Dabpress Rosin Plates
- Thread starter dabpress.com
- Start date
Elbuort19
Well-Known Member
I just went through this. Ordered strongway pump with gauge from amazon.com and shipped it to a boarder forwarding company (shipito.com). Received package the other day and total cost to ship including duties was $49.79 USD...might be a little cheaper for you shipping to ON. I know it's not cheap but compared to other products in Canada with a gauge it was pretty good. Everything including shipping was $129.78 USD which is still cheaper than I can find a gauge for here so it was worth it to me just for the gauge.
anasrzi
Well-Known Member
So the pump must be procured separately then @psychonaut ? it's not going to be included as a recommended add-on like in the SS 10 ton press?
With the hr10t35 you can get the press and the pump all in for $699, are you not planning on doing something similar with the drip tech version?
I can get a pump in sure no problem but it would be great if i could get the everything in one go from you guys at Dabpress.
We don't plan on offering the strongway pump on our webstore due to availability aftermarket. dp-cp390 can be attached to this unit however it doesn't include a gauge, that also could be procured aftermarket however it's an expensive add-on to pair with dp-cp390.
I'll check with Roger but I assume the problem with offering the strongway pump on the webstore is it would increase the cost of the product as they would have to import it from USA then export it out of China again.
At this time we are asking rosineers who plan on purchasing dp-hr10t35v to procure your strongway 10-ton pump with gauge from Amazon US, Northern Tool & Equipment, or another reseller.
Sorry for the inconvenience, it is to keep costs down for the customer.
As to the discounted bundle to be offered with dp-hr10t35v it will be pre-press mold and filters more than likely and possibly the dab toolkit.
anasrzi
Well-Known Member
Thats fine @psychonaut thanks for the clarity and it makes sense if its going to pump the price right up. I'll look into getting a pump domestically but if i find one could i post a link to make sure it's going to be compatible?
Good stuff on the kit format tho just that pesky pump to sort out
Good stuff on the kit format tho just that pesky pump to sort out
Thats fine @psychonaut thanks for the clarity and it makes sense if its going to pump the price right up. I'll look into getting a pump domestically but if i find one could i post a link to make sure it's going to be compatible?
Good stuff on the kit format tho just that pesky pump to sort out
Please do, I don't want you purchasing something that won't pair up! What country are you in? Seems that this particular ZG 1/4" coupler is not common outside of the US, the NPT 3/8" seems to be the standard elsewhere.
Elbuort19
Well-Known Member
I like two smaller round pucks better because the rosin has less way to travel trough plant material and
i feel that is better. I also angle my press a bit to the front to give the rosin the right direction to flow so it escapes the hot plate zone asap
So then why go with the "bigger" 40mm pucks u may ask yourself, when there is a smaller round pre-press also available...that is in my case because i realised that 2,5" bags fit like a glove extremly well and utilize the 3x5" perfect when used 2 of them side by side like in my vids.
One of the "softcaps" for me was indeed is the small room on both side´s because the more u squish the more will drip,
but now with folding the parchment up on both sides that problem is also gone.
Got a link to pics of you DIY 40mm pre-press? I'd like to try it and if it works better than my current method I'll wait for the dp-pm40r to come back in-stock. No direct contact with aluminum for me...except in our air, soil, water and food!
I guess a pre-press is where I draw the line.
anasrzi
Well-Known Member
Cool will post you a few I've found already. I'm in the uk been checking out eBay only so far.
gunmetalshark
Glass Addict
@Elbuort19
Just a 40mm ID pipie and another 38mm that was welded to be close on both side...the duct tape does the last mm...hehe..it works but yeah i am soaking after that SS one
Just a 40mm ID pipie and another 38mm that was welded to be close on both side...the duct tape does the last mm...hehe..it works but yeah i am soaking after that SS one
Hello all, new here and just ordered a dp-bj6t35. Looking forward to using it in the near future on a bunch of Fire OG and Strawberry Cough from this season. I primarily use edibles and have been using Bho for making them but going to switch to rosin. Overall it seems like a more convenient method of processing and also reduced risk then blasting.
Welcome! Sounds like some good meds there, please let us know how your pressing goes =) Rosin is a great way to make edibles. I had switched over to using concentrates for my edibles after getting tired of the lengthy decarb process with flower. Rosin is great, as is distillate.
ACitizenOfCo
Member
Hey everyone. I appreciate the help and guidance you've lent!
One last question about parchment: is there a group consensus about safety and parchment?
Is silicon-free/quinlon free a desirable quality? Is unbleached good enough?
I saw a video on youtube from John Buferlo. (I think; he's part of bubbleman's network). In which he talked about rosin and residuals during testing.
Can people please lend their advice? Psychonaut, I know you've said renyolds and kirkland.
Has anyone on here posted about testing for residuals in rosin?
Thanks everyone.
One last question about parchment: is there a group consensus about safety and parchment?
Is silicon-free/quinlon free a desirable quality? Is unbleached good enough?
I saw a video on youtube from John Buferlo. (I think; he's part of bubbleman's network). In which he talked about rosin and residuals during testing.
Can people please lend their advice? Psychonaut, I know you've said renyolds and kirkland.
Has anyone on here posted about testing for residuals in rosin?
Thanks everyone.
I have been using bho for edibles/caps for a couple years now, it gives me a much more predictable dosage even without having it tested. Although sometimes I am too lazy to make something and just drop 1/3 of a gram of bho into a tablespoon of coconut oil and cook at 250 for 30m. I used to have a good local source cheap high quality butane but they switched to some crappy stuff and everything else around here makes the cost almost higher then just buying oil at the retail shop. So that really sealed it for me to switch over.
@ACitizenOfCo that is a really good question and while my own personal feeling is I don't think there is any silicone in my rosin, I would need to test my rosin to know for sure.
I wish we could submit samples for testing in Colorado. You have to have a metrc # which is for licensed commercial growers and the state government. I am not sure what labs will test for silicone, I know they are testing for residual solvents and cannabinoids as well as terpenes.
I keep saying we need some sort of GC/MS machines on a consumer level
I wish we could submit samples for testing in Colorado. You have to have a metrc # which is for licensed commercial growers and the state government. I am not sure what labs will test for silicone, I know they are testing for residual solvents and cannabinoids as well as terpenes.
I keep saying we need some sort of GC/MS machines on a consumer level
ACitizenOfCo
Member
@ACitizenOfCo that is a really good question and while my own personal feeling is I don't think there is any silicone in my rosin, I would need to test my rosin to know for sure.
I wish we could submit samples for testing in Colorado. You have to have a metrc # which is for licensed commercial growers and the state government. I am not sure what labs will test for silicone, I know they are testing for residual solvents and cannabinoids as well as terpenes.
I keep saying we need some sort of GC/MS machines on a consumer level
I'm also in Colorado and confront the same issue. I'll respond the below directly. But, given that we can't access testing, it'd be great to know the process of some commercial producers or personal growers in states that allow testing.
I almost view it as a public safety issue in Colorado. Different parchments create different test results. Is this a non-issue? Most rosin in Colorado is sold in glass; most of the flower is in either plastic bags or containers. (remember this for later). In Co, the commercial market is regulated by an approved pesticides list. Every grower commercial facility depends upon it, and every personal grower has access to it.
(I'm not sure I've seen information detailing regulations or testing about biological contaminants: waste from beneficial predatory populations.)
Kevin Jodrey has a few videos on youtube about how California's testing can cause product to fail for beneficial organisms, not sure about the specific types. People argued that the alleged contaminant was actually a beneficial of some sort. The state, according to Jodrey, was unprepared but not unwilling to consider the complicated issues. I don't know the state now.
All that aside, are you storing rosin in silicone long term? If there the potential for silicone transference occurred, would it be silicone in the parchment of what you you use to press? Or in the container you use to store?
(this may be overboard). But, I ran out of glass jars, (one of those good problems), and stored a decent amount in a zip lock bag. Should I be worried about plastic rubbing off on the tree over about a month, right? Is that flower still safe to burn and consume? As I think about it,
Is it better to press all my rosin at the same time? Should I let stuff continue to cure for longer in jars? If it is safe to process, should I press the plastic bag bud first? I just cleaned a few old jars to switch from the bag.
I have so many questions, as always. Feel free to address any, one, or none but some other thing you think. I am about to start this amazing process with a set of dabpress plates. Will update with pictures asap.
You guys deserve capes.
ACitizenOfCo
Member
I would certainly appreciate any information you can share about the industry processes for making and storing rosin. Everyone would benefit from a bit more fleshed out data.
I get that industries protect proprietary information. But, given the focus on concentrating contaminates, I am interested in knowing if there already exists a developed body of information about which type of parchment is the safest for pressing.
If things aren't that black and white, maybe what are the trade-offs for the varying types of parchment and storage devices?
Thank you for the response. I appreciate any consideration anyone can give to this.
I am like a few other people on here that do not live on Planet America, where could I get a pump at a reasonable price in Australia, is there one on DHGate or Ebay that would work?
It may be best to contact hydraulic suppliers.
I found this one. Maybe contact them and see if they have a compatible pump or couplers to attach.
https://www.specialisedforce.com.au
This is the pump you want compatability with
https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200641798_200641798
I checked around dhgate and didn't find one.
Hey bro. Sorry for abandoning you all. Things have been real tough lately as standard. Today I finally can move back into my bedroom after about 3 months. Fully decorated and durnished at last. A nice new super comfy bed too.
I have been on foam on the downstairs floor, in a pig sty of a living situation. Managing my symptoms and coping with my condition all round has been impossible down here with bathroom and more upstairs. And my structure has suffered so bad the worst back of my life for months- (not helped by those heavy autos initially). So much pain and really debilitated, hardly getting any sleep for months.
All to change now. Just sharing that to put perspective overall. I havent been capable of much with so many loose ends to tie up and projects to restore. Anything problematic has just been pushed aside until Im fit for further probing and problem solving.
This includes the whole rosin thing. I need to do some more testing when I can afford the energy, but I really don't see how it will work for me. I never even finished the 0.25 I got from my one and only press so far (which btw, at 6%, isnt too far off your here-documented Auto Ultimate press of 10% @psychonaut , and those buds were visibly much better than the leafy, stalky Ruderalis like Think Different plant I used, so I think I probably did quite a good job despite pow yield.)
I tried the rosin in the Elev8r with health stone, and also with the Herbo Ti enail setup- direct off the Ti. That worked much better than the health stone, and I did get proper dab vapor.
But every time I had the most awful sevre deep lung congestion. It was so hard to breathe for a few days, with major deoxygenation and zero pleaure in life until it wears off and clears.
I found the vapor perfectly smooth and pleasant. No coughing, harshness etc. My immune system just doesnt seem to want me to enjoy the rosin, a bit like my favorite vapes. And I can't see any way around that. I was bitterly disappointed to discover this because I had such high hopes for rosin making my life so much easier and more fun and comfortable.
It was giving me focus through unendurable difficulties so it was a major disappointment. Especially as I absolutely loved the effects of the rosin it is exactly what I need and would see me right 24/7 without this unendurable respiratory reaction.
More than usual I found it very difficult to find a new focus in life with so many dead ends and so much misery and pain. Hence my absence from this thread. I was also really looking forward to the process of pressing the rosin and using my press which I was so excited about as much as the actual consumption and medication side of things.
I also have my brand new 710 banger and coil here. It is still unopened, it arrived after I discovered I cannot tolerate rosin. However I have been meaning to give it a try just in case there is some sort of anomaly and somehow dabbing the rosin off of a Banger at a specific temperature may somehow be the answer but I'm not confident.
I have no idea why I should have such a bad reaction to the same cannabinoids I can vape in the flower without this type of problem,, just my standard flower and vapor intolerance reaction, which is heaven in comparison to the rosin.
So looking forward I see you guys talking about rosin edibles and I could certainly give this a go although I'm quite happy with the way we make our edibles from bud, sugar leaf and ABV.
And also I think at the right time I could perhaps look into dry sift because I do not see this as being a problem like the rosin is but could work for me much better than flower and in a similar way to how I was hoping to use rosin.
So there we are. The journey of high hopes and ending in disappointment but the story is still to be concluded. Possibly more to come.
Last edited:
Me neither, nothing cheap that is
https://www.dhgate.com/product/cp-7...-hand/396694166.html#s1-2-1b;searl|3184367032
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Hydraulic-hand-pump-porta-pack-machinery-350cc-2-speed/201959637676?hash=item2f05bb82ac:g:2JUAAOSw~XpZSFDP:rk:33
f:or with a gauge;
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/180Kg-C...702553?hash=item468297e1d9:g:BogAAOSwlBZbbXx7
Makes looking for a cheap pump sound trivial, I hope things brighten up.
Last edited:
Not to add to any confusion but felt I'd post this up in case this may be information to help international customers source a hydraulic pump with compatible fittings.
First, Strongway lists their connection on the hose for the pump as a ZG 1/4" fitting. The threading is not 1/4" I can assure you that based on my measurements. The "male" portion of the coupler is 1/4", but the threading is not.
Confusing!
Now, this particular pairing of coupler and quick connect manufacturered by Enerpac, sold by Grainger look to be the exact fittings, TBD.
https://www.grainger.com/product/ENERPAC-3-8-18-Steel-Hydraulic-Coupler-6BU53
The Dake pump uses the same fitting as the strongway pump, so I will be giving Dake a call this morning to see if I can get the exact name of this fitting they have on the end of the hose.
So, the confusion lies in this. Is the coupler on the strongway actually a ZG 1/4" coupler like they reference or is this actually a NTPF 3/8" threaded coupler?
A couple of points. The hydraulic pump that pairs with our 10-ton cylinders should be rated at 10-tons, the hose is rated for 10,000 PSI W.P. The hose is a 1/4" I.D. The fittings can be removed and replaced using teflon tape on the threading, and a pair of crescent wrenches to tighten it.
On my strongway pump with the prototype coupler (different from what is now included with the press) I had to remove the coupler on my strongway pump and replace it with a new coupler to pair up to the cylinder.
The new coupler doesn't require any removal of fittings, just plug and play with the strongway pump.
Here is a picture of the fitting on the end of the dake pump (same fitting as strongway). You can see where the steel coupler attaches to the brass fitting on the hose with the teflon tape. This steel coupler can be unscrewed and removed and replaced.
That being said, if the pump and hose are of sufficient size and rating, if the coupler can be removed and replaced, that is another avenue for compatibility. It would likely add an extra $30-50 dollars to the overall cost but in areas where pumps are more accessible than compatible couplers, which can be bought and shipped fairly cheaply due to the size and weight, this is a workaround solution.
To be continued.
First, Strongway lists their connection on the hose for the pump as a ZG 1/4" fitting. The threading is not 1/4" I can assure you that based on my measurements. The "male" portion of the coupler is 1/4", but the threading is not.
Confusing!
Now, this particular pairing of coupler and quick connect manufacturered by Enerpac, sold by Grainger look to be the exact fittings, TBD.
https://www.grainger.com/product/ENERPAC-3-8-18-Steel-Hydraulic-Coupler-6BU53
The Dake pump uses the same fitting as the strongway pump, so I will be giving Dake a call this morning to see if I can get the exact name of this fitting they have on the end of the hose.
So, the confusion lies in this. Is the coupler on the strongway actually a ZG 1/4" coupler like they reference or is this actually a NTPF 3/8" threaded coupler?
A couple of points. The hydraulic pump that pairs with our 10-ton cylinders should be rated at 10-tons, the hose is rated for 10,000 PSI W.P. The hose is a 1/4" I.D. The fittings can be removed and replaced using teflon tape on the threading, and a pair of crescent wrenches to tighten it.
On my strongway pump with the prototype coupler (different from what is now included with the press) I had to remove the coupler on my strongway pump and replace it with a new coupler to pair up to the cylinder.
The new coupler doesn't require any removal of fittings, just plug and play with the strongway pump.
Here is a picture of the fitting on the end of the dake pump (same fitting as strongway). You can see where the steel coupler attaches to the brass fitting on the hose with the teflon tape. This steel coupler can be unscrewed and removed and replaced.
That being said, if the pump and hose are of sufficient size and rating, if the coupler can be removed and replaced, that is another avenue for compatibility. It would likely add an extra $30-50 dollars to the overall cost but in areas where pumps are more accessible than compatible couplers, which can be bought and shipped fairly cheaply due to the size and weight, this is a workaround solution.
To be continued.
Last edited:
So I've contacted both Dake and Northern Tool & Equipment (I guess they own strongway?) regarding this coupler on the end of the hydraulic pump.
Dake had informed me (they had to research this) that the coupler is a 1/4" NPT Male connection.
Strongway had informed me (they also had to research) that the coupler is a 1/4" NPT (ZG type, he thought?) So now I dont know what this ZG meaning is, perhaps it's just flat out wrong on Strongway's website and product description. In fact strongway experts answered the question regarding the product on their webstore, that the fitting is ZG 1/4".
Doesn't give us a whole lot of certainty in the actual threading.
It was recommended to me by Northern Tool & Equipment to find out the exact threading by bringing the pump to Grainger. I may in fact do that, but there we have it. From the manufacturers and support staff at those respective companies. 1/4" NPT Male seems to be accurate, but the question that still remains is the thread to pair with the female fitting that is on the hydraulic cylinder.
To be continued.
Dake had informed me (they had to research this) that the coupler is a 1/4" NPT Male connection.
Strongway had informed me (they also had to research) that the coupler is a 1/4" NPT (ZG type, he thought?) So now I dont know what this ZG meaning is, perhaps it's just flat out wrong on Strongway's website and product description. In fact strongway experts answered the question regarding the product on their webstore, that the fitting is ZG 1/4".
Doesn't give us a whole lot of certainty in the actual threading.
It was recommended to me by Northern Tool & Equipment to find out the exact threading by bringing the pump to Grainger. I may in fact do that, but there we have it. From the manufacturers and support staff at those respective companies. 1/4" NPT Male seems to be accurate, but the question that still remains is the thread to pair with the female fitting that is on the hydraulic cylinder.
To be continued.
Hackerman
User
2. Common pipe thread mainly include the following: NPT, PT, G and so on.
a.NPT is the abbreviation of National (American) Pipe Thread, belongs to the American standard 60-degree vertebral thread, for North America, GB refer to GB / T12716-1991.
b.PT (BSPT) is the abbreviation of Pipe Thread, it is 55 degrees sealed round tube thread, belonging to the Wyeth thread family, used in Europe and Commonwealth countries, commonly used in water and gas pipe industry, taper 1:16, GB refer to GB / T7306- 2000. Domestic called ZG.
c.G is a 55 degree non-threaded sealing tube thread, it is a Wyeth thread family. Mark G for cylindrical threads. GB refer to GB / T7307-2001.
http://www.seamlesscarbonsteelpipess.com/news/the-differences-of-npt-pt-and-g-thread-7529552.html
a.NPT is the abbreviation of National (American) Pipe Thread, belongs to the American standard 60-degree vertebral thread, for North America, GB refer to GB / T12716-1991.
b.PT (BSPT) is the abbreviation of Pipe Thread, it is 55 degrees sealed round tube thread, belonging to the Wyeth thread family, used in Europe and Commonwealth countries, commonly used in water and gas pipe industry, taper 1:16, GB refer to GB / T7306- 2000. Domestic called ZG.
c.G is a 55 degree non-threaded sealing tube thread, it is a Wyeth thread family. Mark G for cylindrical threads. GB refer to GB / T7307-2001.
http://www.seamlesscarbonsteelpipess.com/news/the-differences-of-npt-pt-and-g-thread-7529552.html