Divine Tribe atty's

[Vape Donkey 650]

Just some random vape-cetera, for your viewing pleasure...

Latest iteration/configuration of the main supply depot / vape stand of my "Dab Lab"

Extra-meaningless bonus points for identifying the obsolete / unused objects, even though that could be a subjective thing.

And this is my mini indica vape-station that is by my bed-stand. These 2 evics are semi-permanently stationed here, and currently are loaded up with GSC co2 oil and lemon OG kush crumble, respectively, at all times, until that gram is finished and replaced with something similar.

The pinnacle water tool here was just assigned to the red one with co2 oil, replacing that janky little skinny water tool pictured earlier.

Am I spoiling myself?

 

[lomein07]

I got my order the same day as you, Steven. I didn't leave any barbecues, but I've been busy enough the past couple days playing around with this stuff to not post since then, so I suspect I could be diagnosed with whatever "problem" you may have also

Just for size comparison to the old straight-water bubbler which is now promptly retired from service after this pic. The old pipe is about an inch shorter, with no cap, but its inferior performance now renders it obsolete to me.

I use a base with the same dimensions as the base that comes with that slim bubbler (3rd from left in photo). What would I need to be able to use it with that Pinnacle Pro style bubbler?

Thanks

EDIT: added photo below of what I own. Looking to use it with a pinnacle pro style bubbler. Pretty sure the o-ring part has a smaller diameter than the Divine Tribe.

 

[Steven]

@Vape Donkey 650 here are some references of how I hook up the pinnacle pro water tool. If done correctly, everything will fit very tight and snug. I showed you the one with the blue mp to show how much contact is smooshed against the glass.

Here are some more pics of the hydratube setup that should answer your questions too. Although everything fits very tight and snug, the hydratube is a bit top heavy so yes, I do store them separately. It feels just fine to use the unit with one hand. It actually feels better than the pinnacle pro water tool because I don't have to bend my neck or tilt the unit. Gotta love that bent neck. The other hydratube I ordered comes with a stand so I'll be using that with this hydratube to store at home

If you are going g to keep you hydratube fixed there, I suggest using more water to utilize the Recycler more. Just be careful not to tilt too much. Unless it's already being used at that level, idk how the resistance of your draw is with that vape. This is also my first Recycler so just Google purpose of a Recycler rig. There's even a useful thread on fuckcombustion.com on what it is. Read up and see if you agree. Haha, at the very least, it's an awesome splash guard that gives no resistance to the draw. By the way, it recycles water, not vapor.

 

[fernand]

After vaping ~ 50 mg of crystalline (97%+) CBD using a DT 2.7 unit on an eVic set to 12 watts and 360 deg F using a custom M2 setting of 220. I used then promptly lost a little glass "screen" to help hold the powder.

It was a harsh vapor, a water tool would be useful. There were only some general sensations of relaxation, it seemed like larger doses might be helpful for pain, but there is evidence for CBD being far more useful in the presence of the other cannabinoids: http://dx.doi.org/10.4236/pp.2015.62010

Anyway woke up this morning with a sore back of the throat and a peculiar sort of hangover, not very positive.

{later] HEY I found the transparent 6.8 x 0.7 mm little glass "button" next to a nest of USB cables. There was a New Yorker cartoon a few years ago of guys in white coats on hands and knees on the floor, and the caption said "We dropped the super-computer". It was sort of exotic back in 2000 but it seems this has now become more and more of an everyday issue. Oops, dropped my 5/64" Titanium coil, the Nano Arduino slipped under the bookshelf, that medication patch is totally transparent, etc.

 

[StickyShisha2]

A big thanks to Matt @divinetribe for super fast shipping, as usual.

now who is going to talk me through the TC modes on my new Eleaf iStick TC100W?

 

[OF]

now who is going to talk me through the TC modes on my new Eleaf iStick TC100W?

I'll have a lash, but I'm more used to the similar (but different in key areas) programming for the Pico......I might lie to you along the way......

Basically you want to set it up so it runs in TC mode using a custom value for the calibration. A so called "M value" of 245 or so. We also want to limit the maximum power to 12 Watts or so, 100 Watts will send it into orbit before you.

I'd start out by loading the M values (the hardest part IMO). First off, in case you don't know, five quick presses on the fire button turns the unit on and off again. When it's off (really a standby, it's still using a small bit of power waiting for you to gently wake it to make vapor) hold the fire and up button down together for five seconds or so. The 3 spots in the M table should pop up with M1 first. Pushing the fire button quickly selects this memory or you can use the up and down keys to select M2 or M3 instead. Once selected load the value you want in with the up and down keys and confirm it with another press of the fire button. FWIW I load 255 in M1, 245 in M2 and 235 in M3 so I can easily 'bump it up or down a bit' more easily and not change the displayed temperature.

Once the table is loaded you can turn it back on (five presses) and use the bottom button (mode) to select M2. Every time you hold the bottom button down for 3 seconds or so it steps to the next mode. Back in 'ready mode' (on and standing by) use the up and down keys to select a temperature, 390F recommended. To get to F run to the end of the C range, stop, then start again. That should get you started, tweak the temperature if you want. Then set the maximum power to 12 Watts by pressing the menu (bottom) button and the up or down button at the same time.

The display should now say 390F, M2, 0.00 Ohms (no atty yet) and 12W. Pressing the fire button should flash 'no atomizer'. We're ready to go.

Screw on a DT atty. The display should change to something like 0.72 Ohms. Tap the fire button quickly a time or two to be sure the reading is stable. Let it cool again for half a minute or so so it's dead cold (room temperature) then press fire and up together. It should not fire but in two seconds or so the Ohms symbol should change to a lock. It should now read something like '0.72 lock'. This stores the exact value of that atty away so it can accurately do TC. If you don't lock in the cold resistance reading it can drift up over time and the atty will get cooler and stop making vapor as well.

In the end, expect a battery icon on the right with '0.72 lock' over 12W with a big 390 followed by M2 over F. Pressing the fire button should make the 390F jump to 70F then quickly ramp up to 390F followed by 'protection'

If all is well, time to load up. Start with say .05 grams, a 'paper match head' size blob. Don't let it get up to the vent holes in the side of the bowl, if the oil ever gets through the hole it drops down and is lost.

You'll notice with a load it ramps up in temperature more slowly (it's heating the oil/wax and making vapor now.....), I find I can use that as a rough gauge of the load. When it ramps up fast, it's time to think about more concentrate.

The important parts are the M2/245/390F combination that limits maximum temperatures (you need all 3 for protection) and the 12 Watts power limit. That's not enough power to get it hot enough to burn up on you. In fact, as the doughnut ages you might even have to raise it a bit, I've got an 'old soldier' here that seems to need 12.5 Watts these days.

BTW, there's a useful hidden function that displays actual battery voltage. When shut off, hold the fire and down button for several seconds, the display lights up with 'battery X.XX V.'. Also, BTW, this is a pretty unique mod in that for the lower powers we need one 18650 in the battery. I've carried more stash in one side of mine (either side is fine), a single charged 18650 is plenty to vape off more concentrate than I can use......

There's also a fun 'software version check'. If you press (again from off) the fire button like 20 times (just keep going, ignore the display coming on and changing) it finally comes up 'version 1.00' (or it had better.....), that will change with upgrades of course. Press the fire button again to return to standby.

So now you know as much as anyone around here........

Regards to all,

OF

 

[fernand]

@Vape Donkey 650 your bedside rig has the perfect solution for stability, just keep it in a stand of some sort ;-)

 

[Vape Donkey 650]

Hay guize....

I always love the technical / accessories / tangential aspects to this thread...but maybe I can take us in an aesthetic direction as well?

Dare I propose something new . . . . ? ? ?

r@unchy d0nut c01L pr0n!

Show me how you load up your donuts! Seeing a clean ceramic donut loaded up arouses me in a way nothing else can...mmm... donut.... Here's a few from last week

This was some super silver haze crumble on the little artery nugget mod before I stopped using it, after I did a little pre-melt. The distribution/spread and melt of the crumble here, is, as they say in street fighter...

But fear not, this coil has found a new home on a stainless cuboid mini. Next, some "pot o' gold" shatter-in-a-syringe. I really like this concentrate, I had never seen BHO in a tube before, and I was suprised how nice and tasty it is, and how with the texture of this stuff, it's easily dispensed from the syringe. No apparent need to pre-melt. This is on my silver pico, but this particular atty has been re-assigned to a gold cuboid mini.

And now, on my rose-gold evic VTC, some durban poison crumble. This time I remember to take a before and after: scattered pebbles

Now, evenly melted crumbles.

what do u guys think...air bubble or butane bubble?

and another

Again....

And finally, some berry white crumble on the copper nugget mod. I had a couple bowls on a previously clean donut before this one, and you can see the marks. It was for these harsh markings that I respectfully retired these little underdog mods.

Tried to do a little pre-melt here...

Didn't have much effect. This mod is a bit brutal and slow with the wattages.

 

[Vape Donkey 650]

And by the way, I got the idea about pre-melting from way back long ago when I was ghosting this thread. It makes a YOOGE difference in the first-hit performance after a reload when using crumbles / honeycombs. Don't let your loose, unvaped, unsticky-unbound pebbles fly into the mouthpiece or your glass. It's less necessary with shatter, counter-productive with co2 oil.

I don't remember who came up with that idea first, or if several people came upon that indenpently from each other... but that person is a GENIUS ! ! ! ty

I use a base with the same dimensions as the base that comes with that slim bubbler (3rd from left in photo). What would I need to be able to use it with that Pinnacle Pro style bubbler?

Thanks

EDIT: added photo below of what I own. Looking to use it with a pinnacle pro style bubbler. Pretty sure the o-ring part has a smaller diameter than the Divine Tribe.

The diameter of what you're showing there is certainly less than the DT. Looks like a standard glass-globe micro-skillet style with the little metal bases that you probably have to use an ego-style adapter to get the 510 threads to stick out and use with a box mod with flush-recessed 510 connector pin

That would be a challenge to connect that to the pinnacle. Those atomizers being longer and skinnier wouldn't sit securely in the tapered 14mm joint of the pinnacle tool. You could probably rig it up some how with O-rings and silicon strips maybe, but it probably wouldn't be a secure connection, (floppy) and one that you can "snap on / snap off" easily.

Why don't you take a look at this?
https://wevape-vaporizers.com/shop/atomizers/aquamizer-vape-pen-bubbler-attachment/
It's the aquamizer bubbler, which is a direct-fit for your kind of atomizer. I don't know if you're using a ceramic disc in there with TC, or just combusting some nice oil with those horrible little +ohm rod+coil types, or something even worse, I'm not a fan of them for a lack of airflow and temp control, respectively. But if you're dead-set on using that type of atomizer/base, this bubbler is the best for it, IMO.

You can also get cheap equivalents and copies at dhgate and elsewhere, but I wouldn't necessarily vouch for them firsthand, and the quality of these aquamizers is top notch, and they appear to have a nice sale going on now to counteract their higher price.

I was using this and the pinnacle back-to-back last night, and although the pinnacle is nice, I think I still prefer the aquamizer. It does require the plastic tube/hose connector to adapt to the DT base, (we're still working on a solution for that material) but it allows me to go topless (no cap or mouthpiece) and the percolation is nearly as good even though the airflow is a little less. I think I can more easily modulate a small/medium hit with the aqua, but still draw a huge puff if I want. And I don't have to raise the temp. But maybe I just need more practice with the pinnacle? IDK?

And if you were thinking about going with that place's patriot atomizers....I'd pass on those too Ask if you wanna know why

@Vape Donkey 650 here are some references of how I hook up the pinnacle pro water tool. If done correctly, everything will fit very tight and snug. I showed you the one with the blue mp to show how much contact is smooshed against the glass.

Here are some more pics of the hydratube setup that should answer your questions too. Although everything fits very tight and snug, the hydratube is a bit top heavy so yes, I do store them separately. It feels just fine to use the unit with one hand. It actually feels better than the pinnacle pro water tool because I don't have to bend my neck or tilt the unit. Gotta love that bent neck. The other hydratube I ordered comes with a stand so I'll be using that with this hydratube to store at home

Thanks for the pics again. I think you managed to pull the silicon part farther down the 2.5 cap than I did, but it looks like I got the cap inserted as far into the 14mm joint on the pinnacle tool as you do (the cap and glass almost touch, but don't?) so I think I'm good. I'm thinking if it would benefit the connection to cut/trim a little off the top or bottom of the silicon atmos part. Probably not? I doesn't feel like it's restricting airflow or can get much tighter.

As for the recycler thing, I read a couple places that the main purpose is to make the smoke/vapor smoother, (smoother draw or vape idk?) and secondly to act as a supplementary splash guard with the water recycling. And that recyclers are a relatively new feature in glass designs too? IDK how the recycler is making the vape/draw smooth, but it sure as hell is doing its job!

Could you post a link to that other glass bubbler with the 18mm base that goes with it? I probably won't get that bubbler as well... I'm trying to keep my collection from blowing up outta control here haha but the base would be quite useful to me, just like you were saying.

I still need to get some of those larger silicon mouthpieces to adapt this hydratube to a DT, but just on the side, I was looking at some threads here on cheap glass, open source glass, etc.... I'm realizing we are barely dippping our toes into the world of glass! As far as cost, complexity, quality, functionality...we's some newbs over on this thread! But I'm always on the lookout for innovative and functional ways to adapt the DT base to bubblers and rigs of all types since it seems like it will continue to be the only device I want to vape concentrates on for the forseeable future....

I also got a couple new ideas and methods to connect DT 2.5 to our hydratubes, or just about any universal joint remotely. I got a couples pieces in the mail OTW to me...ill keep u guys tuned.

After vaping ~ 50 mg of crystalline (97%+) CBD using a DT 2.7 unit on an eVic set to 12 watts and 360 deg F using a custom M2 setting of 220. I used then promptly lost a little glass "screen" to help hold the powder.

It was a harsh vapor, a water tool would be useful. There were only some general sensations of relaxation, it seemed like larger doses might be helpful for pain, but there is evidence for CBD being far more useful in the presence of the other cannabinoids: http://dx.doi.org/10.4236/pp.2015.62010

Anyway woke up this morning with a sore back of the throat and a peculiar sort of hangover, not very positive.

Dayum...that doesn't seem pleasant. Water probably woulda helped for sure, but personally, I've always been a bit skeptical of those super-pure crystalline concentrates. Something about it just doesn't seem right. It must be caused by the lack of any terpenes or minor cannabinoids, as you mentioned there. Maybe you should try mixing just a little of that stuff with another concentrate you have? I'd encourage you to try a nice co2 oil or shatter of a CBD rich strain also, could be better for whatever you want to use it for?

And for the TCR and setting stuff... i wanna get back to that... BUT FIRST...

{later] HEY I found the transparent 6.8 x 0.7 mm little glass "button" next to a nest of USB cables. There was a New Yorker cartoon a few years ago of guys in white coats on hands and knees on the floor, and the caption said "We dropped the super-computer". It was sort of exotic back in 2000 but it seems this has now become more and more of an everyday issue. Oops, dropped my 5/64" Titanium coil, the Nano Arduino slipped under the bookshelf, that medication patch is totally transparent, etc.

lol wut bro? Is that the harsh CBD talkin' there?

@Vape Donkey 650 your bedside rig has the perfect solution for stability, just keep it in a stand of some sort ;-)

Now you know I bought that little desk lamp specifically for those square slots to hold a couple mods right? You can even stuff 2 huge cuboids into the slots. I don't want to put the hydratube in that lamp/stand since it would still be pretty tall, it could touch the lamp part, and still possibly fall over and break...there is a little wiggle room for an evic VTC to fall over to a 45* tilt in those slots but not fall all the way over if bumped modestly...

It's actually a decent little lamp, I would recommend it to u guys to hold a mod or 2 on your desk or night stand. It's pretty cheap too, I'll try a link to amazon here, but it has the item name if the link doesnt work

Boston Harbor TL-TB-061CO-3L Flex Table Lamp

 

[Vape Donkey 650]

Apologies, moderators, for the back-to-back's, but my posts are unbearably long and over 10k characters, even with my trimming of quoted content...

NOW... TCR!

Basically you want to set it up so it runs in TC mode using a custom value for the calibration. A so called "M value" of 245 or so. We also want to limit the maximum power to 12 Watts or so, 100 Watts will send it into orbit before you.

The important parts are the M2/245/390F combination that limits maximum temperatures (you need all 3 for protection) and the 12 Watts power limit. That's not enough power to get it hot enough to burn up on you. In fact, as the doughnut ages you might even have to raise it a bit, I've got an 'old soldier' here that seems to need 12.5 Watts these days.

Great detailed primer to eleaf mods on the DT, that's why we luv u, OF But I actually wanna ask you about the TCR numbers. I know several pages back you and fernand exchanged your ideas and methods on finding the best TCR value for the DT 2.5; I tried to follow you guys on the math...but that's not gonna happen

HOWEVER... you like 245 (so do I) but fernand likes 220 for some reason? If I'm getting this right, a higher TCR number makes your coil get hotter in reality with the same watts/temp setting on your mod? While a lower number would make your coil cooler, right? So why would ferny be burning up his throat with such modest settings on his evic? (besides the CBD material he's vaping perhaps)

Is there a particular base resistance that you used in your calculations and ended up with 245? Is there a different value I should use if I have some bases reading at 0.68 and others at 0.83? (I do have a big range in my fleet)

 

[OF]

Great detailed primer to eleaf mods on the DT, that's why we luv u, OF

HOWEVER... you like 245 (so do I) but fernand likes 220 for some reason? If I'm getting this right, a higher TCR number makes your coil get hotter in reality with the same watts/temp setting on your mod? While a lower number would make your coil cooler, right?

Is there a particular base resistance that you used in your calculations and ended up with 245? Is there a different value I should use if I have some bases reading at 0.68 and others at 0.83? (I do have a big range in my fleet)

You mean it's not my dashing good looks, rapier like wit or the way I treat small animals? I'm crushed. Thanks for the kind words anyway, one of those topics that cries out for a complete response. I hope I didn't miss anything big, SS is good folk, has helped a LOT of newbies along, she deserves no less here?

Think about it this way: The temperature you call for is used to calculate a 'target resistance'. This is the cold temperature plus the number of degrees (rise, 'room temperature' is the start) times the 'percent per degree'. In this case, (here it comes....) algebra says the 'degrees' label in rise and the 'degrees' in 'percent per degree' cancel each other and you end up with a percent total (no degrees). Something like 50%? The unit applies heat (to the 12 Watt limit you set) and monitors the resistance as it increases (due to heat). It stops at that resistance, not an actual temperature. If you use a smaller M number, the calculated resistance target is less, it gets there sooner and is colder. He runs cooler at '390F' than you or I are. If we are really at 390, that's a 320F rise? So he's at 320 * (220/245) for a 287 degree instead, on top of the original 70 he's at 360 or so. I guess he likes it cooler? Fine by me. If he's happy, you and I should at least be happy for him?

No, the exact base resistance of each atty is what you 'lock in'. A calibration if you will. They change some from unit to unit and mod to mod. My impression now is the Pico reads a little lower than the Mini on the same DT? I just got a brand new deep base yesterday, it's reading .92 Ohms cold. Seriously, that 'far off'. But it still performs just like the other DTs I've got around here (it just applies a slightly higher voltage at lower current to reach the 12 Watts I dialed up. It uses that same resistance to do the 'new coil yes/no' thing. If it recognizes the old one because it's in range after you take it off (say to clean or load it) and put it on. If it's outside the expected window it asks.

Notice, if you will, this stuff (like M values, mode to run, base resistance, and so on) is stored in a memory in the mod that is protected from battery failure. Pretty cool, really.

OF

 

[StickyShisha2]

@OF ok, i set the max to the 12.6w i usually use on my tc40w. I set temp to 390F. And I set M1 M2 M3 to 255 245 235.

hold the button and take a long pull. Temp control works well

version 1.00 should i bother trying to figure out how to upgrade?

i like the idea of using one 18650 space for stash. someone needs to make the perfect nonstick container to fit.

anything else i should know?

 

[Steven]

@Vape Donkey 650. Ur pinnacle pro water tool setup is basically the same as mine except for the minor things you mentioned. My cap actually touches or barely touches the bubbler too. Here's a link to that other hydratube.

http://m.dhgate.com/product/high-quality-26cm-tall-glass-bong-mouthpiece/262624940.html#pd-019

Also Glad you found the cheap bubbler thread. It's a pretty useful thread. There's actual dhgate sellers who dedicate their Glassworks based off of comments and requests from the fc forum. That's what I mean when I said there are only a handful of dhgate sellers I would buy from. There's actually only 3 or 4 sellers that I trust off dhgate for glass. Sunshinestore, clean & clear glass, stevenlmz79, and another one I can't recall off the top of my head are all sellers I would buy from again

As for the Recycler topic, people say the vape is smoother because the vapor is in contact with water for longer periods of time, and the water that is in contact is recycled/stirred so it stays fresh and cool. Also, the bubbles are popped closer to the mouth so the vape retains it's flavor and doesn't get stale. I know I'm missing something, but that's mostly what I gathered. I'm already using a neoprene wine bottle sleeve as a carrying case for this hydratube. Can't wait to replace it with the new straight hydratube and use the stand for the Recycler.

 

[fernand]

Wow, the aesthetic side of @Vape Donkey 650 is appreciated too. Seems like the mood lifting, creativity enhancing and all the good thoughts are rising here, matt's done a good thing to the mind with these donut atomizers.

Can you imagine this, there are Chinese glassblowers who have discovered this nest of stoners, and rather than make cocktail glasses for people in Oklahoma, they're actually making these odd custom contraptions for the decadent "American Addicts".

And what is the world coming to? @OF admitted using Algebra today !?

The reason I use 220 is because it got me closer on the dry thermocouple-measured temperature. But I'll revisit the algebra too.

The harshness IMHO was the crystalline CBD itself. Will revisit to confirm, but if the boiling temp is around 350 deg F, hitting the throat with that vapor without the benefit of water cooling (putting up with losses) or just a longer tubing run (with less losses?) can't help but irritate those cells. Plain old steam, coming off boiling at 212 deg F , carries a lot of thermal energy and can burn far worse than the same amount of boiling water, right? So those oils boiling off a donut can surely do some damage. Which is why the topic du jour has drifted into water tools, right?

 

[OF]

And what is the world coming to? @OF admitted using Algebra today !?

Ah that would be yesterday, right. Let's stick to the facts shall we? Folks have enough trouble following what I say as it is..........

Not to worry, folks, it was history. I hope nobody got hurt?

OF

 

[KeroZen]

I was tempted to get the DC atty but we're almost one month past the last update... so we should be getting pretty close to the V3 release right? Any news @divinetribe?

 

[Armerad]

My DC and v2.7 seem to be arriving today! I ordered them on Thursday and was originally assuming a Monday delivery based on the map and then the tracking, but it got bunny-hopped over to my regional USPS distribution center. Arcata/Eureka, CA to LA in two days, excellent!

I'm looking forward to trying the fruits of my new medical cannabis card in both. I will be using a DNA200 Reuleaux device, and an eVic VT.

From what I've read, the legs of the heating element are nickel - does this mean the area that heats the ceramic housing is nickel aswell? I'd like to know what metal (SS, kanthal, titanium, nichrome) it is if not, to set the custom TCR information on my DNA200.

EDIT: What type of concentrate does everyone prefer in their DT ceramic donuts? I picked up a half gram of "Blue Dream/OG - Hybrid - Pineapple" in crumble form from my dispensary. I'm not exactly sure where the pineapple comes into play, as there was another option which was "Blue Dream/OG - Orange"- but I love pineapple so this should treat me nicely.

 

[OF]

From what I've read, the legs of the heating element are nickel - does this mean the area that heats the ceramic housing is nickel aswell? I'd like to know what metal (SS, kanthal, titanium, nichrome) it is if not, to set the custom TCR information on my DNA200.

You are mistaken. It's Nichrome, Matt has told us that's what's used in all his units. But there are lots of alloys (and therefore constants) of Nichrome. With the 2.5 base and the RX200 an 'M value' of 245 seems to work well.

AFAIK no TC mod has been found reliable for the DC, including the RX200, they seem to 'jump back to VW mode without warning. I suspect because the resistance gets 'out of range' when hot?

Good luck with your experiments.

OF

 

[Armerad]

Nichrome, assuming it is Ni80, will not do temperature control (TC). Trying to do it in TC mode should definitely try to push it to VW mode. That's too bad, I was hoping the DC would be capable of delivering a dry herb 510 TC solution.

 

[KeroZen]

Not wanting to hijack the thread, but we're having a lot of fun experimenting with convection attys in both the "BULLI" and "the Project" threads. Both are open source and working alternatives for 510 dry herbs.

Let's hope the V3 will have a lower resistance so it can stick to TC mode.

 

[Armerad]

Not wanting to hijack the thread, but we're having a lot of fun experimenting with convection attys in both the "BULLI" and "the Project" threads. Both are open source and working alternatives for 510 dry herbs.

Let's hope the V3 will have a lower resistance so it can stick to TC mode.

Based on what OF told me, the heating element/wire for the DC is nichrome, which is not TC compatible. Lowering the resistance won't help.

The Project and Bulli threads look interesting though, thanks.

 

[fernand]

@Armerad welcome to the dab labs! it's not a matter of flavors or physical properties in what people prefer in their DT donut units. If you explore you will find that different named strains have very different properties, due to different ratios of cannabinoids, terpenes and flavonoids, and that in addition vaping at different temperatures brings out different aspects of a strain due to different boiling points. For an oversimplified summary, so-called Indica types are more sedating and body-oriented, Sativas are more stimulating and cerebral. Low temp emphasizes the Sativa side, High temp the Indica side. Leafly.com is a good place to start reading.

The DC is a different animal, but the 2.5 and 2.7 work in TC mode using a TCR setting of 220-245 and 12 watts. With the latest firmware the Evic etc will stay in TC mode up to 1.5 ohms.

 

[OF]

Based on what OF told me, the heating element/wire for the DC is nichrome, which is not TC compatible.

No, that's not what I posted. I said 'Matt told us all the products use Nichrome heaters' and I also said 'there are many different alloys of Nichrome'. That's important too, I think.

Putting those two together it would seem we have Nichrome doughnuts in the DT attys which do in fact work well with TC mods? Taking Matt at his word, of course that they are Nichrome.

There are many common Nichrome alloys, some with TCRs similar to 304SS and other metals we know function. Until further information is available I see no reason to doubt Matt's information nor to assume that they all use the same alloy? I'm not even sure all the alloys have linear TCRs over the range we need, nor that they are positive over the entire range, it makes sense to me that some alloys would not work well, at least some would work better than others.

http://cecs.wright.edu/balloon/images/2/22/Nichrome_Wire_Heating_Element_Design_Basics.pdf

What we do know is TC works for one product line (DT) and not the other (DC).

OF

 

[Vape Donkey 650]

From what I've read, the legs of the heating element are nickel - does this mean the area that heats the ceramic housing is nickel aswell? I'd like to know what metal (SS, kanthal, titanium, nichrome) it is if not, to set the custom TCR information on my DNA200.

Nichrome, assuming it is Ni80, will not do temperature control (TC). Trying to do it in TC mode should definitely try to push it to VW mode. That's too bad, I was hoping the DC would be capable of delivering a dry herb 510 TC solution.

Based on what OF told me, the heating element/wire for the DC is nichrome, which is not TC compatible. Lowering the resistance won't help.

The Project and Bulli threads look interesting though, thanks.

No, that's not what I posted. I said 'Matt told us all the products use Nichrome heaters' and I also said 'there are many different alloys of Nichrome'. That's important too, I think.

Putting those two together it would seem we have Nichrome doughnuts in the DT attys which do in fact work well with TC mods? Taking Matt at his word, of course that they are Nichrome.

I always thought the wire was plain nickle (Ni200) and then later heard nichrome, and back and forth probably a few times, both from Matt and other people on these forums and other websites. I don't really know what to believe now until someone takes one of the wires out and melts it down in a lab to analyze its exact contents.

At this point I don't think I really care anymore, as long as the material works well for our application, is rugged and reliable, works with TC / TCR, and doesn't off-gas any harmful substances even far from its intended temperatures. From reading this thread way back and believing who I want to, and my own experience, I think this nickle/nichrome coil wire is meeting all those requirements. (at least for the donut, not TC for the DC)

Of all the popular heater wire materials people are using in vapes these days, kanthal seems to be the one that is most impossible to function in any temp control mode.

There are many common Nichrome alloys, some with TCRs similar to 304SS and other metals we know function. Until further information is available I see no reason to doubt Matt's information nor to assume that they all use the same alloy? I'm not even sure all the alloys have linear TCRs over the range we need, nor that they are positive over the entire range, it makes sense to me that some alloys would not work well, at least some would work better than others.

I have come to suspect that as well, OF, even though I may not be able to work out the math behind it myself. Due to the unique / varying composition of our donut wires with TC, I think we could be seeing accurate or useful temps on our devices only at certain narrow temperature ranges, even if we try to dial in the TCR ever closer.

Like, we can set our mods to have reasonably accurate display temps around the 380-420F range with a certain TCR figure, but if we min/max out the temp to 200 or 600 F with those same settings, then we will not see actual donut temps anywhere near those extremes of our temp control limits. Non-linear TCR curves could explain this?

It sure feels that when put my mod to 200F on TCR mode to pre-melt a fresh re-load, and pulse the button a few times, it melts crumbles not that much, as if it had really seen a few flashes of 200F with a light sprinkling of waxy pebbles. On the other end, when I pump up the temps to 500-600F, to help blow/melt out the old crusty reclaim oil and clean the donut white again, I'm not getting as much of a temp increase as it says. Then I will have to go to to TC-Ni @500-600F to finish cleaning, or just go to fixed 11-12w.

It doesn't really matter to me, though, if its only more accurate within the 300-400F range I actually want to use it. It matters more that 10* +/- changes in temp seem meaningful and useful. Seems like each 10F increase equals about 0.01 ohm increase in that range, but probably not as precisely outside that temp range.

 

[Vape Donkey 650]

Sigh... my posts... so long they are.

EDIT: What type of concentrate does everyone prefer in their DT ceramic donuts? I picked up a half gram of "Blue Dream/OG - Hybrid - Pineapple" in crumble form from my dispensary. I'm not exactly sure where the pineapple comes into play, as there was another option which was "Blue Dream/OG - Orange"- but I love pineapple so this should treat me nicely.

@Armerad welcome to the dab labs! it's not a matter of flavors or physical properties in what people prefer in their DT donut units. If you explore you will find that different named strains have very different properties, due to different ratios of cannabinoids, terpenes and flavonoids, and that in addition vaping at different temperatures brings out different aspects of a strain due to different boiling points. For an oversimplified summary, so-called Indica types are more sedating and body-oriented, Sativas are more stimulating and cerebral. Low temp emphasizes the Sativa side, High temp the Indica side. Leafly.com is a good place to start reading.

The DC is a different animal, but the 2.5 and 2.7 work in TC mode using a TCR setting of 220-245 and 12 watts. With the latest firmware the Evic etc will stay in TC mode up to 1.5 ohms.

Hey Armerad, welcome to the donut lab over here. Kushy kreme keramic donuts. As far as what kind of strains I like to vape on the donut, I can go on and on about that, and that would pretty much mirror what kind of strains I like to vape flowers, and fernand already gave a good intro on the uses of different strains.

The different uses and time of the day you would want to use is different, and varies between different people. That's why I have a gluttonously excessive horde of 12 different TC mods each with a different indica/sativa/hybrid/CBD dominant strain on their dedicated donut, so that all I have to do when I desire a particular type, is pick it up and press the button. I don't have to change any atomizers and lock in a new resistance to switch strains, or mix the remnants of my lamb's bread shatter from earlier in the day with a fresh load of lemon OG kush crumble, or force myself to finish vaping the earlier load and clean it to avoid mixing the divergent effects of those 2 strains and flavors.

You can call it vape OCD. Several of my friends do (and they have pitifully slovenly habits on their vapes in contrast) It also helps me to justify all this, that all these TC mods and ceramic donuts are so inexpensive too, especially compared to lots of the competitors.

However, I think it would be equally appropriate to say what forms of concentrate I like to vape, since each can call for slightly different methods to use best on the DT 2.5

Shatter, (pull n' snap, amber hash, etc) I think is the best form to use with the donut, and probably the most popular with most users, due to the availability and potency. It can be a bit more difficult to load up the donut properly with shatter, especially in a deep bowl, but worth it when you get a perfect load. Pre melt helps, but not necessary.

Crumbles (honeycombs, sugar wax, etc) works very well also, and tend to be easier to load on your donut due to the usually less sticky and more pliable texture of the concentrate. Sometimes you can even load up a shallow bowl using just your fingers and no tools, but I wouldn't recommend it. Depending on how sticky your stuff is, it helps alot to pre-melt your crumble on a fresh load. Put your TC mode to 200F (or maybe 5-6w on VW) and press the button for only 1-2 second, 1-3x, until you see your crumble become a semi-molten pool. You can just watch, with the cap off, or puff super lightly on the mouthpiece to inhale those few terps you just released.

Then... dial the temp back up to your liking, and when you start your hit, pull lightly for at least 2-3 seconds to give the oil more time to melt evenly before you puff normal/harder. If you puff hard right away, you'll likely send unmelted or splattered bits onto your mouthpiece or glass connector, which is just wasted, unless you scrape this and re-vape it.

Finally, CO2 oils! These are not as popular, or massively produced and distributed as the previous 2, but they also CAN work great on the DT donut, and usually makes vape that is much smoother and tastier than the other 2, but there are some drawbacks too.

First off, you must use the type of co2 oil that is more sappy and thick, rather than thinner, runnier, less viscous co2 oils. And definately not diluted with glycerin or anything, but just pure. If you use the runny co2 oil, it will probably end up leaking through the atomizer and be wasted unless you take tiny loads and vape them in complete entirety between loads. And you probably won't be able to do this due to how much oil can be hidden underneath the donut in the cup, and how runny the oil can be when heated. Cold-clears are a must. However, with the thicker, sappy oils, this is not a problem at all, and you can even "pre-load" your donut with a dab of co2 oil for future use. Thin oil, forget about it, it will be in your 510 threads within hours.

For applying co2 oil onto donuts, you only want to buy it if it comes in a syringe. If you buy it in a standard little concentrate jar, you will struggle to scrape it on your tool then on your donut and waste alot. I apply a small BB-sized dab directly from syringe tip to toothpick tool, and toothpick straight to donut.

On a fresh co2 bowl, like on the crumbles, draw softly at first to let your oil heat before you pull harder. Co2 oil appears to be thinner and easier to splash during puffs compared to the others.

And I have vaped simpson oil (thc and cbd rich) on donuts as well, but I WOULD NOT recommend it. It's just not dabbing-grade stuff. It tastes pretty foul, by comparison, always leaves dark ashy/gunky crusts immediatley, no matter how small you load or how low your vape temps, and it will foul up your atty real quick and start leaking unless you clean it. If you insist on vaping this stuff, I'd use a different vape system, or just EAT IT, as intended?

And besides those, we also have rosins, live resins, solventless / clear concentrates that are over 90%+ thc/cbd, crystallines, and probably others I haven't heard of! I haven't vaped those but would like to hear any notes from those of you who have.

Wow, the aesthetic side of @Vape Donkey 650 is appreciated too. Seems like the mood lifting, creativity enhancing and all the good thoughts are rising here, matt's done a good thing to the mind with these donut atomizers.

Can you imagine this, there are Chinese glassblowers who have discovered this nest of stoners, and rather than make cocktail glasses for people in Oklahoma, they're actually making these odd custom contraptions for the decadent "American Addicts".

And what is the world coming to? @OF admitted using Algebra today !?

Thanks, and I think plenty of credit is due to Matt for working ever-closer to vape perfection with these little ceramic heating thingies. I'm only 3-4 years into concentrate vaping, maybe 3 years with his ceramic donuts. The crap we were using before that turned me so quickly on and then off dabbing that I probably would have stopped and returned to "just flowers" if not for the donuts. Temp control mods stormed the scene at just the right time, a little over a year ago now, and with the combo of the 2, I don't think there's any other portable concentrate vape that can so reliably NOT combust my oil, make so much vapor out of of it so quickly and also taste so good, with such reliability and convenience. If there are other products like this, please lmk!

And China....yes...they just enable it all!!!!

The reason I use 220 is because it got me closer on the dry thermocouple-measured temperature. But I'll revisit the algebra too.

The harshness IMHO was the crystalline CBD itself. Will revisit to confirm, but if the boiling temp is around 350 deg F, hitting the throat with that vapor without the benefit of water cooling (putting up with losses) or just a longer tubing run (with less losses?) can't help but irritate those cells. Plain old steam, coming off boiling at 212 deg F , carries a lot of thermal energy and can burn far worse than the same amount of boiling water, right? So those oils boiling off a donut can surely do some damage. Which is why the topic du jour has drifted into water tools, right?

I did wanna get back to this. Regarding the linear or non-linear nature of our TCR curves, and accuracy of our figures. Your settings should be fine to vape CBD if your actual temps are close to what your mod says. I never set my temp that low, however, and I use TCR 245. Maybe you just like the lighter vape sometimes.

But, as OF said, we are really setting target resistances with TC: I like my base resistance to rise around 0.3-0.35 ohm above room temp. You can achieve this "sweet spot" with different settings in TCR/Temps, it doesn't have to be 245.

Since you have the Evic VTC, you can tell me, how much ohms your resistance is rising over cold with your settings?