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Ditanium vaporizer

Pajeppy

Member
Just picked one up after work today. Just cranked it right up and let it sit for 30 minutes. Dialed it down to 12 and only using flower. Don't got any concentrate. Actually have very little experience with concentrates so I'm excited to check some stuff out.

Anyway, only had a couple hits as I type this.. Still figuring it out. 12 o'clock doesn't seem hot enough to me for flower. Once the wife goes to bed I'll get my bong out and really hit this thing.

Every picture I've seen of it I haven't had anything to compare for size. Definitely surprised at how small it is, whip and all.

Can already tell I'll need to be on the lookout for a packing tool. Just using my dynavap right now hah.
 

WildWillie

Well-Known Member
Just picked one up after work today. Just cranked it right up and let it sit for 30 minutes. Dialed it down to 12 and only using flower. Don't got any concentrate. Actually have very little experience with concentrates so I'm excited to check some stuff out.

Anyway, only had a couple hits as I type this.. Still figuring it out. 12 o'clock doesn't seem hot enough to me for flower. Once the wife goes to bed I'll get my bong out and really hit this thing.

Every picture I've seen of it I haven't had anything to compare for size. Definitely surprised at how small it is, whip and all.

Can already tell I'll need to be on the lookout for a packing tool. Just using my dynavap right now hah.
I see 12 o’clock recommended often, but I would go as high as 3 o’clock to really rip a bowl.

Recently I’ve tried putting borosilicate balls in my Ditanium head, completely replacing the quartz dish (inspired by a r/vaporents post). That gets my dial down to around 1 o’clock for thick rips.
 

Pajeppy

Member
I see 12 o’clock recommended often, but I would go as high as 3 o’clock to really rip a bowl.

Recently I’ve tried putting borosilicate balls in my Ditanium head, completely replacing the quartz dish (inspired by a r/vaporents post). That gets my dial down to around 1 o’clock for thick rips.
Yea still trying to dial this thing in. Got the temp where I think it's good (2:30)just figuring out how tight to pack it and getting the grind right. Can't seem to get a really good hit yet. Not sure I'll mess around with beads anytime soon.

Feel like I'm going to go through a lot more flower compared to what I was getting out of my dynavap. Not sure how I feel about that.
 
Pajeppy,

vapeaveli420

Well-Known Member
Merry Christmas everyone! Got my Ditanium yesterday the thing is a beast! It’s my first desktop, I’m really impressed, never tried dabbing before it was enjoyed with the limited availability of concentrates I have access too.

just wanted to say thank to for all the advice, been really helpful! I find I like vaping my flower at around 2/2:30, concentrates at 11/11:45.

Merry Christmas everyone!
 

Texus

Well-Known Member
For new folks not getting the size if hits they are looking for, check out some of the usages of DDave accessories to get the herb closer to heating element. I'll try to post pics tomorrow.

And I'd love to see pics of how beads are being used.
 
Texus,

vapeaveli420

Well-Known Member
Hey guys, so with the Ditanium I am using Rosin have it heated between 11-12 taste is awesome, but there always seems to be black residue left after a dab I always put it on full temp to burn off any left overs, but the black residue still remains in the bottom and side of the black dish? Have I done something wrong? Am I dabbing way too hot?
 
vapeaveli420,

WildWillie

Well-Known Member
For new folks not getting the size if hits they are looking for, check out some of the usages of DDave accessories to get the herb closer to heating element. I'll try to post pics tomorrow.

And I'd love to see pics of how beads are being used.
Inspired by this r/vaporents post, I removed the quartz dish and filled it will borosilicate balls. You have to be careful that they are borosilicate (or ruby, ceramic, or etc.) otherwise they can fuse to the heater. Obviously this removes the ability to dab, but I rarely have access to any.

I have a Dynavap CCD at either end of the 14mm male piece. The one at the front to prevent herb from blowing in, and one at the back to prevent balls from falling out. I also used a Ditanium glass handpiece screen over the heating element to prevent the hot balls from spilling in case of an accident.

All said and done, I can get nice dense rips at a much lower setting and finish a bowl quicker. Around noon to 1 o’clock, I can combust over that (I have a mix of 100 ceramic balls and the rest boro, using titanium handpiece btw)

Before the mod, I’d be at around 3 o’clock to get my herb dark and fully extracted. I’ve also tried balls under the quartz dish, and it hits slightly harder, but not many fit in there and you have to be careful not to crush the quartz dish when you screw in the 14mm male with balls in there.

BD15F31D-DC68-4ED2-BDDC-E80A893B40AF.jpegD6D41EDF-3AE0-4F2A-B584-7BFD7DAD06C8.jpeg
 

Texus

Well-Known Member
Inspired by this r/vaporents post, I removed the quartz dish and filled it will borosilicate balls. You have to be careful that they are borosilicate (or ruby, ceramic, or etc.) otherwise they can fuse to the heater. Obviously this removes the ability to dab, but I rarely have access to any.

I have a Dynavap CCD at either end of the 14mm male piece. The one at the front to prevent herb from blowing in, and one at the back to prevent balls from falling out. I also used a Ditanium glass handpiece screen over the heating element to prevent the hot balls from spilling in case of an accident.

All said and done, I can get nice dense rips at a much lower setting and finish a bowl quicker. Around noon to 1 o’clock, I can combust over that (I have a mix of 100 ceramic balls and the rest boro, using titanium handpiece btw)

Before the mod, I’d be at around 3 o’clock to get my herb dark and fully extracted. I’ve also tried balls under the quartz dish, and it hits slightly harder, but not many fit in there and you have to be careful not to crush the quartz dish when you screw in the 14mm male with balls in there.

View attachment 4739View attachment 4740
Awesome. Thanks for those details and pics. Just so I'm clear before buying some boroscillate balls: If I didn't overfill and put a screen on top, I would still be able to dab right?

Great Idea to use those Dynavap screens!!! I think I have some around here...
 
Texus,

WildWillie

Well-Known Member
Awesome. Thanks for those details and pics. Just so I'm clear before buying some boroscillate balls: If I didn't overfill and put a screen on top, I would still be able to dab right?

Great Idea to use those Dynavap screens!!! I think I have some around here...
You can get balls under the quartz dish, maybe less than fifty, and there is a minor improvement. You wouldn’t want to dab without the dish because then the heater is exposed and oil could leak into it, not to mention it’d just be a mess.
 
WildWillie,

TheHerbPuffer

Well-Known Member
Yea still trying to dial this thing in. Got the temp where I think it's good (2:30)just figuring out how tight to pack it and getting the grind right. Can't seem to get a really good hit yet. Not sure I'll mess around with beads anytime soon.

Feel like I'm going to go through a lot more flower compared to what I was getting out of my dynavap. Not sure how I feel about thGet Ive had my Ditanium for a year and a half and honestly dont see how people dont get huge rips right off the bat. Right when i got mine i turned it all the way up for a half hour to burn everything off and then put the dial on 1 oclock and waited another half hour then started rippin. It's one of the easiest vapes ive ever used and you dont need a mod like glass balls and whatnot. I keep mine on 24/7 but it can take about a half hour to heat all the way up once turned on. If you are a heavy user then i thinks its a much better experience than a vapcap. in my experience i use about the same amount of flower, i just have to repack the vapcap like 5-10 times to get where i want to be, rather than just chillin on one Ditanium bowl for like a half hour.
Get any better results? ive had my ditanium for a year and a half and dont see how people dont get huge rips right off the bat. put the dial on 1 or 2 oclock and wait up to a half hour to heat up and it should start rippin...make sure you stir and kinda lightly scrape the screen every couple hits so flower doesnt clog it up. in my experince i use the same amount of flower than a vapcap, i just have to repack the vapcap like 5-10 times to where i have to be rather than just chilling on one ditanium bowl for like a half hour. i find the ditanium much more enjoyable in that aspect, especially being a heavy user.

Modnote: Fixed quote tags
 
Last edited by a moderator:

Pajeppy

Member
Get any better results? ive had my ditanium for a year and a half and dont see how people dont get huge rips right off the bat. put the dial on 1 or 2 oclock and wait up to a half hour to heat up and it should start rippin...make sure you stir and kinda lightly scrape the screen every couple hits so flower doesnt clog it up. in my experince i use the same amount of flower than a vapcap, i just have to repack the vapcap like 5-10 times to where i have to be rather than just chilling on one ditanium bowl for like a half hour. i find the ditanium much more enjoyable in that aspect, especially being a heavy user.

Modnote: Fixed quote tags

Yea much better thanks. Have it dialed in pretty good now. I've learned I need to be careful when stacking the dabs and flower. Holy shit. Couldn't believe how high i got. Almost uncomfortable.

The 12/1/2/3 o clock suggestion are hugely dependant on how much herb I got in the wand I've learned. But yea, it's good now. Super happy with it and don't see myself buying another vape for a while.

Also agree on the vapcap comparison. I'll smoke about 4/5 bowls in my dynavap a night. So just load the wand up and like you said, stir every hit or two and it just keeps producing vapor.
 
hey, quick question. i've had my unit for a bit over a year so the nail is starting to get dirty. i wanted to take it apart to clean it, but i can't get the titanium head to unscrew from the ceramic. how do you do it? i looked at the instructions video on youtube but i don't have any of those fancy pliers at hand
 
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godisatomato,

WildWillie

Well-Known Member
hey, quick question. i've had my unit for a bit over a year so the nail is starting to get dirty. i wanted to take it apart to clean it, but i can't get the titanium head to unscrew from the ceramic. how do you do it? i looked at the instructions video on youtube but i don't have any of those fancy pliers at hand
I’ve never had to do it with the device on like he does in the video. With it off, I can usually hold the white base with my hand and apply a turning force on the titanium nozzle with my other hand to get it unstuck.
 
WildWillie,
I’ve never had to do it with the device on like he does in the video. With it off, I can usually hold the white base with my hand and apply a turning force on the titanium nozzle with my other hand to get it unstuck.
this has never worked for me, i can't get a firm grip (can barely fit 2 fingertips down there? what kind of alien hands do you have tbh) on the white rod and it rotates with the titanium head
 
godisatomato,

WildWillie

Well-Known Member
this has never worked for me, i can't get a firm grip (can barely fit 2 fingertips down there? what kind of alien hands do you have tbh) on the white rod and it rotates with the titanium head
The alien hands comment really got me 😂

Just a short dude with small hands I guess, and mine must not have been quite as stuck.

I’m afraid you’re gonna have to invest in some cheap pliers. You might only need one pair, just to grasp the white rod. Maybe if you have a small pair of tongs you could give that a try 🤷🏻‍♂️
 
WildWillie,

DingoGlittering

Active Member
Got my black ditanium yesterday and boy does that thing rip! DDave mod handpiece and titanium handpiece coming in the mail today. Any other suggestions of ways to mod your ditanium? I saw some mention of switching out the knob for a guitar knob with numbers on the dial, or adding a watch decal/stickers around the dial. Anyone have any luck with this and have any suggestions?

My favorite part is I can turn it down to 10:30, throw some essential oils in the carb cap, and leave it running all night on my desk in my office. When I come back in the morning it's nice and fresh and ready to get going again.
 

WildWillie

Well-Known Member
Inspired by this r/vaporents post, I removed the quartz dish and filled it will borosilicate balls. You have to be careful that they are borosilicate (or ruby, ceramic, or etc.) otherwise they can fuse to the heater. Obviously this removes the ability to dab, but I rarely have access to any.

I have a Dynavap CCD at either end of the 14mm male piece. The one at the front to prevent herb from blowing in, and one at the back to prevent balls from falling out. I also used a Ditanium glass handpiece screen over the heating element to prevent the hot balls from spilling in case of an accident.

All said and done, I can get nice dense rips at a much lower setting and finish a bowl quicker. Around noon to 1 o’clock, I can combust over that (I have a mix of 100 ceramic balls and the rest boro, using titanium handpiece btw)

Before the mod, I’d be at around 3 o’clock to get my herb dark and fully extracted. I’ve also tried balls under the quartz dish, and it hits slightly harder, but not many fit in there and you have to be careful not to crush the quartz dish when you screw in the 14mm male with balls in there.

View attachment 4739View attachment 4740
FYI: I was wrong. Do NOT use boro balls, I did end up with some fusing. I was surprised, considering the heat rod is reported to max out at 900F.

I'm pretty sure they're legitimate borosilicate as I bought them from the VapeCritic's shop when he was doing the G43.

So ruby or ceramic (silicon nitride in my case) are probably your best bet.
 
WildWillie,
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Texus

Well-Known Member
FYI: I was wrong. Do NOT use boro balls, I did end up with some fusing. I was surprised, considering the heat rod is reported to max out at 900F.

I'm pretty sure they're legitimate borosilicate as I bought them from the VapeCritic's shop when he was doing the G43.

So ruby or ceramic (silicon nitride in my case) are probably your best bet.
Please go back and edit your posts on this, in case people don't read through the entire thread.
 
Texus,
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TheHerbPuffer

Well-Known Member
Hello FC community. I havent been as active on here as id like, but i do check in on occasion. I have had my Ditanium for over a year and a half and i couldnt be happier. I honestly dont understand why you need mods and whatnot as i have been completely satisfied from the get go, but to each their own. The glass handpiece has done me well and have had no reason to get the titanium one. I dont even have the carb cap.. i have found that a broken banger works great as one lol and smaller dabs work best for me with it. I do use a rig/torch or Sai TAF 90% of the time however, but nothing hits the spot like a double stacker with the Ditanium. Whip vapes are the easiest to load as you just have to suck the flower up through the whip. However, to load less material ill put a funnel over the chamber and let some flower free fall in to the chmaber so its not as packed down as if you were to suck it up, per se. I usually have it dialed in around 1 oclock for both flower and dabs. i use to dial in for both but realized its just a hassle to wait for it to get to temp at noon for a dab then turning dial back to 2oclock for flower and having to wait again. The Ditanium and enano has become my end game setup and havent had VAS since. I use the Ditanium as my daily driver and always have it loaded, and use the enano to conserve my more "exotic" flower that may be more expensive. I would say the biggest tip i have with the Ditanium, which i have stated before on here, is to stir often and lightly "scrape" the adjustable screen with a poker/dabber after the first hit and then every few hits thereafter. Early on i would wonder why id get a massive hit then little to no vapor, and then realized the screen was just clogged.
 
Last edited:
TheHerbPuffer,
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DingoGlittering

Active Member
Has anyone succeeded in modding the ditanium with Ruby balls a la the G43? I am very tempted to do it but since the housing is so small I'm wondering if the extra heat mass is even worth the effort.
 
DingoGlittering,

beyond6strings

Just another traveller in the Cannaverse
@TheHerbPuffer Re: Clogged screen affecting performance

I cleaned my glass hand piece yesterday and I was so shocked at the improved performance. And it’s was getting the screen clean that did it.

I noticed a huge uptick in performance and flavor. I’ll be cleaning that way more often from now on.
 

WildWillie

Well-Known Member
Has anyone succeeded in modding the ditanium with Ruby balls a la the G43? I am very tempted to do it but since the housing is so small I'm wondering if the extra heat mass is even worth the effort.
Yes, with 3mm ceramic balls and no dab dish. With the dab dish, I can fit less than fifty balls and it does allow me to drop the heat slightly and get the same hit.

Without the dab dish I can fit nearly 200 balls, and I can park just above noon on the dial to get massive rips. Without any mods I was near 3 o'clock to get similar hits but it was harsh to my lungs.

See my quoted posts below for a how-to and do NOT use borosilicate balls, they can fuse to the ceramic heater.
Inspired by this r/vaporents post, I removed the quartz dish and filled it will borosilicate balls. You have to be careful that they are borosilicate (or ruby, ceramic, or etc.) otherwise they can fuse to the heater. Obviously this removes the ability to dab, but I rarely have access to any.

I have a Dynavap CCD at either end of the 14mm male piece. The one at the front to prevent herb from blowing in, and one at the back to prevent balls from falling out. I also used a Ditanium glass handpiece screen over the heating element to prevent the hot balls from spilling in case of an accident.

All said and done, I can get nice dense rips at a much lower setting and finish a bowl quicker. Around noon to 1 o’clock, I can combust over that (I have a mix of 100 ceramic balls and the rest boro, using titanium handpiece btw)

Before the mod, I’d be at around 3 o’clock to get my herb dark and fully extracted. I’ve also tried balls under the quartz dish, and it hits slightly harder, but not many fit in there and you have to be careful not to crush the quartz dish when you screw in the 14mm male with balls in there.

View attachment 4739View attachment 4740

FYI: I was wrong. Do NOT use boro balls, I did end up with some fusing. I was surprised, considering the heat rod is reported to max out at 900F.

I'm pretty sure they're legitimate borosilicate as I bought them from the VapeCritic's shop when he was doing the G43.

So ruby or ceramic (silicon nitride in my case) are probably your best bet.


Hello FC community. I havent been as active on here as id like, but i do check in on occasion. I have had my Ditanium for over a year and a half and i couldnt be happier. I honestly dont understand why you need mods and whatnot as i have been completely satisfied from the get go, but to each their own. The glass handpiece has done me well and have had no reason to get the titanium one. I dont even have the carb cap.. i have found that a broken banger works great as one lol and smaller dabs work best for me with it. I do use a rig/torch or Sai TAF 90% of the time however, but nothing hits the spot like a double stacker with the Ditanium. Whip vapes are the easiest to load as you just have to suck the flower up through the whip. However, to load less material ill put a funnel over the chamber and let some flower free fall in to the chmaber so its not as packed down as if you were to suck it up, per se. I usually have it dialed in around 1 oclock for both flower and dabs. i use to dial in for both but realized its just a hassle to wait for it to get to temp at noon for a dab then turning dial back to 2oclock for flower and having to wait again. The Ditanium and enano has become my end game setup and havent had VAS since. I use the Ditanium as my daily driver and always have it loaded, and use the enano to conserve my more "exotic" flower that may be more expensive. I would say the biggest tip i have with the Ditanium, which i have stated before on here, is to stir often and lightly "scrape" the adjustable screen with a poker/dabber after the first hit and then every few hits thereafter. Early on i would wonder why id get a massive hit then little to no vapor, and then realized the screen was just clogged.
To respond about why one would want to mod to Ditanium; I found I had to be near 3 o'clock to really get the hit I wanted and extract the bowl in a few hits. However, at that temp it is very harsh on my lungs even with a bubbler.

The mod I did above allows me to get the same hits at noon with less harshness.
 

DingoGlittering

Active Member
Yes, with 3mm ceramic balls and no dab dish. With the dab dish, I can fit less than fifty balls and it does allow me to drop the heat slightly and get the same hit.

Without the dab dish I can fit nearly 200 balls, and I can park just above noon on the dial to get massive rips. Without any mods I was near 3 o'clock to get similar hits but it was harsh to my lungs.

See my quoted posts below for a how-to and do NOT use borosilicate balls, they can fuse to the ceramic heater.






To respond about why one would want to mod to Ditanium; I found I had to be near 3 o'clock to really get the hit I wanted and extract the bowl in a few hits. However, at that temp it is very harsh on my lungs even with a bubbler.

The mod I did above allows me to get the same hits at noon with less harshness.
When you say ceramic balls, do you have a link? It seems like ruby or SiC are the best options but both are rather pricey if we're talking about getting 50-200 balls. I did read your previous post and am very interested in doing this mod myself. What size screen did you use? I have titanium and glass handpiece screens on hand. I think 3/4" and 5/8".
 
DingoGlittering,

WildWillie

Well-Known Member
When you say ceramic balls, do you have a link? It seems like ruby or SiC are the best options but both are rather pricey if we're talking about getting 50-200 balls. I did read your previous post and am very interested in doing this mod myself. What size screen did you use? I have titanium and glass handpiece screens on hand. I think 3/4" and 5/8".
I specifically used these silicon nitride (Si3N4) balls. So far as I can tell; SiC, Si3N4, and ruby are pretty similar in terms of thermal properties (conductivity and specific heat), but I'm no mechanical engineer so someone may know better. Borosilicate takes longer to heat soak and doesn't transfer away it's heat as readily.

I used the 3/4" screen from the glass handpiece over the top of the heater.
 
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