Ditanium vaporizer

How long are you heat soaking the unit before use? I never needed to go above 2 o'clock for big rips but I knew another user who always vaped a 3. Don't forget in videos they probably have ideal lighting to show off the clouds

I let it heat soak for at least 15 minutes, but I’ve let it heat soak for an hour+ between sessions. I am drawing a little slower and getting better results at noon.

I think I also just need to adjust my expectations. I usually take my herb to just about as far as it’ll go. Noon certainly isn’t getting it very dark, but maybe it’s a great place to start a fresh bowl.
 
wildwilliewanker,
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Ramahs

Fucking Combustion (mostly) Since February 2017
Where is the dial when it's turned off?

I don't think there's anything holding the dial in a specific spot, mine is off with the mark straight down, noon seems just about right for me, but each unit may be a little different?

It's like the Evo, analog and individually unique.

It's like the 7th floor vapes. Where off is at doesn't matter. You can pull the knob off and put it wherever you want it. The important thing is that you experiment and find your sweet spot. It doesn't matter where that spot is, as long as you find it and use it.
 

Bad Dog

Yeah I pissed on the rug...... so what
15 minutes is more than fine, I never had any problems going with 10. And yes you want to hit it as slow as possible for the densest hits, but with my grind at least with aggressive stirring every hit or two my load would substantially break down in size from a full OG whip to a little less than half after 6 hits and being so much farther from the heater vapour would fall off as I go, leaving me with dirty straw colour avb that I used in capsules. I probably could push my load farther but after 6 hits it would start tasting bland to bad so I stop.
 

an0maly

Well-Known Member
Hey guys. I recently got a Ditanium and have been enjoying using it so far with a MFLB Orbiter globe bubbler. Then I got a new bubbler for it - the Sneaky Pete Mega Globe. This I got primarily because the Orbiter wasn't cutting it to cool down dab hits for my tender lungs . I'm using it with a whip to draw from and connected to the Ditanium whip with the titanium handpiece.

I had no issues at first when I was doing dabs on the enail only. Then after switching to herb I having issues with herb getting into the heater and getting very roasted/borderline combustion. At first I thought it was because I was overloading the bowl and herb was just falling into the heater. Then after trying a small amount of herb (~.1-.2g) the same thing happened. This leads me to suspect the cause to be air blowing back through bubbler and handpiece. This didn't happen with my smaller Orbiter globe bubbler, but I did experience a similar blow-back issue with a Matrix sidecar clone. Any idea what is going on here?
 
an0maly,
@an0maly - totally normal! It entirely depends what glass piece you’re using. I find that the larger the draw resistance on the piece, the more blowback occurs when you stop drawing. If you just hold your packed hand piece upright and draw from your bubbler, you’ll be able to watch it launch your herb when you stop.

To prevent herb getting into the device, I was able to push a Dynavap screen into the tip of the titanium male piece that the bowl attaches to.
 
wildwilliewanker,
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Bigpoppafudge420

Well-Known Member
@an0maly Hey buddy, I have those exact same glass pieces (sneakypete globe and Sidecar clone) and I too had this issue. What was happening is the water settling back into the perc at the end of the hit would push a slight amount of air through the ditanium whip and shoot tiny bits of herb into the heater, which then combusted.

To circumvent this I got one of these https://vapenorth.ca/collections/ho...s/pass-through-adapter?variant=32514716303438

I started off with just a U joint and eventually got one of these badboys off sneakypete, solved my issue totally
 

Bad Dog

Yeah I pissed on the rug...... so what
Make sure to tamp and pack your bowl until it is slightly springy, very important especially with a full hand piece. I'd also avoid any small cigar puffs
 
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On a similar topic, how do people stop their whips and water pieces from becoming absolutely plastered in herb particulate? Is it just the nature of the beast because of stirring, or is their some trick I’m missing?
 
wildwilliewanker,

an0maly

Well-Known Member
@an0maly Hey buddy, I have those exact same glass pieces (sneakypete globe and Sidecar clone) and I too had this issue. What was happening is the water settling back into the perc at the end of the hit would push a slight amount of air through the ditanium whip and shoot tiny bits of herb into the heater, which then combusted.

To circumvent this I got one of these https://vapenorth.ca/collections/ho...s/pass-through-adapter?variant=32514716303438

I started off with just a U joint and eventually got one of these badboys off sneakypete, solved my issue totally

Thanks for the tip. Any idea if there are bubblers without this issue? I'm not that committed to the mega globe or matrix.
 
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an0maly,

Bad Dog

Yeah I pissed on the rug...... so what
My grinder helps, gives me something of a medium to light course, I have no issues with scobby snacks. If you have the new style hand piece perhaps you could double up on screens?
 
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JonServo

Active Member
On a similar topic, how do people stop their whips and water pieces from becoming absolutely plastered in herb particulate? Is it just the nature of the beast because of stirring, or is their some trick I’m missing?

I don't clean the whips much. When they get too messed up, they get tossed. As far as the glass staying clean, doubling up on the screens definitely helps, but with the Ditanium, I normally use a coarse or medium grind.

@an0maly - I'm not sure if I'm using the Di differently than you all, but I'm removing the hand piece before I'm done inhaling, each hit. There is residual heat in the hand piece and I get a bit more vapor to clear upon removal. I guess a side effect of that is never having blow back into the heater, because the hand piece is removed each time, as I'm still finishing a rip. Consider using it this way and see what happens maybe?
 

an0maly

Well-Known Member
I don't clean the whips much. When they get too messed up, they get tossed. As far as the glass staying clean, doubling up on the screens definitely helps, but with the Ditanium, I normally use a coarse or medium grind.

@an0maly - I'm not sure if I'm using the Di differently than you all, but I'm removing the hand piece before I'm done inhaling, each hit. There is residual heat in the hand piece and I get a bit more vapor to clear upon removal. I guess a side effect of that is never having blow back into the heater, because the hand piece is removed each time, as I'm still finishing a rip. Consider using it this way and see what happens maybe?
Hey thanks for the suggestion. I actually did notice that removing the hand piece like you mentioned is a good work around. Guess I am just intent on finding the perfect glass piece that solcs the issue, if that is at all possible.
 
an0maly,
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My grind is fine, I think I just stir for too long at too high a temp. I have a tendency to try to squeeze out every last drop. I end up with like a brown powder in my handpiece and tubing. I assume it’s from stirring and tamping too much.

What are people’s load, draw, stirring, and tamping processes and techniques?

Dial at 2 o’clock- I’ve been loading the glass handpiece about 0.2g, slight tamp. Through a bong, draw as much as possible, remove glass and finish draw. Do that once or twice more, stir, tamp, repeat as needed.

I’m also finding the ball mod to punch up the vapor just a bit. Anyone else tried the glass ball mod?
 
wildwilliewanker,

thc_technologist

cannabis tech enthusiast
Previously, I posted about getting the Ditanium to work with S&B capsules: On getting the S&B capsules to work with the Ditanium - update

Recently, I've been using concentrates more, so I thought I'd share my concentrate setup. The parts list (with links) is at the bottom of the post.

Full setup:


Adapter close-up:


It's really just a smaller glass adapter with a metal keck clip. The smaller glass adapter makes the overall vaporizer footprint more compact, and the keck clip adds stability to keep the adapter attached to the Ditanium (make sure to remove it before turning the unit off).

As a bonus, since the adapter is so small, it's pretty easy to scrape out with a dabber for "free" dabs. If you look at the bottom of the glass in the close-up above you'll see the "free" dabs forming.

Parts list (as of today):

If you don't count the whip (you can always use the one that comes with the Ditainum) cost is ~$20.
 

MikeRotchHertz

Well-Known Member
Does anyone have any breakdown videos or worked on these before? In repairing one that was already disassembled, and I'm having trouble getting the ceramic rod up all the way to the tip of the quartz?
 
MikeRotchHertz,

Bad Dog

Yeah I pissed on the rug...... so what
Does anyone have any breakdown videos or worked on these before? In repairing one that was already disassembled, and I'm having trouble getting the ceramic rod up all the way to the tip of the quartz?
There should be a air gap between the heater and the dish
2A2D2344-6E87-4B5E-BA78-0FE40418BFE2.jpeg
 

MikeRotchHertz

Well-Known Member
Thanks for the pic. Mine gets caught prior to that. With the ceramic rod all the way out, it has adhesive on the tip which it makes it too wide to fit through the transition from ceramic to metal.

It's hard for me to force the ceramic rod up because there's not much to grip on except for wires attached to the rod.
 
MikeRotchHertz,

Bad Dog

Yeah I pissed on the rug...... so what
sorry I can’t help with anything assembly related I’ve never had to do any work on mine. The rod should sit about 1/2-1 mm below being flush with the titanium heater head
1366B7AF-F540-421E-96CE-5C4FB9926C85.jpeg
 

MikeRotchHertz

Well-Known Member
That picture tells a lot. It just occurred to me maybe I need to thread it down through the top and then solder the wires after. Any chance you would feel comfortable unscrewing the bottom plate and showing me your layout, particularly where the metal prong holds the heating tower in place
 
MikeRotchHertz,
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