bizwaxzion
Enigmatic Cannabist
On my joytech/eleaf/wismec mods I always lock the resistance (at room temp) if using TC. "Temp" is calculated from the resistance delta so a proper starting resistance is critical.
Divine Tribe atty's
- Thread starter divinetribe
- Start date
looney2nz
Research Geek, Mad Scientist
when I mount a new atomizer, I note the ohms (typically around 0.28 for the QQ if I recall correctly), then immediately lock the resistance before I start playing with TCR or PID values.
I have submerged the entire unit (sans mouthpiece) before, and it's not uncommon to break the unit down and do Matt's burn-off procedure, but if you soak it in ISO, I keep a toothbrush for scrubbing different pieces, and if you carmelized anything on the bucket, you can break the unit down further and use fine steel wool to clean the quartz bucket like Matt shows in one of his videos.
OF
Well-Known Member
I'm not sure I agree with 'caramelized' in this case, doesn't that have to do with cooking down sugars? And dipping apples, of course.
But, if the topic is 'burnt on deposits' in the cup I suggest you try my 'boil it' technique. Put 3 or 4 drops (no more or it will boil over) of water in the cup and manually heat it to boiling. If the deposit is extensive, scratch it up a bit with a needle or safety pin (hard steel) to help the water/steam get in under the deposits. Add another drop or two if needed, maintain a 'rolling boil'. In 30 seconds or so all deposits should have 'floated free' and can be wiped out easily.
Steel won't scratch the Quartz, not to worry. Water that seeps under the edge and then boils (expanding in volume a lot) rapidly breaks stuff up without solvents or disassembly. 'No risk' of damage, unlike with full disassembly.
Give it a try, I think you'll like the alternative.
OF
tennisguru1
EXCELSIOR!
Do you have experience with ultrasonic cleaners like this one?
https://www.fasttech.com/products/7928100
My ecig friend uses this , just drop in his yukky stuff & comes out new.
Dose this kind of cleaning did great on my SS Mole coils & Sai Quarts &
Ti inserts. but would it hurt my glass if I get a big one.
My buddy has tendency to expound on the good & leave out the bad, lol
What do you think is this as easy as it looks?.
Are there drawbacks?
looney2nz
Research Geek, Mad Scientist
should work great, just make sure it works with your solvent of choice.
shouldn't hurt your glass unless there was a resonant frequency weakness
in the glass. I'd turn the heater function off or on the lowest setting.
you'll still have to do some kind of burn-off to evaporate the ISO from atomizers before using it.
OF
Well-Known Member
Yes, have owned a similar one (3 total so far) for maybe 15 years, used them 'at work' for closer to 50. They definitely have uses, but not WRT cleaning the QQ I think. Their big strength is 'cavitation', the instantaneous forming of vacuum bubbles as is seen with propellers in water. Water (or other fluid) molecules get energized enough so they form such voids causing fluid (and debris) to rush to fill them. But to do that the particles have to be small enough to move and not attached to the rest of the debris. Neither of which we have with baked on crud.
We went on a bender of using them when Thermo Vape first made Revolution/DART. Washing them out ws a problem since you couldn't disassemble the heaters and concentrates would collect there. The agitation moved the solvent in and out and you could literally watch tiny streams of contaminated solvent 'stream' out the holes. You'll find recommendations in that thread......avoid them. We later found a bunch of failures, @Sinclue being the lead here. We were breaking the coil leads off at the connections as they were vibrating in a different direction to the rest of the cartridge.
And, since the deposits are huge (from the atomic POV) and the vibration not enough to shatter off pieces, it's not going to be very effective at all?
Save your money, there are better, safer alternatives I think. I use mine for other sorts of things, not here.
As I just said, there's more than solvent to consider.
If you insist, no need to fill the sink with solvent. Put your parts in a small cup or jar with enough solvent to keep the jar from floating away into the sink (with water, or better still mild soap and water) and go for it. Vibrations transfer fine to the jar then to the work inside and solvent. No big mess (or threat of EXPLOSION with sparks from the switch). It's going to make a lot of vapor from ISO........
But I would avoid doing so on all the DT products from 'bitter experience'.
OF
tennisguru1
EXCELSIOR!
OF
Well-Known Member
Not priceless......please remember your current gratitude when you get my bill......
In a rare (rarer of late) serious moment, thanks very much for the compliment. Glad to help when I can. No need for everyone to repeat my foul ups.
I'm far from alone in that around here, as you may have noticed? Lots of good folks with useful experience and advice to share. I like that in a Forum, don't you?
Regards to all.
OF
tennisguru1
EXCELSIOR!
Most of the time too enthusiastically lol.
But I learn at a fast rate, I practice a lot
labors of love. :>)
So much to learn! As the Vape World is
developing so quickly lately.
With the "Laws" being what they have been
the Forums take on a Importance beyond imagination
Thx for sharing
I'm running Artic Fox and just noticed under temp control setup I can change the PI settings. In fact, this is where I can enable it. When everyone is sharing settings, how come no one talks about these settings? What should they be at? What do they do?
I remember people talking about it, so figure I should learn.
PI- Regulator Setup:
Use PI Regulator? Enable or disable.
Range? %
P Value =
I value =
Thanks guys, Cody
I remember people talking about it, so figure I should learn.
PI- Regulator Setup:
Use PI Regulator? Enable or disable.
Range? %
P Value =
I value =
Thanks guys, Cody
bizwaxzion
Enigmatic Cannabist
My DTv3 settings are posted somewhere on this board - but IIRC, %=0 (always active) P=900 and I=20 produced a nice smooth power curve with minimal overshoot (actually I think I tuned to slight undershoot as my donut surface varies ~10F in different quadrants).
Hey guys. It’s been a while. I’m still waiting on a ceramic piece for the newer design of the v4 crucible.
Is the market ready for a portable forced air dab vaporizer? i made this rough draft,
Is the market ready for a portable forced air dab vaporizer? i made this rough draft,
Megaton
Well-Known Member
Can't wait to see the v4 @divinetribe !
me too
Powerslave
New Member
Hello everyone..i am thinking to get the dc v2 for dry herbs, and i would like to know if there is a capsule system that works with this one..have anyone tried to put a pod inside? I was thinking that maybe the V5Nano pods fit, but i do not know the diamension of the capsule..thanks
Ps. Or maybe the fury capsules squished a little so they can fit?
Ps. Or maybe the fury capsules squished a little so they can fit?
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Monk Debate
The monks do be debatin’
Given the low low price, what are the drawbacks of the V2.7 concentrate donut atomizer vs the V3 or 3.5?
OF
Well-Known Member
Monk Debate
The monks do be debatin’
OF
Well-Known Member
Of course I have my reasons. Personal, as I said. It simply better suits my uses. Subjective stuff. Others are different, and prefer V3.
Try both and see what suits you best? They aren't that expensive, really. Both take some skill/knowledge on your part, if you've never used one, go with V2 first, get to know it, learn about TCR and such before going to the higher powered V3. I know you didn't ask for advice, but if you had, that would be mine.
OF
Monk Debate
The monks do be debatin’
Well, I appreciate the advice, but after doing more research on the device, best practices, and finding the discount links still work, I decided to go with the v3.5. I’m really looking forward to tasting my concentrates with this thing.
OF
Well-Known Member
Your call, of course. But you researched this and actually found advice that you should jump right into V3 without learning on the more tame V2? I find that very strange, and suspect not experience based.
The general advice is what I suggested I believe, in fact I can't recall any other advice from 'those who know'? And I've read this thread from end to end (from before there was a V3). IMO V3 is for experts, or at least those with considerable experience.
Good luck.
OF
Edit: After a bit of reflection, I'm still confused here. I sure don't want to be giving out bad advice. If you really found contrary advice ('Newbies should start out with V3'), I'd much appreciate your pointing to it? It seems like advising a guy who never rode motorcycles to buy a 'full dresser' ('Chopper' made from the biggest Harley available) out of the chute. V3 is a serious device, even with smaller doughnuts. Same as I would not advise guys who never used V3s to jump on a QQ buy. Kind of a 'learning to walk before running' thing?
The goal, of course, is to have choices in the marketplace be informed ones.
So, if you could kindly cite some of that research, I'll be happy to rethink my advice. Folks should get accurate/useful advice on FC.
TIA
OF
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Monk Debate
The monks do be debatin’
OF
Well-Known Member
Thanks, your call. It's just much easier to make mistakes with V3, something I think that leads to all the advice on how to handle V3? Not impossible, but I think lots of guys dismiss V2 as being obsolete or somehow inferior ('bigger is better'?), an opinion I don't share after some considerable fiddling/experience with both. It's still a very useful tool, IMO. And a good way to learn TCR as it relates to these guys (a different problem from the more traditional e-cig applications).
Thanks again for the clarification, enjoy the adventure to come.
OF
BabyFacedFinster
Anything worth doing, is worth overdoing.
I just picked up a V2.5 unit to try it. I have very little experience with mods and such devices, but for 12 bucks I couldn't resist.
I do have an old eleaf 30w istick mod. It doesn't have a temp mode, just voltage and wattage adjustment. From what I've read here and on the site I am to keep the wattage at 11w or lower. I set it to 11w and it also reads 3.3v. Hopefully I'm doing this right. I don't want to blow up my little donut. I got the deep dish model and I'm gonna drop some homemade rosin in there tonight.
I do have an old eleaf 30w istick mod. It doesn't have a temp mode, just voltage and wattage adjustment. From what I've read here and on the site I am to keep the wattage at 11w or lower. I set it to 11w and it also reads 3.3v. Hopefully I'm doing this right. I don't want to blow up my little donut. I got the deep dish model and I'm gonna drop some homemade rosin in there tonight.
OF
Well-Known Member
That should get you started just fine. I've run them that way 'in the day' with no real problems. As long as there's concentrate in it as you're hitting it. The risk is letting it get too hot (slowing down the draw for instance) and 'cooking the oil'.
TC mods, when set up right, can keep that (cooking the oil) from happening. Don't be shy about dropping the power if it starts to get away from you.
Enjoy your vape, it's a good one for sure.
OF