! New to herb vaping but not vaping. I'm from MA so I'll get to try waxes/concentrates eventually.

Picked up the Dry Herb tank and an Aspire NX75-z. It has TCR but I'm new to TC mods. I'm a 1.8ohm MTL flavorless liquid replicate a ciggy guy so I never needed or wanted advanced mods. Cool Fire 4/MVP 3.0/MVP 20w and an Aspire Nova-s 3.5ml have been my rig for a loooooooong time.

Any advice is greatly appreciated but I think you've all laid out enough info for me to get started/experiment. Can't wait! I took 2 days off work just so I could learn/play with it!

I almost bought a Flowermate V5.0x but I don't like not being able to swap out the batteries. I know the Air has that option but that was a bit expensive for my first go.

Anyways I'll post how it went with the Aspire NX75 since I haven't seen that one mentioned yet.

 

[OF]

So I've just experimentally proven it's possible to blow up a medium V3 doughnut with 17 Watts. I just did it cleaning mine. I got carried away trying to get the last bit of black off one of the cold spots. 20 seconds (two back to back 10 second 'sessions') gave me an increased resistance (.94 Ohms from .72) and uneven heating as a result. I don't recommend doing this.

By random chance I decided to take a picture of the new one loaded for the first time with what I'm finding is 'just the right loading':

I did this very easily with my SS tool (at the top):

This tool makes it very easy to 'paint' the bead on the top by heating the doughnut a bit and using that heat to melt more concentrate from the tool as needed.

OF

 

[fernand]

The tool-making primates strike again! @OF that looks DOPE! That's to donut'n wax as a butter knife is to pita bread and humus. As to that wattage issue, methinks gettin' the TCR dialed in first, and running in TC mode always below red line is safest. I don't think these donuts are exactly mil-spec rugged. I wonder what they were made for originally.

@Vape Donkey 650 is in a special category, hi-wattage mode allowed, he's got so many vape devices that losing a donut's just a better reason to get some more! I grieve for all those grams of CO2 oil ... Me, I gotta nurse the budget now, I've been building a dual CPU 12 core monster computer.

 

[divinetribe]

What temp and wattage have you found spectacular results?

for the large donut Ni mode using 33w to get to 260°f - 360°f depending on the ohm of donut your received. medium donut use 25w

here is a email from a guy named frank...

New V3 instructions

Not trying to ask stupid questions but can you give me a little extra help with this? Are you saying to adjust the wattage up to 33 W and then adjust the temperature to between 260 and 370° to get best results ? I will watch the video and thanks again really nice vaporizer :-)

Hey frank

I am learning new things to, so no question is stupid,, I don't mind at all helping.. yes by only allowing a certain amount of watts to reach that temp you are protecting the donut in my opinion. most batteries are very high wattage these donuts do not need more than 30w to get started and it pulses from 10w-20w to keep temp from my observations..
keeping track of the ohms of the donut when the unit is cold is a way to make sure you have a consistent experience, if it stays the same number you should have good results. when the ohms change the unit needs to be cleaned or the donut has been compromised ,
please go up in temp mode and see if that gives better hits..
thanks


WE got the hydratubes made shorter the should be available in 10 days

 

[Cool Chicky]

What is a decent battery charger for the 18650?

 

[Adobewan]

What is a decent Battery charger for the 18650?

Nitecore Intellicharger 14
https://www.google.com/search?q=nit...e=UTF-8#q=nitecore+intellicharger+14&tbm=shop

 

[fernand]

I know the Nitecore is a very popular charger line, but I have switched to the Xtar VC2 and VC4 because it seems to automatically charge as well as any high quality charger, BUT it also shows you exact voltage on the battery, and how many mAH have been pumped into it so far.

This lets you track the condition of batteries. If you discharge a battery down to say 3.5v, when it's charged it might show 4.2 volts and you can also see that the expected 2200 mAh were pumped back in. Or it might show only 1400 mAh, or that it only charges up to 4.1 volts, etc.

I have used an older VC4 for several years and it's been my first and only "always works" charger.

Some say - no, let me correct that, in line with current phrasing:
"many people say that you don't need to look at the mAh. Sad."

But I do look at the mAh all the time, like when cows watch trains - I can see by how much the batteries have been misrepresented. Sony Gitchy Goomy XYZ 6000 mAH? NOT. And watch the batteries degrade. Maybe the latest Nitecores have that feature too by now, dunno.

 

[Cool Chicky]

Thank you.

 

[OF]

WE got the hydratubes made shorter the should be available in 10 days

Most cool, the line forms to the rear, guys. I'm down for one of each gender.

I've been enjoying my PNWT on top of V3 with the medium doughnut entirely too much. Very powerful/useful combination. I got so carried away I ordered a full size recycler hydratube I'll probably only use a few times. A PNWT (or FBomb) size bubbler is about the same size as the mod and vape, a WT several times bigger on top is likely to be overkill past all reason. Not to mention something you don't want to be standing up on the deck between hits......

But fun I'm betting.

I'm also on the prowl for a U shaped adapter so small top entry bubblers and the V3 can both remain straight upright. I have to tip my favorite bubbler over to keep my V2.5 upright using the factory adapter (which is maybe 150 degrees, not 180?). The hydratube idea fixes that.

V3 and WTs, not to be missed. More so that V2.5 IMO. V3 is a bit of a pain to load well, and heating to 300 or so before putting the WT on and taking that hit is extra work as well, but both are rewarded big time. I keep coming back anyway, bet you would too if you could?

OF