Divine Tribe atty's

fernand

Well-Known Member
Joyetech is amazing. It's a little like getting a cigarette lighter that gets firmware updates and can be reprogrammed to turn it into a one-shot flamethrower.

On that Silicone tubing, don't wanna rain on the parade, but did you notice the little demento on the HPS web page, namely:

Remark: Silicone hose is NOT compatible with fuel or oil.

Of course we're not talking brain fuel, but if it's incompatible with any oils, doesn't that refer to all that hydrophobic shit we love, and what's gonna happen? Is said oil going to slowly eat away at the 3 mm walls and carry fractional polymers and catalyst leftovers into our Lungies?

Oooh ... @Vape Donkey 650 am I seeing some Home Depot vinyl tubing being re-habilitated? :love:


=======================
US Plastics wants to know the chemicals/oils we plan to pass through this silicone tubing. "Having this list will allow me to compare material compatibility for you to ensure that this tubing is the right choice for your application". I'm momentarily outta lies at this time. Ideas anyone?

Haven't heard from HPS yet.
 
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Vape Donkey 650

All vape, no smoke please.
if u do decide to use a cap the 2.7 cap will not work, it's too big. Using the 2.5 cap and atmos jewel mouthpiece was the best I can come up with. It basically only has 1 extra part, atmos jewel mouthpiece, and is very secure. But please share if you find a better way. I'm actually not too concerned about seeing the donut while fired when using straight bubblers. I wouldn't be able to see it anyway unless i tilt the entire unit pretty good while hitting. Also if that's important to u, you can always use the 2.5 Glass cap as u mentioned, but I see your point, and ideal connection would be straight from base to bubbler

I like going cap-free on glass connections more so I can see the vape billow out directly from the base, like a visual flow-meter, or sight-glass, rather than for wanting to see the donut itself, but it's not that important.

I got the atmos mouthpieces quicker than the dhgate order, not surprised about that. I can simulate the connection with Matt's 14mm glass connector. Let's pretend this elbow is the pinnacle water tool instead, do you think I should be shoving the silicon cap farther down the mouthpiece to make everything real snug? I didn't feel good squeezing the pyrex cap any further. If it needs to be pulled down further, I'll use the ceramic 2.5 cap, I think that one is stronger.

IeFpp38.jpg


And last, but not least, if you are into hacking (in the best sense) your firmware, you GOTTA check out the NFirmwareEditor. (Click here). NFirmwareEditor is a firmware resource editor for vape devices such as: Evic VTC Mini, Cuboid, RX200, PresaTC75W and so on... This is a direct link to the download page. You can edit all the text and graphics AND there are numerous patch files available to add/change a bunch of the functionality. (Note that the functionality patch files for the eVic VTC-Mini are only current to firmware 3.01, so if you want to implement them you'll need to stick with 3.01 and "give up" the flappy birds game...)

Don't hurt yourself.

:science: :tup:

Hey, wood :D I had seen the v3.02 upgrade on 4/20 and I flashed all my joyetechs when I saw it, but I hadn't seen the 3.0.3! Flappy Burdz!!! I've been missing out! :lol:

Thanks for posting that up for anyone else that might have missed it. The firmware editor seems interesting as well. I haven't downloaded and looked at it yet, but I probably will get around to it. I don't think there's anything I want to "hack" or improve on my joyetech mods, but I see this software supports the eleaf pico now, and I think that mod could use some hacking.

Pretty much everything on the display. The pico's screen (or most eleafs) is nearly useless, small, sideways, and doesn't emphasize the most important info. What I would love to do to hack the pico is to make it display coil resistance dynamically while the button is pressed. (like the evic's and cuboids do)

It has been stated before here, that you know your atomizer is dialed in for peak performance when it's resistance is raised by about 0.3-0.35 ohm over it's base resistance when cold. And few mod's besides joyetech (that I know of?) let you see this? I wonder if I could hack the pico to do that. I would also hack it to make the watts/ohm numbers larger on the display than the temperature, since the watts/ohm numbers you see are much more accurate, and the temp is only derivative from the others. Wonder if I can do this...:sherlock:

Thinking a bit more on this, while stir sticks are a good 'proof of concept experiment' I think they are not 'a tidy solution'?

How about a clip on metal sleeve? Say a piece of metal tube as long as the Silicone tube it's supporting with a strip removed so it covers say 225 degrees? Enough to support but still 'clip' on and off. You could bevel/radius one (or both) edges to make it easier to get on and off (or allow more degrees of support).

You could use Brass.....which polishes up real nice. Or SS or Aluminum......

Or not.

OF

That sounds like a good idea too. I was only skimming over what you guys were talking about, but what if you just get a harder, a little larger vinyl tubing, cut a line down the middle, and just wrap it over your silicone tube. Or maybe, if possible, find a larger vinyl tube that you can pull the silicone tube through, so you don't have to cut it and it will be more clean overall. Just a thought. Not sure if it will work. Goodluck

I think many of these ideas can work...easy "clip on / clip off" is a must, that's how my current PVC hose works. Sleeving a thin silicon hose with a metal mesh may work, or wrapping with another hose that's more firm. I still feel like there is a perfect hose already out there, that just needs to be found, that will work with no need to modify, just cut a section, and it can even be clear!

US Plastics hasn't gotten back to my email yet, if they don't within the next day or two, I will call them (on the phone)


We're getting closer.....

On that Silicone tubing, don't wanna rain on the parade, but did you notice the little demento on the HPS web page, namely:

Remark: Silicone hose is NOT compatible with fuel or oil.

Of course we're not talking brain fuel, but if it's incompatible with any oils, doesn't that refer to all that hydrophobic shit we love, and what's gonna happen? Is said oil going to slowly eat away at the 3 mm walls and carry fractional polymers and catalyst leftovers into our Lungies?

No, that's referring to petroleum products.

I think earthy is right, that the hose is not suitable for liquid flow of fuel or oil, but ok for liquid water flow. Says it's a good tube for intercooler and radiator use, so it's good for hot fuel vapor, but not oil or fuel flowing as a hot liquid. It's rated to 350F, but for automotive use, do we know it's not leeching or off-gassing stuff for our intended use?

@fernand, do you know more about this issue than I do, regarding my lowly PVC hose, or also these other potential hose candidates? :huh: Sarcasm is difficult to discern on the inter webs.

Oooh ... @Vape Donkey 650 am I seeing some Home Depot vinyl tubing being re-habilitated? :love:

Yes you are!

US Plastics wants to know the chemicals/oils we plan to pass through this silicone tubing. "Having this list will allow me to compare material compatibility for you to ensure that this tubing is the right choice for your application". I'm momentarily outta lies at this time. Ideas anyone?

Haven't heard from HPS yet.


So you contacted US plastics? They haven't responded to my email, maybe you called em up?

Whenever I research new box-mod vaporizers or other ancillary materials, and the people I'm dealing with ask me about what I'm using their product for, this dilemma always arises. 90% of the time, you are talking to some conformist who wants to obey all f3deral laws 100% and if you tell them what you really are doing, you will either turn them away from you, and make them feel awkward or uncomfortable at best, or they will become openly hostile, unhelpful, or frightened at worst, and they will not want to help you! :tinfoil:

So I'm familiar with your situation of being all outta lies this time! :lol: But let's just outmaneuver them with jargon and technicalities!

So next time they ask "what will you be vaporizing on this hose, mr. fernand?"

"Organic aromatic hydrocarbons" (terpenes)

"What kind? Anything else?

"Uh, yea... limonene...and, lavender oil!"

/end_skit

When in doubt, always say lavender oil. :D I think it actually vapes at a similar temp as thc?

That's my alibi when I get to talk to them. :cool:

If there is a difference, I don't know if "lavender oil" can be mildly acidic the way thc is. Actually, the hot acidic vapor interacting with PVC may be the mechanism in which I could be getting off-gassed, possibly, even if my hose may not be heated to near/above it's rated temp? OF? :hmm:

I still think we could be collectively over-thinking this, but I still want more answers and a better hose! :goon:
 
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Vape Donkey 650,
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Vape Donkey 650

All vape, no smoke please.
Long posts.... double posts... I don't want to shut-out the other topics we got going here. Surely there's still more on that coming, but can I pivot our topic to another tangent and talk battery charging and maintenence for a few posts?

What is the best method for charging the batteries on removable-cell mods that allow you to charge through the micro-usb port?

Is is qualitatively better to remove the cells and charge them on an external battery charger? If I remove and charge, will my cells be able to go through a greater number of discharge/charge cycles before they start to go weak? Does an external charger stuff more "charge" or "mah" into my cells than the micro-usb, or is this all the same?

I think earlier, OF mentioned that batteries charge quicker through an external charger, but is this the only difference? I'm a patient guy, got plenty other mods to use, and usually charge overnight anways.

And for charging either removable or internal cell mods, when is the best time to charge up? Should you wait till the battery is nearly or fully discharged before you re-up? Or does it make no difference to the long-term battery health if you normally refill your charge from 50 or 75% charge?

I ask this, because I usually wait till my battery bar is around ~50% before I recharge, because it will take me a pretty long time to get down that low (weeks) and it would probably take weeks more to vape the battery empty.

Some time ago, I heard/read that it is not good for battery management to let a cell sit around installed in the device, idle or intermittently used for a long time with a low or partial charge. If you let it sit long, when it finally does re-charge, it won't be able to hold as much charge as it originally could. (so that's why i refill at 50%)

Is any of this true, or just urban legends of batteries? :mental:
 
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OF

Well-Known Member
I think earlier, OF mentioned that batteries charge quicker through an external charger, but is this the only difference? I'm a patient guy, got plenty other mods to use, and usually charge overnight anways.

Some time ago, I heard/read that it is not good for battery management to let a cell sit around installed in the device, idle or intermittently used for a long time with a low or partial charge. If you let it sit long, when it finally does re-charge, it won't be able to hold as much charge as it originally could. (so that's why i refill at 50%)

Is any of this true, or just urban legends of batteries? :mental:

Sure. Like all good legends there's enough truth/fact to keep it alive?

First off, let's clear the air, I'm guilty of the 'faster charged outside' rumor but I'm only quoting the mod manual nobody reads. I have a couple external chargers that are faster, and some slower. With the Cuboid, TC100W and other 'dual cell' mods it's faster outside almost always since the mod has to split the available power in half to charge both, unlike most chargers.

Everything, it seems, effects battery life. Charging included. However the big danger is not at the 'bottom end' (the mod protects it by cutting off) but rather the top. Makers love to push it because it gives longer run times and more replacement battery sales. They like sales. They are highly focused or obsessed (depending on your perspective) getting your money.

But, in your case, not to worry. If it takes you a week or two it's going to take you many years to get to the 300 cycles you can count on as a minimum here. Six years? 12 if you run it to the bottom each time?

Lots of excellent reading on the topic here:
http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/how_to_prolong_lithium_based_batteries

IMO pretty 'readable' for nerdy stuff. Notice the stuff around table 4? It says that simply stopping the charge 10% early ('not quite full') can DOUBLE the useful life? That's a huge gain compared to tying to push it by 'recharging early'.

It also shows how storage temperature and time are big factors. Such cells will die on their own (no real use) simply by storage in hot places. This is why they always ship to you at about 60% charge (or should), otherwise folks would get 'bad' batteries in new gear.

My advice is to go ahead and run them down (unless you just like charging....) and when you can cut the charge off early. But don't sweat it. Enjoy instead?

BTW I feel strongly enough about this idea I developed my 'Gadget' to automatically cut charge early. It works on lots of vapes and similar gear. The latest version looks like this:
vMEGl5W.jpg


The charger plug in upper left, the load (unit) connects to the screws next to it. When you push the button lower right the processor starts charging, monitoring the current. When it drops to the level selected by the adjustment screw above the switch it drop out and beeps you to let you know. BTW, it also cuts about half an hour off every charge since the 'last part' is at a much reduced rate. That last 10% is part of every 'complete recharge', you normally pay that time penalty every time. One hour recharge? It could have been 35 minutes instead......

Worst thing you can do is to completely recharge and put it away.

If you really care......

OF
 

Steven

Well-Known Member
do you think I should be shoving the silicon cap farther down the mouthpiece to make everything real snug?
I personally shove the atmos jewel mp further down. Almost to the base of the tip where it begins to taper out

@Vape Donkey 650 For your viewing needs, you can always look at how your hoses or bubblers are milking as a flow meter. I also exclusively charge my batteries externally. I have been using the exact same 3 Sony batteries since maybe around 3 years ago. I too follow some of the urban legends. I charge my batteries when there's about 10-20% left. I know my charger says it cuts off charging when it's full, but I still avoid leaving the batteries in the charger once they are fully charged. For this reason I never charge them overnight, but rather when I get home and then I just remove them when they are full, usually by bedtime. I noticed that my phone batterry had a huge drop in battery life when I charged it overnight, so I avoid ths on batteries altogether.
 
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fernand

Well-Known Member
@Vape Donkey 650 Good suggestions, and I was back in social form today, lying like a pro, describing the fictional aromatherapy apparatus, temperatures and all, so we'll see what they say.


HEY, anybody try vaping pure crystalline Cannabidiol using the donut? It boils around 360 deg F, just a bit higher than THC. I can see heating it directly OR dissolving some in a minute amount of e.g. EJ-Mix. Anyone trying this?
 
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fernand

Well-Known Member
OK, here is the response from USPlastics. It lands on the side of common sense. I think it also has a bearing on tubing made from other materials. Tech support said:

As long as the oil is passing through the silicone as a vapor than silicone tubing will be fine. I just wanted to make sure that the oil was not passing through the tubing in it's liquid state. If that was case than I would need to do a complete chemical resistance check to make sure that the tube would be able to withstand all of the materials passing through it. Intermittent droplets have a minimal effect on the chemical structure of a material, versus being exposed to a 100% liquid solution full time.

Materials that might fall apart if immersed in hydrocarbons stand up to smog just fine. By the same token people nowadays tend to look at toxicity as a yes/no issue, whereas in chemistry and toxicology both, it's really all in the concentration and the length of exposure. The silicone's exposure to aerosol droplets is brief, and similarly we aren't breathing through these tubes more than a few seconds at a time. But IMHO it's probably wise not to pursue reclaiming with a vengeance, like re-cycling all the condensed oils from the inner walls of any plastic or rubber structures.
 

OF

Well-Known Member
OK, here is the response from USPlastics. It lands on the side of common sense. I think it also has a bearing on tubing made from other materials. Tech support said:

By the same token people nowadays tend to look at toxicity as a yes/no issue, whereas in chemistry and toxicology both, it's really all in the concentration and the length of exposure.

Yes, that makes sense from a material properties POV. But not from a safety POV necessarily? Nor for THC laden vapor as opposed to machine oils. Lots of variables, and often toxic issues are not considered to the degree we'd like. It's not an issue that often comes up in auto cooling lines?

And how much, exactly, is 'safe enough'? Some/many have a zero tolerance policy.

Good show if we can simply avoid the whole thing I think?

Thanks for the update.

OF
 

Vape Donkey 650

All vape, no smoke please.
HEY, anybody try vaping pure crystalline Cannabidiol using the donut? It boils around 360 deg F, just a bit higher than THC. I can see heating it directly OR dissolving some in a minute amount of e.g. EJ-Mix. Anyone trying this?[/USER]

YES! Well, really, NO! But, yes!... kind of? :huh:

I have been dabbing a high CBD co2 oil for a long time, made from the "cannatonic" strain. It is about 65/15 cbd/thc, and I use it not very frequently, so it's taken a long time for me to finish this gram, but it's getting close down. And this kind of high-quality CBD concentrates can be very hard to source, even where I live. I'm still looking to find another cbd-rich co2 oil like this to resupply myself that is of the non-runny kind, not diluted with glycerin, and sold in a plastic syringe, which are all key to dabbing co2 oil on the DT 2.5.

More recently, I picked up a couple grams of a "pull & snap" shatter made from the Ac/dc strain and this one is 75/10% cbd/thc! And this is one really lovely with a dark amber hue and a gooey-yet shattery texture at room temperature.

So maybe this is not "pure" but the shatter is fairly crystalline. I have never seen nor heard of a dab-able, oily or solid CBD product that is completely free of terpenes and thc and is close to pure CBD. Maybe you can use some of these "solvent-less" extract methods that result in the "clear" type concentrates with a CBD-rich flower and get a product that is over 90% CBD, but it would probably still have some thc leftover in the product. Further refining it to remove the thc probably would be counter-productive and lower the product's integrity...Too me this is not a factor since thc and cbd can work very syngergistcally and dont' necessarily work against each other. :shrug:

As for the effects and tastes of these, they are profound and subtle, :obut not psychotropic like thc. :D:brow:

Dabs of either of these cbd concentrates make me feel very calm, steady, and relaxed, even focused, but not sleepy or sedated. It's great for knocking out any body pain, and headaches (especially my sinus-induced headaches:doh:) I'm sure it has many other therapeutic uses and effects, for which I don't need! It's not as important to me as my thc-rich concentrates, but I think it's great to have some of this kind of stuff lying around ready to use, so I have an eleaf pico and evic VTC with dedicated donuts always loaded up with these 2 CBD's always ready to go.

As far as loading / vaping this stuff, I load just the same I would any other shatter or co2 oil, and in TCR mode, I'm already at 380-400F which vapes it just fine and in entirety. On old TC-Ni mode, I would vape at 360-370F assuming the temps were accurate, and that is probably higher than needed, but it still vaped nicely, tasty and smooth. Can probably go lower and use 330-340F on TC-Ni as welll.:tup:

Everything, it seems, effects battery life. Charging included. However the big danger is not at the 'bottom end' (the mod protects it by cutting off) but rather the top. Makers love to push it because it gives longer run times and more replacement battery sales. They like sales. They are highly focused or obsessed (depending on your perspective) getting your money.

But, in your case, not to worry. If it takes you a week or two it's going to take you many years to get to the 300 cycles you can count on as a minimum here. Six years? 12 if you run it to the bottom each time?

Lots of excellent reading on the topic here:
http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/how_to_prolong_lithium_based_batteries

IMO pretty 'readable' for nerdy stuff. Notice the stuff around table 4? It says that simply stopping the charge 10% early ('not quite full') can DOUBLE the useful life? That's a huge gain compared to tying to push it by 'recharging early'.

It also shows how storage temperature and time are big factors. Such cells will die on their own (no real use) simply by storage in hot places. This is why they always ship to you at about 60% charge (or should), otherwise folks would get 'bad' batteries in new gear.

My advice is to go ahead and run them down (unless you just like charging....) and when you can cut the charge off early. But don't sweat it. Enjoy instead?

Cool, thanks. I read through that battery web page too, and turns out, I'm not really doing it wrong! And I guess some of the stuff I thought mattered, really doesn't. :D Ha. Actually says I can get a couple hundred more cycles if i charge from 50% instead of from fully empty, so maybe I'll do that more. Batteries aren't very costly, so it doesn't matter too much, even for the internal cell mods like the mini cuboid, I'll probably break/lose or want to get a new mod before the internal cells start to degrade too much, but I do try to be nice to these little cells. :luv:

BTW I feel strongly enough about this idea I developed my 'Gadget' to automatically cut charge early. It works on lots of vapes and similar gear. The latest version looks like this:
vMEGl5W.jpg

:o Wow OF, who knows what kind of my own "1st world problems" I could solve if I had your skill sets. :D Pretty impressive. And that little website does agree with you that charging to 90% could squeeze a bit more life out of the batteries, maybe that's the one change I should try to make?


@Vape Donkey 650 Good suggestions, and I was back in social form today, lying like a pro, describing the fictional aromatherapy apparatus, temperatures and all, so we'll see what they say.

+

OK, here is the response from USPlastics. It lands on the side of common sense. I think it also has a bearing on tubing made from other materials. Tech support said:

As long as the oil is passing through the silicone as a vapor than silicone tubing will be fine. I just wanted to make sure that the oil was not passing through the tubing in it's liquid state. If that was case than I would need to do a complete chemical resistance check to make sure that the tube would be able to withstand all of the materials passing through it. Intermittent droplets have a minimal effect on the chemical structure of a material, versus being exposed to a 100% liquid solution full time.

Materials that might fall apart if immersed in hydrocarbons stand up to smog just fine. By the same token people nowadays tend to look at toxicity as a yes/no issue, whereas in chemistry and toxicology both, it's really all in the concentration and the length of exposure. The silicone's exposure to aerosol droplets is brief, and similarly we aren't breathing through these tubes more than a few seconds at a time. But IMHO it's probably wise not to pursue reclaiming with a vengeance, like re-cycling all the condensed oils from the inner walls of any plastic or rubber structures.

Cool, so you got around to talking to the good people at US Plastics. What did you tell them you were vaping on their hoses with, lavender oil? :brow:

But then did you get a recommendation from them on which hose(s) would be suitable for vaping...sigh... lavender oil?

I still want to ask them what kind of off-gassing risks are posed by using the PVC hose for this application? I hear you on the concentration/length of exposure thing, so I'm curious as to what they would speculate on the topic. :sherlock:

You're probably right on the reclaim from plastics thing too. I haven't even cleaned the upper hoses on my rig in a long time, it's not that bad even but probably has some deposits. Even if it's the safer silicon tubing intended for use as a "vaporizer whip" it may not be worth it. I'm pretty sure that's what my smaller upper hose is sourced from. But I do scrape/reclaim my glass globes and mouthpieces sometimes.

Yes, that makes sense from a material properties POV. But not from a safety POV necessarily? Nor for THC laden vapor as opposed to machine oils. Lots of variables, and often toxic issues are not considered to the degree we'd like. It's not an issue that often comes up in auto cooling lines?

And how much, exactly, is 'safe enough'? Some/many have a zero tolerance policy.

Good show if we can simply avoid the whole thing I think?

Thanks for the update.

OF

Zero tolerance is good, aspirationally, but could be very impractical to achieve in real life.

Relevant occurrences in my life that come to mind...

Past camping trips with campfires, when my idiot drunken/stoned friends have thrown large amounts of plastic garbage into the fire and we're all nearby, down-wind, breathing that horrible acrid crap. I tell em not to do that but you can't teach some people. :mad: I probably breathed in much more and worse crap from that smoke than from pvc dabbing.

When I was a kid, we had alot of plastic tupperwares, which were of more questionable composition, back then in the 80's and 90's, with BPHA, and who knows what other plastic softeners and catalysts and stuff. Sometimes we would microwave these containers till they were soft and eat out from them.... :worms:

So I'm not saying any of this stuff is good or should be repeated, obviously, but I'm just putting into context why I'm not yet too scared of my pvc hose, and still using it for now.

BUT I STILL WANTS ME A BETTER HOSE GURN DURNIT ! ! !:goon:
 
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Vape Donkey 650,
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Vape Donkey 650

All vape, no smoke please.
HEY, anybody try vaping pure crystalline Cannabidiol using the donut? It boils around 360 deg F, just a bit higher than THC. I can see heating it directly OR dissolving some in a minute amount of e.g. EJ-Mix. Anyone trying this?

Hey ferny... I didn't see at first you had made a link to the cyrstalline CBD... cool. So I still haven't dabbed that yet :D but I did use that site to find this, which is very close to 1 of the products I use, same producer too

https://www.stickyguide.com/dispensaries/medithrive/products/harle-tsu-high-cbd-co2-oil

I usually don't like to use web sites to try to locate these kind of products, since I don't want to leave behind the "big data" trail to target myself with endless ads based on my browsing :rolleyes: :freak: :tinfoil:

But being that these concentrates can be so hard to find, might be worth it! Thanks for posting that! :wave:
 
Vape Donkey 650,

OF

Well-Known Member
Cool, thanks. I read through that battery web page too, and turns out, I'm not really doing it wrong! And I guess some of the stuff I thought mattered, really doesn't. :D Ha. Actually says I can get a couple hundred more cycles if i charge from 50% instead of from fully empty, so maybe I'll do that more.

You're welcome, glad you found it useful, I sure did. I'd be a bit careful about jumping on that 'partial discharge' good news. It's rated in 'cycles' not delivered discharge power. Even if you double the number of cycles if each cycle has half the sessions in it all you've really done is mess with the charger more often than necessary? Same total sessions, just more recharges? No net gain.

For sure replaceable cell units are not as big a deal as internal ones, but by using my 'Gadget' getting this improvement in battery life is automatic and it is cutting recharge times down on every recharge no matter how minor.

FWIW I was noticing the other day my cordless phone uses a NiMH battery pack. When I installed them I dismissed them as a cheap alternative to 'cell phone' batteries (which would have much longer run times for the same volume), then I realized that at least one of the two lives in the charger...... NiMH are just fine with 100% charge 'all the time' at the low rates the stand delivers. Li-ions would not.

Regards to all and best wisher for a fine weekend.

OF
 

Steven

Well-Known Member
@Vape Donkey 650 holy smokes my hydratube already arrived. That's ridiculously fast. I ordered it on 5/8. I actually left a BBQ because I knew it arrived. I may have a problem,i know. Heavenly bliss, this thing fits all my rigging perfectly and boy are the hits smooth with the dt donut. My only complaint is that the Recycler only works when over filled with water and with a harder pull. Overall, I love it paired with the dt donut. I actually ordered the other popular hydratube on dhgate as well because it's basically the same as the one we got but without the Recycler. I even saw a reddit page wh. The Recycler hydratube is a bit bulky so this one will be for the car
26cm-tall-glass-mouthpiece-with-showhead.jpg
I also heard sunshinestore is in the works of making a honeycomb hydratube.

I finally got around to using imgur.
GZreK9s.jpg
It can be used with just 1 hand but I do prefer it to be a bit more snug but for the most part, I'm pleased with the fitting. The loosest part is actually where the cap meets the dt base. All that water adds weight. It actually works fine with less water, but I wanna utilize that recycler
 
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Steven

Well-Known Member
Whoa, @Steven , is that 1st picture out your window? Looks a lot like Moscow!
BTW, anyone needing a condo in Beautiful Downtown Moscow can call the number ...
Or is it Shanghai?


haha no the first pic is a stock photo off dhgate. These hydratubes sure are winners with the dt atty tho. im loving it. i keep finding excuses to use it. i like using it over any of my other bongs (maybe cuz they are more meant for flower). also, i found better orings so the connection is snuggly fit. the bent neck helps keep the unit naturally leveled too. overall id recommend this again and again
 

fernand

Well-Known Member
Anybody know where one of the Pinnacle Pro water tools can be purchased with Paypal?
 
fernand,

Steven

Well-Known Member
http://m.ebay.com/itm/Hydro-tube-Pi...-Water-Tool-attachment-Kit-14mm-/111762161679


http://m.dhgate.com/product/pinnacl...aporblunt/184494946.html#st-storehome-14-null

Here are 2 links. I'm not sure if dhgate accepts PayPal but I would suggest you buy from the second link. The seller has many confirmed reviews of making this clone well, and I believe there are only a few sellers worth buying from from dhgate. However, if you are cornered with PayPal, the first option is eBay, but be warned, it's a Chinese seller. Also to be honest, the dhgate link will probably ship faster than the eBay link. I got my package from dhgate within 7 days.
 
Steven,
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fernand

Well-Known Member
How do you pay DHGate?
I don't think they take Paypal.
GearBest and some others do.
I prefer Paypal over credit card as it gives layers
of isolation so your card info doesn't go out to China.

Are there problems with some of the sort of Pinnacle-alike clones?

I'm not sure in all the extensive discussion if this has been mentioned, but the 2.7 head with a slice of latex (or silicone) tubing fits right tight into a 14 mm female with no nuthin' extra.

Join_20160515_222825-1_zpsiujbkzvj.jpg
 
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fernand,
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Steven

Well-Known Member
How do you pay DHGate?
I don't think they take Paypal.
GearBest and some others do.
I prefer Paypal over credit card as it gives layers
of isolation so your card info doesn't go out to China.

Are there problems with some of the sort of Pinnacle-alike clones?

I'm not sure in all the extensive discussion if this has been mentioned, but the 2.7 head with a slice of latex (or silicone) tubing fits right tight into a 14 mm female with no nuthin' extra.

Join_20160515_222825-1_zpsiujbkzvj.jpg
I do the exact same thing to the 2.7 cap to fit it to 18mm hydratube. I posted it a few posts back on page 53. However, the 2.7 cap with this adapter will not be a good fit for the pinnacle pro water tool. I mean it will work, but it will not be a tight, snug, safe fit. The pinnacle pro water tool's female joint tapers a lot. The 2.5 cap with the atmos jewel mp is ur best choice with the pinnacle pro water tool Imo. I think the 2.7 cap is best used for 18mm joints. In 14mm joints, only the small upper portion of the 2.7 cap can fit and that won't be secure at all with a bubbler with water swinging around

Chinese clone glass pieces are always hit or miss ime, so I have learned if I go clone, I only pull the trigger on reviewed sellers. It's your gamble. Some clones have thin glass, imperfections on welds, or poorly/nonfunctional percs. For a bit of closure the pinnacle pro water tool isn't that complex so not too much can go wrong

This is what I use for adapting many different pieces. It's silicone and obviously safe for vaping. I cut bands from the upper, thicker half and stretch them over mouthpieces and such
rBVaGVSerZ-AHiMmAANyXg5HNUc768.jpg
 
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fernand

Well-Known Member
Ever get the feeling somebody up there wants us to buy mo' stuff? It's like all the electronic adapters, male XLR to female RCA etc etc. Thanks @Steven.

But what, you just give DHGate your credit card numbers?
 
fernand,
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Steven

Well-Known Member
Ever get the feeling somebody up there wants us to buy mo' stuff? It's like all the electronic adapters, male XLR to female RCA etc etc. Thanks @Steven.

But what, you just give DHGate your credit card numbers?
Yea pretty much it. Reading ur posts is kinda giving me doubts now but I have purchased from dhgate for over a year without any issues
 
Steven,

fernand

Well-Known Member
I think that problems, when they occur, are sophisticated enough not to link to the merchant. They can resell info in bulk to "distributors" who will scatter them wisely.

I don't normally use credit cards. I had a $1700 charge on a debit card, in a brick & mortar store yet, out of the blue recently. The great thing about US banking is they understand that if they stuck us with fraudulent charges we wouldn't use their stuff. In Europe the assumption is the customer is powerless, my friends in Europe are always getting screwed. So I got it refunded, but, detail, it took 2 weeks, and I had to "remind" them. This is in addition to little fraudulent charges that pop up occasionally. I have had to replace 2 cards in the last year, it's a nuisance.

So, to reduce the exposure, if they don't accept Paypal, and they're in China or Nigeria, I'm not gonna jump through hoops.

I liked the fact GearBest takes Paypal, but I don't see a lot of glass there. Any other mainland sites that use Paypal?
 
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fernand,

Vape Donkey 650

All vape, no smoke please.
I got my order the same day as you, Steven. I didn't leave any barbecues, but I've been busy enough the past couple days playing around with this stuff to not post since then, so I suspect I could be diagnosed with whatever "problem" you may have also :lol: :brow: :doh:

RH8Rx87.jpg


Just for size comparison to the old straight-water bubbler which is now promptly retired from service after this pic. The old pipe is about an inch shorter, with no cap, but its inferior performance now renders it obsolete to me.

These pinnacle water tools kick ass, it's pretty much what I was expecting, but it still seemed bigger when I had it attached to my mods, held in my hand. It hits really nice and smooth, makes it easy to grab nice big 6-8 second hits, but a full 10-second hit with a full bowl is still a bit much for me with this tool. I noticed I do have to increase my temp by about 10-20F on TCR mode over normal to get good vape. It seems you need to hit this tool with a pretty heavy and steady draw; taking little sippy-pansy hits gets you very little, and this is probably why it needs the higher temps.

It's not spill proof, you cannot lay it flat down, or water will spill from the top, but you could lay it almost flat if it's leaning against something. It gets good percolation action up to a 30-45 degree tilt, but bubbles much better held upright.

Things I like: It's easy to fill and remove the water from this piece through the top splash guard. If you have the mouthpiece in the 14mm joint installed secure and overfill the water or agitate the pipe when it is full, it seems impossible for water to go down the mouthpiece into the atomizer, but it can spill out from the top.

It seems very secure with the atmos and 2.5 mouthpieces jammed into the 14mm, and even more secure on the o-rings of the 2.5 base. I can get a little wiggle/play between the 14mm and 2.5 cap, but I can also pick it up as one whole piece by the glass, and even swing it around a bit, and it will easily hold together.

0NrLlPJ.jpg


Steven do you think I should try to jam it any further up the 14mm? It's very close to where the taper stops, but I don't want to grind glass-on-glass

What I don't like: Mostly the ability to be spilled. The top splash guard keeps your lips dry, but the little bit of water up there can't drain to the bottom and that's what spills easiest. The range of angles it can be held at and used is ok, but it would be nice if it bubbled better at 45*.

And mostly, it's size. It's hand portable, but not pocket portable, I'd say. Perfect for driving or walking around, or taking to a friends house, but not a concert? And heavy. If you have this attached to a relatively compact evic VTC, cuboid mini, or pico, it feels very top heavy, and would be a risk to fall over if you have it attached to your mod standing up, and bump the table, for example. It feels a little more at home on top of the hefty cuboid 200w, on the little eleaf pico or artery nugget mod, fuhgetaboutit

You're welcome, glad you found it useful, I sure did. I'd be a bit careful about jumping on that 'partial discharge' good news. It's rated in 'cycles' not delivered discharge power. Even if you double the number of cycles if each cycle has half the sessions in it all you've really done is mess with the charger more often than necessary? Same total sessions, just more recharges? No net gain.

Haha you have a landline? :lol: Does that mean you are an old fart?

I re-thought it, and since I'm getting 20-30% more discharge cycles when recharging from 50%, not double the amount, it does mean I'm getting less overall work or "mah" from the battery over the course of it's useable life.... so using it until it's down to 10-20% before recharging is better then, right? :sherlock: I think I get it now...


@Vape Donkey 650 holy smokes my hydratube already arrived. That's ridiculously fast. I ordered it on 5/8. I actually left a BBQ because I knew it arrived. I may have a problem,i know. Heavenly bliss, this thing fits all my rigging perfectly and boy are the hits smooth with the dt donut. My only complaint is that the Recycler only works when over filled with water and with a harder pull. Overall, I love it paired with the dt donut. I actually ordered the other popular hydratube on dhgate as well because it's basically the same as the one we got but without the Recycler. I even saw a reddit page wh. The Recycler hydratube is a bit bulky so this one will be for the car

Glad you like it. :clap: I'm loving my hydratube so far also, but this is what I've connect it to so far:

OOdTKhG.jpg


I frickin love this thing already...literally breathing new life into my old, neglected arizer vape. :D I haven't connected it to any of my mods with a DT yet, but figure I will eventually... here's a newbie question for you, @Steven, what is the purpose of the recycler on the hydratube? That's the little skinny side pipe? I like seeing how the water spills back into it when it's being used, but what does this accomplish, besides looking cool? :uhh:


26cm-tall-glass-mouthpiece-with-showhead.jpg
I also heard sunshinestore is in the works of making a honeycomb hydratube.

I finally got around to using imgur.
GZreK9s.jpg
It can be used with just 1 hand but I do prefer it to be a bit more snug but for the most part, I'm pleased with the fitting. The loosest part is actually where the cap meets the dt base. All that water adds weight. It actually works fine with less water, but I wanna utilize that recycler


oooh oooh... where's that other bubbler at? I don't see it at sunshinestore. I like your first pic there... it looks funny, like the mod/hydratube took a hit from itself, and is all couch-locked and stoned now. :lol:

Maybe you took the pic that way just to get it to balance and stand up. The thing must be very awkward to hold and I wouldn't try to get it to stand up straight on it's own, all connected. Probably want to store them separately, unconnected.


Whoa, @Steven , is that 1st picture out your window? Looks a lot like Moscow!
BTW, anyone needing a condo in Beautiful Downtown Moscow can call the number ...

20131207_155512_zpsaig6n1dp.jpg


Or is it Shanghai?

That would be a pretty ballin apartment that steven would have to take that pic, but my guess would be it's overlooking Shenzhen, since that's where 90% of our vape stuff is made.



I think that problems, when they occur, are sophisticated enough not to link to the merchant. They can resell info in bulk to "distributors" who will scatter them wisely.

I don't normally use credit cards. I had a $1700 charge on a debit card, in a brick & mortar store yet, out of the blue recently. The great thing about US banking is they understand that if they stuck us with fraudulent charges we wouldn't use their stuff. In Europe the assumption is the customer is powerless, my friends in Europe are always getting screwed. So I got it refunded, but, detail, it took 2 weeks, and I had to "remind" them. This is in addition to little fraudulent charges that pop up occasionally. I have had to replace 2 cards in the last year, it's a nuisance.

So, to reduce the exposure, if they don't accept Paypal, and they're in China or Nigeria, I'm not gonna jump through hoops.

I liked the fact GearBest takes Paypal, but I don't see a lot of glass there. Any other mainland sites that use Paypal?

That sucks man... it could be a hassle when you get fraudulent charges on the CC. But with the CC at least you can quickly ID them, challenge them and have them resolved very quickly if you have a card with a real bank or credit card company instead of those crappy pre-paid ones or a shady company. Debit, wouldn't even think about it. :disgust:
 
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